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Input Needed on Local FD (modded on original motor)

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Old 05-14-11, 06:37 PM
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Photos attached.
Attached Thumbnails Input Needed on Local FD (modded on original motor)-img00083-20110514-1407.jpg   Input Needed on Local FD (modded on original motor)-img00084-20110514-1408.jpg   Input Needed on Local FD (modded on original motor)-img00082-20110514-1348.jpg  
Old 05-14-11, 09:21 PM
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Sorry to hear about the ******* in the BMW.

Be wary of any body shop, they tend to flood the car often while killing the battery and causing additional problems. I'd pull the battery out of the car and have them agree to push it around.
Old 05-14-11, 11:40 PM
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Good point, the only time I have ever had a flooded rotary was at a dealership with my RX8.

As a follow-up, looks like pettit offers their plateless front bumper in urethane but I can't see it discussed anywhere on this forum. Please chime in if you have any information to provide me on this.
Old 05-15-11, 01:33 AM
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I got a new cwest rear aftermarket bumper if interested, It'll cover up part of that rear panel. Glad your ok~ Hopefully be good as new soon
Old 05-15-11, 01:40 AM
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"1. Pettit plateless 99-spec front bumper (any opinion on this piece -- fit well? fiberglass or urethane preferred? is there another seller with better fitment (rotary extreme) etc?
2. Front driver's side fender (best place to purchase?)"

both of these are for sale in the west section classifieds as of now.
Old 05-15-11, 12:41 PM
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Thank you Meio -- I will likely be ordering all parts through venders as insurance company will be involved and I imagine it is just that much easier. Where is best place to order OEM fenders? Ray at Malloy?
Old 05-19-11, 10:33 AM
  #32  
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As an update:

1. I heard from the insurance adjuster. He is going to meet me at my house, inspect the car, give me a total $ estimate and cut me a check for that amount... I hope he does not low ball with the dollar figure but I am prepared to refute, request a readjustment, etc.

2. Talked with Jimmy at Pettit and virtually everything I need is in stock or easily obtainable.

At this point I am just hoping to deal with a reasonable adjuster and not discover any horrific frame damage etc. In the end, the final product should be pretty sweet if all is done correctly.

Will update more as the car goes in to a shop.
Old 05-20-11, 10:22 AM
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best of luck getting her fixed back up, I would probably just let the body shop worry about ordering the OEM parts you need replaced if you want new. They can probably get it cheaper than you could from Ray, even after their markup, but check with Ray and the body shop anyways.
Old 05-20-11, 10:37 AM
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Sorry about your car and I really hope they catch that ******* in the bmw

Originally Posted by chiefboon
As an update:

1. I heard from the insurance adjuster. He is going to meet me at my house, inspect the car, give me a total $ estimate and cut me a check for that amount... I hope he does not low ball with the dollar figure but I am prepared to refute, request a readjustment, etc.

2. Talked with Jimmy at Pettit and virtually everything I need is in stock or easily obtainable.

At this point I am just hoping to deal with a reasonable adjuster and not discover any horrific frame damage etc. In the end, the final product should be pretty sweet if all is done correctly.

Will update more as the car goes in to a shop.
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: You need to be informed about the cost and extent of the damage before the adjustor cuts you a check. It is extremely rare that an insurance company will out right give you a fair price without any proof of cost on your end.

Bend that fender out of the way and drive yourself to THREE different body shops and have them give you an estimate. Do not disclose any prior estimates with them (have them all do their own). In the end all three estimates should should be in the ball park of each other.

Get the adjustor to come over and have him do his inspection. If he low ***** you then inform him that you have three estimates that refute his figure. At that point you shouldnt settle for anything less than tge lowest estimate.

Another thing: know the fair market price of your car. Not what you paid but what other cars within the vicinity go for. With FDs the vicinity can mean several different states as these cars are rare. The reason for this is just in case they try to total your car you also know what it costs to replace it. Under the eyes of the law you are entittled to fair market price not blue book.
Old 05-20-11, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Montego
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: You need to be informed about the cost and extent of the damage before the adjustor cuts you a check. It is extremely rare that an insurance company will out right give you a fair price without any proof of cost on your end.

Bend that fender out of the way and drive yourself to THREE different body shops and have them give you an estimate. Do not disclose any prior estimates with them (have them all do their own). In the end all three estimates should should be in the ball park of each other.

Get the adjustor to come over and have him do his inspection. If he low ***** you then inform him that you have three estimates that refute his figure. At that point you shouldn't settle for anything less than tge lowest estimate.

Another thing: know the fair market price of your car. Not what you paid but what other cars within the vicinity go for. With FDs the vicinity can mean several different states as these cars are rare. The reason for this is just in case they try to total your car you also know what it costs to replace it. Under the eyes of the law you are entitled to fair market price not blue book.
The last bit is the best advice you can be given, its what I did when my first FD met death by fire (its being resurrected by someone else). Print off several examples to show the adjuster so he doesn't say something asinine like "well its just a 20 year old Mazda."

But since your car probably won't be totalled the first bit is a great idea, when my daily was hit that's exactly what I did. The insurance company has to repair your car to the condition it was in prior to the accident at a body shop of YOUR choosing unless they have some clause in their policy that says you must take it to a certain body shop.
Old 05-20-11, 04:06 PM
  #36  
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I appreciate the advice. I am supposed to meet the adjuster Sunday afternoon and will be taking it to three separate body shops tomorrow morning for estimates.

As I have collector's car insurance, I believe part of the policy includes an agreed-upon value, which in this particular case is $15k. I want my car fixed and back on the road a lot more than I want any cash in my pocket... will keep everyone updated.

Thanks for all of the excellent advice so far.
Old 05-20-11, 07:03 PM
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who do you do your collector's insurance through? I've been thinking about doing that myself.
Old 05-21-11, 09:17 AM
  #38  
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American Collector's Insurance, so far I've had zero issues with them. Will give a more thorough review at the end of this process.

NEED INPUT -- looking at the pictures above, is it reasonable for a shop to offer to "repair" my front and/or rear bumper rather than replace? I 100% prefer brand new front and rear. As you can tell the front bumper took significantly more damage than the rear.
Old 05-21-11, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by chiefboon
As I have collector's car insurance, I believe part of the policy includes an agreed-upon value, which in this particular case is $15k. I want my car fixed and back on the road a lot more than I want any cash in my pocket... will keep everyone updated.
Good you got an AGV (agreed value) policy. That's really good for a car like this or any car that has been modified in any way or has value beyond blue book. That was a really smart move, I wasn't so lucky. I'm surprised it's only $15k though, seems kind of low. But hopefully they can fix it without totaling it out. If they did that you'd have to pay deductible and buy the salvage back and the local salvage yards would probably offer more than $2k for this salvage so you'd come out with less than $13k and a salvage title. I really hate jerks that run away from accidents like that, they should be paying for your car. Just keep an eye out on youtube or something. Sometimes people are stupid enough to brag about stuff like that.
Old 05-21-11, 11:48 AM
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I would think that the rear is fixable while the front would need to be replaced. But I'm not a body man by any means and if all three bodyshops are saying the same thing it's certainly something to ponder.

Just in case pm classicauto as he works in the auto body repair industry. He is a cool guy and wont mind providing his $.02
Old 05-21-11, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by chiefboon
American Collector's Insurance, so far I've had zero issues with them. Will give a more thorough review at the end of this process.

NEED INPUT -- looking at the pictures above, is it reasonable for a shop to offer to "repair" my front and/or rear bumper rather than replace? I 100% prefer brand new front and rear. As you can tell the front bumper took significantly more damage than the rear.
yes it is reasonable, when my last vehicle was hit the body shop I got an estimate from before the insurance adjuster saw the car asked if I would rather repair or replace it. If you opt to replace it they will cut out the body panel and weld in a new one and should use as little filler (bondo) as possible. The price difference is usually not that great so I would tell them to replace the damn thing.

Originally Posted by GodSquadMandrake
Good you got an AGV (agreed value) policy. That's really good for a car like this or any car that has been modified in any way or has value beyond blue book. That was a really smart move, I wasn't so lucky. I'm surprised it's only $15k though, seems kind of low. But hopefully they can fix it without totaling it out. If they did that you'd have to pay deductible and buy the salvage back and the local salvage yards would probably offer more than $2k for this salvage so you'd come out with less than $13k and a salvage title. I really hate jerks that run away from accidents like that, they should be paying for your car. Just keep an eye out on youtube or something. Sometimes people are stupid enough to brag about stuff like that.
Ever had a vehicle totaled? In my experience with my insurance company (2 of my vehicles have been totaled in 3 years, none my fault) they have a set percent that they take out from the amount they pay you for the salvage title. For me it was 10 percent, so say his is totalled, he would get 15000-(.1 x 15000) or 13,500.
Old 06-20-11, 10:15 AM
  #42  
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Update:

Haven't posted much in here lately because there has been so little progress.

The appraiser really turned out to be a helpful guy. I simply stayed out of his way, was very curteous and let him do his thing (expecting a low initial quote and figured the bodyshop and the appraiser could sort it out through a supplement). The initial quote from the appraiser ended up being very accurate and will probably cover 95% of the repairs. Also, the appraiser let me know the "totaled" value of the car would be $10.5k so I should have no trouble keeping it under that.

Car has been at the body shop for 3 weeks now but not a lot has been fixed. All parts have been ordered and 99% of the parts have been received. I am going to go with a plateless 99-spec front, FEED sides and I have had the rear shaved (spoiler, wiper blade, washer fluid nosel and antenna removed). Car is going to get a full repaint in factory VR.

The car was on hold for a while to go on the frame machine, they didn't want to begin body work until they determined the exetent of frame damage. Car finally came off frame machine Saturday and all measurements were spot on -- ZERO frame damage. I'm very pleased to hear that and look forward to getting the car back. Everything should move along very quickly now and can't wait to have my car back on the road.

Here are a few initial pics of the body shop removing all of the rear accessories I mentioned.
Attached Thumbnails Input Needed on Local FD (modded on original motor)-body-shop-1.jpg   Input Needed on Local FD (modded on original motor)-body-shop-2.jpg  
Old 06-20-11, 04:33 PM
  #43  
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should get the cwest rear bumper i got to compliment it all =P
Old 06-21-11, 10:50 AM
  #44  
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I am not sure the cwest would compliment anything on my car whatsoever but I've got no problem with another local making a shameless for-sale plug!

Rear bumper is going to be stock (ordered a used OEM bumper off the forum) and the 99-spec front will be complimented with Shine's FEED sides and Craftsquare style rear add-ons, both in FRP.

I wish there were more low-profile spoiler options. I am on the fence regarding the Shine piece and don't see any other options... My previous RX8 had the Racing Beat rear wing (very similar to what you'd see on a G35) and I would love something similar but significantly smaller / lower-profile on here. Any other low profile options I am overlooking?

Pic of my RX8 for all the ladies out there:
Attached Thumbnails Input Needed on Local FD (modded on original motor)-rx8-1.jpg   Input Needed on Local FD (modded on original motor)-rx8-2.jpg   Input Needed on Local FD (modded on original motor)-rx8-3.jpg  
Old 06-25-11, 12:02 PM
  #45  
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I wasn't getting many updates from the body shop over the past week so I swung by this morning to snap some pictures myself. Coming along nicely... all holes previously discussed have been welded shut and smoothed over, rear quarter panel has been popped back out and reconstructed and smoothed over, majority of body has been sanded down and prepped for primer (bye-bye lower rocker panel texture). He said roughly two more weeks.



Trunk smoothed out after holes welded shut.





Rear quarter panel reconstructed, he said it matches perfectly with the taillight and bumper -- hope so.





Her sad temporary home. My guy says roughly another two weeks... we'll see. They are going to begin working on the urethane plateless 99-spec bumper this week and finish getting it ready for primer. New gaskets have been ordered for windshield / rear hatch glass so that they can be removed for paint. Starting to really come along now -- will post more pictures soon hopefully.

Stephen
Old 07-05-11, 09:44 AM
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Rear quarter panel finished, driver's side primered. They still need to fit the new driver's side fender and begin work on my plateless urethane 99-spec replica. Car has been on hold for several days as they wait for the insurance appraiser to review the final supplement.

Hoping for paint by the end of this week but I may be too optimistic.

As of last Friday:


I ordered supplies to paint the calipers, brake rotor hats and wheels once the car finally comes out of the shop. Still waiting on my FEED-style sides and rear craftsquare add-ons from Shine but no updates on that front.

Stephen
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