Manny,
Why did you get a tranny brace? You already have a diff brace that does the samething.

Jason

 

It doesn't do the same thing as the diff. brace, it has actually nothing to do with what the diff brace does. Diff brace limits diff movement, the trans brace limits trans movement.

 

I bought Dragon's version of this brace a while back and have left the tranny shield disconnected. Maybe you could use zip ties?

 

100% correct. with both braces my engine didn't budge and i didn't break motor mounts and i need to waste money on a torque brace

manny not having the trans pan is not a big deal. if you are going to hit something that bad the pan won't do a damn thing anyway

 

When the trans shifts back so does the diff. They are all connected to each other. The only thing a trans brace is going to do is stop the side to side movement which is very little.

Jason

 

that movement is what breaks your PPF and causes you to misshift. so yeah its important

 

Correct, but you can either stop that movement at the tranny or the diff. Im just saying that using both is probably pointless.

Jason

 

if you have just a diff brace it will not stop movement of the engine/trans and just crack your PPF alot. i should know i broke 3 PPF's before i put on the braces

 

Personally I think having the entire powertrain--engine, transmission, and rear diff--braced, maximizes driveline stiffness, and transmits maximum power/torque to the drive wheels. This is what I was after--maximum driveline efficiency. Eliminating the slop in the driveline transmits more of the engine's work to the rear tires for propelling the car forward. Eliminating all the slop in the driveline also gives you more throttle sensitivity to the rear drive tires. So yeah, I think the transmission brace is a good idea, even if you already have the ETB and rear diff brace installed.

vosko, I have OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder). It's OCD that makes me want to do stuff like put the transmission shield back on, after installing the A-spec transmission brace. It's OCD that makes me clean my engine bay regularly, so that it looks as good as it did brand new nearly 12 years ago. The only drug that lets me relax from OCD is adrenaline. I get that from open track driving. Unfortunately, open track driving with my daily driver feeds my OCD behavior because I must have a perfectly running car for me to drive it 9/10ths all day long.

It's a vicious cycle: insanity <--> joy <--> insanity.

 

i live with OCD roomates i understand

 

This is correct, I would say your better off having both than just one.

-Sean

 

I just broke my subframe and blew apart my rear end. Stupid drifitng, haha. Wish I would have had one of those, haha!

 

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I put on my Diff Brace a week and a half ago, and I can't say I'm happy... I guess wanting the power to be smooth and predictable, and saving my diff has caused other discomforts....

I have the Rx-7 Store's Midpipe Muffler, and the Diff Brace, Ordered from Rx-7 Store as well... (Are those kids college funds mature yet Jason ? )

The Diff Brace, was not an easy fit, had to drill out the holes on the chassy side to make it fit. Even so the angle that the piece was bent at didn't match my car by at least 3-4 degrees... After all that the MP Muffler arm to the rubber suspension was not able to reach without bumping against the brace... So we sawed it off, and proceeded, now the exhaust flops around and you can hear it hit stuff when going over speedbumps or bad roads...
Also Vibration / Noise above 5 k rpm is noticable, and above 7 almost scarry.... at least for me for the first time... Felt like the drive shaft was going to explode (maybe a bit extreme) through the drive tunnel.... some definite vibration though....

I would strongly concider polyurathne suspension mounts for the diff, before buying this thing, which is possibly what I might go back to, just to see if it's a compromise between wheel hope and drivability.... Allthough for Drag Racers, who do a lot of launches I would say the discomfort might be part of the Price of Admission.

 

I just looked last night and have a similar fitment issue as DCrosby. The holes on the chassis side seem to be almost a 1/4" short to match up.

Haven't decided if I'm going to drill them out to fit yet, but probably will and see what all the pros/cons are I;m seeing here are about.

 

Just so we are clear, you are talking about the diff brace not the tranny brace.

 

Not yet

Some suggestions to those that are thinking about doing the diff brace.
You dont want to install this on the floor in your garage. The reason it was off a few degrees is the bar flexes and you have to mount it on the diff first and then use a bar to push the brace into position. We have installed a few of these and lower the car onto our tranny holder to put leverage on the brace. Flexing it into position so the holes lineup on the other side.
There is the issue with the midpipe arm, but we just bend that up so its out of the way.

Jason

 

as far as the vibration is concerned did you use any rubber washers or anything to cut down on vibration? that may help but im not sure how much

also id like to see someone integrate a diff brace into a chassis brace.... seems like a good idea to me.... jason, how about a knock off auto-exe bracing system w/ an integrated diff. brace, along with a tranny brace for a complete bracing kit package??? id get one for sure

maybe even add a bar from the diff. straight up to connect back to the body brace for even more rigidity.... and i would say have some good relativly flexable rubber washers anywhere the brace bolts to the drivetrain... rubber on tranny brace, and on diff mounting points.... the point of the drivetrain braces are to controll GROSS movement correct? some dampened limited movement for the drivetrain should be allowed (i wouldnt use rubber on chassis braces though)

 

i provide a link for install to show how it should be put on after someone buys it. i will PM the two of you the link. the fitment problems seem as if you dont know how to instal it properly hence the degrees and holes being off. that or you car is not straight.
rotor motor, if you want to send me a set of those to make your way, we can talk. PM me you contact number.

 

Reading through the thread, there is indication it is a straight bolt up. In my case, thats not completely accurate. My car is straight as it gets, but obviously there are variances even straight from the factory.

Honestly, I didn' try very hard to get it on. The car is on jack stands and I as thinking that maybe the diff was slightly turned or something.

Please PM with the link and I'll give it another look.

Thanks

 

I think a "bushed brace" would probably be the best overall approach for a more streetable car. Both of these braces are first cut versions and can improve with feedback. I know I've seen tranny braces for other cars that had integrated bushings. Now I know why - vibrations.

It will take some tinkering for whomever is so inclined to try and fit some bushing like material or redesign the initial version to address these issues.

 

So how much vibration are we talking about guys? Some people say then dont have any and others make it seem like thier car is going to vibrate apart.

I dont really like vibration. I'm hoping its not going to be much at all if any.

(SPOautos crosses his fingers lol )

STEPHEN

 

my car had a nice RING to it.... on a free rev. if you can't take a vibration.... you shouldn't own a FD. they rattle, creek, make all sorts of noises.... i also had an open wastegate too... just keep telling yourself its a race car

 

Or a decorative garage ornament...

 

The most refreshing part of this whole experience has been rxrotary2_7's concern for the issues I was having, instead of just chalking it up to another nut who bitches a lot. The fact is most parts, incl. Rotary Extreme, and other manufacturers, incl. the Midpipe from Rx7store.net didn't fit my car perfectly, the midpipe forced the exhaust against the tow hook at the back.. Made an annoying racket... So most things purchased have to be "Adjusted" to work as expected... It's when I have to go out of my way to get something installed that I thought I could do myself that I get a bit upset, since that costs me $$ over what I expected to spend on a specific job... in this case I ended up going to a body shop that referred me to a muffler shop for the welding and fittment... which I can highly reccomend if you're in the West L.A. Area...

In the case of the Midpipe, I was allready @ the muffler shop and he didn't charge me much to re-weld the muffler to accomodate the change in angle... -> Hence no bitching

As an added note, he also seems to ajust his designs, to make changes so I might have gotten an early version of his product. So future products are likely to see less and less issues as time goes on...

 

I have sold 100 of those midpipes and have not had any problems. I have also installed many of them. If anyone has issues with them please let me know. It shouldnt push on anything since they are the same length as the cat.

Jason