ideas for cool little fabrication projects
05-10-10, 10:27 PM
#1
ideas for cool little fabrication projects
So currently im a student at NJIT for Industrial Design and during the summer i wanna take my summer break and begin making my portfolio.
Since i think most my school work/assignments are crap and not portfolio worthy material i wanted to do some projects on my own.
so, since i have a lot of interest in the FD i was thinking of making some cool 1 of parts or prototypes of stuff... mostly simple stuff with no mechanics... just want to see what the community has for ideas for parts i could possibly attempt to make
im thinking of maybe making parts for the 8 as well... some ideas i have are diffuser? and maybe some eyelids for the 8? any suggestions? (keep in mind i havent graduated yet so i cant to that amazing and complex things lol)
Since i think most my school work/assignments are crap and not portfolio worthy material i wanted to do some projects on my own.
so, since i have a lot of interest in the FD i was thinking of making some cool 1 of parts or prototypes of stuff... mostly simple stuff with no mechanics... just want to see what the community has for ideas for parts i could possibly attempt to make
im thinking of maybe making parts for the 8 as well... some ideas i have are diffuser? and maybe some eyelids for the 8? any suggestions? (keep in mind i havent graduated yet so i cant to that amazing and complex things lol)
05-11-10, 05:05 AM
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rememebr to thank Supernaut if you use any
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05-11-10, 10:07 AM
#10
any ideas of pass foot rest? i like that idea!
example? like the rx8's? this is def doable but would it really look nice? i personally like the enginebay open...
thanks for the ideas should be interesting to attempt some of these!
05-11-10, 10:15 AM
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i dont know if its like that for all the models, but mine has an orrible plasitc undertray that covers the lower side of the engine, intercooler and radiator...i believe it is useful to prevent dirt and stones chipping your parts, but one that allows a better venting could be an improvement (mine is a one-piece with no venting at all)
Last edited by ShiftRX7; 05-11-10 at 10:18 AM.
05-11-10, 10:20 AM
#12
Candy for thought!!!
What do you have access to? (machines or materials???)
metal welding:
Oil tank that fits in the spare wheel well (for dry sump application) half or full spare well.
Fluid tank that fits the spare wheel well (for A.I.) half or full
Split tank (half oil/ half water) so you could have a remote oil and water tank in the spare wheel well
Fuel Cell that bolts up to factory fuel tank location (built in surge tank & able to hold 2x massive fuel pumps internally)
Tubular rear subframe to allow domestic rear end conversions (quaffe ATB diff.!!!)
Metal Machining/ CNC:
Billet Drop Spindles (that utalize domestic more readily available spindles that use more robust wheel bearings) with camber ajustment and possibly different rear brake mounting assembly inthe rear, so a BBK can actually be used without having to use the OEM rear caliper.
4 rotor E-Shaft
Metal Casting
High Flow sequental manifold for the twins
High Flow non sequental manifold for the twins
Upper intake manifold that allows for individual throttle bodies
A proper cast end tank for a v-mount that uses the twins (most end tanks look kinda wonky in my personal opinion for twin turbo v-mounts)
Metal Craft (existing media modification)
Functional modifiaction to an OEM hood that vents engine bay heat, yet doesn't excessivly increase drag (proper placement of vent in a low pressur area, or using design to creat a low pressure area)
Composite:
Underbody Aero (ones that are meant to work in series) that vent enginebay, transmission, break & differential heat. Make it strong enough that if a car were to go off the track or not be able to be towed, a fork lift would not destroy it when picking up the car.
Proper Polycarbonite rear hatch (one that actually fits worth a damn)
Dry Carbon (satin finish) headliner for base model/ R model FD's (no real reason, other than it would look cool... LOL
let's see what you can do!
metal welding:
Oil tank that fits in the spare wheel well (for dry sump application) half or full spare well.
Fluid tank that fits the spare wheel well (for A.I.) half or full
Split tank (half oil/ half water) so you could have a remote oil and water tank in the spare wheel well
Fuel Cell that bolts up to factory fuel tank location (built in surge tank & able to hold 2x massive fuel pumps internally)
Tubular rear subframe to allow domestic rear end conversions (quaffe ATB diff.!!!)
Metal Machining/ CNC:
Billet Drop Spindles (that utalize domestic more readily available spindles that use more robust wheel bearings) with camber ajustment and possibly different rear brake mounting assembly inthe rear, so a BBK can actually be used without having to use the OEM rear caliper.
4 rotor E-Shaft
Metal Casting
High Flow sequental manifold for the twins
High Flow non sequental manifold for the twins
Upper intake manifold that allows for individual throttle bodies
A proper cast end tank for a v-mount that uses the twins (most end tanks look kinda wonky in my personal opinion for twin turbo v-mounts)
Metal Craft (existing media modification)
Functional modifiaction to an OEM hood that vents engine bay heat, yet doesn't excessivly increase drag (proper placement of vent in a low pressur area, or using design to creat a low pressure area)
Composite:
Underbody Aero (ones that are meant to work in series) that vent enginebay, transmission, break & differential heat. Make it strong enough that if a car were to go off the track or not be able to be towed, a fork lift would not destroy it when picking up the car.
Proper Polycarbonite rear hatch (one that actually fits worth a damn)
Dry Carbon (satin finish) headliner for base model/ R model FD's (no real reason, other than it would look cool... LOL
let's see what you can do!
05-11-10, 11:06 AM
#13
i dont know if its like that for all the models, but mine has an orrible plasitc undertray that covers the lower side of the engine, intercooler and radiator...i believe it is useful to prevent dirt and stones chipping your parts, but one that allows a better venting could be an improvement (mine is a one-piece with no venting at all)
What do you have access to? (machines or materials???)
metal welding:
Oil tank that fits in the spare wheel well (for dry sump application) half or full spare well.
Fluid tank that fits the spare wheel well (for A.I.) half or full
Split tank (half oil/ half water) so you could have a remote oil and water tank in the spare wheel well
Fuel Cell that bolts up to factory fuel tank location (built in surge tank & able to hold 2x massive fuel pumps internally)
Tubular rear subframe to allow domestic rear end conversions (quaffe ATB diff.!!!)
Metal Machining/ CNC:
Billet Drop Spindles (that utalize domestic more readily available spindles that use more robust wheel bearings) with camber ajustment and possibly different rear brake mounting assembly inthe rear, so a BBK can actually be used without having to use the OEM rear caliper.
4 rotor E-Shaft
Metal Casting
High Flow sequental manifold for the twins
High Flow non sequental manifold for the twins
Upper intake manifold that allows for individual throttle bodies
A proper cast end tank for a v-mount that uses the twins (most end tanks look kinda wonky in my personal opinion for twin turbo v-mounts)
Metal Craft (existing media modification)
Functional modifiaction to an OEM hood that vents engine bay heat, yet doesn't excessivly increase drag (proper placement of vent in a low pressur area, or using design to creat a low pressure area)
Composite:
Underbody Aero (ones that are meant to work in series) that vent enginebay, transmission, break & differential heat. Make it strong enough that if a car were to go off the track or not be able to be towed, a fork lift would not destroy it when picking up the car.
Proper Polycarbonite rear hatch (one that actually fits worth a damn)
Dry Carbon (satin finish) headliner for base model/ R model FD's (no real reason, other than it would look cool... LOL
let's see what you can do!
metal welding:
Oil tank that fits in the spare wheel well (for dry sump application) half or full spare well.
Fluid tank that fits the spare wheel well (for A.I.) half or full
Split tank (half oil/ half water) so you could have a remote oil and water tank in the spare wheel well
Fuel Cell that bolts up to factory fuel tank location (built in surge tank & able to hold 2x massive fuel pumps internally)
Tubular rear subframe to allow domestic rear end conversions (quaffe ATB diff.!!!)
Metal Machining/ CNC:
Billet Drop Spindles (that utalize domestic more readily available spindles that use more robust wheel bearings) with camber ajustment and possibly different rear brake mounting assembly inthe rear, so a BBK can actually be used without having to use the OEM rear caliper.
4 rotor E-Shaft
Metal Casting
High Flow sequental manifold for the twins
High Flow non sequental manifold for the twins
Upper intake manifold that allows for individual throttle bodies
A proper cast end tank for a v-mount that uses the twins (most end tanks look kinda wonky in my personal opinion for twin turbo v-mounts)
Metal Craft (existing media modification)
Functional modifiaction to an OEM hood that vents engine bay heat, yet doesn't excessivly increase drag (proper placement of vent in a low pressur area, or using design to creat a low pressure area)
Composite:
Underbody Aero (ones that are meant to work in series) that vent enginebay, transmission, break & differential heat. Make it strong enough that if a car were to go off the track or not be able to be towed, a fork lift would not destroy it when picking up the car.
Proper Polycarbonite rear hatch (one that actually fits worth a damn)
Dry Carbon (satin finish) headliner for base model/ R model FD's (no real reason, other than it would look cool... LOL
let's see what you can do!
my school has a laser cutter, 3d printer, abs printer and cnc machine (not sure if it does metals) i prob wont have access to it during the summer so i was venturing with more like 1 off pieces
05-11-10, 11:25 AM
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Air bleed for primary fuel injectors
Here is a pic. They fit below the primary injectors into the iron. Notorious for getting brittle due to heat and breaking with shrapnel falling into the engine. It happened to me this past weekend. 
05-11-10, 12:19 PM
#17
You should make a laser cut Stats. Sheets for people for car shows.
This could be a neat way to make a couple bucks.
Make a little light box, that a piece of sheet aluminum or stainless steel can be slipped into.
Laser out what people want (throw in some neat little rotor designs or what nots)
make the box a back light so as to make it more of a classy display.
Start simple, work your way up.
PS you should make some type of bubble dispenser so you blow bubbles out of your exhaust. lol:
This could be a neat way to make a couple bucks.
Make a little light box, that a piece of sheet aluminum or stainless steel can be slipped into.
Laser out what people want (throw in some neat little rotor designs or what nots)
make the box a back light so as to make it more of a classy display.
Start simple, work your way up.
PS you should make some type of bubble dispenser so you blow bubbles out of your exhaust. lol:
05-11-10, 01:14 PM
#18
Hi bubbles,
Here is my suggestion for how to proceed with your plan. My understanding is that you want to fill up your portfolio for the future job hunt? Well here is how you can do that with little to no money out of pocket. Here's the steps:
1. Find a part that some people are interested in making, something within your design capability.
2. Find out your design parameters/requirements; material, longevity, safety testing, price points, etc... (someone reviewing your portfolio will want to see that you can do this)
3. Take measurements and CAD model the part. Then make manufacturing drawings
4. Create a prototype from the drawings. It does not need to be a functional piece but make sure that it is true to the drawings (a 3d print will work great if it keeps good tolerances)
5. Test fit
6. Finalize drawings.
7. Send out drawings to local manufacturing companies and get prices for one-offs and various lot sizes. (sometimes they may even do a prototype piece for free).
8. Once you have all of this accomplished let the interested parties know how much money/time it will take to make them.
9. Document everything you did to make the product. And, if you actually find a buyer, take a picture of the product for your portfolio before you send it out.
I wouldn't try to make any money this way because you start to run into some legal issues (though you are a student and may be somewhat protected by that fact). But, I would not attempt to design anything that was a critical system to a vehicle due to liability. But if you are creating cosmetic pieces or parts for close friends you should be okay. Doing things this way you are only spending your time and minimal $ for your mock-up and can still get a functional piece in the end on someone else's dollar (they wont mind cause you did all the design work for free).
Also, companies will be much more interested in you making set of drawings that is good enough to send to a shop than any hand fab work you might be able to accomplish.
Just my two cents, let me know if you have any questions about any of the steps. btw, what CAD software does your school use?
Here is my suggestion for how to proceed with your plan. My understanding is that you want to fill up your portfolio for the future job hunt? Well here is how you can do that with little to no money out of pocket. Here's the steps:
1. Find a part that some people are interested in making, something within your design capability.
2. Find out your design parameters/requirements; material, longevity, safety testing, price points, etc... (someone reviewing your portfolio will want to see that you can do this)
3. Take measurements and CAD model the part. Then make manufacturing drawings
4. Create a prototype from the drawings. It does not need to be a functional piece but make sure that it is true to the drawings (a 3d print will work great if it keeps good tolerances)
5. Test fit
6. Finalize drawings.
7. Send out drawings to local manufacturing companies and get prices for one-offs and various lot sizes. (sometimes they may even do a prototype piece for free).
8. Once you have all of this accomplished let the interested parties know how much money/time it will take to make them.
9. Document everything you did to make the product. And, if you actually find a buyer, take a picture of the product for your portfolio before you send it out.
I wouldn't try to make any money this way because you start to run into some legal issues (though you are a student and may be somewhat protected by that fact). But, I would not attempt to design anything that was a critical system to a vehicle due to liability. But if you are creating cosmetic pieces or parts for close friends you should be okay. Doing things this way you are only spending your time and minimal $ for your mock-up and can still get a functional piece in the end on someone else's dollar (they wont mind cause you did all the design work for free).
Also, companies will be much more interested in you making set of drawings that is good enough to send to a shop than any hand fab work you might be able to accomplish.
Just my two cents, let me know if you have any questions about any of the steps. btw, what CAD software does your school use?
Last edited by He's On Toroids; 05-11-10 at 01:20 PM.
05-11-10, 01:22 PM
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That is what mazdatrix has them listed as and what I assume what Mazda has them listed as. Go to the mazdatrix website and click on the fuel section and check it out.
05-11-10, 02:09 PM
#21
A battery platform for relocating a battery to the passenger bin. I custom made one (see my battery relocation writeup here) but would like something a little more sturdy.
Has some moving parts so would not be trivial but I'll bet you could sell quite a few of them.
Has some moving parts so would not be trivial but I'll bet you could sell quite a few of them.
05-11-10, 02:24 PM
#22
Real world experience... (the key to turn a degree into a career)
+48585848393948484
By going through all the steps (conception to delivery) of a part will show potential employers that you have encountered obsticles & accomplished a product.
One of the worse things a young engineer has to
come to terms with is SACRIFICE...
I'm not talking about the sacrifice you have to make by spending your time, effort & probably own money...
I'm talking about taking what you think is a perfect piece and sacrificing quality for the sake of manufacturing cost, labor intensity & marketability.
Showing that you have done all of this will be like having a year of extra experience, compared to someone that has the same degree, but only lab projects (in a non monitarily controlled invironmemt)
By going through all the steps (conception to delivery) of a part will show potential employers that you have encountered obsticles & accomplished a product.
One of the worse things a young engineer has to
come to terms with is SACRIFICE...
I'm not talking about the sacrifice you have to make by spending your time, effort & probably own money...
I'm talking about taking what you think is a perfect piece and sacrificing quality for the sake of manufacturing cost, labor intensity & marketability.
Showing that you have done all of this will be like having a year of extra experience, compared to someone that has the same degree, but only lab projects (in a non monitarily controlled invironmemt)
Hi bubbles,
Here is my suggestion for how to proceed with your plan. My understanding is that you want to fill up your portfolio for the future job hunt? Well here is how you can do that with little to no money out of pocket. Here's the steps:
1. Find a part that some people are interested in making, something within your design capability.
2. Find out your design parameters/requirements; material, longevity, safety testing, price points, etc... (someone reviewing your portfolio will want to see that you can do this)
3. Take measurements and CAD model the part. Then make manufacturing drawings
4. Create a prototype from the drawings. It does not need to be a functional piece but make sure that it is true to the drawings (a 3d print will work great if it keeps good tolerances)
5. Test fit
6. Finalize drawings.
7. Send out drawings to local manufacturing companies and get prices for one-offs and various lot sizes. (sometimes they may even do a prototype piece for free).
8. Once you have all of this accomplished let the interested parties know how much money/time it will take to make them.
9. Document everything you did to make the product. And, if you actually find a buyer, take a picture of the product for your portfolio before you send it out.
I wouldn't try to make any money this way because you start to run into some legal issues (though you are a student and may be somewhat protected by that fact). But, I would not attempt to design anything that was a critical system to a vehicle due to liability. But if you are creating cosmetic pieces or parts for close friends you should be okay. Doing things this way you are only spending your time and minimal $ for your mock-up and can still get a functional piece in the end on someone else's dollar (they wont mind cause you did all the design work for free).
Also, companies will be much more interested in you making set of drawings that is good enough to send to a shop than any hand fab work you might be able to accomplish.
Just my two cents, let me know if you have any questions about any of the steps. btw, what CAD software does your school use?
Here is my suggestion for how to proceed with your plan. My understanding is that you want to fill up your portfolio for the future job hunt? Well here is how you can do that with little to no money out of pocket. Here's the steps:
1. Find a part that some people are interested in making, something within your design capability.
2. Find out your design parameters/requirements; material, longevity, safety testing, price points, etc... (someone reviewing your portfolio will want to see that you can do this)
3. Take measurements and CAD model the part. Then make manufacturing drawings
4. Create a prototype from the drawings. It does not need to be a functional piece but make sure that it is true to the drawings (a 3d print will work great if it keeps good tolerances)
5. Test fit
6. Finalize drawings.
7. Send out drawings to local manufacturing companies and get prices for one-offs and various lot sizes. (sometimes they may even do a prototype piece for free).
8. Once you have all of this accomplished let the interested parties know how much money/time it will take to make them.
9. Document everything you did to make the product. And, if you actually find a buyer, take a picture of the product for your portfolio before you send it out.
I wouldn't try to make any money this way because you start to run into some legal issues (though you are a student and may be somewhat protected by that fact). But, I would not attempt to design anything that was a critical system to a vehicle due to liability. But if you are creating cosmetic pieces or parts for close friends you should be okay. Doing things this way you are only spending your time and minimal $ for your mock-up and can still get a functional piece in the end on someone else's dollar (they wont mind cause you did all the design work for free).
Also, companies will be much more interested in you making set of drawings that is good enough to send to a shop than any hand fab work you might be able to accomplish.
Just my two cents, let me know if you have any questions about any of the steps. btw, what CAD software does your school use?
. If I do find a ride and it doesn't rain I'll be there.
05-11-10, 08:08 PM
#24
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air bleed
I don't think it's that uncommon of a failure for these to break, a quick search in the forum turned up quite a few threads about it. Now that doesn't mean it is a common failure but it DOES happen.
05-11-10, 09:00 PM
#25
If you are so "opposed" to Mazdatrix you can't even look at something on their website then that's your choice. That does not change the fact that they're called air bleeds not injector diffusers apparently. Although to be honest I don't understand why they're called that and that injector diffusers sounds better and seems to make more sense.
I don't think it's that uncommon of a failure for these to break, a quick search in the forum turned up quite a few threads about it. Now that doesn't mean it is a common failure but it DOES happen.
I don't think it's that uncommon of a failure for these to break, a quick search in the forum turned up quite a few threads about it. Now that doesn't mean it is a common failure but it DOES happen.
Unfortnately, like other comapnies that have a following...
...They fell short.
That's why most stuff for my car, comes from guys like you and me (someone who wants something better than what they can get off the shelf)
+ custom stuff is way cooler
I don't need to go to another website to look at the same picture of a part, that I can already identify. Do you break out a dictionary to look at a picture of a rotor everytime somebody drops the word??? Probably not.
You didn't answer the question I asked...
Was your engine a rebuild. Most engine failures from a broken diffuser is on a block that has been torn into. Because someone pushed the little plastic piece in wrong, or didn't properly inspect it to see that it should have been replaced.
Things do happen, as I said "it is an uncommon cause of engine failure"