How to make your 3rd Gen horn work after a aftermarket wheel install.
#1
How to make your 3rd Gen horn work after a aftermarket wheel install.
This write up is to help those of you who have installed an aftermarket steering wheel and no longer have a working horn. After much searching I found a link to NRG where they made the horn work with Honda. Keep in mind it’s not all peachy. On the third gen RX7 it’s a PITA because the area to do this mod is totally different. No special tools needed to make this work.
Things needed for Mod.
-Hair clip
-a couple male to female connectors
-misc tools (screw driver, crimps, snips, pliers, )
-light tester
-electrical tape
- soldering iron with heat wraps(if you have them)
- 21mm socket and ratchet
First thing you do is grab the hair clip and snip it so the female connector can fit tight. Then get a small nail and tape the area the connector will slide on. This is so it doesn’t slide out in the future .I used this because it has a unique bend that it comes back to its original bend even if you bend it.
Next connect get wire and crimp the female end to it . You can wrap this with tape if you want. I used heat wraps for this. Just a extra precaution so if it ever falls it doesn’t set off the horn like crazy.
You will need to make a bracket of some sort. I used nice gauge bracket I had laying around bend it to form like this and test fit it on the mount . Look for the other pics for reference
Look under the dash column area and look for this clip. It should have been connected to your factory clock spring. Locate the green wire and push it out of itsconnector pin. After that get a female connector and crimp that sucker on there. Again use tape or heat wrap when you make your final connection on this area because this wire is HOT.
Hers how it looks installed on the factory screm mounts.
Here is the set-up mounted with the steering wheel so you can see where the clip makes it connection . This will keep the clip pushed up on the base of the hub adapter creating the circuit.
The bracket is super sturdy as is but I added more precautions . I ziptied the braket to the mount and installed another screw so it doesnt slid down.
Final thing to do is wrap the whole set up with electrical tape minus the hairclip. Just to be safe and zip tie in each ends of the tape. install your plastics
Install your wheel w/ quick relase . And you are DONE! now you have a working horn. with your aftermarket steering wheel set up.
Things needed for Mod.
-Hair clip
-a couple male to female connectors
-misc tools (screw driver, crimps, snips, pliers, )
-light tester
-electrical tape
- soldering iron with heat wraps(if you have them)
- 21mm socket and ratchet
First thing you do is grab the hair clip and snip it so the female connector can fit tight. Then get a small nail and tape the area the connector will slide on. This is so it doesn’t slide out in the future .I used this because it has a unique bend that it comes back to its original bend even if you bend it.
Next connect get wire and crimp the female end to it . You can wrap this with tape if you want. I used heat wraps for this. Just a extra precaution so if it ever falls it doesn’t set off the horn like crazy.
You will need to make a bracket of some sort. I used nice gauge bracket I had laying around bend it to form like this and test fit it on the mount . Look for the other pics for reference
Look under the dash column area and look for this clip. It should have been connected to your factory clock spring. Locate the green wire and push it out of itsconnector pin. After that get a female connector and crimp that sucker on there. Again use tape or heat wrap when you make your final connection on this area because this wire is HOT.
Hers how it looks installed on the factory screm mounts.
Here is the set-up mounted with the steering wheel so you can see where the clip makes it connection . This will keep the clip pushed up on the base of the hub adapter creating the circuit.
The bracket is super sturdy as is but I added more precautions . I ziptied the braket to the mount and installed another screw so it doesnt slid down.
Final thing to do is wrap the whole set up with electrical tape minus the hairclip. Just to be safe and zip tie in each ends of the tape. install your plastics
Install your wheel w/ quick relase . And you are DONE! now you have a working horn. with your aftermarket steering wheel set up.
#2
If you get a proper wheel hub, you don't have to do all that fab work. It's a plug and play 5 minute install, heck, you'll spend more time getting the stock wheel off.
I think HKB is the one that makes the hub that is correct. I'm sure others will chime in . If you find one for a 90-97 Miata, that will do the trick.
Dale
I think HKB is the one that makes the hub that is correct. I'm sure others will chime in . If you find one for a 90-97 Miata, that will do the trick.
Dale
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gracer7-rx7 (12-12-19)
#3
You are right but I didnt go that route. Workbell sells some nice hubs but too pricey for me. My end result is superb i have a working horn. Not everyone on this forum has a full bolt on system. Reason been I searched and found more threads on "my horn doesnt work" than a positive one.
Thanks Alex
Thanks Alex
#4
Thanks Alex... this is helpfull as my sons FD has an NRG quick realease...
Dale, is there a link for the referenced 90-97 Miata hub? I am assuming that it will be a direct bolt in on the FD and everything will work as intended ?
L8R
Dale, is there a link for the referenced 90-97 Miata hub? I am assuming that it will be a direct bolt in on the FD and everything will work as intended ?
L8R
#5
Not sure what a current source is for that hub, I bought mine a few years back and it fell off my radar .
I do know they're out there. The Works Bell hub is $150 or so I think, but I think there's some others that are better priced.
Dale
I do know they're out there. The Works Bell hub is $150 or so I think, but I think there's some others that are better priced.
Dale
#7
Oh they are just curious what hub do you have and is there any chance of a pic of the back side I would like to see how it works.
Because most hubs I have found can either have a horn or a turn signal. I now have both and with the quick release.
I was asked how long did it take to do this. Well from when I removed the steering wheel 10 minutes .
Because most hubs I have found can either have a horn or a turn signal. I now have both and with the quick release.
I was asked how long did it take to do this. Well from when I removed the steering wheel 10 minutes .
Last edited by Alex Rodriguez; 05-22-10 at 04:29 PM.
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#8
The Works Bell Miata hubs do not remove the turn signal function as well as comes with provisions for the horn and airbag resistor. You can see one similar in this Miata write-up:
http://www.freeengineinfo.com/afterm...eplacement.htm
The DAIKEI Boss Hub mentioned earlier in this thread is a copy of the Works Bell hub (and no longer sold as far as I know). I have the DAIKEI version installed mated with a NRG Quick Release.
http://miataroadster.com/worksbell.html
You can find them cheaper around the web if you look around.
http://www.freeengineinfo.com/afterm...eplacement.htm
The DAIKEI Boss Hub mentioned earlier in this thread is a copy of the Works Bell hub (and no longer sold as far as I know). I have the DAIKEI version installed mated with a NRG Quick Release.
http://miataroadster.com/worksbell.html
You can find them cheaper around the web if you look around.
#10
Thanks guys for your input this thread is to help those who are in the situation I was in or thinking of getting a aftermarket steering wheel. These are key pointers in helping them make a good choice.
#11
FWIW I used an NRG hub and spacer w/o a quick release and did not lose the turn signal function.
My friend's idea was to gain contact by using a paper clip, but this is solid.
#12
Thank you, Alex for posting this up.
I'm sure there are hubs out there that don't require this kind of work,
but I'm also sure there's a lot of people who bought NRG hubs like this one, including myself.
This thread helps a lot, I believe. =)
I'm sure there are hubs out there that don't require this kind of work,
but I'm also sure there's a lot of people who bought NRG hubs like this one, including myself.
This thread helps a lot, I believe. =)
#13
Wow, this helps alot.
I been having a non working horn for the past 5 years now.
I mean i do have my horn but i rigged a ghetto button underneath the dash, like under where the steering wheel is and its a pain if you need to hit the horn in a hurry, i have to stick my hand and hope i can find the button right away lol
Luckily i never used my horn much when i drive my car but this is a small project i plan on doing over the winter.
Thanks for the writeup.
I been having a non working horn for the past 5 years now.
I mean i do have my horn but i rigged a ghetto button underneath the dash, like under where the steering wheel is and its a pain if you need to hit the horn in a hurry, i have to stick my hand and hope i can find the button right away lol
Luckily i never used my horn much when i drive my car but this is a small project i plan on doing over the winter.
Thanks for the writeup.
#14
Re the Miata hub that fits the FD: I don't think that is still available. I was looking for one a couple years ago.
Re the horn: I just installed a normally open switch in the bezel behind the wheel where I can easily push it with my right hand if needed.
Re the horn: I just installed a normally open switch in the bezel behind the wheel where I can easily push it with my right hand if needed.
#16
which airbag resistor works, the male or female version? its been a few years, so I forget what the connector looks like.
great info! this thread should be a sticky in the FAQs!
great info! this thread should be a sticky in the FAQs!
#17
I just got my HKB hub, but I don't have my FD just yet.
Am I right in thinking that I don't have to do the hair clip mod to get my horn to work?
I have a 1994 non airbag FD, and a HKB boss kit, with quick release.
(My English isn't so good that I fully understand what's above, sorry)
Am I right in thinking that I don't have to do the hair clip mod to get my horn to work?
I have a 1994 non airbag FD, and a HKB boss kit, with quick release.
(My English isn't so good that I fully understand what's above, sorry)
#18
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,580
Likes: 567
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
https://miataroadster.com/worksbell.html
I just got my HKB hub, but I don't have my FD just yet.
Am I right in thinking that I don't have to do the hair clip mod to get my horn to work?
I have a 1994 non airbag FD, and a HKB boss kit, with quick release.
(My English isn't so good that I fully understand what's above, sorry)
Am I right in thinking that I don't have to do the hair clip mod to get my horn to work?
I have a 1994 non airbag FD, and a HKB boss kit, with quick release.
(My English isn't so good that I fully understand what's above, sorry)
#19
Finish Line Performance usually has the Miata hubs. They do go out of stock now and then.
Link:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php
You can search the forums on miata.net for other sources.
Link:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php
You can search the forums on miata.net for other sources.
#20
I bought a Splash Hub(works bell) and it came with everything needed. Horn works flawlessly and even the airbag resistor so it saves you 20 bucks right there.
http://www.more-japan.com/splash-sho...rs-airbag.html
if you're trying to buy the air bag light resistor itself, evasive has them for $20. not sure what shipping is but I don't see it being more than $5
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Me...B-UTURN-FEMALE
http://www.more-japan.com/splash-sho...rs-airbag.html
if you're trying to buy the air bag light resistor itself, evasive has them for $20. not sure what shipping is but I don't see it being more than $5
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Me...B-UTURN-FEMALE
#21
That is a ridiculous amount of space between the wheel and the signal and wiper stalks. Can you even reach them with your hands on the wheel?
Those quick disconnect hubs usually space the wheel too close to the driver for easy access to controls.
Those quick disconnect hubs usually space the wheel too close to the driver for easy access to controls.
#22
With almost every quick release hub except for a few shorty one's out there that are now coming out, the all require you to remove your hand from the wheel. This is why I opted just for a hub. Some people prefer the wheel closer to them, though.
#23
II can barely reach the lever with my fingers while my hands still on the wheel. It's not as bad as it looks. In retrospect, I like the steering wheel closer to me but I probably should've bought the flat nardi instead of deep corn. the Gen3 quick release from NRG is nice and those handles are removable so it'll look like a regular quick release with a nice little flange to hold onto.
#24
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,619
Likes: 120
From: Colorado Springs, CO
I was going to chime in and say that I also did not have to go to this much trouble to get my horn to work. I have the Daikei hub, NRG quick release and MOMO wheel and I just had to add a wire, which I took from the stock setup. I was so happy to have a working horn again though haha.
#25
Big THANKS to Alex
I installed my Momo Race wheel last nite and used this write up to make a horn contact.
I simplified it in the sense that I used a thin piece of alloy and formed it to make the contact on the back of the hub without a bracket.
Thanks again for guiding me in the right direction..
Joe
I installed my Momo Race wheel last nite and used this write up to make a horn contact.
I simplified it in the sense that I used a thin piece of alloy and formed it to make the contact on the back of the hub without a bracket.
Thanks again for guiding me in the right direction..
Joe