so... since i am very smart. I went to an autocrossing school today and between the morning runs i bought x2 10 lb ice bags and placed them on top of the upper intake and y pype (99 SPEC) one to cool the car down... I went to race and I had no boost on the primary turbo, the secondary turbo works just fine and or power after 4.5k RPMS... anything below 4.5k rpms is like driving a 50hp lawnmower. I also found that when i backed up the water that had drained on the floor from the ice melting had green/purple colors in it... Im guessing a fuel leak some place do you guys agree? Anyways, my main concern is how do i check foe engine codes with the power fc?

These are the sensors/switches lit:
ELD, FPD, APR, CCN, NTR at idle with the ebrake on.

P.S. The car idles the same as it did before- pretty good at about 870 rpms

Could it be that the water got somewhere it wasent supoosed too and literatly fried my harness or something going to the primary turbo. does someone have a solenoid, air hose anything diagram that tells me where to start my search for lost boost?

 

Good chance you got water somewhere it should not have gone. I would let it dry out (probably overnight) with the hood open, and see if the problem goes away by itself.

 

one of the solenoids might of shorted out , chech and make sure that all the hoses are plugged in

 

typically when you have no primary boost it's either leaking (should hear the leak) or it's the charge control actuator not doing it's job. So start the car and see if the rod on the actuator is pulled in if not there's your problem. Probably knocked a vac hose off or there's a problem with the charge control solenoid or just a coincidence and the charge control actuator died.

If you have primary boost after a quick stab and release of the throttle it's probably the check value going to the vacuum chamber leaking.

 

The rod on the actuator went in as soon as I started the car. I have let it rest for 24 hrs. Ill update with the results.

Thank you everyone.

 

Okay so no change... I tried first second and third gear up to 4k rpms and the best I got according to the power FC was .08 kg/cm2 of boost I think I do hear a leak but I'm not sure. Wouldn't the actuator stop working if there was a leak with any of the vacuum lines or is that not the case...

P.s. I do have to admit that when I was racing and pushing the gas to the floor repeatedly I did feel like something was either sticking or getting stuck...

 

Do you get full boost at the cross over/4500 rpms and stays full to redline

 

I just tested it. In first and second gear at around 4600 rpms it's off like a rocket with .82 kg/cm2 or 11.5 psi of boost all the way to redline... I changed a few check valves and nothing no change...

 

Had something like this happen to me when I had my twin turbo set up it was a vacuum hose. Took it to a mechanic who had some experience with fds and fixed it by clapping the vacuum hose with a zip tie. Dont know if this will help but that was what happened to me. Does not hurt to check. The noise you hear could also be a vacuum hose leak.

 

Thank you... Time to pull the upper manifold out I suppose...

Alex

 

It's most likely going to be something that ice bag affected, or it's something that just coincidentally happened.

Make sure your throttle is fully opening and isn't being blocked by a melted piece of ice bag or something. Check the vacuum lines on the rear of the Y-pipe and make sure they're well on there.

It's going to be something simple when you find it.

Dale

 

Does anybody think that the rapid cooling from a race to straight ice might have weakened something? Just a thought.

 

the 99 spec y pipe looks fine... all the connectors are on there. maybe its something im not seen around the y pipe. i still havent removed the upper intake cuz its a painbut will see...

 

The colors in the water might just be from where it sat between the intake and engine, lots of space there, people have lost children it there. I would check the hoses from the turbo control solenoid set, right down to the turbos (to the hard lines)

 

Not possible with just a sack of ice. Dry ice, maybe.

The ice is the loser in this battle, there's so much heat it's just melting away.

I don't think at this point it will be water shorting something out. The heat of the engine bay would have evaporated that off by now.

Moral of the story is a bag of ice on the intake manifold isn't really going to gain you much and can just cause hassle .

The car is most likely stuck in sequential mode, it's acting like part of the sequential system has switched on. There's tons of tests you can do with this, just test it out and find what messed up. You probably won't even need to pull the UIM for anything, unless it's a solenoid under there that is acting up and just happened to mess up at the same time as the ice incident.

Dale

 

check the hoses and the check valve going to the vac tank

check the crv and hose going to it

check the crv solenoid

check anything that can allow the primary boost to vent

 

Ok so so far... I have changed the check valve (green and white) right next to the big black air chamber that sits in front of the upper intake manifold. I have changed both the oem BOV and the other brown valve coming off the y pipe... I guess I can try changing the other check valve Green and white. I also changed the two green solenoid s attached to the upper intake manifold with 4 vaccumm lines attached to them.... Nothing. I did notice that when I was removing the brown valves by the y pipe I heard a pssshhh sound as if it was holding air pressure. Same thing happened when I change the check valve. Also I don't hear the BOV working when I drive anymore... Letting the air out. So in other words I feel like the air is getting trapped somewhere...?

 

Its hard to believe a ice pack would mess up the primary turbo. Something must've broke or loosened

 

It HAS BEEN FIXED! since im lazy i did not want to look under the car... well you know how i said i felt like something was sticking.... well it was the wastegate skiny arm from the big fat actuator closest to the flap on the turbo manifold. It had come loose so the flap was open the whole time.... im going to home deport to buy one of those tiny flat rings so the thing wont come out again...

 

Haha, good find! The C-clip is available new from Mazda for a VERY reasonable amount, like a buck or less. While the hardware store one will get you going, I'd get a new Mazda part as it will fit better and can take the heat long term.

Order a few of them so you'll have one handy if you lose one in the future.

Dale

 

will do Dale thanx!

 

NICE, one of us should of thought of that one I'm disappointed in the us forum members hehe