tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Anyone who has replaced these, please help! Go to link below to see pictures and my questions (text on pictures). I need to know the best way to get the OMP lines off the oil injectors. Both lines snapped where they connect to the oil injector, I ordered new stock OMP lines from Ray at Molley mazda (and a new FPD and injector grommets/seals). Ray was trying to tell me how to remove these, but I didn't understand because he was saying I should unbolt them at the injector, I know they unbolt done at the OMP, but not up top.

http://czfitnessproducts.com/tom94RX-7/OMP_lines/

This picture is the one you should look at first. (click on image for full size)


After I replace them, I may also need to know how they are held on tightly at the injectors, so if anyone has some info for me that would be great. I have spent many hours reading most of the posts about these lines, but I didn't see any talk about how to remove them at the top or how the new lines will reconnect.

The job started out to investigate the fuel smell under the UIM. I am going to replace all 4 of the injectors with Blitz stock injectors while I have it all apart and so I don't have to worry about them for a long time, and a new FPD (fuel pulsation dampner). There was puddles of fuel on top of the engine, I am pretty sure the primary injectors were the main cause. I also ordered a FC thermoswitch. I also plan to relocate the intake temp. sensor while I am at it (under the intake elbow). Almost all of the vacuum hoses, coolant and fuel hoses were replaced by the previous owner, I just bought the car a few months ago.

Thanks for any help!

JDK

iTrader: (8)

You have to remove the oil injector and the line will come off

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I was going to try that but I didn't see how unbolting the injector could help to remove the line that is stuck on, i'll go do that now. thanks

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I got the injector and the broken line piece off, that was easy!, I wish I would have just tried that before wasting my time taking the pictures and starting this thread, I never thought it would all come apart that way. I managed to get everything off such as the rats nest and everything without needing to ask any questions, plenty of reading the forum though, this part was probably the easiest yet I didn't think it was so easy before you helped.

Now I need to get ready to remove the entire line to replace them when the new stock OMP lines come in early next week (you got to love the fast shipping from Ray at Malloy)

Anyone who has replaced these lines with the front of the engine all assembled, if you want to give me some advice or tips that would be great. such as what is the easiest way to do this and what all needs taken off, now I only have the UIM, rats nest at stuff on top of the engine removed, everything in front of the engine including airbox and alternator is all still assembled. I remember reading I can get to the OMP from under the car to unbolt the lines there.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Before I took off the rats nest, I noticed the vacuum hose going to the front oil injector was hanging next to it disconnected, that's not good. Also a vacuum line going from the FPR to the LIM (just above primary injectors) was not connected to the LIM, I don't think it is supposed to go there but that is where the hose was going to. No hoses were connected to the Pressure Regulator Control solenoid valve, from looking at the diagram I think hoses are supposed to go from that solenoid valve to the FPR and the LIM. I wonder why all these hoses were not connected properly. Last month I just took off the UIM because I had a check engine light for the relief 1 solenoid, it was not plugged in, after I plugged it in my boost went up and it ran better, then I had to get manual boost controllers.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I got my OMP lines completely off the engine, getting them off was easier than I thought it was going to be. I thought I read in the forum that the water pump housing and many other things needed to be removed, along with everything I already had removed such as the fuel injectors and rats nest, however you don't need to loosen or remove the waterpump housing. All else I had to remove (in order) was the stock air box and pipes, all the stock intercooler piping, the alternator (and all the alternator/belt adjuster brackets and bolts), the air pump, and the underbelly under the car. The two 10mm OMP line bolts were not hard to get loose and take off using a long 10mm boxed end wrench, from under the car I put the wrench on the bolt, then I grabbed the wrench from above to easily loosen the bolts.

There are two clips behind the water pump housing that hold the two OMP lines and two wire harnesses together in place. you can see the one closest to the OMP, it is bolted on with one bolt, unbolt it and then bend it with a screwdriver to open it up so you can remove the OMP lines from that metal clip. The other metal clip is not visible, and I couldn't tell if it is bolted on, but you can easily bend it and open it up with your finger, then you can remove the omp lines without much or any difficulty. Mine were only hard and stiffer at the part of the line on top of the engine, the rest of the lines were softer and more flexible.

I am glad I bought the stock lines because they will be easy to install and fit perfect because of being prebent, they will be flexible when new, and Ray at Molloy mazda only charged me I think 20 or $25 at the most for each line.

Sorry for all the long posts, but I hope all this helps anyone in the future who needs to replace these OMP lines. If you already have the injector rails and rats nest out of your car, I would strongly suggest replacing these lines even if they look okay, you might as well do it while you can, it's not much more work, just the easier stuff needs taken off to get the lines off completely, and chances are you have already had these other parts off in the past so you should think the rest of the job is easy after getting the rats nest and injectors out. I think the stock lines are fine for replacements, I have 93k miles on my car and I only needed to replace them because they broke when I must have bumped them taking out the injector rails. They should last longer now since my underhood temps should be on average a little lower than they were with the previous owner without the fan mod, fluidyne rad and FC thermostitch.