i am ready to install a reman(bought from malloy) in my 93 rx7. Looking for any advice about common oversights. this is my first rotary. i had rc engineering clean the injectors, bought new feul and water hoses from rotary performace, reusing silicon vac. hoses only about 10,000 miles on them.also have gasket set #8df7-13-111. any recommendations on sealants and ways to insure the fuel lines don't leak would be greatly appriciated. ps. i have bruce turretine's 93 r&r video and his 13b rebuild video. sorry about the long and non-specific post. thanks craig

 

I'm new as well, so don't take my responce too seriously unless some of the more knowledgable guys agree. But I'd replace those silicon lines just because you have the engine out, and it's very easy to put 100% fresh new lines on that will cost about 100 bucks. I know they only have 10,000 miles on them, but it's one of those "I have the motor out and it doens't cost much so why not do it" kind of thing.

 

have fun

I payed the $1100 for R&R (plus new clutch and fuel pump)

it was worth it

 

Change the fuel pulsation damper while your at it if you still have the original one.
Might as well change the clutch too.

 

thanks engberg and vudoodoodoo, thats the kind of info i need , i appreciate you taking the time to post reply, yzfr1 during removal there was a couple of times that 1000 to 1500 looked like a bargin, but i figure this is the best way for me learn about this car and what it will take to keep t up. thanks agian, craig

 

I'm in the exact same situation. Yesterday I started transferring the parts from the old engine to the Malloy reman. One thing I found was that the install gasket kit does not include some of the necessary gaskets. Specifically, you will need the turbo oil return gaskets. I don't think it came with the oil filter mount o-rings, but I have to double check that. I'm going to make a list of the gaskets I need to buy this afternoon; I'll let you know what I find out.

Reuse your old vacuum lines if they are still flexible. There is no reason to replace them with only 10K miles on them, unless they are getting brittle (which they shouldn't be).

I'm putting in a new ACT clutch/pressure plate, but my old one is completely shot. Change your FPD if you haven't done so already. I would also change your OMP oil lines; they are like $20 each, and your old ones are probably brittle.

 

Pay attention the the order of all the lines (electrical, vacuum and oil). By the time you realize anything is on in the wrong order you will have to back track several steps to get to them.
The wiring harness above the engine tend to be very brittle (injector connectors, vacuum solenoid connectors) and will break off if not carefull. Be carefull not to switch the water temp sensor and the fuel temp sensor connectors, the connectors are the same color and same size/orientation.

 

paw140, already bought new oil injec. lines from R.P. the list of additional gaskets would very helpful. trexthe3rd i labled and video'd the disassembly(about 120 labels) but i apreciate the heads up on the connectors, even with the labels i will probly still miss something. thanks agian and your advice/help is greatly appreciated. craig

 

good time to do some pollishing, also an enfini pipe, oil preasure sending unit also, and now is a great time to run some wires or vacume line to the interior. if you left the engine wiring harness on the engine you can easily run lines through the rubber plug at this time

 

Here's what I found about the gaskets. You definitely need to replace the turbo oil lines gaskets, as these would be a total biatch to replace after the engine is in place (these were not included in the kit). Also, depending on how you took your engine out, you may want to replace the o-rings and crush washers for the oil cooler lines. I'm reusing my crush washers, but buying new o-rings. The o-rings for the oil pump base are included in the kit. I also already bought new crush washers for both sides of the new oil injector lines.

Some other gaskets that are not included that you may want to replace: turbo to manifold, ACV, TB to UIM, elbow to TB... that's all that I can think of right now. Mine are in good shape so I am only ordering the following:

N3A1-14-604 (2) - Oil cooler o-rings
N3A1-14-293 (2) - Turbo oil line gasket
N3A2-14-293 (1) - Turbo oil line gasket

I would also recommend replacing every single coolant line while you are in there. Some of them are nearly impossible to get to once the engine is in, and they tend to fail. All of my hoses only have 5K miles on them, so I'm reusing them all.

 

I would make sure to take out the oil cooler(s) and clean them off, have the thermostats, o-rings, washers replaced and take a smallish flathead screwdriver and fix any dents in the fins. If you have a few hundred bucks to spend, put in a radiator too. It will be a little easier now with the engine out.

 

Here is one for you....

When you are installing the passenger side engine mount to the engine, you will need to remove one of the bolts that they put in the pan to seal it. This will leave an extra hole in the oil pan, but it must be removed for the engine mount to seat properly. I used a dab of silicone sealant to fill the hole where the extra bolt came out before I installed the motor mount.

I also noticed that you did not mention the injector seals (aka insulators). These should be replaced too!

Kudos on doing the swap yourself.

Jeff

 

quick ? for you guys who bought a reman motor,what was your total cost on the motor with shipping,im in the market to buy a reman motor myself, i would like to compare the prices to what i was quoted thanks guys.

 

I have talked my local dealer into selling them to me for $2000. Mazda ships them 3 day air all the way to Oregon! (Included in the price)

Good luck

 

I paid $1950 for the engine, $180 for shipping both ways to Mississippi from Virginia. Also remember that if you buy out-of-state, you don't have to pay sales tax. My local dealer wanted $2200 + $130 for tax. Also, Ray will give you a deal on the install gasket kit ($100). He also guarantees new rotor housings because of his high volume.

 

i was quoted about the same as you guys 1,995.00 and 180.00 for shipping,gasket's for 100.00,i feel good knowing im not being overcharged thanks for your input aReX-7 and paw140 and good luck with your 7's.

joe

 

does anyone recommend a shipping company for shipping a motor? i just bought one, but we are working on finding the least expensive reputable freight company that is willing to pick up from a residential address. please email me:

rx7speed811@hotmail.com

thanks in advance!

 

I shipped with Fedex freight. But I had to either ship it to a business, or pick it up that the loading place. I opted to pick it up at Fedex. If you have access to a truck, I would recommend doing this.

 

Don't ship it UPS. It would be cheap, probably about $80 each way, but I work there and would never trust them to ship an engine. People drop packages all of the time, especially heavy ones. Packages also get lost or split open all of the time. Also, if the shipping label comes off somehow, the package basically becomes property of UPS unless you claim it and provide documentation that it is yours. Finding out where it is can be an exercise in futility. I wouldn't worry about most of this, except for the dropping thing.

 

i am getting it shipped to a commercial address (my mechanic's shop), just we are having a problem finding a company that will PICK up the motor at this guy's residential address in colorado. would fedex freight be willing to pick up the motor at a residential address and deliver to a commercial address?

i didnt know that people ship motors via UPS, especially through a system where they could be dropped or mishandled... engines are pretty damn heavy, i thought they can only be shipped via freight. interesting.

 

I don't think UPS can ship an engine.... am I mistaken?

I don't think Fedex Freight will pick up at a residential address either, but all you would have to do is find a way to get it to a business. Find someone with a truck! The engine & crate only weight 210 lbs, so it's easy for two people to pick up and move around.

 

I HATE UPS!!!

They have damage so much stuff!!!

I got a box two days ago with my rear turbo poking out! yeah, I was happy...

 

sorry, been gone
cournal i am not sure if i what a manual boost control in the car or not i bought a pfs pmc from cyberben going try controling boost with it.
paw140 thanks on the heads up on the crush washers and oil return gaskets
stlfd have pulled oil cooler and staighten fins. it was pretty beat up looks much better now.
arex-7 can i see this problem if i mock up the mounts wtih the engine still on the engine stand.
jg937 1950 + 150 shipping+ 100 gasket kit
rx7speed811 $150 i will post the shipping company tonight when i get home. engine came in a hard platic crate. thanks again for all the help i hope your engine install goes smooth paw140, craig

 

sorry, it looks like i sent the freight paper work back with the core. call ray crowe at malloy he has been very good to work with. 888-533-3400 had mine ship to my work , no problems. have a good one

 

How long did it take to get your core charges back?