Idle everywhere
#1
Idle everywhere
Weird idle issue once again. Car fully warm and all accessories off. Just driving about in the city and sometimes idle is at 1100 and sometimes it's at 750-850. There is no pattern I can find, just idles where it feels like when I stop. Also if I look closely it's not idling at one number. I can see the needle moving slightly up and down when I look closely. I also did have one incident where it was at 750 and was dipping down to 400 trying to die out.
Dashpot was just replaced. Motor just ended break in period. I couldn't tell you vacuum readings because my gauge still refuses to function correctly. When motor was fresh we checked One of the sensors and it was within spec. I think it was either ISC or TPS. Temps are at 180 the whole time so it's not the fans cycling.
Dashpot was just replaced. Motor just ended break in period. I couldn't tell you vacuum readings because my gauge still refuses to function correctly. When motor was fresh we checked One of the sensors and it was within spec. I think it was either ISC or TPS. Temps are at 180 the whole time so it's not the fans cycling.
#2
Does electrical load have any impact on it?
IE turn the headlights on, plus heater blower fan- does this alter the idle or stabilize it?
Had this issue with one of my JDM RHD cars, but never got to the bottom of it before I got rid of the car.
IE turn the headlights on, plus heater blower fan- does this alter the idle or stabilize it?
Had this issue with one of my JDM RHD cars, but never got to the bottom of it before I got rid of the car.
#6
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
If the pin goes in and out normally, its probably ok. It is spring loaded. Just push it in and make sure it springs back out.
If you think it may be bad, remove it and take it apart to clean it. Gently pry the metal tabs back to take it apart. Clean it up, and replace the spring with one from a ball point pen if the spring looks bad.
If you think it may be bad, remove it and take it apart to clean it. Gently pry the metal tabs back to take it apart. Clean it up, and replace the spring with one from a ball point pen if the spring looks bad.
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#9
always something to fix
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Also I know of a buddy that had his oil pressure drop to when the rpms fell down to 500 when he got off the gas, does your needle drop orrpms fall then catch or does it just fluctuate
#10
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (52)
Ensure the TPS is properly adjusted. A sticking thermowax can cause issues as well. Especially if the TPS was adjusted while it was sticking
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...g-more-170731/
Also ensure the idle bleed screw under the throttle body isn't turned more than 1 full turn from completely shut. It's tucked under the input side of the throttle body, and runs parallel with how air flows.
As mentioned, the clutch switch, and the neutral switch both can cause the ECU not to initiate its idle circuit. If you have a Power FC, you can confirm your clutch switch & neutral switch are working properly with the Power Commander. It displays the sensor's on/off state. Also remember, there are two clutch switches. The lower plunger type one is simply a starter relay switch for safety. The switch that affects the ECU is attached to the pedal closer to the firewall.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...g-more-170731/
Also ensure the idle bleed screw under the throttle body isn't turned more than 1 full turn from completely shut. It's tucked under the input side of the throttle body, and runs parallel with how air flows.
As mentioned, the clutch switch, and the neutral switch both can cause the ECU not to initiate its idle circuit. If you have a Power FC, you can confirm your clutch switch & neutral switch are working properly with the Power Commander. It displays the sensor's on/off state. Also remember, there are two clutch switches. The lower plunger type one is simply a starter relay switch for safety. The switch that affects the ECU is attached to the pedal closer to the firewall.
#11
Ensure the TPS is properly adjusted. A sticking thermowax can cause issues as well. Especially if the TPS was adjusted while it was sticking
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...g-more-170731/
Also ensure the idle bleed screw under the throttle body isn't turned more than 1 full turn from completely shut. It's tucked under the input side of the throttle body, and runs parallel with how air flows.
As mentioned, the clutch switch, and the neutral switch both can cause the ECU not to initiate its idle circuit. If you have a Power FC, you can confirm your clutch switch & neutral switch are working properly with the Power Commander. It displays the sensor's on/off state. Also remember, there are two clutch switches. The lower plunger type one is simply a starter relay switch for safety. The switch that affects the ECU is attached to the pedal closer to the firewall.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...g-more-170731/
Also ensure the idle bleed screw under the throttle body isn't turned more than 1 full turn from completely shut. It's tucked under the input side of the throttle body, and runs parallel with how air flows.
As mentioned, the clutch switch, and the neutral switch both can cause the ECU not to initiate its idle circuit. If you have a Power FC, you can confirm your clutch switch & neutral switch are working properly with the Power Commander. It displays the sensor's on/off state. Also remember, there are two clutch switches. The lower plunger type one is simply a starter relay switch for safety. The switch that affects the ECU is attached to the pedal closer to the firewall.
#15
always something to fix
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What were noticeable things that happened to the car before it died.
Mine use to have the issue when I would blip the throttle the rpms would drop, cat shook, and it died.
Fixed it by adjusting the dashpot
Mine use to have the issue when I would blip the throttle the rpms would drop, cat shook, and it died.
Fixed it by adjusting the dashpot
#16
It was weird, just started her up it idled normally just like any cold start and just went dead. No bucking or anything. No CEL and the only code I have thats being thrown is AWS because I don't have that system in there. Going to mess with all the adjustments today and see if I can fix it.
#18
I closed my air bleed screw to half a turn. I am now idling at 400-500 fluctuating. Also backfires on decel. Didnt get a chance to mess with TPS because had a different issue rise.
Also I'll be getting a power fc next week.
Also I'll be getting a power fc next week.
Last edited by jayscoobs; 02-26-13 at 12:17 PM.
#19
always something to fix
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I would adjust your idle , that is WAY to low
Min I would do 850, 900 is better
Theres a screw on the left side of the throttle body, it's very small and requires a flat head. You have to unscrew the nut on it first, adjust, then re tighten
Min I would do 850, 900 is better
Theres a screw on the left side of the throttle body, it's very small and requires a flat head. You have to unscrew the nut on it first, adjust, then re tighten
#23
Full Member
had the EXACT same problems. Just like you ended up getting a PFC (I was hoping it might help diagnose the problem). Installed it last week, changed nothing, and now my idle is rock solid (and cold start issues have gone away). Wish I could explain it, maybe there was some problem with my stock ECU??? Hopefully you'll have the same experience and the PFC will 'just fix it'.
Justin
Justin
#25
TPS was out of spec. We realigned it and idle improved a lot. Still have a small issue which is quite weird. Pressing on the brake makes idle drop to a undesirable level. It will also dip down like that sometimes as we'll without the brake. If I blip the throttle it goes back at the intended set idle.
This is a fresh motor. Didnt do any of this during break in, I'm just out of my break in period.
This is a fresh motor. Didnt do any of this during break in, I'm just out of my break in period.