Guys I have been hearing a very weird sound while my car is ideling both inside the car and outside of it, the sound is exactly that of a trains wheels on the rail way tracks its like click click clickclick click click clickclick exactly like that, what the hell could it be!!!!! if i put my ear down underneath the car it sounds like this noise is coming near the middle of the car, i dont hear the sound at all in the engine bay though when i have the hood up, but when i am inside the car the sound is prominant in the dash of the car where the ac button is and the stereo deck area etc. Can anybody diagnose what could possibly be causing this noise?

 

It's the ticking of the rotary timebomb................jk

 

rock in a heat shield?

FRUCK man, you got me...

Put it up in the air and start checking...

By air I mean a lift, not your garage, we dont want to lose you bro..

Jason

 

sounds like an exhaust leak

 

I'll bet u have an after market exhaust. And the pipe leading into the muffler is sitting against the diff housing. I'll give u 2 guesses on where that noise is from.

 

i have seen many down pipes that echo with the exhaust beat. i can hear it in my car, and thought that it was an exhaust leak. *however*, you might have a more 'machanically' based issue or sound, and if it sounds like it is coming from the dash area, i tcould have something to do with the flywheel or the cover sheild for it.

 

My car used to tick after I installed the downpipe. I think it was one of the exhaust doors ticking against its seat. It seems the sound might have been muffled or the vibrations damped by the heavy pre-cat before. I thought it was an exhaust leak for a while, but I eventually ruled that out.

Do you have a light flywheel? Does the sound go away when the clutch pedal is pushed in? If so, it might be noise from the tranny.

-Max

 

i think it could be the cover shield for the flywheel, is it costly to repair? i mean i have warranty for my clutch and flywheel that mazda machined for me last november, if it is the flywheel making the noise it will be covered i think with the warranty. But if its the flywheel would it make noise at idle? because i get the noise when i'am parked

 

bump

 

my car ticks bad especally when i have the ac on. it seems to come from the middle and the noise goes away if i push in the clutch. i just got a new clutch and flywheel and it came with a throughout bearing. people keep telling me its my throughout bearing. my car made the noise before i got the clutch and flywheel installed. i have no clue what it is

 

guys an update on the noise, it goes away when i press the clutch in!! what does this indicate? well i be covered by my warranty as stated above?

 

a bad throw out bearing??

That's my thought when a noise goes away with the clutch pressed in (disengaged). Does the sound become more frequent if you rev the motor?

Danny

 

I would say bad throw out bearing also.

 

the noise gets louder as the rev's go up, yes it gets more noticible if you rev the car, sounds like you guys are probably right, its a bad throw out bearing, thats strange that it went bad because i just had new clutch put in with a machined flywheel last november! how much would it cost to get a new throw out bearing? and will i be covered by mazda? because i still have a one year on the new clutch and the machined flywheel.

 

Guys i got some info here, a bad throwout bearing is the opposite of the symptoms you guys are telling me, if a throwout bearing is bad what happens is will get the noise if you push the clutch down, I think its the pressure plate thats gone bad, anybody else support my belief?

 

throwout bearing's that are bad will make a wirring sound but the tic tic tic is just some weird noise that my car makes too and well... since nothings broke DON'T FIX IT... lol... I have a 9.5 lb flywheel and ACT 6 puck clutch... its kinda annoying but I'm used to it.

 

A bad throw-out bearing will make more noise with the clutch pedal pushed in.

I think you get more "gears ticking around noise" with a light flywheel because the engine doesn't idle as smoothly. The noise stops with the clutch in because the gears stop spinning.

I wouldn't worry about it.

-Max

 

I have the same problem with my 1st and 3rd gen. It sounds like a clunk, clunkclunk, clunk when it's idleing and becomes a grinding hum when driving in 1st and 2nd gear. It's also very noticeable when engine braking in 3rd and 2nd gear. I misdiagnosed it as a throwout bearing last year. Getting a new bearing did nothing to fix it.

It's a transmission noise... probably caused by a damaged bearing somewhere. When you push the clutch the sound whirres to a stop. Redline synthetic actually made it worse in my 1st gen. I've been told by many to just leave it alone until you cant stand it anymore... at that point you're all ready for a rebuild. I think my next step is to thicken my gear oil somehow... maybe using a product like Lucas.

 

Try this. The noise comes from the middle of the car, right? It goes away when you push in the clutch, right? It could be in your tranni. It could be your input shaft bearing. I had it go on two seperate trans. It goes away when you push in the clutch because the shaft stops spinning. You should actually hear it slow down. You probably hear it stronger at idle? It sounds like a train? I'm willing to put money on it being this. I didn't think of it until you said train noise thing.
Good luck.
Jim

 

yeah thats what it exactly sounds like a train and the sound of its wheels on the rail way tracks click clickclick click, how much does it cost to replace the input shaft bearing?

 

I took the quick way out, and bought a used trans. for $500. I'm sorry, but I really don't know how much it would cost to replace just the bearing. I don't think it would be worth it. I totally don't know what the inside of the trans. is like. I imagine that if you're opening up the trans., that it would be worth it to rebuild the whole thing. I don't know for sure though.
Considering I bought a used one, and have the same problem a year later, I would by a rebuilt or rebuild your current one. Buying a rebuilt one can be over $1,000. I don't know how much it will cost to rebuild it around your area. You will have some down time if you choose to rebuild as well. It might be worth your while (depending on how much a rebuild will cost) to by a rebuilt one, swap it in, and rebuild the bad one and sell it. That's if you don't want any down time and/or have the money.
I would try to get a solid opinion (in person) that that's your problem before doing it though.
Good luck
Jim

 

pilot bearing would be a bad case scenario, but could be the throw out bearing, or a flex plate that has a stress crack in it....i saw this a few months ago as well....