Monkman33
I read the whole robinette page and found a lot of usfull info but there was no infromation abut boost levels on stock ECU, at least i didnt find it. I'm not a 17 year old, i know where to look but here im tryin to figure out things i can not find in FAQs

 

ok I'll be nice. I apologize you are a civil man and we need more people like you here.

FAQ's

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

Boost levels on a stock ECU should be left at 10 psi. You can actually upgrade quite a few components and not need an ECU and fuel as long as you stay at 10 psi MAX.

For about two years I had:
Mild streetported engine, M2 cold air intake, PFS SMIC, DP, MP, catback. All those mods on a STOCK ECU but I always controlled the boost to stay at 10 psi. That is key: no boost creep and no boost spikes. Solid 10 psi I can't stress that enough. You'd be surprised how well the car responds after adding mods on stock boost.

 

i would fill the tank up with race gas before i hit the track. if u want to raise ur boost a bit...

 

Won't mater if he puts jet fuel in if the ECU shuts it off. Like montego say's the 3 mod rule was dropped for keeping the boost at 10 psi. over 10 psi, a little spike, a bit of creep and some cool night air. POP goes another rotary.....ever wonder why we loose so many. Sometimes you get lucky, most cases you loose the motor.

 

I apologize profusely, but I gotta thread hijack.


RX7LINK, what rims are those in your sig?

 

Was not intending to call you a 17 year old. heck, I was only 14 when I decided I must have an FD (after sitting in the passenger seat with a helmet on and getting thrown around a road course... exhilarating!). It wasn't until I was 22 before I found the one I wanted and bought it. Now I can't stop spending money on her. :-P

Back on topic. It is just not worth the risk you take on the stock ECU to raise the boost above 10 psi. especially when you consider the minimal gains. fuel cut is bad news. the way the stock ecu reacts to overboosting is to just stop. not the best design in my opinion, but it is what it is. I think you are doing a good job researching and hypothetical situations are just part of putting the big picture together in your mind. The more you understand what you are getting into, the less likely you are to blow something up. General rule is to stay at 10psi though. Once you get a PFC (or some sort of ECU) that can control larger injectors for higher boost, then you can drive with fewer worries. However, until then, sit back and enjoy the ride at 10psi... it is pretty fan-friggin-tastic in every sense.

 

Monkman33
thanks, good post. how much HP can i gain from increased airflow with SMIC, downpipe, intake, muffler and other reliability mods with boost kept at 10PSI? Can I count on 300 or is it too optimistic? I'm saying this cuz I saw TKT Base Performance Package on pettit which included only catback, intake and power pulley and they say its good for 60hp damn, huge increase for those little mods

 

Someone dyno'd a few years ago with full bolt-on's and the stock ECU at 10 PSI; they got 266 rwhp (a little under 300 hp). A good condition FD all stock will dyno about 215 rwhp to 220 rwhp.

So, at the same PSI and tuning, just doing flow mods gave about a 40+ rwhp increase. Add in an upgraded ECU and a little more boost and you can easily see how the numbers can begin to climb.

 

>.< sorry, off topic. those are Work Emotion CR-Kai. i posted dimensions in pics thread. page 220.

 

Wow are those nubers correct i mean, very very small drivetrain loss. from what i know even transversly mounted midengine NSX creates 15% of it