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I think I may have blown an apex seal...

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Old 02-24-05, 06:11 PM
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I think I may have blown an apex seal...

One of my rotors isnt fireing... one of them is reading 150psi and the other is reading 50. This sucks so ******* bad, and I dont know what to do or who to take it to or how to fix it. Sorry for my rant, Im just really depressed right now.

EDIT: sorry about the double post, my browser was freaking out.

Last edited by Xearo_FD3S; 02-24-05 at 06:21 PM.
Old 02-24-05, 06:26 PM
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is that with a real rotary compression tester???

see a lil too low for the rear rotor

but if its true nubers then u will need to source urself a new motor brotha

cant be lieve your cym with such low mileage blow already

racing it???

sux, GL mang
Old 02-24-05, 06:31 PM
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No I wasnt racnig it... I just dont understand why this could happen and at such low mileage, Im flabbergasted!
Old 02-24-05, 06:32 PM
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If your signature is correct, it is very possible that you blew an apex seal. The DP, CB, and Y-pipe combination could easily raise your boost to unsafe levels - especially in cold weather (don't know what the weather is like right now in Sac.)
Old 02-24-05, 06:41 PM
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Yes my sig is correct... Thats what people have been saying, but when I did install the DP and Y pipe no one, even here thought it was too big of a deal. I know some people with FD's that have the same mods as me and they have had their cars run fine.... But thats no excuse, im just looking into getting it rebuilt right now.
Old 02-24-05, 06:50 PM
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That's assuming you have a boost gauge to be sure the boost is still near the 10-8-10 pattern. I notice with the same mods that I can hit 12psi in cool weather - I've not been driving it hard since I noticed that happening. I'll have to add an manual or electronic boost controller if it continues.

Just change the oil and sparkplugs on the Ferrari yourself and use the money saved to get it rebuilt

(I'm not trying to be a dick, but it's sorta true)

[edit]: there should be 3 readings per rotor. If you blew an apex seal then one of the 3 numbers on the low rotor will be different. Using a standard tester, you'll have to read the jumping needle.

I suggest finding a local rotary shop and having them check it out.

Last edited by dgeesaman; 02-24-05 at 06:58 PM.
Old 02-24-05, 06:53 PM
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Yeah, the 3 mod rule says you should be safe - but I like many others here believe that the 3 mod rule is incorrect. It really should be the 10 PSI rule. Tests show that the ECU can really support just about everything as long as boost stays at or below 10 PSI.

A boost gauge should have been your first purchase. Maybe the fact that your car has so few miles on it (fresh turbos) caused the 3 mods that you chose to raise boost to unsafe levels. That is, assuming that your engine is really blown. It may not be. Get the compression checked by a rotary specialist to make sure. Hopefully something else is causing your problems.

*edit* one more question - why the FCD? Maybe without it you might still be running.

Last edited by novadan67; 02-24-05 at 07:04 PM.
Old 02-24-05, 07:01 PM
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yup it sucks and happens all the time, which is why people on the forum try to warn the newcomers of the dangers. most dont heed the warning, and end up like you and I.

I got my new engine from rx7store.net, ive got their stage 2 setup and no problems thus far. The cost to get an engine replaced is what really killed me, so i ended up doing mine myself.

good luck to you!
Old 02-24-05, 07:45 PM
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damn sorry to hear that if u did really blow ur apex seal

wen i had my car, i had the same mods as u did with intake as well and i ran fine without a boost controller. hope everything goes well 2 get it running again
Old 02-24-05, 07:59 PM
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The mechanics had another theory that my wastegate was not opening and that it may be stuck. Tomorrow I am going to spend all day at the shop and try to get this thing figured out. Wish me luck...
Old 02-24-05, 11:01 PM
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The 3 mod rule evolved into lore from a GUESS about how much the stock fuel system can feed. The fact is that there are no rules, because each FD has its own rules. Operating parameters (boost, AFR, injector duty, EGT...etc.) need to be monitoerd to make sure it your FD is running safely.
Old 02-24-05, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by technonovice
The 3 mod rule evolved into lore from a GUESS about how much the stock fuel system can feed. The fact is that there are no rules, because each FD has its own rules. Operating parameters (boost, AFR, injector duty, EGT...etc.) need to be monitoerd to make sure it your FD is running safely.
Those mods do effect volumetric efficiancy and have been attributed to spikes and surges.
Old 02-24-05, 11:20 PM
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Thumbs down

Ho.. dude... I just saw this car, a CYM with 16k on the odm... It WAS a true collectors car. What a waste...
Old 02-25-05, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Gadd
Ho.. dude... I just saw this car, a CYM with 16k on the odm... It WAS a true collectors car. What a waste...

its a rotary and he lost an apex seal, whats the waste?
Old 02-25-05, 12:21 AM
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TRINGLS

 
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I feel your pain, I just got my motor out today... havent been able to drive my car since Nov when I started my tranny swap, except for the 20 minute run before the motor blew. I to lost a rear apex seal -- Mine was due to fuel filter though on a motor with only 20k on it.

Good luck to you I hope things work out and she comes back better than new! Look into a M2 ECU if you want to only MILDLY mod and be SAFE... also include in your next purchase a boost guage, it saved me a couple times.

~Kris
Old 02-25-05, 01:03 AM
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Not sure who you're considering for the work but I hear good things about the dude in Pleasanton....I'll just leave it at that......good luck!!.
Old 02-25-05, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Xearo_FD3S
Yes my sig is correct... Thats what people have been saying, but when I did install the DP and Y pipe no one, even here thought it was too big of a deal. I know some people with FD's that have the same mods as me and they have had their cars run fine.... But thats no excuse, im just looking into getting it rebuilt right now.
I had those same mods, DP, CB and y-pipe and had spiking to 14psi (only 1-2 times). I changed the WG pill to a size slightly larger and had no spiking.

Bring the car to me and I'll put a motor in it with the care required for such a nice low mileage car. See sig for resume'.
Old 02-25-05, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by turbojeff
Bring the car to me and I'll put a motor in it with the care required for such a nice low mileage car. See sig for resume'.
^ Hands of God...
Old 02-25-05, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by turbojeff

Bring the car to me and I'll put a motor in it with the care required for such a nice low mileage car. See sig for resume'.

word, that is an offer no one could refuse
Old 02-25-05, 10:35 AM
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Yea I pmed him about it.
Old 02-25-05, 12:20 PM
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Sucks bro, I hope that it isn't your motor. I mean you just intalled the DP and CB less than a week ago.

http://64.9.213.132/rx7club.com/foru...d.php?t=397132
Old 02-25-05, 01:45 PM
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Yea it sucks. Im having my good friend that owns a import shop replace my apex seals for me, so we will probably find out what really went wrong when i get them replaced/. Just wish me luck
Old 02-25-05, 08:34 PM
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Apex seals aren't the only reason a motor can lose compression. My recent experiences has shown me there are several things that can cause you to lose compression. In my case it was do to carbon, it got the side seals stuck into the rotor and created low compression. I lucked out almost everything in the engine was good. The problem is I had to break it open, and at that point you might as well just give it a good rebuild.
Old 02-25-05, 11:15 PM
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Yea I poured a little bit of automatic transmission fluid in the motor via the sparkplug hole to see if it could get the seals unstuck. Seemed to help a lot but not enough, so my seals may not be fucked after all.
Old 02-25-05, 11:23 PM
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If you get carbon lock put the car into 5th gear and push it backwards, it helps a lot. Well for me it did.


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