Im ready to do a FULL vacuum hose job, need pointers
10-14-09 | 04:03 PM
#1
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: California
Im ready to do a FULL vacuum hose job, need pointers
Ok so I have been putting this off for a while, but after I noticed that another vacuum hose broke apart, I figured now is the time to get this done.
I wanna go all out with this, because I never wanna have to do this again in my life. I'm gonna be using hose techniques silicone vacuum hoses, I would also like to replace every single solenoid under the manifold, because I know they will break and fall into my hands in pieces when I attempt to remove anything. I may have to repair broken wires, and harnesses and im prepared for all of it. I would like to know where people are getting the Viton check valves from? I heard they will outlast OEM ones. Im probably gonna go with some new chrome piping and a greddy Intake elbow to get rid of the Accelerated warm up system, and provide more flow.
I know its a big job, im sure I can handle it. Anybody have any links to where I can get Viton check valves, and maby a good write up on how to do all of it? thanks
I wanna go all out with this, because I never wanna have to do this again in my life. I'm gonna be using hose techniques silicone vacuum hoses, I would also like to replace every single solenoid under the manifold, because I know they will break and fall into my hands in pieces when I attempt to remove anything. I may have to repair broken wires, and harnesses and im prepared for all of it. I would like to know where people are getting the Viton check valves from? I heard they will outlast OEM ones. Im probably gonna go with some new chrome piping and a greddy Intake elbow to get rid of the Accelerated warm up system, and provide more flow.
I know its a big job, im sure I can handle it. Anybody have any links to where I can get Viton check valves, and maby a good write up on how to do all of it? thanks
10-14-09 | 05:25 PM
#4
Check Dave's page:
http://www.davidgeesaman.com/
He has a write-up out there on the hose job (as well as other helpful information).
http://www.davidgeesaman.com/
He has a write-up out there on the hose job (as well as other helpful information).
10-14-09 | 06:17 PM
#6
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: California
The problem with labeling everything and taking off one at a time thats not gonna work for me, because right now I actually have some vacuum hoses that are routed to the wrong locations. Thats why I may need to rip everything apart and follow a digram little by little and put everything in the right place. As for the nipple thing... I know they are all gonna break no matter how I remove them, because I removed one carfully, and it snapped off 
so ill be replacing all the solenoids under there too, unless the are SUPER rediculously expensive.
so ill be replacing all the solenoids under there too, unless the are SUPER rediculously expensive.
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10-14-09 | 09:27 PM
#8
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From: California
You know what, thats not a bad idea. Cutting the end of the hose off carefully with a razor blade with nerves of steel, may actually prevent anything from breaking. I will keep that one in mind, thanks.
10-14-09 | 09:48 PM
#9
Plan to not use the car for a few days and it takes the stress off the job somewhat. Take frequent breaks.
I found that the hoses were too hard to really cut - even with a razor blade.
Small pencil torch or butane lighter for a couple seconds tended to soften them up enough to twist the hoses off.
Good time to change your oil metering lines if need be. If you DO unbolt the fuel rails to get to the oil metering lines remember the bolts for the primary rail and the secondary rail are NOT interchangeable. Things will look tight bit you will end up with a big vacuum leak and have to take everything back out.
I WISH I had tested the solenoids one by one before installing them. Could have saved me hours of troubleshooting later.
Oh yeah - don't be lazy. Pull the WHOLE rack by unbolting it from the block.... not the chickenshit way most write ups will tell you to by removing the locktited screws at the front and back.
I found that the hoses were too hard to really cut - even with a razor blade.
Small pencil torch or butane lighter for a couple seconds tended to soften them up enough to twist the hoses off.
Good time to change your oil metering lines if need be. If you DO unbolt the fuel rails to get to the oil metering lines remember the bolts for the primary rail and the secondary rail are NOT interchangeable. Things will look tight bit you will end up with a big vacuum leak and have to take everything back out.
I WISH I had tested the solenoids one by one before installing them. Could have saved me hours of troubleshooting later.
Oh yeah - don't be lazy. Pull the WHOLE rack by unbolting it from the block.... not the chickenshit way most write ups will tell you to by removing the locktited screws at the front and back.
10-14-09 | 10:01 PM
#10
I'd try the pencil torch first. If that doesn't work, I used a dremel with a small cutting blade. A longitudinal cut over the nipple just deep enough to put the blade of a small screwdriver in and then twist. It almost always broke them clean from the nipple.
FWIW, a spritz of PB Blaster works great at getting the electrical connectors to break loose from years of dirt and heat cycles. It's electrical friendly too
FWIW, a spritz of PB Blaster works great at getting the electrical connectors to break loose from years of dirt and heat cycles. It's electrical friendly too
10-14-09 | 11:01 PM
#11
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From: California
Another thing, I'm going to be replacing my water pump at the same time as a preventative maintenance because it's never been replaced and I don't want that lingering in the back of my mind, so Im wondering, should I also replace the water pump housing too? My water pump housing looks fine, but wondering if that would be necessary
03-02-10 | 12:50 AM
#13
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From: California
Ok I'm almost ready to tackle this project I just need a lot of random hoses and gaskets from Malloy ( all those little things really add up $$$!!) If all goes well, I should be able to start this within the next couple of weeks.
The reason why im posting, is because i'm gonna be installing a water temp gauge at the same time. The place im gonna install it, is gonna be on the throttle body coolant hose, so I was wondering does anybody know where I can buy the "T" adapter to connect the water temp gauge sensor to the throttle body coolant hose, and what size I need?
The reason why im posting, is because i'm gonna be installing a water temp gauge at the same time. The place im gonna install it, is gonna be on the throttle body coolant hose, so I was wondering does anybody know where I can buy the "T" adapter to connect the water temp gauge sensor to the throttle body coolant hose, and what size I need?
03-02-10 | 07:51 AM
#14
OK, got some pics of the brass T I used. I got all this stuff from Lowe's. Can't remember total cost - probably $5-10 or so.
Parts I used -
Brass T with 1/4" NPT ports
2 1/4" NPT hose barbs with (I think) 5/16" hose barbs. The hose barbs were just the size that fit on the TB hoses - I just eyeballed it
. The only other sizes were obviously too big or too small.
1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT adapter/bushing.
As you can see in the pics, teflon tape up the fittings and screw it together. I used the 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT adapter to space the water temp sensor up and away. If I would have used a 1/8" NPT brass tee, the tip of the sensor would have interfered with the opposite side of the tee - best case it would have touched the brass and possibly give a false reading, worst case it wouldn't screw in enough to make a watertight seal at the threads.
BTW, all the Japanese temp sensors are 1/8" NPT - I'm not sure what Autometer is, I'm guessing 3/8" NPT. You're on your own there.
Dale
Parts I used -
Brass T with 1/4" NPT ports
2 1/4" NPT hose barbs with (I think) 5/16" hose barbs. The hose barbs were just the size that fit on the TB hoses - I just eyeballed it
. The only other sizes were obviously too big or too small.1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT adapter/bushing.
As you can see in the pics, teflon tape up the fittings and screw it together. I used the 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT adapter to space the water temp sensor up and away. If I would have used a 1/8" NPT brass tee, the tip of the sensor would have interfered with the opposite side of the tee - best case it would have touched the brass and possibly give a false reading, worst case it wouldn't screw in enough to make a watertight seal at the threads.
BTW, all the Japanese temp sensors are 1/8" NPT - I'm not sure what Autometer is, I'm guessing 3/8" NPT. You're on your own there
.Dale
03-02-10 | 12:40 PM
#15
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From: Fountain Valley, CA
I'm gonna be using hose techniques silicone vacuum hoses...
My thread
Im probably gonna go with some new chrome piping and a greddy Intake elbow to get rid of the Accelerated warm up system, and provide more flow.
03-02-10 | 02:16 PM
#16
This was also the first project I did the first time I got this car and it never ends from there. Its a good tool also to know just in case you will overhaul your engine later on. Yes Dale Clark's check valves works I bought them and replace the OEM ones but I did kept the old ones just in case.
Few pointers check your fuel pressure solenoid this one tends to go bad (this is the one with the orange connector) hard to describe but a bitch to replace when your done with all the hoses. This is what causes the hot start issue.
One at a time, and don't replace the turbo solenoid hoses (2 pieces) it has a jet with different sizes and if you do your boost will be set to 7psi only the rest is just back breaking since the car sat so low in a jackstand will help.
Have fun cleaning that up.
Few pointers check your fuel pressure solenoid this one tends to go bad (this is the one with the orange connector) hard to describe but a bitch to replace when your done with all the hoses. This is what causes the hot start issue.
One at a time, and don't replace the turbo solenoid hoses (2 pieces) it has a jet with different sizes and if you do your boost will be set to 7psi only the rest is just back breaking since the car sat so low in a jackstand will help.
Have fun cleaning that up.
Last edited by envyforrx7; 03-02-10 at 02:17 PM. Reason: n
03-03-10 | 01:41 PM
#21
The reason why im posting, is because i'm gonna be installing a water temp gauge at the same time. The place im gonna install it, is gonna be on the throttle body coolant hose, so I was wondering does anybody know where I can buy the "T" adapter to connect the water temp gauge sensor to the throttle body coolant hose, and what size I need?
They have all these at Home Depot but here are some links for reference:
http://www.veneersupplies.com/produc...PT-Female.html
http://www.veneersupplies.com/produc...o-38-Barb.html
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mil650.html
03-03-10 | 04:34 PM
#23
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,114
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From: California
How hard would it be to replace the Front Main Seal while i'm there? I'd already have the extension manifold off, the vacuum hoses, the water pump and housing (i'm replacing the water pump as preventative maintenance) and probably the alternator. I'd imagine with all that out of the way, the front main seal should be easy to get to, or am I wrong?
03-03-10 | 05:27 PM
#24
Oh boy, now your going deeper watch out and research for "thrust bearing". But do save your money and do change other things like fuel filter, engine mount, differential mount, flush brake fluid, flush clutch fluid, flush radiator, clean coolant reservoir,change serpentine belt, and change the battery.
Then that should be it, well from what I will do.
Then that should be it, well from what I will do.
03-03-10 | 06:17 PM
#25
I took a hose off and replaced a hose one at a time so I did not need to label them. Only when I removed the nest did I have to label the ends. Take your time and use a razor to shave off the hardened hoses and you will not need to replace a single solenoid. Test each of the before using them. I saw viton check valves for sale on EBAY. I also replaced my FPD, my Oil lines, and had my injectors sent to RC Engineering for cleaning and blueprinting while I had all that stuff out. I did not want to go in there and do this a again. Don't forget to zip tie the hoses on with a heat resistant tie and use some silicone adhesive too. Good Luck and take your time/