krayon808

**** it was the coolant seal

krayon808

hot much would it cost to change that and what is involved

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Unfortunately, this question has the same answer as the question 'How much does it cost to rebuild an engine?' With R&R, $5k+ typically. If you do the R&R yourself and send the engine out for a rebuild (or get a REMAN from Mazda), about half that. Other miscellaneous gaskets and hoses that should probably be replaced when you have the engine out may add up to another $1k or so.

ATLGT

iTrader: (1)

What did you do to check to see if it was the seal? Just making sure that you are not jumping to conclusions.

krayon808

well i checked all the hoses changed the thermostat and got a alum air separator tank when i drive for a short time the car runs good no over heating, but the coolant just starts pooring out the overfill, and when i drive fast and pound it and off the car the coolant just shoots out the overfill, can think of anything else.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

it's time for you to pressure test your system.

CantGoStraight

Can't say you don't learn something new everyday................sure would like to know how this happens at the TB !!!! ?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Me too as that would mean there is a coolant access directly to the intake path (which would also mean the opposite that you are leaking cooling into your intake stream). Doesn't make sense to me at all.

CantGoStraight

LOL. I knew there was a reason to pull the thermal wax unit off that TB.........damn that thingy.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yea, it might make sense if there was a water jacket for the TB, but there isn't.

krayon808

i know i didnt pressure teat the system yet sorry, but i had one more question. how come when i run the heater then the car runs fine...... no over heating and no over flowing?????

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

When you run the heater, the cooling fans come on.

krayon808

ya so how does that stop the coolant from over flowing if it is the coolant seal???

ajbjorn

how fast does it overflow cause b4 my engine popped it would run for about 45 min of light throttle driving b4 anything then if you got on it it would start overheating. did this for prolly 3-4K then one day after bringing it home hot when I started it next it ran shakey and puffed thick white smoke. coolant seal had a crack in it

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Most likely it will just delay the overflow happening.

Do a pressure test and go from there.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

you never really clarified if the gaugue was half way up the or 3/4 up. (all you said that it goes half way to the H). Anyway, if you are truly overheating when the car is at load that is not a good sign at all.

I am not a heater expert but my lame understanding is that the "heater" get's it's heat from the engine. So when you turn on the heater you are essentially dissipating that heat quicker.

Because you are not overheating anymore.

Marcel Burkett

YOUR COOLANT SEALS ARE SHOT !!!!!! , I experienced the same thing a little while ago after overheating badly and not knowing it . the symtoms I saw were the same , normal temps , even at idle , then suddenly it would shoot up to 220 + , constant overflowing of the coolant bottle and lots of bubbles coming out the fill neck.
My checks were ...............
1. filled it and started it up , stick my finger in the filler hole for a little while , while the water is still cold of course ! after removing my finger the water shot about 20 feet into the air , this suggests that the system is under a lot of pressure way before it heats up.
2 . Filled it up again , started it up and let it puke ! I then took a lighter and lit it at the open filler neck ! guess what there was a nice blue flame burning on the filler neck like a low pressure tourch ! , this suggests that some king of combustable gas is present (gasoline?)
3. last one I did was to fill it back up , start it up , let it puke and heat up (overheat) then shut it down and allow it to sit overnight . I then pulled the plugs the next day and guess what ? WATER ! and lots of it , if you turn it by hand you'll be shocked to see just how much was in there !
Don't deny it , the sooner you deal with it the sooner you can get back to enjoying your car !

RotaR aRT

iTrader: (1)

Wow thats alot of good info. my denial on my coolant problem started on saturday and from what the title says i didnt think i would find my possible answer here. This problems been bugging me since saturday when i started up my car in the mornin. Hearing that buzzer going off for the first time ever is a nerve wrecker. time for more troubleshooting

RotaR aRT

iTrader: (1)

well i flushed my coolant system with prestone super flush and it worked havent seen any problems yet. gl with your problem. mine was just like what you posted if it helps any.

Rotary4tw

iTrader: (3)

I think these are all good tests, good insight Marcel!

The first one is very good, because normally the only time there is expansion in the coolant system, it's when the temperature of the coolant rises. (Direct relationship between temp. of your coolant, and the volume/expansion of coolant.) If the coolant is expanding before it's heated up, you know the expansion is due to another variable, and the only likely variable is the combustion that would be over-pressurizing the coolant system.

The 2nd test is just flat out ballsy, but shows the same facts.

3rd test is also viable and has been discussed before.

Do a pressure test first, and then try some of these if you need more evidence to justify tearing into the engine. Between the pressure test, and the three listed here, you should know with 95% certainty if your o-ring is compromised.

I agree though, sounds like the o-ring seal is compromised. Good luck!

-R4tw