chiefboon

I am hesitant to post a thread discussing a single car but would like specific input as to this setup:

1993 Touring, 5 spd with 63k miles on original motor. Compression results on a Mazda rotary tester came back Front: 7.1/7.3/7.1, Rear: 7.4/7.1/7.2.

I have already asked for documentation and information on what rpm that test was performed at. Numbers appear to be lower than ideal, but consistent throughout chambers and within Mazda's minimum specs (pending RPM data), correct?

My concern is that the original motor is still in the car coupled with the following mods:

JECS High Performance Fuel Pump
Upgraded primaries - 850cc
'99 Efini Turbos
Racing Beat Hi-flow Cat + Downpipe
M2 Cold Air Intake
M2 Medium SMIC
Apexi Power FC with controller
Blitz Dueal Boost Controller (4 settings - stock, 11 psi, 14 psi, 15 psi)
Vacuum hose replacement

Pending additional information on the compression test, what is your opinion of this setup?

I am not worried that I will someday need to rebuild, but I'd appreciate if I could get another 5-10k miles after purchase. My goal is to have a weekend warrior with HPDE events / light track duty in the future. Based on scouring the forums, this seems like an ideal setup for my needs.

Thanks for the input -- I sincerely do not wish to clog this forum with new threads and hope this inquiry does not rub the Admins the wrong way. I've been lurking for years now and hope to be a part of the community soon.

Thanks guys,

Stephen

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Buy it and immediately get it tuned, unless you have documentation that a known tuner did it. Then save up money for a rebuild. It's always cheaper to rebuild before it blows up. If it blows, you may have to replace a turbo, a rotor housing, a rotor, possibly irons...

If it were me I'd buy it, drive it a few months, then pull it and ship it off to get rebuilt. Do the rebuild on your terms.

blue87

iTrader: (2)

I agree with arghx. I would also add if you buy it the first thing I would buy is a wideband ifit doenst have one. I don't think anyone should be running an aftermarket/modded car should be in the dark regarding AFRs. Keeping an eye on the fuel can be a early indicator of somehting going wrong, or not being tuned properly for temeprature changes such as when it starts to get colder outside...

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

I would also ask for a pressure test of the coolant system to make sure it isn't leaking.

Do you have the possibility of posting the add here?

chiefboon

Confirmed that Front: 7.1/7.3/7.1, Rear: 7.4/7.1/7.2 Compression tested at 245 RPM, these are decent results correct?

Good information on the wideband and I'll post engine bay photos as I receive them this week.

Thanks guys,

Stephen

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That compression isn't bad at all. The mods list would be good for a start on a track car. Don't neglect to check out the brakes, suspension, transmission and other areas of the car (i.e. don't solely focus on compression numbers).

chiefboon

Thank you for the input -- good advice.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

According to the service manual this is very good for the Mazda compression tester and Mazda compression checking procedure.

chiefboon

No update in several weeks only because the owner and I are having a hard time arranging a meeting. Should hopefully happen this weekend...

Arghx, Mahjik and others -- see anything interesting / of concern in the following engine bay picture I received? Thanks in advance.

adamrs80

iTrader: (7)

I don't see the picture

chiefboon

Thanks for the heads up, I see it fine from here... I uploaded it to my album, let me link it this way:

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=32009

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

How far is the car from Garland? If possible I'd bring it by Chris and Ari at RP and have it looked over. Those compression numbers are low so I'd purchase it expecting a rebuild in the neaar future.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Looking at the engine bay picture, the airbox is missing the cover, and the strut bar is missing. Also no emissions on the car (no airpump anyway), and the brake pads are probably getting low on material.

chiefboon

Thanks for the input.

How difficult would it be to acquire and reinstall the airpump system on to the car if I decided to down the road? I am searching but not finding an answer.

The car will actually be registered in a county without emissions but thinking long-term.

Thanks!

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

pretty sure getting the air pump would be pretty simple, ton's of people around here remove it. Hell I think I could dig mine out in an afternoon.

Rx-7Addict

iTrader: (2)

those are excellent compression numbers

Rx-7Addict

iTrader: (2)

i would go 1300 or 1600 cc secondaries in the near future. youve already got the pump to support it. that car is probably making 300-330 rwhp at this point

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

how much are you getting it for? just out of curiosoty? Sounds decent though..

chiefboon

Thank you all. I purchased the car last weekend and am having a blast with it. I greatly appreciate all of the input.

I traded in an 05 rx8 plus $2000 cash on my part. I think that puts the price of this rx7 at around $12,000 (assuming $10k trade).

So far it is a blast... looking to have the tune touched up locally but am very pleased with the car. Upgrading to larger secondaries would be in anticipation of even higher boost, 15-18 psi? What kind of power would I be looking at?

The current tune appears to be extremely rich / safe and allegedly yeilded in the neighborhood of 315 whp (at what psi I am not sure, I would imagine 14/15).

I can genuinely say this is the greatest vehicle I have ever ridden in -- very happy with the purchase and proud to be an owner.

Stephen

rdgt99

iTrader: (3)

Congrats on purchase!

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

congrats, those turbos won't take much more than 15 psi and maintain their life. When you say controller do you mean the commander? If so you can see what the boost is using that, go into monitor and select boost, do a run and it'll display what the max boost for the run was. If you want to run 15+psi, remove the 99 spec twins and sell them for a good price (I got 1500 for my slightly used ones a few months back) and go single. The other option is getting the BNR stage 3 twins, but for that purpose I would get a used set of USDM twins and still sell the 99 spec ones.

just my 2 cents.

chiefboon

Thanks for the input. The car is predonimantly driven at "stock" boost setting which is roughly 11 psi at this point. I plan to only dial in the 14-15 psi on occasion. Whatever power the car is putting down at 15 psi is more than enough for me -- it just feels like a monster coming from an Rx-8.

After I get the tune touched up (only problem I notice is the car shuttering on decel during city driving / does not happen at highway speeds) I think I will be very satisfied.

chiefboon

I am needing two new air filters and was wondering if anyone knew of one that would fit well? The filters will need to be 2.5" -- the K&N's that were on here were all bent and warped due to the hood pressing down on the filter. Is there an angled filter that would work well or a much shorter filter (greddy style) that someone would recommend?

See pic above for a look at the K&N filters that were on there.

Thanks all.

Stephen

chiefboon

I think something angled would work well -- considering buying two of these. Same overall shape, length and diameter but with a 20 degree bend:

http://www.jegs.com/i/K%26N/599/RU-1770/10002/-1?CT=999

chiefboon

Well, new set of needs for the RX7.

I took the car out for a cruise this morning and was clipped by a 1-series BMW and sent into a guardrail at 65 mph. There were several other cars involved and no one was hurt. The BMW driver took off but everyone corroborated my story and the police report reflects that. Damage is to fron driver's side (bumper, headlight cover and fender) and rear driver's side (tail light, rear bumper and rear quarter panel).

I could not drive the car as the front driver fender was caved in but the car runs fine and I really hope there is no hidden frame damage... only time will tell I guess as the car is fully inspected.

On the a few questions I have about my parts list:

1. Pettit plateless 99-spec front bumper (any opinion on this piece -- fit well? fiberglass or urethane preferred? is there another seller with better fitment (rotary extreme) etc?
2. Front driver's side fender (best place to purchase?)
3. Rear Bumper (best place to purchase OEM?)
4. Tailight (already have extra)
5. Rear quarter panel (really hope they can simply pull out the damage and repaint, not sure how they would replace/repair)
6. Paint (I would strongly prefer a full repaint of the car, given the number of panels that need work and the fact that I was already contemplating a repaint).

Can someone with knowledge chime in on whether a body shop would likely prefer a clean repaint on the entire car versus matching 5+ panels on an 18 yr old red car?

Physically I am fine, hoping the car is fixable and there is not some hidden frame, engine, etc. damage I can't see. Will try and post pictures shortly.

Thanks,

Stephen