RR, that is great to know. I'll unplug the solenoid and am also looking into getting a profec B. When I get that I'll plug it in again.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Best Regards
Tahmid

 

Very lucky. Some day, when I take a vacation to the states or canada, i'll contact anyone of you guys and take a ride. See the true potential of this car. Hopefully with the coming years the quality of gas in Bangladesh will imporve.

 

I'll keep that in mind when I install the profec. And I'm pretty sure you guys will help me out then, if i get stuck.

Thanks Kevin

 

Yesterday, I finally opened up the engine which blew 1.5 years back. I bought my rx7 (back in feb 2004) knowing that it doesnot start. However due to the lack of knowledge,I thought it wouldn't be too diffucult to fix. (I had no idea about rotary engine and this was the only rx7).

A month and 5 to 6 stupid threads later (asking all kinds of stupid questions), I did a compression test and realized, upon reading up, that the engine was toast. This is the original engine which came with the car factory out.

I never opened that engine up, knowing that no one has the knowledge of rebuiling them in Bangladesh.

So I placed an order for a new engine with a company called Zimax. New housings and everything except the e-shaft and a couple of things. Have been diving the car since then. My mechanic installed the engine in less then a day(didnot even need the manual) all he told me was that one plug wont fit the other and all connections are marked everywhere.It fired right up. Have been driving the car for the last almost 1.5 years with RON 90 octane and synthetic mobil1.

So yesterday, i badly wanted to see what the inside of my blown motor looked like and i spoke to the previous owner, who told me exactly when this car started acting funny. He went on a 600kms drive from Dhaka to Chittagong. Constantly boosting (RON 90) and one his later half of the journey he realized that the car was acting funny. He drove back (i'm assuming with the blown engine)and drove the car for another 2000kms with the engine like that. (I fail to understand how).

Anyways sorry for the long post. Here are some pics I took.

Also another question is, I haven't watered my engine bay for the last 1.5 years. Now its really dirty. We dont have simple green or the likes in Bangladesh. I just bought a rapid degreaser (HAWKER, its australian) the other day. Can I use that and hose the engine?? Sorry about the question, but I'm really paranoid.

How do I clean my rear boot carpet and floor mat? Just wash them??

Tahmid

 

The server only shows a proxy error. I wanted to post this as a seperate topic. Anyways here are the pictures.

 

more pics....

 

some more....

 

engine bay and boot

 

What do the markings on the rotor mean? As in the letters S, B etc.

 

They're weight groupings, although I thought they used A, B, and C. When building a motor, the factory could use A and B rotors, or B and C rotors, but not A and C rotors. Just a cheap way to build a relatively balanced engine.

 

The S, I have no idea, it is of no consequence.

The japanese characters on each side of the rotor are for use in conjuction with a seal case, to identify the original position of each seal and spring for reassembly per the FSM.

The A, b, c, d, and e are weight ranges. For example an FD rotor is rated at 9.5lb. However, during the manufacturing process, variances occur. Since they knew this they wanted to identify these variances so they could control their use in the engine, they didnt want a 9.8lb rotor and a 9.2lb rotor together in the same engine. So an A is the heaviest variation of a particular model of rotor, while E is the lightest. This is why you try to stay within 1 letter with your rotors when building an engine...factory static balance.

Also, the large and small circles you see randomly drilled on the sides of the rotor, are factory dynamic balance holes. They remove material to attempt to get the rotor tips equally balanced. This is why no 2 rotors have the holes the same...because different amounts of material settled in different spots during the manufacturing process, and they had to go back and correct for this as best they could later.

 

Thanks for the clarification/extra detail!

 

Superb explanation. Thanks RR. I have noticed that both my rotors say B. That explains. I'll weigh mine later today. Just for the fun of it.

Also, how do I clean my engine bay. Havent watered it for 1.5 years. I dont have simple green or the like in Bangladesh. Ever heard of HAWKER degreaser?? Can I use that? And, how do I clean my boot carpet?? Brushing doesnot help that much.
Any ideas?? Can I just wash it?

Best Regards
Tahmid

Thanks Rynberg and RR.

 

hey tahmid!!

Just chuck the carpet into the washing machine if it fits and run it on low. Some dynamo etc should help. Alternatively if you have a steam cleaner you could just use that.

Very important is to keep your intakes/alternator dry. Cover them up with a plastic bag. Do it when the car is warm. If you have a steam cleaner use it on the walls. You'll see grease melt off. Hope everything is ok matey!!

 

Thanks Dev. Dev, what the hell is a steam cleaner?? The carpet I doubt whether it'll fit in the washing machine. I'll try though.

Dev, e-mail me your mobile number. Have you changed it??

 

same as before but to reconfirm

+60 19 4566703
+60 12 5807597

 

Thanks mate. I'll call you soon. And best regards to you and your wife.

 

Rynberg, RR, Kyle where are you??!!Are these the two connections? Please kindly see the picture. The one on the right has a white dot. I want to disconnect BOTH the precontrol and wastegate solenoid till my boost controller is here.

Also does anyone know what exhaust this is?

 

just a little update. My parts supplier already shipped my goods. Here is a picture of the boost controller and the Mazdaspeed AST.

How easy is this boost controller to hook up? You guys have to help me out. I know there is a detailed thread about the Spec II EBC, however since I know doing it myself would be a whole new ball game, you guys have to give me tips and help me through the way.

Next plan is to buy the FC thermoswitch (Dale). Water injection is still on hold.

I'll post detailed pictures once I get the good in hand. The Mazdaspeed AST should be of good quality.

 

Just a little followup. I bought the FC thermoswicth from Japan. It'll be here in a couple of days along with my boost controller, Mazdaspeed AST, plugs, no pressure cap (Just imagine how long it took to get these small parts from Japan, can't help it though my friend there is extremely busy with his work). Just a few reliablity mods, but it brings me great happiness just to little things to my 7. I should be done except the water temp gauge.

A friend of mine is getting LUCAS race gas. I have no idea about it. I'll try 10psi for the first time in my car in a long stretch . My friend is running his WRX at 18psi with toulene. It's fast!!

 

A couple of pictures of my engine suppliers RX7.

 

a few more....