How easy/hard is it to pull engine and replace seals?
#26
dorito powered
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http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3rdgen/home.html
seriously, the prices here are not much more than if you were going to do it yourself. A buddy locally has had a RR rebuild and has been running it problem free for a few years now.
seriously, the prices here are not much more than if you were going to do it yourself. A buddy locally has had a RR rebuild and has been running it problem free for a few years now.
#28
Rotary Freak
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I have the shop manual so I'm set on that.
What I'm trying to figure out right now is the total cost of parts/seals. If I take a look at atkinsrotary.com and their rebuild kits, which kit would I get? Kit C? or Rotor Kit or which?
If you go into greater detail, should I just get regular atkin apex seals or cryogenically treated apex seals? Same thing goes for the corner and side seals.
If I got 3mm Kit C with everything cryogenically treated, it comes out to be around $1560 for the kit. Will this kit have everything I need to do the build (seeing that the rotor housings and rotors are in good shape still) I'm trying to get an "out the door" price to compare it to having someone else doing the work.
What I'm trying to figure out right now is the total cost of parts/seals. If I take a look at atkinsrotary.com and their rebuild kits, which kit would I get? Kit C? or Rotor Kit or which?
If you go into greater detail, should I just get regular atkin apex seals or cryogenically treated apex seals? Same thing goes for the corner and side seals.
If I got 3mm Kit C with everything cryogenically treated, it comes out to be around $1560 for the kit. Will this kit have everything I need to do the build (seeing that the rotor housings and rotors are in good shape still) I'm trying to get an "out the door" price to compare it to having someone else doing the work.
#29
Rotary Freak
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Dude - you will need the following equipment to pull the engine
- 4 jackstands
- floor jack
- engine lift
- engine tilt
- engine stand
- a butane torch
- impact wrench of at least 600 ft-lbs reverse torque or a 4 feet breaker bar
- 52 mm socket for the flywheel
- 8 lb sledge hammer
- torque wrench
- transmission jack
- 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 24mm sockets in 1/2 and 3/8 sizes
- pry bar
- 4 jackstands
- floor jack
- engine lift
- engine tilt
- engine stand
- a butane torch
- impact wrench of at least 600 ft-lbs reverse torque or a 4 feet breaker bar
- 52 mm socket for the flywheel
- 8 lb sledge hammer
- torque wrench
- transmission jack
- 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 24mm sockets in 1/2 and 3/8 sizes
- pry bar
#31
More money=more power/fun
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I would let the shop to do a job at this time. If you want to learn, its good to buy a blew motor on the side and mess around at home.
Noone can gives you an answer that it is easy or hard. But its your car/money. Good luck
Noone can gives you an answer that it is easy or hard. But its your car/money. Good luck
#32
If that engine was just rebuilt 2k miles ago all you SHOULD need is 3mm Apex Seals, Gasket kit(Coolant seals, o-rings, etc), Oil control rings, Apex Seal springs. That should be all you need if the engine was just rebuilt 2k miles ago, plan to spend about $500.00 on the rebuild parts. You do need a goo amount of tools to do an engine build and pull/install. Well over $1k in tools to do it, that or have some good friends with nice tools you can borrow.
#33
Mr. Links
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Given that you haven't taken anyone's advise up to this point, which has what's gotten you into this situation, I don't know if you'll even take the advice already mentioned in this thread.
However, I would recommend the following:
1. DO NOT buy any rebuild parts/kits yet.
2. DO buy the rebuild video
3. DO watch the rebuild video
4. DO pull your engine
5. DO disassemble your engine
6. DO clean and evaluate all the parts to understand what can or cannot be reused
After that, if it makes good financial sense, order whatever replacement parts are needed. However, you will not know what you need until you open the engine up and examine it. I'll bet there is scaring on the housing.
However, I would recommend the following:
1. DO NOT buy any rebuild parts/kits yet.
2. DO buy the rebuild video
3. DO watch the rebuild video
4. DO pull your engine
5. DO disassemble your engine
6. DO clean and evaluate all the parts to understand what can or cannot be reused
After that, if it makes good financial sense, order whatever replacement parts are needed. However, you will not know what you need until you open the engine up and examine it. I'll bet there is scaring on the housing.
#34
Rotary Freak
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First of all I want to thank everyone for replying and giving me advice.
Mahjik, I am taking advice, just not making any movement yet until I finally decide. What I've decided is that I'm going to have the current motor done professionally. I found a blown 2mm block local for $400 and I will likely buy that and rebuild that on my own/for fun and as a learning tool.
Thanks again for everyone's suggestions and help, I'll keep you guys updated.
Mahjik, I am taking advice, just not making any movement yet until I finally decide. What I've decided is that I'm going to have the current motor done professionally. I found a blown 2mm block local for $400 and I will likely buy that and rebuild that on my own/for fun and as a learning tool.
Thanks again for everyone's suggestions and help, I'll keep you guys updated.
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