Uncle Hungry

iTrader: (2)

adamk

ok lads thanks for the help,

and the car has done 60,000km mate.

As for research!!! life would be so boring hey! easy but boring? I like to mess with motors, but when ive had the turbo units off 3 times it becomes no fun. (my fault I know) Ive had no other problems (nothing major) and I love the car.

Right back to this bleed valve if I can, The there are 2 actuators one for each turbo wastegate unit, so do I need 2 bleed valves? also a bleed valve causes the actuator to open less, so I will get more boost, right? so do I need to lower my boost using the actuator rods (make longer) and then use the bleed valves to increase the boost for a 10>8>10.

So does a more free flowing zaust and filter make the boost drop? unless its sorted with a boost controller? hence why I get a 8 psi on secondary rather than 10? (My god it will go bloody fast with another 2 psi)

Do I need to adjust anything else? what about the actuator that moves the wastegate (if thats what you call it) inside the manifold, what does this do? does it direct exhaust to the primary or secondary depending on driving factors?

RotaryBred

there are 3 actuators actually. one is your waste gate, one is your pre-spool and the other is your charge control door. the prespool lets some exhaust flow to the secondary turbo to pre-spool it up so when your charge door opens letting exhaust flow to the second turbo, there is less lag as it spools up to speed. if you look at the diagram of the vacuum lines in the link below, you will (sort of) understand the whole setup. i still don't LoL... it's very complicated! the charge door control is just labeled turbo control. the wastegate is the actuator on the top if you are looking down into the engine from the front of the car. there are 2 lines coming off of it. one one right side and one on the front. it's a very short line that goes right to the turbo manifold. this is the one u want to insert a needle valve in between. there is a restrictor pill in the line that acts as a "fixed" boost controller. hold on to that as you may need it later for other projects. Just remove the whole line and replace it with longer ones so that you can mount your boost controller somewhere accessable. i mounted mine next to the fan relay bracket.

Vacuum Diagram

adamk

fantastic thanks very much!

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

adamk your username looks familiar.. Are you on any of the UK/Europe based forums (FDUK.org/Mazdarotaryclub.com)?

Not to down RX7club or anything but you would be much better off getting your car sorted by checking in there. More local knowledge as far as where to take your car to get it fixed, not to mention that some of the guys on there are pretty damn sharp when it comes to the rx-7 as well.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

"I was going to say, you sure do talk funny for someone who lives in NJ"

thanks Rich for the best laugh of the day hands down.

Hate your FD?

you may already know this but the FD is a project not a car. Buicks are cars. if this weren't the case this forum would have thousands of posts as to what wax etc.

instead it is how to pull your engine in 15 minutes.

plan to re-engineer your FD, to understand all the systems, or sell it.

that said, the FD properly modded is untouchable on a road course. something a Buick isn't.

good luck and enjoy the ride. we are all around to help.

howard coleman

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Manual boost controllers:

Do not mess with the charge control. That is an on-off function, not a controller. The same goes with the turbo control and charge relief. That stuff is left alone unless you want to go with nonsequential turbo setup.

Second, the wastegate is the most important to have adjustable control of. Remove the restrictor pill in the rubber hose leading from the actuator to the compressor. Then bypass the stock wastegate solenoid and put your boost controller in the same part of vacuum hose that the stock solenoid was.

Third, putting an aftermarket boost controller on the precontrol is entirely optional. It's one more thing to adjust and if you're unlucky it can be tedious to get correct. I would see how the wg boost adjustment works for you, and if it gives you a dippy boost pattern then add one to the precontrol.

Dave

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

The boost controller valves come in different varieties: electronic systems, spring and ball, needle.

Spring and ball is definitely the superior of the mechanical valves, since the WG actuator sees no pressure until there is enough pressure to initially move the spring/ball. This allows faster spool and more precise control.

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/

I got a Hallman PRO RX valve off of ebay for 88 dollars shipped, buy it now (usually $120+). It is a very well made product.

For a diagram of the turbo and vacuum systems, look at the FAQ links. One of those sites has a good one.