Wow that is the greatest post on oil ever.

And i have to take that guys word for it because of the actual cars these people are driving

 

there was actually a good thread about oil not too long ago where we discussed the Ferrarichat article. The article is great with good info, but it's also specific to piston engines. The biggest difference that we'll see is that the gears in the rotary engine requires a stronger shear resistance than many of the 0w oils provide.

I've considered and heard good results from running a motorcycle synthetic oil in our cars for that same shear resistance reason. The bike oils are formulated to work through the transmission which would definately require the same shear characteristics that our gears would. I may actually give it a try this summer.

Also don't forget that our cars suffer from fuel dillution very quickly which will kill just about any oil, which is why we require such short change intervals. I know that Dave has talked about doing test on the BioSyn oils that supposedly helped with that issue on DI cars, and I'm looking forward to the results.

Unfortunately I think that in the end, as long as you're changing your oil at proper/reasonable intervals (2K for me) then it's going to be pretty hard to have an oil related failure if you're buying good stuff. which negates the need for countless threads of discussion.

If you're looking for more, go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and spend your next few months reading.

 

On my old FC I was running 15w-50 as recommended by the engine builder. I started running the 0w-40 in my FD after reading various articles about it such as the one mentioned above. My biggest concern was start-up. Since they claim that that is the hardest time on the engine. Is it the same for rotaries? Also from that article, it pretty much says that at normal operating temperature, all the oils are about the same. My logic was why put something in that will give to wear at startup and not make a significant difference at regular operating temperatures?

 

To answer the original question, I would change the oil apperently other additives are the worst thing you can to to the specially crafted factory formulation.

 

And now its sunny and about 65 degress outside

 

That logic is exactly why I've been thinking about those extended viscosity oils still.

It's a tradeoff, obviously. As with anything, UOAs are the true and best test.

Dave