Mannykiller's Street/Time Attack/Drift Build
02-09-11 | 01:22 AM
#26
Also... please god help me!!! my superpro's didn't come with instructions.. and I've got them almost all installed but where the hell do these go?
Possibly here?
ALSO!!!
son of a B****.... Just noticed one was bent.. good thing I didn't start to press them out. I think i'm just going to get some aftermarket ones.. I've heard these are a nightmare at the least..
Any help with where these go would help. I think i might have pressed in 2 bushings into the wrong holes.. Wouldn't be the first time it accidently slipped into the wrong hole..
jk jk.. But on a serious note.. HELP! Does anyone have a picture of superpros installed into the Upper rear control arms?
Possibly here?
ALSO!!!
son of a B****.... Just noticed one was bent.. good thing I didn't start to press them out. I think i'm just going to get some aftermarket ones.. I've heard these are a nightmare at the least..
Any help with where these go would help. I think i might have pressed in 2 bushings into the wrong holes.. Wouldn't be the first time it accidently slipped into the wrong hole..
jk jk.. But on a serious note.. HELP! Does anyone have a picture of superpros installed into the Upper rear control arms?
02-09-11 | 01:35 AM
#27
Full Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 216
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From: Canada
Not thinking too well right now, but I just redid all my suspension with superpro. . .you won't regret it. . .
The "Master Kit" doesn't come with ALL the bushings. . .if you want replace all of them you have to buy some OEM Mazda ones (spherical). . .not sure what the price would be down there but they were pretty expensive here. . .so well worth it though. . .
The "Master Kit" doesn't come with ALL the bushings. . .if you want replace all of them you have to buy some OEM Mazda ones (spherical). . .not sure what the price would be down there but they were pretty expensive here. . .so well worth it though. . .
02-09-11 | 01:48 AM
#28
It's been a few years since I did my bushings but that looks correct on the control arm bushings. If I could see the bushings themselves instead of the package I could be more certain. I believe those had a small lip on one side if I remember correctly.
As far as the toe links go, I replaced mine with aftermarket ones and I have the originals that are still in good shape if your interested.
Also, you might check and see what Superpro recommends, but when I replaced all of my bushings I drilled and installed grease czerks in every one so that I can hit them with a grease gun once in a while. I guess it will depend on the material the bushings are made out of as to whether or not you can put grease on them.
As far as the toe links go, I replaced mine with aftermarket ones and I have the originals that are still in good shape if your interested.
Also, you might check and see what Superpro recommends, but when I replaced all of my bushings I drilled and installed grease czerks in every one so that I can hit them with a grease gun once in a while. I guess it will depend on the material the bushings are made out of as to whether or not you can put grease on them.
02-09-11 | 08:00 AM
#30
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,136
Likes: 563
From: Florence, Alabama
while there is nothing wrong w doing all the bushings the two sets of bushings that must be upgraded on all dual purpose FDs are...
the large rubber bushing on the front of the lower link in the rear of the chassis. this rubbery bushing should have no compliance as it controls toe under acceleration and deceleration. any movement and your toe changes which is evil.
the other set of bushings that must be replaced are also large and rubbery. they are the differential bushings and reside on top of the diff.
any movement in these bushings creates axle bounce and broken spider gears in your diff. (you want to get rid of the fragile Torsen and replace it w a clutch type LSD but don't get rid of it by breaking it as it will take out the diff case). i don't know if the bushings are included but if not i suggest you contact Pettit or Rotary Performance.
stock toe links work perfectly and do not necessarily need to be replaced if they are in good shape. nice bend BTW
howard
the large rubber bushing on the front of the lower link in the rear of the chassis. this rubbery bushing should have no compliance as it controls toe under acceleration and deceleration. any movement and your toe changes which is evil.
the other set of bushings that must be replaced are also large and rubbery. they are the differential bushings and reside on top of the diff.
any movement in these bushings creates axle bounce and broken spider gears in your diff. (you want to get rid of the fragile Torsen and replace it w a clutch type LSD but don't get rid of it by breaking it as it will take out the diff case). i don't know if the bushings are included but if not i suggest you contact Pettit or Rotary Performance.
stock toe links work perfectly and do not necessarily need to be replaced if they are in good shape. nice bend BTW
howard
02-09-11 | 12:03 PM
#33
while there is nothing wrong w doing all the bushings the two sets of bushings that must be upgraded on all dual purpose FDs are...
the large rubber bushing on the front of the lower link in the rear of the chassis. this rubbery bushing should have no compliance as it controls toe under acceleration and deceleration. any movement and your toe changes which is evil.
the other set of bushings that must be replaced are also large and rubbery. they are the differential bushings and reside on top of the diff.
any movement in these bushings creates axle bounce and broken spider gears in your diff. (you want to get rid of the fragile Torsen and replace it w a clutch type LSD but don't get rid of it by breaking it as it will take out the diff case). i don't know if the bushings are included but if not i suggest you contact Pettit or Rotary Performance.
stock toe links work perfectly and do not necessarily need to be replaced if they are in good shape. nice bend BTW
howard
the large rubber bushing on the front of the lower link in the rear of the chassis. this rubbery bushing should have no compliance as it controls toe under acceleration and deceleration. any movement and your toe changes which is evil.
the other set of bushings that must be replaced are also large and rubbery. they are the differential bushings and reside on top of the diff.
any movement in these bushings creates axle bounce and broken spider gears in your diff. (you want to get rid of the fragile Torsen and replace it w a clutch type LSD but don't get rid of it by breaking it as it will take out the diff case). i don't know if the bushings are included but if not i suggest you contact Pettit or Rotary Performance.
stock toe links work perfectly and do not necessarily need to be replaced if they are in good shape. nice bend BTW
howard
Howard... then which ones go into the Lower arms in the rear?
Also..My gut tells me that these are in the wrong place... note the slight gap between the bushing lip and the arm... (rear)
Maybe they go into the lower arms?
and the cross-member bushings go into the Shock mount?
02-09-11 | 07:22 PM
#38
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,136
Likes: 563
From: Florence, Alabama
according to the link
http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/
2678k is in the rear and is the inner link for the upper control arm. there should be 4.
why are you not removing the rotor dust shields?
hc
http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/
2678k is in the rear and is the inner link for the upper control arm. there should be 4.
why are you not removing the rotor dust shields?
hc
02-10-11 | 12:21 PM
#39
according to the link
http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/
2678k is in the rear and is the inner link for the upper control arm. there should be 4.
why are you not removing the rotor dust shields?
hc
http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/
2678k is in the rear and is the inner link for the upper control arm. there should be 4.
why are you not removing the rotor dust shields?
hc
Hmmm..thanks for the link.. i'll be using that tonight.
I'm gonna remove the dust shields tonight. I think i'm going to paint them Black. Or do you think I should completely remove them all together from the unit?..is that what your saying?
02-10-11 | 01:50 PM
#40
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,136
Likes: 563
From: Florence, Alabama
yes, remove both front and rear shields. they work really great keeping the heat in the rotors which is exactly what you don't want. the front rotors are the primary brake problem on the FD. (lack of mass)
howard
howard
02-10-11 | 10:28 PM
#42
I bought them used as a kit off of a forum member. They pop up every 3-4 months randomly. I'd suggest waiting for them, or you could contact sake bomb gorage. They have a highly popular kit here on the forum.
Did a little Pillow ball action today after work. Got my steering rack clean.. and for christ's sake...it was a job and a half.
all clean and masked ready for paint
I also got really curious as to how the rubberized underspray was going to come out. I went with the 3m brand because i've never been dissappointed with any of their products in the past.. I have to say...2 coats was impressively thick..and i'm hoping this stuff will last a while. I like the way it came out
Ohhh and I got the bushings in where they belong.
Did a little Pillow ball action today after work. Got my steering rack clean.. and for christ's sake...it was a job and a half.
all clean and masked ready for paint
I also got really curious as to how the rubberized underspray was going to come out. I went with the 3m brand because i've never been dissappointed with any of their products in the past.. I have to say...2 coats was impressively thick..and i'm hoping this stuff will last a while. I like the way it came out
Ohhh and I got the bushings in where they belong.
02-11-11 | 02:37 AM
#44
wish i had room for a press, air compressor and sandblaster case.. i would love to be doing my bushings myself when i get them.
im curious as to how the extended studs will look. Also i did not know about the dust shield being complete crap. when i do my bushings ill be doing that
im curious as to how the extended studs will look. Also i did not know about the dust shield being complete crap. when i do my bushings ill be doing that
02-11-11 | 05:23 PM
#46
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 121
From: Twin Cities, MN
One of my favorite mods too.
02-11-11 | 11:11 PM
#47
hmm.. Let me think about it. i've def considered it. But I've heard it might cause problems at full lock while drifting...
in other news.. I got my Pillow ball clips in. Lost them, so I called Ray at Malloy Mazda and he overnighted the clips for me.
I also finished up my bushing install. I have all the bushings in their correct locations, so thats a plus.
I hate to leave in the midst of things.. but i'm off to Australia and New Zealand on the 15th of this month.. I think on tuesday or so..4-5 days? I'm not even close to being ready hahaha.
in other news.. I got my Pillow ball clips in. Lost them, so I called Ray at Malloy Mazda and he overnighted the clips for me.
I also finished up my bushing install. I have all the bushings in their correct locations, so thats a plus.
I hate to leave in the midst of things.. but i'm off to Australia and New Zealand on the 15th of this month.. I think on tuesday or so..4-5 days? I'm not even close to being ready hahaha.
Last edited by mannykiller; 02-11-11 at 11:15 PM.
