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I WANT to run 7psi of boost......

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Old 05-16-05 | 03:50 AM
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I just received a phone call from the chemical company. They say that they sell industrial toluene. Tk.95 per liter. That is $1.53/liter (i.e. $5.80/gallon US style). They import it in drums of 205 liters each out of Singapore.

Now the question is, the toluene that most people mix, is it the refined toluene or it is the industrial toluene?? Need some information about this. Thanks.
Old 05-16-05 | 05:11 AM
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most modern cars can run on lower octane because they retard the timing due to knock. I know my friends GTO can run on all sorts of diff fuels and changes the power it makes accordingly with the knock values.

pistons can take more abuse than rotaries too
Old 05-16-05 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Node
most modern cars can run on lower octane because they retard the timing due to knock. I know my friends GTO can run on all sorts of diff fuels and changes the power it makes accordingly with the knock values.

pistons can take more abuse than rotaries too
I know, however, i dont want to take chances.
Old 05-16-05 | 02:10 PM
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Here's how that system works. You have a wastegate actuator on the turbo itself, with a 7psi spring in it. ON a simple setup, pressure from the compressor goes into this actuator, and when that pressure reaches 7psi, the wastegate opens, and slows down the turbo and lowers boost...therefore it's automatically self adjusting and self operating.

ON this car, our WG actuator has 2 nipples...one leading from the compressor as described above, and one going back out to the wastegate solenoid. This is one of the green ones on the front of the LIM. This is a duty controlled solenoid, meaning the computer switches it open and shut quickly depending on boost input from the map sensor. This is a common way to raise boost, and in fact this is basically just a factory designed, non adjustable electronic boost controller.

The way it works is that air from the compressor goes into the common chamber of the WG actuator. Normally it'd fill that chamber up and push the 7psi spring open, and maintain boost there. But, the ecu is controlling the WG solenoid, and the ecu wants to push boost up to 10. So, the ECU opens the WG solenoid up, letting some of the air flow back OUT of the common chamber, to the solenoid, and eventually back out to atmosphere. IT's a very small boost leak. The common chamber in the WG actuator loses some pressure, and even though teh compressor is seeing 10psi, the wastegate only sees 7 because the solenoid is venting 3psi out. This is how the stock system pushes 10psi on a 7psi spring.

You might wonder why the 10psi of air at the compressor doesnt move into the WG actuator as fast as the WG solenoid lets it out? That's why a restrictor pill is there...to slow down how fast that air gets into the WG actuator. So, because of the pill, it takes longer for air to get into the WG actuator, than it does for the solenoid to let it out. Therefore the soenoid can lower pressure at the WG actuator whenever it wants.

This is also how other ecu's like peter farrell and pfc are able to raise the car's boost levels without a boost controller...they control the duty signal of the WG solenoid, to let even more air out, and raise boost more.
Old 05-16-05 | 02:20 PM
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I may have missed something here, but it seems to me that the easy way to consistently get 7 psi of boost is just to plug (put a pill with no hole in the hose) the line from the WG actuator to the WG solenoid just past the actuator. That will eliminate the effect of the solenoid, and be essentially the same as running with no pill in the line from the Y-pipe to the WG actuator.
Old 05-16-05 | 02:43 PM
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Or, for those who dont want to take off their intake hoses and box to get to the line and pill, just unplug the WG solenoid, which is right on top of the engine? That way you can go between 7 and 10psi by simply popping the hood and plugging/unplugging one connector. or perhaps I'm oversimplifying things?
Old 05-16-05 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Or, for those who dont want to take off their intake hoses and box to get to the line and pill, just unplug the WG solenoid, which is right on top of the engine? That way you can go between 7 and 10psi by simply popping the hood and plugging/unplugging one connector. or perhaps I'm oversimplifying things?
IIRC, won't that throw a CEL and a code?
Old 05-16-05 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
IIRC, won't that throw a CEL and a code?

No.
Old 05-16-05 | 02:59 PM
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No, only the square plug solenoids do that. You might get a code if you PULL codes, but you'll never get a CEL.
Old 05-16-05 | 03:06 PM
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If you want to have more than the minimum boost that you would get from unplugging the solenoids or blocking their vacuum lines to the actuators, you could insert pills of varying orifice sizes in the solenoid vacuum lines to tune to the desired boost levels.
Old 05-17-05 | 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Or, for those who dont want to take off their intake hoses and box to get to the line and pill, just unplug the WG solenoid, which is right on top of the engine? That way you can go between 7 and 10psi by simply popping the hood and plugging/unplugging one connector. or perhaps I'm oversimplifying things?

Thanks. RR. Thats the kind of simplification i needed basically. I dont want to run more then 7psi. Period.

Also what are your thoughts about cooling mist. You seemed to escape that question. Cant figure out how to put the wink icon here.

Best Regards
Tahmid
Old 05-17-05 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
No, only the square plug solenoids do that. You might get a code if you PULL codes, but you'll never get a CEL.
Dont have the CEL. 1998 model. So no worries. Have made the poor man's code puller.
Old 05-17-05 | 01:46 AM
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I havent tried WI yet, but plan to run a setup on my car later on. I don't see any real downsides to it, other than a bit of added complexity to the car as a whole.
Old 05-17-05 | 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by rs125
bloody hell we get 98 over here in the uk...

****...98 would put me at 500 to the wheels with my new setup. We have 93
Old 05-17-05 | 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
I havent tried WI yet, but plan to run a setup on my car later on. I don't see any real downsides to it, other than a bit of added complexity to the car as a whole.
Do you think it will help me, under the circumstances I have stated earlier??
Old 05-17-05 | 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by iceman4357
****...98 would put me at 500 to the wheels with my new setup. We have 93
They get 98 RON. You get 93 RON+MON/2. Just to clarify.
Old 05-17-05 | 12:29 PM
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I don't think it'll hurt

But, it won't make you bulletproof, either.
Old 05-19-05 | 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
I don't think it'll hurt

But, it won't make you bulletproof, either.
If it wont hurt, I'm getting one as a band aid. I know it wont make me bulletproof. Is there ANY rotary engine that is bullet proof? (how the hell do I put the wink here??) Does anyone have pics of the wastegate solenoid?

Probably the 1st person in the forum to ask about how to reduce boost. Imagine owning an rx7 and you cant drive it to its potential?? Its torture.

Thanks a lot RR for helping me out.
Old 05-19-05 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tahmid
Thanks. RR. Thats the kind of simplification i needed basically. I dont want to run more then 7psi. Period.

Also what are your thoughts about cooling mist. You seemed to escape that question. Cant figure out how to put the wink icon here.

Best Regards
Tahmid
Pulling the wg solenoid plug, or plugging the vent hose to that solenoid, would place boost control directly at the actuator. The US actuators start opening on a bench test at about 7 psi, but will be fully open at about 11 psi or so. I think holding 7 could be difficult, unless you shift/shim the actuator mount or add an external spring to help open the actual wg early.

on octane: euro rating method (RON) is about 4 points higher than US method (aki), for same tank of gas.

98 euro = 94 US
91 euro = 87 US
Old 05-20-05 | 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by KevinK2
Pulling the wg solenoid plug, or plugging the vent hose to that solenoid, would place boost control directly at the actuator. The US actuators start opening on a bench test at about 7 psi, but will be fully open at about 11 psi or so. I think holding 7 could be difficult, unless you shift/shim the actuator mount or add an external spring to help open the actual wg early.

on octane: euro rating method (RON) is about 4 points higher than US method (aki), for same tank of gas.

98 euro = 94 US
91 euro = 87 US
Will keep that in mind. Thanks. Thats why in the last couple of days, I'm looking into buying a boost controller.( Profec S)

Thanks. Love this forum. I can learn a lot from here.

Best Regards
Tahmid
Old 05-20-05 | 03:44 AM
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I run full exhaust/full nonsequential cars with the WG actuator only and the thing won't ever even creep over 8. The WG has a 7 pound spring, and bottom line, at 7 pounds that baby is open all the way.
Old 05-20-05 | 05:31 AM
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Tahmid dude,

Hope all goes well mate.
Old 05-20-05 | 09:27 AM
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Geez, I consider myself lucky to get 94 octane in Canada !
Old 05-20-05 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by tahmid
Will keep that in mind. Thanks. Thats why in the last couple of days, I'm looking into buying a boost controller.( Profec S)

Thanks. Love this forum. I can learn a lot from here.

Best Regards
Tahmid
With a profec, you can't go below the basic actuator setting. But you may get quicker response (esp with NS) at the basic actuator setting. It does require a hose directly from the compressor outlet, with no restrictor/pill. You may need to drill out an internal restriction, if using the current nipple for the wg.
Old 05-20-05 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by fd3s7007
Tahmid dude,

Hope all goes well mate.

Dev,how are you? Its been a while. I tried calling you a couple of times. Did you change your mobile number or something?? Imran was trying to reach you as well.

Thanks mate. GOD willing everything will be alright.



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