Looking for advice from those who know!
#26
Thanks all for the help, the car is at the shop and I was able to pull the map prior to shipping thanks to a friend. Ray seemed to be very genuine when we talked and I understand that he cannot be held responsible for someone else’s build on the motor. But with all things considered he is going to work with me and try and offset the cost as much as possible.
I don’t think this is going to be a fast rebuild but I will keep everyone posted as we progress.
I don’t think this is going to be a fast rebuild but I will keep everyone posted as we progress.
#28
TANSTAFL
iTrader: (13)
OP: Sounds like you should take what you can from the situation and move on. As far as reliability, when you make that much power you are asking a great deal from an engine that from a material and structural standpoint was designed to make less than 300bhp. Some people may be hacks, but you shouldn't be that surprised when something goes wrong when you double the power output of an engine that wasn't but so reliable at stock power levels.
Yes, the engine can "handle" 500hp... for how long? More power = more problems. You are creating more internal heat and much higher pressures than normal in there. I"m not saying you should stay stock. However, if you want a car that you can focus on DRIVING and MAINTAINING rather than constantly repairing and fretting over, you need to start with a solid block and keep your power reasonable.
You might not be able to brag to your friends about how much power you put down on the dyno (which isn't worth **** IMHO), but if you instead focus on the right things you will drive circles around them, and for many more miles.
Good luck.
#31
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
10 Posts
If I were you, I would try to rebuild the engine yourself and hope and pray and ask other rx7 guys to help you with your build. I think most rx7 guys are pretty awesome and will help you out with an engine build. Just make sure you have all the parts to put everything back together when you do it (have a plan, goes much faster).
I also would NEVER let another person touch my engine or tune it. I have not rebuilt my own engine, lucky 7 did with the previous owner, but I did tune the car myself with the help of another board member here.
I think what is good about doing everything yourself is you can take as much time as you want when putting things back together. You can be slow and meticulous and make sure everything is right. If you get to a point where a part is questionable use wise....you can buy a new part and replace it while someone else might throw it back together with a bad part.
The tuning also. You could be the best tuner in the world, but if you only tune the car for 2-3 hours on a dyno.....I dunno. It took me a while to tune my car...a couple of weekends of running 4th gear pulls late at night on empty highway trying to fill in all the cells. I went slow, and made sure I was rich and trimmed the fuel with a conservative ignition timing map.
I vote to do everything youself and keep as much as you can within your control. If you need help tuning your car let me know.....I can pass on whatever knowledge I have to you.
I also would NEVER let another person touch my engine or tune it. I have not rebuilt my own engine, lucky 7 did with the previous owner, but I did tune the car myself with the help of another board member here.
I think what is good about doing everything yourself is you can take as much time as you want when putting things back together. You can be slow and meticulous and make sure everything is right. If you get to a point where a part is questionable use wise....you can buy a new part and replace it while someone else might throw it back together with a bad part.
The tuning also. You could be the best tuner in the world, but if you only tune the car for 2-3 hours on a dyno.....I dunno. It took me a while to tune my car...a couple of weekends of running 4th gear pulls late at night on empty highway trying to fill in all the cells. I went slow, and made sure I was rich and trimmed the fuel with a conservative ignition timing map.
I vote to do everything youself and keep as much as you can within your control. If you need help tuning your car let me know.....I can pass on whatever knowledge I have to you.
#32
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...sings-1024332/
If I were you, I would try to rebuild the engine yourself and hope and pray and ask other rx7 guys to help you with your build. I think most rx7 guys are pretty awesome and will help you out with an engine build. Just make sure you have all the parts to put everything back together when you do it (have a plan, goes much faster).
I also would NEVER let another person touch my engine or tune it. I have not rebuilt my own engine, lucky 7 did with the previous owner, but I did tune the car myself with the help of another board member here.
I think what is good about doing everything yourself is you can take as much time as you want when putting things back together. You can be slow and meticulous and make sure everything is right. If you get to a point where a part is questionable use wise....you can buy a new part and replace it while someone else might throw it back together with a bad part.
The tuning also. You could be the best tuner in the world, but if you only tune the car for 2-3 hours on a dyno.....I dunno. It took me a while to tune my car...a couple of weekends of running 4th gear pulls late at night on empty highway trying to fill in all the cells. I went slow, and made sure I was rich and trimmed the fuel with a conservative ignition timing map.
I vote to do everything youself and keep as much as you can within your control. If you need help tuning your car let me know.....I can pass on whatever knowledge I have to you.
I also would NEVER let another person touch my engine or tune it. I have not rebuilt my own engine, lucky 7 did with the previous owner, but I did tune the car myself with the help of another board member here.
I think what is good about doing everything yourself is you can take as much time as you want when putting things back together. You can be slow and meticulous and make sure everything is right. If you get to a point where a part is questionable use wise....you can buy a new part and replace it while someone else might throw it back together with a bad part.
The tuning also. You could be the best tuner in the world, but if you only tune the car for 2-3 hours on a dyno.....I dunno. It took me a while to tune my car...a couple of weekends of running 4th gear pulls late at night on empty highway trying to fill in all the cells. I went slow, and made sure I was rich and trimmed the fuel with a conservative ignition timing map.
I vote to do everything youself and keep as much as you can within your control. If you need help tuning your car let me know.....I can pass on whatever knowledge I have to you.
Getting all of the tools, and space necessary for the job might not be available.
I would LOVE to do my own tuning, but thats something that to me seems like black magic. I do reckon that tuning on a dyno is safer, and much simpler. I attempted to tune the VAC portion of a map while on the street, and it was a freacking PITA (I am a perfectionist, so I want to hit every single cell on the map). I was told that I could've done the entire vac portion of the map in less than 2 hours if I had the car on a dyno, and thats if I dont really know what I am doing.
All in all, I agree with your ideals
#33
All out Track Freak!
iTrader: (263)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Charlottesville VA 22901
Posts: 10,672
Received 412 Likes
on
250 Posts
I have no experience with IRP but know Rich and Ihor and would feel confident taking my car to them. I've only heard good things.
No experience with KDR/Speed 1 but have heard lots of positive and negative stories so like most reputable shops that have a long history YMMV. Would I take my car to them ABSOLUTELY!!!!!
I have experience with PFS tuning and doing misc BS on my cars and Ray is hands down the best tuner I've dealt with and a crazy good mechanic (FAST and PRECISE).
Pete (ptrhahn) has had his car with PFS in and out since Sept or Oct and Ray R&R'd the engine 4 times and the turbos 3 or more times etc...etc.... Nothing was the fault of Ray/PFS and he's been extremely fair. Pete should tell his story because it takes customer service to a whole new level and I'd feel 100% confident taking any of my cars to PFS (Ray) for any type of service.
I know Levi and he's a good guy so I'm in no way discrediting any of his experiences with PFS and things can go wrong beyond either the mechanics control or the owners etc....etc....that can make for a nightmare experience for both as most of us who have dared to pick up the wrench can attest. Working on 20 year old cars with 20 year old dirty parts trying to assemble them and get them to function as new is needless to say a HUGE challenge and thankfully there are still shops willing to undertake this challenge. So hats off to all the good shops like PFS, IRP and Speed 1.
No experience with KDR/Speed 1 but have heard lots of positive and negative stories so like most reputable shops that have a long history YMMV. Would I take my car to them ABSOLUTELY!!!!!
I have experience with PFS tuning and doing misc BS on my cars and Ray is hands down the best tuner I've dealt with and a crazy good mechanic (FAST and PRECISE).
Pete (ptrhahn) has had his car with PFS in and out since Sept or Oct and Ray R&R'd the engine 4 times and the turbos 3 or more times etc...etc.... Nothing was the fault of Ray/PFS and he's been extremely fair. Pete should tell his story because it takes customer service to a whole new level and I'd feel 100% confident taking any of my cars to PFS (Ray) for any type of service.
I know Levi and he's a good guy so I'm in no way discrediting any of his experiences with PFS and things can go wrong beyond either the mechanics control or the owners etc....etc....that can make for a nightmare experience for both as most of us who have dared to pick up the wrench can attest. Working on 20 year old cars with 20 year old dirty parts trying to assemble them and get them to function as new is needless to say a HUGE challenge and thankfully there are still shops willing to undertake this challenge. So hats off to all the good shops like PFS, IRP and Speed 1.
#34
All out Track Freak!
iTrader: (263)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Charlottesville VA 22901
Posts: 10,672
Received 412 Likes
on
250 Posts
Uhm... You neglected to mention the fact that you are afraid to run your 400hp engine and as a result are going V8!
OP: Sounds like you should take what you can from the situation and move on. As far as reliability, when you make that much power you are asking a great deal from an engine that from a material and structural standpoint was designed to make less than 300bhp. Some people may be hacks, but you shouldn't be that surprised when something goes wrong when you double the power output of an engine that wasn't but so reliable at stock power levels.
Yes, the engine can "handle" 500hp... for how long? More power = more problems. You are creating more internal heat and much higher pressures than normal in there. I"m not saying you should stay stock. However, if you want a car that you can focus on DRIVING and MAINTAINING rather than constantly repairing and fretting over, you need to start with a solid block and keep your power reasonable.
You might not be able to brag to your friends about how much power you put down on the dyno (which isn't worth **** IMHO), but if you instead focus on the right things you will drive circles around them, and for many more miles.
Good luck.
OP: Sounds like you should take what you can from the situation and move on. As far as reliability, when you make that much power you are asking a great deal from an engine that from a material and structural standpoint was designed to make less than 300bhp. Some people may be hacks, but you shouldn't be that surprised when something goes wrong when you double the power output of an engine that wasn't but so reliable at stock power levels.
Yes, the engine can "handle" 500hp... for how long? More power = more problems. You are creating more internal heat and much higher pressures than normal in there. I"m not saying you should stay stock. However, if you want a car that you can focus on DRIVING and MAINTAINING rather than constantly repairing and fretting over, you need to start with a solid block and keep your power reasonable.
You might not be able to brag to your friends about how much power you put down on the dyno (which isn't worth **** IMHO), but if you instead focus on the right things you will drive circles around them, and for many more miles.
Good luck.
#36
All out Track Freak!
iTrader: (263)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Charlottesville VA 22901
Posts: 10,672
Received 412 Likes
on
250 Posts
That's correct all things engine related go out the window because as we all know the LS engines are bullet proof and can run unlimited power so you now only have to worry about the drive line, bump steer, exhaust, wiring etc...etc.... I kid I kid
#40
^^^
Yeah I agree, I am not looking to make crazy power. I want something that is going to be somewhat reliable and fun to drive on the weekends and nice days. Doesnt need to be faster than everything on the street.
Did you part your kit together or did you buy it all together?
Yeah I agree, I am not looking to make crazy power. I want something that is going to be somewhat reliable and fun to drive on the weekends and nice days. Doesnt need to be faster than everything on the street.
Did you part your kit together or did you buy it all together?
#41
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
I bought my kit from Sean at A-Spec.
Honestly, though I thoroughly dislike Ray from a professional/business standpoint due to how he's STUPID expensive and seemed to lack all "give a ****" and attention to details while building my previous engines... The man can weld pretty damned well.
If you ask I'm sure he'd be willing to build you a manifold/DP for the new turbo, and source you a turbo as well. Just go into it knowing full well that he's going to charge the living **** out of you, and it will probably take three times longer for completion than he originally estimates.
I had Ray make me my current exhaust (full 4" exhaust) and it's actually pretty damned nice, it just cost a pretty penny and he got lazy on the DP/MP connection.
Either way you end up going (I would see if Elliot (Turblown), Sean (A-Spec), or Ray (PFS) can/will make you a kit. I'd avoid rx7store as their pricing looks nice, but the majority of their unspecified stuff is ebay crap) I would suggest that you get the turbo, manifold, and DP ceramic coated (as hot a temp and durable as you can get) from the get go. Minimize your engine bay heat but avoid header wrap.
If you *really* want to build your car up it's not likely to be cheap, and if it is than I pretty much promise you that you'll be getting **** parts that are just slung together by the shop. Hell, I almost wouldn't be surprised if you get my old engine parts in your car since I returned them to PFS instead of being able to use them as a core for Mazda, or destroying them (like they need to be since they were uselessly worn).
Honestly, though I thoroughly dislike Ray from a professional/business standpoint due to how he's STUPID expensive and seemed to lack all "give a ****" and attention to details while building my previous engines... The man can weld pretty damned well.
If you ask I'm sure he'd be willing to build you a manifold/DP for the new turbo, and source you a turbo as well. Just go into it knowing full well that he's going to charge the living **** out of you, and it will probably take three times longer for completion than he originally estimates.
I had Ray make me my current exhaust (full 4" exhaust) and it's actually pretty damned nice, it just cost a pretty penny and he got lazy on the DP/MP connection.
Either way you end up going (I would see if Elliot (Turblown), Sean (A-Spec), or Ray (PFS) can/will make you a kit. I'd avoid rx7store as their pricing looks nice, but the majority of their unspecified stuff is ebay crap) I would suggest that you get the turbo, manifold, and DP ceramic coated (as hot a temp and durable as you can get) from the get go. Minimize your engine bay heat but avoid header wrap.
If you *really* want to build your car up it's not likely to be cheap, and if it is than I pretty much promise you that you'll be getting **** parts that are just slung together by the shop. Hell, I almost wouldn't be surprised if you get my old engine parts in your car since I returned them to PFS instead of being able to use them as a core for Mazda, or destroying them (like they need to be since they were uselessly worn).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
risingsunroof82
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
8
09-07-15 01:11 PM