3000 miles on Malloy reman, running Fluidyne radiator.

PFC set at 195 degrees F. VDO temp sensor measuring at the filler neck next to the water level sensor. This location is supposedly 15 to 25 degrees higher than the temp of coolant coming to the throttle body.

No problem for the car at idle to maintain this temperature of 195 to 200 in 90 degF.

On highway, ambient temp of 90F, the temperature started rising towards 210F at 80-100 mph with the car spinning about 4000-4500 rpm in 4th gear.

Same speed but in 5th gear, the temp went back down. At no point during drive will the temp goes past 210 even when boosting hard in 3rd gear for over a mile.

That was the only strange thing I noticed: holding the same vehicle speed, if you're in a lower gear, i.e., higher rpm, the temp seems to rise higher. Other than that, characteristics are similar to EG/Water.

During shutdown, the auxiliary electric water pump kept the temp from shooting past 240 deg F.

It's a great kicker to leave the engine running after a hard run, call your co-workers over then suddenly reach over and open the radiator cap.

It's the biggest riot to see people ducking for cover, in real fear of being steam burned!!! Of course nothing happens as the boiling point of this coolant is 375F.

Lets see if this engine will eat its o-ring like the last two.

 

Thanks for taking the time to post your results. What kind of ratio/mix of Evans and water are you running? You happen to know of a good place to pick up some Evans; do most parts stores have it? I just got my Fluidyne in and am about to install it soon here. Thanks.

 

Isn't it that you should not mix evans with water at all, and that evans should be ran pure with no water

 

the ratio would be 100/0

you run Evens by itself with NO water.

Did, I see you say you have an electric water pump? Mind sharing some info on that setup?

STEPHEN

 

See this thread

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+ELECTRIC+PUMP

 

So what are you saying? You can drive the hell out of it and just open the cap with nothing spewing out? I find that hard to believe. Even though it boils at 375F, it still builds pressure in your system, should anyways.

 

Evans coolant doesn't require pressure in the system to raise the boiling point of the coolant and they recommend using a "0 psi" cap.

 

WOW, that's the first I heard of that. I wonder if I should use this in my FD. What do you think Jim? Good for my car or no?

 

I wouldn't bother, and in fact, I sold the 4 gallons of Evans NPG+ that I got through the group buy from Pineapple. We don't have the heat problems that the rotary guys do.

 

I have been running Evans in my FD for almost 2 years now. The only bad thing I have to say about it is that it is expensive, if you get any leaks or have any other problems you must have a backup bottle to top it off. On the flip side running 0 psi it is alot easier on the hoses so you dont get that many leaks in the first place.

I hava bought it from Rob at Pineapple, and from Mooneyes. Never have found it locally but I am sure there is a hotrod place somewhere that has it.

 

I agree.

The rotary has way to much thermal output especially with the twin turbos. Way too much hot spots so I think extreme problems require extreme solutions.

 

do you think it is worth getting? evan's coolant.
andrew

 

Aren't we a little premature with that post?

 

You don't think anyone's built a 500+ RWHP LT1 before?

 

True. I mean't you hadn't had the experience of having the engine reach operating temps to determine how hot it got yet....

 

Normal operating temperatures will be about the same as any other pumped up LT1 with a 160° thermostat, and there are plenty of those to use as examples. My CSI electric water pump flows more than a stock water pump anyway, especially in the lower rpm range. My Koyo is easily the equivalent of a 4th gen. F-body radiator also.

As far as WOT, there are plenty of people making more horsepower than I am that I used for comparison when making the decision to sell my stash of NPG+. Relatively speaking, almost no one in the F-body community runs Evans coolant because there's no reason to.

 

Jim, you can hem and haw about predicted operating temperature but everyone knows PVierdick owns you.

 

Evans NPG+, NPG=None aqueous Propylene Glycol.
My new motor has is going on the second year with NPG+ with no problems, 0 psi with no AST. Never lost any coolant, never had to add a drop. This stuff will not corrode anything in the cooling path (pumps, seals etc.) like EG+water so it will last almost as long as the motor will (100,000 miles) without having to flush the coolant and refill every 10-15K.
My temp never exceeded 200F (hard driving) with 98+ ambient. My stock gauge never even reach the middle, while every healthy stock cooling system I have seen(EG or PG +water) has the stock gauge pegged dead center. I know I am actually running cooler than everyone using conventional coolant mixtures.

 

I haven't used mine yet but I was told buy a non rotary mechanic that I should have some pressure. He told me to get a 5lb cap. I wonder if less pressure is better for the o-rings. Especially since I was running 1.3bar cap previously.

 

The only reason why the cooling system is pressurized is to raise the boiling point of the coolant mixture (from 230F to around 280F), NPG has a boiling point of over 370F with no pressure. If your engine actually even come close to that temperature, you've got bigger problem. The more water you use the lower the boiling point and most people like to use 60% or more water in the mixture because it cools more efficiently. What people don't realize is that by doing so, you are also increasing the chance of "hot spots" (nuleated boiling) directly resulting in seal failure.
Ask your mechanic why you need any pressure in the cooling system, if he tells you any other reason than what's stated, you need a different mechanic.

 

OK, sure.

BTW, my engine has been run on an engine dyno. I know precisely what the operating temperature range of the coolant will be.

 

How much coolant does an FD hold with a Fluidyne Radiator? I need to know how much of this stuff to get. I'm trying to search but can't seem to find the exact capacity. Thanks in advance for any help.

EDIT: Found it. Looks like 3 gallons should be plenty to fill and have some extra.

 

Evans come 4 gallons in a box. I just get a box and don't have to worrie about it again until the next engine.

 

It really makes me wonder about people's technical abilities when I read a comment about "the stock guage" relative to the temp of the car.

I've had a bunch of FDs and I can tell you for a fact the stock guage does not tell you what temp the engine is at. If it is in the "middle" or "below the middle" is purely guage tolerance.

Typically the stock guage will be at it's normal position when the engine reaches ~140F, then it'll pretty much stay there until ~240F. Some stock temp guages hover in the middle and some a little higher or lower than that.

 

Actually ummmmmm NO. I have seen over a dozen FDs temp gauges over a span of 4 years none of them, I'll say again, NONE of them read below center (that is not saying there are no FDs with gauge variances, I am simply stating what I have observed).
I'm also pretty sure I did not say anywhere in my post that the stock gauge will tell you the temperature of the engine (that's why I have an after market temp gauge).
I also did the comparison on my own car and prior to the conversion, my gauge was reading dead center and above vs. now always below center. So my current running temp is in fact lower than before. And because I did the comparison on the same car with the same gauge, your theory on gauge tolerance is out the window.
And by the way, you may not agree and respond with your opinions and questions, that's how everyone learns. However, making comments on other people's tech abilities, not knowing who they are or fully understand what they are trying to say is quite rude.