How to: Remove auto' flywheel counterweight?
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How to: Remove auto' flywheel counterweight?
I don't have the auto chapter in my manual. I can't find it in the R&R video. I don't want to break anything. It's stuck on real good but I have no idea how. Do I need some special puller that I don't have? The flywheel puller won't work. uhg!
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Ok, so it wasn't in the removal video but there was a few seconds in the rebuild video. It showed some kind of puller. Whether there is a specific counterweight puller or he used anotehr kind, it didn't mention. Is this the only way? If so, is it called a counterweight puller or what? :Scratch:
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Originally Posted by JOSH FRANCO
I have a chapter that shows everything about auto transmission.If you still need help PM me. I can make you copies and mail them to you.
Originally Posted by skunks
it is on the rotaryaviation video, engine rebuild video.
i suggest buying it asap!
i suggest buying it asap!
#6
Constant threat
I too have been searching for a puller like that and have come to the conclusion that I am going to have to make one. I have seen some heavy-duty pullers that have a variety of attachment points for the offsets, but I hate to spend $50 just to find out it won't work. I'm thinking of just getting the measurements and making one out of steel at work (machine shop) and being done with it.
#7
http://tinyurl.com/7me8d <-links to autozone site
I used one of these. I was doing this on a 12a though so I'm not sure if there is a difference with a 13b c/w. I used my own bolts so I wouldn't possibly damage theirs. I put it on there and tightened ot up pretty tight and hit it with a 3# hammer a couple times and it popped right off. I always use a 1/4 inch thick piece of steel bigenough to cover the end of the e-shaft to put the puller up against.
I used one of these. I was doing this on a 12a though so I'm not sure if there is a difference with a 13b c/w. I used my own bolts so I wouldn't possibly damage theirs. I put it on there and tightened ot up pretty tight and hit it with a 3# hammer a couple times and it popped right off. I always use a 1/4 inch thick piece of steel bigenough to cover the end of the e-shaft to put the puller up against.
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#8
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Originally Posted by g17-jimmy
http://tinyurl.com/7me8d <-links to autozone site
I used one of these. I was doing this on a 12a though so I'm not sure if there is a difference with a 13b c/w. I used my own bolts so I wouldn't possibly damage theirs. I put it on there and tightened ot up pretty tight and hit it with a 3# hammer a couple times and it popped right off. I always use a 1/4 inch thick piece of steel bigenough to cover the end of the e-shaft to put the puller up against.
I used one of these. I was doing this on a 12a though so I'm not sure if there is a difference with a 13b c/w. I used my own bolts so I wouldn't possibly damage theirs. I put it on there and tightened ot up pretty tight and hit it with a 3# hammer a couple times and it popped right off. I always use a 1/4 inch thick piece of steel bigenough to cover the end of the e-shaft to put the puller up against.
Thanks!
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Only $10, thanks jimmy. I'll see if harbor frieight carry that.
ok, here is what I found...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45977
and...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37714
ok, here is what I found...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45977
and...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37714
Last edited by GoRacer; 04-17-05 at 12:37 PM.
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The bottom one won't work, it's too small. I should have bought both cause now I have to take the stupd bus back there to get the gear puler. Am I the only person to open a block with a light weight flywheel?
#12
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I have one almost exactly the same as the autozone one (actually, I think I bought it for like $20 at autozone). Of course, I had to go buy a couple of metric bolts so it would thread into the counterweight. Works great everytime (on both flywheels, and counterweights).
-Rob
-Rob
#13
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Rob, why arent you using your manual flywheel puller?
If the two holes don't line up with two of the six on the auto cw, then drill two holes on the flat part of the puller where they are supposed to be. Then you can do it as it was designed, it will rest against the e-shaft and pull the cw off.
If the two holes don't line up with two of the six on the auto cw, then drill two holes on the flat part of the puller where they are supposed to be. Then you can do it as it was designed, it will rest against the e-shaft and pull the cw off.
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The flywheel puller won't remove the counter weight, neither will the two pullers I bought. Anyhow, I figured it out but it took me way too long and reminded me of a test I had to solve to be an engineering aprentice. I have eyes and yet I can not see, said the guy on blind justice "lol". Anyhow, the answer is: Remove the flywheel, then reinsert the flywheel screws in to the counterweight, tighten in a crisscross pattern and pop she's off. I took a pic but too frrekin tired to post.
#15
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Originally Posted by GoRacer
The flywheel puller won't remove the counter weight, neither will the two pullers I bought.
Good idea with the bolts through the counterweight though. Now that you mention that, I remember hearing a few people mention they did it the same way. I've just never tried it, because the puller usually works for me.
Glad you got it off! Good luck with the rest of your project.
-Rob
#20
sorry to bring up a old thread but my cw is being a...well you know what.
the links above no longer work. is this the type of puller that you guys are using?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30305
thanks
the links above no longer work. is this the type of puller that you guys are using?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30305
thanks
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risingsunroof82
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09-07-15 01:11 PM
auto, automatic, bolts, coubterweight, counter, counterweigh, counterweight, fd3s, flywheel, rear, removal, remove, rx, rx7, weight