Kahren

iTrader: (13)

i am only aware of that they are all teh same from 99+ and 98 and under correct me if i am wrong and how do i tell them appart, if i were to get a 99+ how woudl i know i am gettign a 99+ are tehre diffrent numebrs or anythign by which i can tell?

laujesse

iTrader: (19)

The 99 turbo's are not all the same. The RB model turbines are do not have abraisable compressor housings. The 280hp spec ones RS/RZ have the abraisable compressor housing. However ALL the 99 spec all have the gold color actuators.

As for the rest of the turbines it is visually almost imposible... You can tell by the numbers on the front of the compressor housings some times, there are such wide varitey of combinations of number that is very difficult to tell exactly what they are.

laujesse

iTrader: (19)

3's and 4's on the front of the compressor housings is a alomst sure sign you have 96-98 turbines...

On 99 RB's RS's and RZ's the numbers I have seen so far are 2,3,&6

I dont know what the US spec are for sure... never actually seen one... but they seem to be the same as the 92-95's form over here... crappy... with a triangle labled rear compressor housing.

everything I have listed hear is not written on stone it is just what I have seen. If you KNOW I am mistaken pleas speak up.

maxpesce

The 99+ RS/RZ compressors have a BLACK abraidable coating on the Inside. al the others are un-coated (stock)

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

does it matter what model the turbo came off of? i though it was only the year that mattered and that all models of the same year had same turbines?

what will u guys recomment on gettign since my stock twins are dying and i deff want stock twins and i also do not want to sped too much money on this

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

bump

maxpesce

I think the model does matter for 99+ there are three power levels -
255hp for the autos 260 for the base models and 280hp for the RS/RZs and I think only the 280 hp versions have the Abraidable housing turbos and the others have the newer turbines and compressors w/o the abraidable coating on the housings

Brentis

Has anyone figured out any finite way to tell the difference of the JSpec turbos? i.e. If I had a pair of "99 turbos" how can I tell without digging inside of it. Is there a model number/etc????

Tim Benton

iTrader: (1)

you can tell by looking into the turbo compressor side of both turbos and seeing the black plactic abraidable seal on the inner lip that the blades sort of curve around.

Tim

Flyrx7

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone also know if the housings on the 99+ turbos are any better? Do the turbine housings and wastgate still crack beyond usable limits or are they using a better material now?
I doubt I will ever go single, as I do very much like the sequential system (when it works), so I'm just figuring out my options for the twins, as it appears that there is 3-4 different stock sets to choose from now.
Any insight would be appreciated.

Regards,
Frank

r0t0r-rooter

Here's a pic of my turbos which kind of shows the plastic lining by the compressor blades. I don't know how long they would hold up under constant use... it looks like it might grind away if there's any play whatsoever. Sleep_r1 would know if there are any durabillity issues as he tracks his car with these turbos.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

rotor rooter,

how do you like your 99+ turbos compare to stock 93+??

r0t0r-rooter

I like them a lot
I'm guessing part of the reason is just because they are brand new. 10 psi comes on ~ 2100-2300 rpm. I haven't dyno'd the car since the rebuild, but by the seat-of-the-pants, I'd have to say that 99-spec turbos + streetport @ 10 psi is about the same as my old turbos + stock motor @ 11.5-12 psi.

Brentis

thanks Roto!

7racer

Damn! I know what i want for X-mas....

speaking of which...how many different vendors sell these?

Does Mazdacomp have them available?

redrotorR1

Aside from the black abraidable(sp?) seals and the gold/copper colored actuators, I noticed extra reinforcement bolts on the compressor housings. The turbine housings look the same .... but then again, I'd never seen what brand new turbine housings looked like until I bought the RS/RZ's.

Performance-wise, I'm very pleased with them. Mine are just like r0t0r-rooter's ... 10psi by ~2200rpm, peak 13 by 3000. The transition is as close to seamless as possible. IOW, the rear end doesn't get sloppy at all during transition.

Cihuuy

one question, isnt it better to upgrade to a BNR rather than to an '99 spec twin?? how much are the '99 spec by the way??

laujesse

iTrader: (19)

It is better to go with the BNR's if you have a good core to send them and are looking to try to full tune(400+hp) your car with stock twins???

If you are keeping the car fairly stock, no.

The stock 280hp turbines are about $3000USD new from mazda.

r0t0r-rooter

This is more of an update rather than upgrade. I'm just guessing, but these should be somewhere ~ BNR stage 1's/Pettit hi-flow's. I got these brand-new from SR Motorsports for $2599 + shipping

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the 280hp models 99+, are the only ones to get the better turbos. the 265hp cars have the same turbos we have

mike

Flyrx7

iTrader: (1)

These are the ones with the abraidable (abraisable) seals, correct?
Are these safe for 15 pounds of boost by chance? (all other fuel mods aside of course)

Frank

SleepR1

I have the J-spec '99 twins (now with 5200 miles and three open track events). No comparison between US-spec and the J-spec twins. Currently having trouble with the turbo control sequential system. Once I get those issues sorted out, I'll be out waling on 911 Twin Turbos again LOL Highly recommended choice for fastest spool-up time and virtually no lag. I have no experience with BNR, and don't what they offer in terms of performance. I can say the J-specs are quite possibly the best twin turbochargers available for the FD Rx7...

Coulthard Fan

SleepR1 - I'm having a little trouble with the control system of the 99+ twins as well. I first noticed it on the track (at VIR), the 2nd turbo just wouldn't come on line in the straights after a few laps. I'm going to have a few things checked before my next track day - but I think it going to be tough to diagnose because this has only happened on the track. What problems are you having?

Kahren - the only way I knew for sure that I got 99's was the black abradable seals which are plainly visible in the housings.

Cihuuy

some members here said that the BNR is the way to go as it can handle more boost and produce more power than the '99 spec twins...

if it is an update, then what is it an update from?? they just basically change the turbo wheels and etc rite, and not the housing?? so y is it an update and not an upgrade?

redrotorR1

It's an upgrade. They changed a number of things on the '99 RS/RZ turbos. The seals, the turbine wheel size, the compressor wheel fins .... supposedly the interior compressor housing is different; although I've yet to see it firsthand (you're more than welcome to tear apart your own set of RS/RZ turbos ). The performance alone sets it apart from the previous generation turbos.

SleepR1 and Coulthard Fan, the sequential problem might have to do with your ECU settings. I've noticed a problem with the secondary lagging after going WOT, lifting, and getting back on the throttle. I've heard this is a PFC issue (possibly a PFS purple box issue too?). For the PFC, my local tuner says there's a setting for transition that you can manipulate to correct the secondary lag problem. If not that, check your solenoids. (Yay! Back into the rat's nest! )