how much would you pay for 95 with 6k mi
#28
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Just called the dealer, they want at least 31k for it. Just too much for a 9 year old car considering you can get sti for same or jporsche 993 for 35k+. bill
#30
3rd motors a charm I hope
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Originally posted by scotty305
I'd want to see it first and drive it too, then I'd pay blue book for it if it's everything they say it is. For a '95 car to have 6K miles on the original engine, that's less than 700 miles per YEAR, which makes me VERY skeptical.
If it has painted calipers and especially nonstock exhaust, there's a very real possibility that's NOT the original motor.
Good luck,
-scott-
I'd want to see it first and drive it too, then I'd pay blue book for it if it's everything they say it is. For a '95 car to have 6K miles on the original engine, that's less than 700 miles per YEAR, which makes me VERY skeptical.
If it has painted calipers and especially nonstock exhaust, there's a very real possibility that's NOT the original motor.
Good luck,
-scott-
#31
It's never fast enough...
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Originally posted by FDNewbie
Flybye...theoretically that's great. But as I think I mentioned to ya in another thread where you posted the same, warranty companies offer based on mileage AND years - whichever comes FIRST. ......
Flybye...theoretically that's great. But as I think I mentioned to ya in another thread where you posted the same, warranty companies offer based on mileage AND years - whichever comes FIRST. ......
Moral of the story, there are dozens of warranty companies out there. Best place to first start is at the dealer and check out what they got.
I always thought extended warrantys were BS. Trust me, if you get the right one, it's great insurance to cover your ride.
I bought a $1000 insurance which covered $2000 worth of repairs in an old Celica I had. I bought a $1000 warranty on the FD which it covered over $7000 in repairs
#32
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by Flybye
Did you guys even check the build date?
12/95
This was destined to be a 96 before Mazda pulled the plug. It probably didn't get here till the begining of 96. Since there are NO official 96 US FDs, they called these models left over 95s. Meaing it probably didn't get sold till early 96-mid 96.
Did you guys even check the build date?
12/95
This was destined to be a 96 before Mazda pulled the plug. It probably didn't get here till the begining of 96. Since there are NO official 96 US FDs, they called these models left over 95s. Meaing it probably didn't get sold till early 96-mid 96.
#33
It's never fast enough...
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Originally posted by jimlab
..... Build date is not necessarily an indication of anything...
..... Build date is not necessarily an indication of anything...
Do you have the 4 channel ABS?
#34
Rotor Nut.
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correct me if im wrong on this but does this 95 silver pep with 6k miles look like it has been repainted??? on all repainted fds i see the pinch weld under the car is painted... mine is on its original paint and my pinch weld is black ( my car is red ) and all other fd original paints that i have seen are black... just wanted to know for future reference and when i get my car repainted.( want to keep original as possible )
#35
Originally posted by Flybye
When I worked at the dealer, we dealt with 3 different warranty companies. All with different options, different years, and different component coverages, and every other week we had some salesman from a different warranty company wanting in on the action.
Moral of the story, there are dozens of warranty companies out there. Best place to first start is at the dealer and check out what they got.
I always thought extended warrantys were BS. Trust me, if you get the right one, it's great insurance to cover your ride.
I bought a $1000 insurance which covered $2000 worth of repairs in an old Celica I had. I bought a $1000 warranty on the FD which it covered over $7000 in repairs
When I worked at the dealer, we dealt with 3 different warranty companies. All with different options, different years, and different component coverages, and every other week we had some salesman from a different warranty company wanting in on the action.
Moral of the story, there are dozens of warranty companies out there. Best place to first start is at the dealer and check out what they got.
I always thought extended warrantys were BS. Trust me, if you get the right one, it's great insurance to cover your ride.
I bought a $1000 insurance which covered $2000 worth of repairs in an old Celica I had. I bought a $1000 warranty on the FD which it covered over $7000 in repairs
But here's my thing (sorry if I seem stubborn)...I'm not talking about a warranty you get from the dealership. Cuz quite frankly, I'm NOT taking my car to the dealership to get repaired, and at least where I'm at, the dealership offers a warranty on your car provided THEY repair it.
So that leaves you with other private "aftermarket" warranty companies. I spent a good few weeks looking online through all of them (this was last year mind you), and almost all of them covered cars built in 1994 and up, and I'd guess it would now be 1995 and up. Also, most required the mileage to be under 100K, some allowed only a drivetrain warranty if the car was under 150K.
So i called practically EVERY one up. First question they ask: year, make, and model. Usually the conversation ended after the "year" part. "Too old" they said. If I did make it past that, they typed in RX7 into the computer, "Twin turbo" popped up, and they said "sorry sir, we don't offer warranties on twin turbo cars."
Right now, I know of only 2 warranty companies that will warranty FDs...and I believe they still have the 9 year old restriction, meaning unless you just bought a 95, you're out of luck. So if you can help us get around those 2 points, your help would be GREATLY appreciated =)
Last edited by FDNewbie; 03-03-04 at 09:40 PM.
#36
It's never fast enough...
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Well lets share some experiences
I bought my FD at a Chrysler dealership. The poor sap that traded it in just got married and had to get a Cherokee. Poor guy Anyways, They gave me the Chrysler extended warranty. I looked over the contract, and it covered almost everything in the FD.
The contract had a $100 prepayment, but considering everything had an almost $1000 repair cost, I certainly didn't mind. Here's the kicker......the warranty company was part of a chain. They said take it to a dealer we deal with, you only pay the deductable, and we pay the rest. Take it anywhere you want, you pay the entire thing up front, send us the bill, and we will reimburse you.
Usually, I took it to the Mazda dealers here in Miami. I had my good and my bad experiences. It is always good to inspect the repair job before you leave the dealer.
hen Iw as bored working at the dealer, I would occasionaly read through the contracts for ***** and giggles. Some of them had different levels of coverage. Like a level 1 would only cover certain drivetrain components (certain seals, waterpump, tranny, boots, etc). Level 2 would cover internal engine components (heads, valves, pistons, cam, etc). Level 3 would cover the ENTIRE drivetrain (EVERYTHING). Level 4 would cover the entire drivetrain plus any forced induction components (Turbo, turbo manifold, wastegate, etc), and etc etc etc. One of the contracts even said it covers any motor including rotary motors. I've read contracts that were DAMN precise. I'm talking I was reading contracts that listed everyhting you can thing of (cam, cam bearings, rod, rod bolts, pistons, piston rings, oil pump, oil pump seal, valves, valve stems, valve springs. The rotary motor clause would normally just say "Rotary motor and all internal components"
There were a few tiny little abornmal things the warranty didn't cover. They replaced my engine, turbos, steering rack, several AC components, but it didn't cover my engine mounts, the damn solenoids on the engine, and a few other odd little parts. So go figure
One thing about the dealer....if they **** up, they have to fix the car out of their OWN pocket, and they don't like that very well. If they mess up once, and you come back, they will make damn sure they don't mess up again. Don't act like you know nothing. Explain EVERYTHING very well to ensure they miss NOTHING.
The age thing...well....what can I say. If the car is TOO old, it's just too old. If the dealer has found someway to warranty it, jump on it and get details. If the car has been sitting, and they are itchy to get rid of it, they might even through in the warranty for free Remember, the warranty they are selling you is at a marked up price. Throwing the warranty in for free, espeically a $1000 warranty, would only set them back a few hundred bucks. If they are extremely itchy to get rid of the car, they might do it
I bought my FD at a Chrysler dealership. The poor sap that traded it in just got married and had to get a Cherokee. Poor guy Anyways, They gave me the Chrysler extended warranty. I looked over the contract, and it covered almost everything in the FD.
The contract had a $100 prepayment, but considering everything had an almost $1000 repair cost, I certainly didn't mind. Here's the kicker......the warranty company was part of a chain. They said take it to a dealer we deal with, you only pay the deductable, and we pay the rest. Take it anywhere you want, you pay the entire thing up front, send us the bill, and we will reimburse you.
Usually, I took it to the Mazda dealers here in Miami. I had my good and my bad experiences. It is always good to inspect the repair job before you leave the dealer.
hen Iw as bored working at the dealer, I would occasionaly read through the contracts for ***** and giggles. Some of them had different levels of coverage. Like a level 1 would only cover certain drivetrain components (certain seals, waterpump, tranny, boots, etc). Level 2 would cover internal engine components (heads, valves, pistons, cam, etc). Level 3 would cover the ENTIRE drivetrain (EVERYTHING). Level 4 would cover the entire drivetrain plus any forced induction components (Turbo, turbo manifold, wastegate, etc), and etc etc etc. One of the contracts even said it covers any motor including rotary motors. I've read contracts that were DAMN precise. I'm talking I was reading contracts that listed everyhting you can thing of (cam, cam bearings, rod, rod bolts, pistons, piston rings, oil pump, oil pump seal, valves, valve stems, valve springs. The rotary motor clause would normally just say "Rotary motor and all internal components"
There were a few tiny little abornmal things the warranty didn't cover. They replaced my engine, turbos, steering rack, several AC components, but it didn't cover my engine mounts, the damn solenoids on the engine, and a few other odd little parts. So go figure
One thing about the dealer....if they **** up, they have to fix the car out of their OWN pocket, and they don't like that very well. If they mess up once, and you come back, they will make damn sure they don't mess up again. Don't act like you know nothing. Explain EVERYTHING very well to ensure they miss NOTHING.
The age thing...well....what can I say. If the car is TOO old, it's just too old. If the dealer has found someway to warranty it, jump on it and get details. If the car has been sitting, and they are itchy to get rid of it, they might even through in the warranty for free Remember, the warranty they are selling you is at a marked up price. Throwing the warranty in for free, espeically a $1000 warranty, would only set them back a few hundred bucks. If they are extremely itchy to get rid of the car, they might do it
#37
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by Flybye
I never said it was definitly sold during x time period. Every car that I ever saw manufactured late during the year was stamped as the next year's model.
I never said it was definitly sold during x time period. Every car that I ever saw manufactured late during the year was stamped as the next year's model.
BTW, the serial number (400462) indicates there were several more produced afterward to make up the 500 1995s Mazda says were produced for the U.S market. 1995 started with "400001" and mine was #400243, again with a 9/95 build date. I don't know that we've ever established what the latest build date for a U.S. '95 model is.
Do you have the 4 channel ABS?
#38
Originally posted by bricke
We all know blue book means so much in the FD market right?
Originally posted by scotty305
I'd want to see it first and drive it too, then I'd pay blue book for it if it's everything they say it is.
I'd want to see it first and drive it too, then I'd pay blue book for it if it's everything they say it is.
The original question was "how much would you pay" and that's how much I would pay. It's at a dealership, that usually means the car has been abused by the porters, salesmen, and anyone who they let test-drive it. Dealerships make TONS of money selling used cars, if they want my business, they need to be willing to settle for slightly less than a $5-10K profit off one sale. They can just rip off the next customer to make up for it, if the next customer will allow them to.
Super-low miles can be both good and bad: the chassis is in great shape I'm sure, but the engine might not be, and it's likely that all the soft bits (bushings, hoses etc..) have aged enough that they're becoming a problem regardless of how often the car was driven or not.
So it's up to you: is a new chassis worth that much of a price premium, when the rest of the car is likely to need attention still? Don't get me wrong, it's a great find, but ask anyone and they'll tell you FD's are not quite perfect out of the box. Personally I don't have the finances right now to justify paying that much for a car that should still have a few mods done to it before you can consider it a reliable vehicle.
I paid about half that much for my car with 40K more miles on it, in very similar condition. For that price difference, I could have my motor professionally rebuilt and replace the worn synchro's in the transmission , or maybe even have my chassis seam welded and coated with fresh paint, if you're worried about body/chassis condition.
To me, leather and sunroof make a 'pure sportscar' less desireable. Different strokes for different folks I guess.
-scott-
Last edited by scotty305; 03-04-04 at 02:21 AM.
#39
The Spirit of FLUFF!
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qoute from the ebay listing: "Our owner is the second owner". How can it be the second owner and still only have LESS than 6,000 miles on it?! BS! I'm raising the flag guys.
#40
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well after reading through all this and having just bought a 94 PEP with 11,200 miles and all the records Im saying you found one hell of a peach. Im sure your car looks exactly like mine garege kept all its life. No sun fading of anything. The steering wheel and leather looks NEW. No warn shine on the steering wheel and EVERY single part is still torqued from the factory. The plating is still on every bolt. and the paint, better than a new car today. I don't question the mileage at all. and as for motor condition.... don't trust this bull about it sitting too long. It did move some. Now if it looks like it sat outside in the sun for 8 years. It's only worth a bit over blue book.
#41
Check the Carfax report here:
http://www.carfax.com/cfm/FSBO.cfm?r...FX000006009649
According to the report the car has had just one previous owner registered in June 1996! and the mileage is accurate. The dealer wants $30,000 for it and supposedly already have a buyer.
http://www.carfax.com/cfm/FSBO.cfm?r...FX000006009649
According to the report the car has had just one previous owner registered in June 1996! and the mileage is accurate. The dealer wants $30,000 for it and supposedly already have a buyer.
Last edited by neit_jnf; 03-09-04 at 03:33 PM.
#42
I paid about $23K for my 12/95 build date 95 PEP brilliant black when I bought it about three years ago. That was just under bluebook at the time. I have the 96 ABS unit as well. I have #464
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