How do I install the injector grommets, where do they go? I noticed that when I removed my injectors for cleaning, none of them had grommets at all.

 

Ok all i'm doing now is just starting to put things back together, but I need to replace 2 fuel lines and according to Ray at Mazda, these cost close to $100 each from the dealer so he recommended aftermarket fuel hoses. The ones I need are the ones on the vacuum hose diagram labeled as " From Fuel Filter" and "To Fuel Tank" I already know what length and ID I need, but i'm wondering would both of these be considered high pressure fuel lines, or is one of them high and the other low pressure?

Apparently there's a big difference between a high pressure fuel hose and a low pressure and it's very important they go in the right places

 

"from fuel filter"- will be high pressure as it is the fuel supply line

"to fuel tank"- is clearly the return fuel line, still pressurized, but not as much

 

I also bought the OEM fuel recall kit, but it only came with 3 fuel lines... 1 line that goes to the primary fuel rail, another line that connects to the secondary fuel rail, and the third line is also high pressure which obviously goes to the "From Fuel Filter" line and receives fuel from the fuel pump.

However that leaves me with 1 line left over, and that is the "To Fuel Tank" line. Being that this line is not pressurized and its a return hose to the tank, would a standard aftermarket Goodyear 50 psi fuel hose be adequate here?

 

So far I ended up removing the stripped stud on the waterpump housing. It was a LOT easier then I thought because it was sticking out and I was able to use a vise grip to pull it out and I did it all before breakfast lol

Just installed the final fuel hoses for the solenoid rack. They are pretty easy to install if you spit in them first. One thing though, I kinda mixed up which hose goes where, and im pretty sure I have it right but not 100%. The lines that I hooked up in the picture for the pressure line from the fuel filter, and to the tank, are they connected in the right places? Unfortunately the vacuum hose diagram doesn't show this only a slight glimpse. I know for sure that the hose that goes in the middle that I didnt attach yet is for the evaporate emissions and not fuel.

 

This might not seem like a big deal, but for about an hour last night, I tried and tried to get the vacuum chamber back in the car , but no matter what I did, it would NOT fit?? so I gave up and reinstalled some other things. to not waste time.

Eventually I have to reinstall it though, does anybody know how the hell that black vacuum chamber installs in the car?? its the chamber that mounts in between the waterpump housing and the power steering pump, please anybody whos been through this before any help is appreciated.

 

Almost done getting everything together and now im installing the boost and water temp gauge. I'm choosing to hook the wires up to the interior fuse panel under the drivers side footwell. Does anybody know where I can plug them that will have a constant 12 volts, and also ignition power? or if someone could point me to another thread with the info, i'd really appreciate it

 

This will finally be finished in the next few days once I receive a couple more parts in the mail. I LOVE self fusing silicone tape, i'll NEVER use electrical tape again!

Here's some pics so far of the project:

 

 

Just finished up the vacuum hose job this morning worked all night, and started the car for the first time in about a month and..... it started great, idles smooth, no check engine light everything seemed fine.... until I noticed massive amounts of fuel pouring out from the rear of the car????

That makes no sense I didnt even do any work on the rear at ALL. Idk what happened but im gonna take a look at it later today after I get some sleep, can any body possibly point me in the right direction here???

 

Ok now I have a HUGE problem. It seems that the temperature of the engine keeps rising and rising like its trying to overheat!!!!!!!!!! I let it get to about 230ishF MAX when I turned the car off because I realized it was NOT gonna stop rising

Another thing, now all of a sudden my radiator fans will stay on when the car is not running, as in they run by themselves and the only way to stop it, is if I disconnect the battery, and reconnect.

I really have NO idea what could have happened. I installed a new OEM waterpump, an FC thermoswitch, repaired the wiring for the green connector that plugs right next to the FC thermoswitch, a new OEM thermostat, and installed a water temp gauge sensor into the throttle body coolant hose.

PLEASE any experienced FD owners HELP!!!! I feel like im gonna loose my mind, I dont have a clue what the problem could be

 

I see you have a number of problems, but if the fan recall has been performed on your car, the fans should run for about 10 minutes after the ignition has been turned off, if the coolant temperature is much above normal. Our '94 does that occasionally, like after a long highway run on a hot day.

Getting the coolant full up in the engine is kind of a long process from starting empty. Lotsa places for air to hide. It usually takes me a couple of days to get all the air out.

When you re-installed the thermostat, did you orient the "jiggle pin" at the top? (Page E-15 of the manual says to do that.)

What is the ratio of ethylene glycol to water in your coolant mix? More than 50% glycol can cause overheating. Mazda states in the manual to use a 65% water, 35% glycol mixture if ambient temperature is above -16°C (3°F).

 

I did insert the jiggle pin at the top when installing it. Im using 50/50 mix coolant. Theres no leaks or anything, just the temp keeps rising and rising until I have to shut down the car or else it'll overheat.

I NEVER had overheating problems with this car before EVER. The problems started after I installed the new waterpump, thermostat and FC thermoswitch. I also repaired a wiring harness connector that plugs into the waterpump its a green connector (idk what its called) Is it possible to hook the wires up backwards

 

It sounds to me like you a MASSIVE air bubble or your t-stat isn't opening.

Try burping the coolant with a funnel. The Lisle funnel is great with the fitting that goes over the radiator cap and attaches to the funnel. Let the car warm up with the funnel installed and you can try squishing the radiator hoses to persuade an air bubble out.

 

I tried that and I could not get any more air out of the system and the coolant was still full. One thing I noticed just now is that the waterpump pully is covered in coolant and it SUPER slippery. I hope thats the problem!!!! I will report back here in a little while

 

I was just thinking that it could be because the water pump isn't being spun for some reason, do you have the air pump or if it's removed do you have an idler pulley?

 

Ok problem solved, I believe it had more air in the system, because now everything runs great. I let it idle for about 45 minutes and periodlcally revved the engine up and it didnt overheat, and after a while the temps dropped exactly to 205 Degrees and stayed there for 45 minutes idling.

Too bad I cant test drive the car yet, because now I have to replace the bad throwout bearing and do the clutch, but at least when I DO drive it, I know nothings gonna break or leak. this is not over yet, theres still the test drive, but I will make sure to keep everyone posted about the progress, thanks so far for the help

 

Ok, I noticed that when I turned the car on and let it run, the boost gauge doesn't show any boost? Its a manual gauge but it just stays at zero. The gauge I have doesn't measure vacuum, so I don't expect it to move at idle, but when I rev the engine up, it still doesn't move. I unplugged the vacuum hose from the nipple on the upper intake manifold and blew into the hose with my mouth and the gauge needle starts to move so I know the gauge works.

Shouldn't I be getting some kind of boost when I free rev the engine?

 

no... no boost in idle... thats normal. drive it and you will see boost

 

I just read this thread all the way through today for the first time. Sorry I missed your quote earlier, but IMHO silicone hose should NOT be used for carrying hot oil, whether or not that is its primary purpose. Recommend you go to this pdf file and read it though. Pay particular attention to the photo of the silicone hose after being immersed in hot oil. I think I mentioned in an earlier post that silicone hose is not good in that situation. The BUNA-N factory material will handle hot oil better, but eventually (as you know) heat will get to that material and make it like a stiff plastic. Viton is really the best, but the sizes available here in the States are not a perfect match for the 4 and 6 mm RX-7 factory hoses. The choice is 1/8" or 1/4" ID, so the small size is tighter, and the large size is looser than stock. Nevertheless, I used Viton everywhere and "made it work." Our near-stock '94 FD now has 108K+ miles on it and still runs well; so far no problem with any hoses.

 

Ok I finally got my car running again for the first time in 2 months and it runs a lot better, but the boost feels the same as it did before so im def not satisfied.

OK heres the deal with the boost...

I noticed I was boosting about 5-7 psi all the way through red line and it continued like this throughout the entire drive. However, I DID for like 30 seconds get a full 10 psi and it didnt go beyond 10. Once I got to 10 psi, it backed down to 8 psi like an FD SHOULD be running. Then when the boost decided to stop going to 10 and start going to 5-7 my happiness turned into disappointment.

How in the world did I get perfect boost for a while, then all of a sudden im back at 5-7 psi? The fact that I got 10 psi tells me I DID hook up all the vacuum hoses right, but something else is the problem. I'll be honest, the only thing in the entire car I didn't test, is the TCA (Turbo Control Actuator) because I didnt have the right tools.

Every single vacuum hose in the entire car has been replaced, including viton check valves from dale clark, and used low mileage solenoid valves tested each one before installation and I had to toss a few in the trash that were not working/slow to respond. If anybody can guide me in the right direction id really appreciate it.

 

I was unable to duplicate the 10 psi unfortunately, but if I remember correctly, I was def in a higher gear when I got the full 10 psi (most likey 4th) but when I tried to get 10 psi in the lower gears (1st and 2nd), the highest i'd boost is 5-7 psi and the needle looks like its fluttering trying to go higher but it couldn't.

 

Ernesto13B,

Are you sure that rubber coupling between the top of the Y-pipe and the input to the long intercooler pipe is not leaking? I had similar trouble a few years ago... the coupling had to be replaced.

 

Nope I have a hose techniques silicone 3 ply coupling there. A vacuum leak there is very noticeable. Once I had that hose you mentioned pop off while driving and all of a sudden a LOUD whooshing sound and no power I knew something was wrong I just needed to tighten the hose clamp.

I need to get the car smogged first so I can start driving it again. Idk why but I have a strong feeling that my Turbo Control Actuator is bad. Thats the ONLY component in the entire sequential system I didn't test. Everything else including all the vacuum hoses, check valves, and solenoid valves are all good as I tested each and every one before re-installation. I mean the problem could be 10,000,000 different things, but im confident that it has nothing to do with mis-routed vacuum lines, non functioning solenoid valves, leaking/incorrectly installed check valves, or any other part which really narrows it down to only 1 thing.

After doing some research, my symptoms seem to be pointing to a bad TCA which would make sense with an 18 year old car, but I i'll need to drive the car more to verify the symptoms and ill report back here as soon as I have results.

 

Drove the car today took a long cruise well (not exactly cruising) and the boost is idk weird. In first gear I NEVER hit 10 psi, but in second or third gear ive been getting a full 10 psi to redline Sometimes I get 11 psi I dont like that very much though. I really need to take a video or have somebody ride with me so I can show them the problem its really hard to explain.

Sometimes if I step on it I get 5-7 psi while boosting, but if I let my foot off the throttle and step on it again maby a few times then I will get 10 psi to redline VERY weird. When I do get a full 10 psi I can def feel a LOT more power. I'll have to post a video.