I'm kind of in a bind, advice?
07-04-06, 08:11 AM
#26
07-04-06, 08:17 AM
#27
Originally Posted by Envy It
by the way mahjik I've never thanked u for all the advise u've givin me in the pasts months, so thanks mahjik.
Originally Posted by Alcoholic
I could take out a loan and buy an nsx or an e46 m3 if I wanted to, but I doubt I'd have as much fun though. The FD is just so damn nimble and easy to throw around.
I have an M3:http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/ho...5_01/M3_03.jpg
It's not necesarily any cheaper to own (especially when you are looking at $250 to replace just a light bulb).
Listen. You are 18 years old. You have plenty of time to have fun with cars. Here's my advice:
1. Get yourself a sporty but affordable car and something you won't kill yourself with right off the bat. Something like a Scion Tc.
2. Get yourself a degree from college
3. Do some track days in your "not all that fast" sporty car so you can start learning how to control cars.
4. Buy a nice place to live with a garage
5. Get yourself a nice, fast, sports car now that you have a nice garage, you should be financially stable, and have learned how to control them!
Good luck!
07-04-06, 09:21 AM
#28
Tools are not going to add up very quickly. This is what I would suggest:
- Craftsman Metric Socket set with 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets up to 20mm. $75(?)
- 21mm socket. $6
- 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar $20
- dead blow mallet $20
- Jack and jackstand set $100
- Prybar $10
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (cheapo: $25)
- Leather gloves ($5)
- Safety Glasses ($5)
So for around $260 you will have all the tools you need. You can get a full or partial rear end from the classifieds for not much. In fact, there are some JDM used parts importers in FL so you might have more at your disposal than most of us. IF the shop was correct in that there is no frame damage, then you can probably get it all fixed for under $1k.
I think the motor can be ignored until it has running problems. Yes, the coolant seals may be going bad and leaking slightly, but until you start losing coolant measurably or have trouble starting it's not a big deal. The description of the engine running temps sounds normal. My engine will roast a garage in a few minutes.
It is a low mileage 95, so I think if you get it running it will sell w/o a problem. No matter how you count the bills the maintenance is going to be a loss. I'm also rather confused how you bought a car from Cali, apparently sight unseen.
But the bottom line is this: you're taking a few hits on the chin at once, which is always a possibility with FDs. It's not well suited to your driving experience/needs, not well suited to your budget (the money is of *much* more value spent on other things when you're 18), and not easy to deal with given your school and work constraints. I think selling it makes the most sense, and I would consider trying to fix the suspension first. I wouldn't disclose anything about the motor unless you're asked (after all, diagnosing coolant seal failure is very subjective when there are no major symptoms, so IMO it needs at least a second opinion), but I would insist that the final buyer gets it checked out at a different rotary shop.
Mahjik's advice about track days and driver schools is subtly vital. I had my FD for almost 3 years before really entering a track day and some autox's. Once you get a taste for the challenge and control of performance driving, you'll realize that the car is secondary to the whole thing. In fact, for driving an event, I'll take a light, cheap car with race tires over a sports car on street tires any day.
Dave
- Craftsman Metric Socket set with 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets up to 20mm. $75(?)
- 21mm socket. $6
- 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar $20
- dead blow mallet $20
- Jack and jackstand set $100
- Prybar $10
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (cheapo: $25)
- Leather gloves ($5)
- Safety Glasses ($5)
So for around $260 you will have all the tools you need. You can get a full or partial rear end from the classifieds for not much. In fact, there are some JDM used parts importers in FL so you might have more at your disposal than most of us. IF the shop was correct in that there is no frame damage, then you can probably get it all fixed for under $1k.
I think the motor can be ignored until it has running problems. Yes, the coolant seals may be going bad and leaking slightly, but until you start losing coolant measurably or have trouble starting it's not a big deal. The description of the engine running temps sounds normal. My engine will roast a garage in a few minutes.
It is a low mileage 95, so I think if you get it running it will sell w/o a problem. No matter how you count the bills the maintenance is going to be a loss. I'm also rather confused how you bought a car from Cali, apparently sight unseen.
But the bottom line is this: you're taking a few hits on the chin at once, which is always a possibility with FDs. It's not well suited to your driving experience/needs, not well suited to your budget (the money is of *much* more value spent on other things when you're 18), and not easy to deal with given your school and work constraints. I think selling it makes the most sense, and I would consider trying to fix the suspension first. I wouldn't disclose anything about the motor unless you're asked (after all, diagnosing coolant seal failure is very subjective when there are no major symptoms, so IMO it needs at least a second opinion), but I would insist that the final buyer gets it checked out at a different rotary shop.
Mahjik's advice about track days and driver schools is subtly vital. I had my FD for almost 3 years before really entering a track day and some autox's. Once you get a taste for the challenge and control of performance driving, you'll realize that the car is secondary to the whole thing. In fact, for driving an event, I'll take a light, cheap car with race tires over a sports car on street tires any day.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 07-04-06 at 09:27 AM.
07-04-06, 12:38 PM
#29
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally Posted by Mahjik
Listen. You are 18 years old. You have plenty of time to have fun with cars. Here's my advice:
1. Get yourself a sporty but affordable car and something you won't kill yourself with right off the bat. Something like a Scion Tc.
2. Get yourself a degree from college
3. Do some track days in your "not all that fast" sporty car so you can start learning how to control cars.
4. Buy a nice place to live with a garage
5. Get yourself a nice, fast, sports car now that you have a nice garage, you should be financially stable, and have learned how to control them!
1. Get yourself a sporty but affordable car and something you won't kill yourself with right off the bat. Something like a Scion Tc.
2. Get yourself a degree from college
3. Do some track days in your "not all that fast" sporty car so you can start learning how to control cars.
4. Buy a nice place to live with a garage
5. Get yourself a nice, fast, sports car now that you have a nice garage, you should be financially stable, and have learned how to control them!
07-05-06, 04:19 AM
#30
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Location: Clearwater, florida
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Originally Posted by Envy It
take a look at these pics, and these are from me, which a few months ago didnt know squat about the FD and had a couple of hand tools here and there, its not just the motor that U have to worry about it can take a beating, its the little things,well if your gonna keep it u might want to install an aftermarket radiator about 45mins and u only need a rachet with an extension if u want to make it easier for u , with the sequential setup u have to worry about the lines cracking which will screw u big time cuz there a pain to find sometimes thats why alot of people like myself switch to a single turbo alot easier and simpler
Originally Posted by Mahjik
You have expensive taste my friend. I have an M3:
http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/ho...5_01/M3_03.jpg
It's not necesarily any cheaper to own (especially when you are looking at $250 to replace just a light bulb).
I have an M3:http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/ho...5_01/M3_03.jpg
It's not necesarily any cheaper to own (especially when you are looking at $250 to replace just a light bulb).
Some day though lol, I need to focus on college right now.
Originally Posted by Mahjik
Listen. You are 18 years old. You have plenty of time to have fun with cars. Here's my advice:
1. Get yourself a sporty but affordable car and something you won't kill yourself with right off the bat. Something like a Scion Tc.
2. Get yourself a degree from college
3. Do some track days in your "not all that fast" sporty car so you can start learning how to control cars.
4. Buy a nice place to live with a garage
5. Get yourself a nice, fast, sports car now that you have a nice garage, you should be financially stable, and have learned how to control them!
Good luck!
1. Get yourself a sporty but affordable car and something you won't kill yourself with right off the bat. Something like a Scion Tc.
2. Get yourself a degree from college
3. Do some track days in your "not all that fast" sporty car so you can start learning how to control cars.
4. Buy a nice place to live with a garage
5. Get yourself a nice, fast, sports car now that you have a nice garage, you should be financially stable, and have learned how to control them!
Good luck!
I just need to find something I can have fun with that doesn't require *constant* draining of my bank account.
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Tools are not going to add up very quickly. This is what I would suggest:
- Craftsman Metric Socket set with 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets up to 20mm. $75(?)
- 21mm socket. $6
- 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar $20
- dead blow mallet $20
- Jack and jackstand set $100
- Prybar $10
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (cheapo: $25)
- Leather gloves ($5)
- Safety Glasses ($5)
So for around $260 you will have all the tools you need. You can get a full or partial rear end from the classifieds for not much. In fact, there are some JDM used parts importers in FL so you might have more at your disposal than most of us. IF the shop was correct in that there is no frame damage, then you can probably get it all fixed for under $1k.
- Craftsman Metric Socket set with 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets up to 20mm. $75(?)
- 21mm socket. $6
- 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar $20
- dead blow mallet $20
- Jack and jackstand set $100
- Prybar $10
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (cheapo: $25)
- Leather gloves ($5)
- Safety Glasses ($5)
So for around $260 you will have all the tools you need. You can get a full or partial rear end from the classifieds for not much. In fact, there are some JDM used parts importers in FL so you might have more at your disposal than most of us. IF the shop was correct in that there is no frame damage, then you can probably get it all fixed for under $1k.
Which brings me to:
How hard can it really be to pull a rotary engine and rebuild it? I consider myself to be mechanically inclined, but I really just don't have experience under the hood. With the help of some tools, an FSM, a rebuild video, and this forum, do you think it's viably possible for a noob like me (who would be working with no necessary time table) to pull and rebuild a rotary engine? Managing that minor feat would give me a great sense of accomplishment.
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I think the motor can be ignored until it has running problems. Yes, the coolant seals may be going bad and leaking slightly, but until you start losing coolant measurably or have trouble starting it's not a big deal. The description of the engine running temps sounds normal. My engine will roast a garage in a few minutes.
I mentioned it to my mechanic while it was in the shop before, but aparently it wasn't acting up at that time so he couldn't diagnose it.
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
It is a low mileage 95, so I think if you get it running it will sell w/o a problem. No matter how you count the bills the maintenance is going to be a loss. I'm also rather confused how you bought a car from Cali, apparently sight unseen.
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
But the bottom line is this: you're taking a few hits on the chin at once, which is always a possibility with FDs. It's not well suited to your driving experience/needs, not well suited to your budget (the money is of *much* more value spent on other things when you're 18), and not easy to deal with given your school and work constraints. I think selling it makes the most sense, and I would consider trying to fix the suspension first. I wouldn't disclose anything about the motor unless you're asked (after all, diagnosing coolant seal failure is very subjective when there are no major symptoms, so IMO it needs at least a second opinion), but I would insist that the final buyer gets it checked out at a different rotary shop.
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Mahjik's advice about track days and driver schools is subtly vital. I had my FD for almost 3 years before really entering a track day and some autox's. Once you get a taste for the challenge and control of performance driving, you'll realize that the car is secondary to the whole thing. In fact, for driving an event, I'll take a light, cheap car with race tires over a sports car on street tires any day.
Dave
Dave
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