1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Jeez, you people are giants lol.

I am 5'9 and i have some excercise getting in and out of my FD. My car is lowered so that might be one of the causes.

Aside from being inches from the floor, i say the FD is pretty comfortable when stationary. I need new suspension so ride quality isnt that great lol.

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

Do you guys notice that when passengers try to get out of the car they ALWAYS complain about how low and difficult it is?

dhays

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for helping clear that up. This is another of my ignorant questions, but why is the combustion of predetonation so much more violent than that created with the spark?

evilg

6'4, JDM series 7, undersized momo steering wheel, no sunroof.

I fit perfectly with the seat all the way back. I know the wheel would bang my knees if it was stock, but the undersized wheel solves that.

certain helmets are a problem, but some are okay in my experience - but really how often do you wear a helmet as opposed to not wearing one?

czwalga00gt

iTrader: (3)

In terms of a piston engine the explosion happends when the piston is on the way up instead of starting its down turn.

Look at like... two trains hitting going at eachother going 40 mph; they hit with a 80mph impact. A controlled explosion is like two trains going the same way one going 40 mph and the the other going 45. The one from the rear hits the one infront but the impact speed is only 5mph.

dudeman

heres one that i might be getting and everything about the car tell me what you guys think




With that said, I have a brilliant black 1995 Mazda RX7 PEP (sunroof, tan leather seats, black interior, black carpet which is new) with slightly over 100K miles on it. I bought it essentially new and I used it as a daily driver for years but I eventually spent enough money and modified it to the point where it just wasn't sensible as a daily driver and way to expensive to daily drive. The list of modifications is long so I'll try to organize it as best I can. The car has new paint and a brand new engine with ZERO road miles on it. It's been sitting in a garage for over a year. Yes, it'll fire right up and I do so periodically. I'm sure there's going to be lots of stuff I've forgotten as I just haven't had time to play with the car.

Engine: CLR Motorsports-built engine with port-phased low compression rotors that were balanced and lightened. The engine itself is a Cosmo engine, new plates and new housings, very large street port. Will flow enough air for 600whp. Basically, this is a top of the line engine from CLR and to duplicate it would run about $9K. I have the cast, O-ring oil pan too, so no leaks. Lots of polished stuff, intake manifold, front cover, thermostat housing, etc...AST eliminated, Fluidyne radiatorm special secret cooling mod, dual Mocal oil coolers, this car will never overheat on or off the track. Braided oil injector lines from Gotham. The A/C and power steering have been eliminated although I have all the parts for both and will be included with the car. Again, I'm sure there's lots more.

Engine management: Apexi Power FC with Datalogit and Innovative Wideband (brand new 02 sensor). Car is untuned at this point with just a basic tune to get her running and driving. Starts fine but I have not had time to tune it and will not have time to do so any time in the near future. Apexi AVC-R boost controller and an HKS Twin Power as well.

Turbo: Garrett GT4088 turbo with upgraded 40R wheel (courtesy of Sean) with less than 5K miles on it. Stainless header, GReddy Type R wastegate, fed back into the downpipe. Braided feed line, ceramic heat blanket, EGT port and GReddy EGT gauge. GReddy front mount intercooler, Type R, all aluminum piping, polished. HKS metalflow air filter on the turbo.

Exhaust: 3" midpipe with Borla X1R, GReddy Power Extreme cat-back to keep the sound modest. Screams at WOT.

Fuel system: 550/1300's, all were recently cleaned/rebuilt, new o-rings, dual Walbro fuel pumps with dedicated wiring harness. Stock fuel lines to and from the tank. I kept the fuel system simple for street use, good idle quality, easy start, etc...as the car sits now, it's fuel-limited in how much hp it can make (well north of 400hp).

Driveline: Stock transmission with an Exedy Hyper Single clutch setup (extremely light and quick shifting with this clutch), stock rear end with a differential brace. B&M short shifter with GReddy shift ****.

Suspension: I have what is probably the only set of Aragosta fully adjustable coil-overs for an RX7 in the U.S. They're consistently ranked above Ohlins by RX7 Magazine in Japan. Spring rate is 10/8 f/r. Very firm yet plush at the same time, they're worlds better than any of the off the shelf stuff you can commonly buy. Suspension techniques front and rear sway bars, adjustable in the rear. Differential brace too. Widefoot swaybar mounts, Mazdatrix end links, M2 toe links and trailing arms.


Wheels and Brakes: I have what is essentially a new set of Volk Racing SE37A rims powdercoated semi gloss black. They have zero miles on them and no blemishes. 18x9.5" at all four corners. They weigh about 16.5lbs. each and look absolutely killer on the car. Front brakes are an AP Racing 13" 4-piston setup (gold calipers) with stock brakes (aftermarket slotted rotors) in the rear. I think I'm using Porterfield R4S pads at the moment. The AP Racing rotors and pads are relatively new and have about 6K miles on them. The tires are Kumho 712's and are in need of replacement.

Body: Again, new black paint. Knightsports carbon fiber hood (Rotary Extreme) painted black, RE-A rear diffuser(Rotary Extreme), Feed side skirts (Shine? not installed) and RE-A AD GT nose (replica). NO rear spoiler. I also have carbon fiber RE Amemiya canards for the N1 nose.

Interior: This is where my efforts have ground to a hault. I ordered the new aftermarket carpet in black and waited forever for it. It finally arrived but I haven't had time to install it. I am putting sound deadening material through out the inside of the car (Second Skin, best stuff made). So as the car sits now, all the interior, except for the dashboard and gauge cluster, is out of the car. Panels have normal wear and tear but most are in very good condition. All of the instrument surrounds have been redone and look like new and I have a gauge cluster with two gauge pods molded into the cluster as well. I have a GReddy EGT gauge to go in one of the pods. The passsenger's seat is decent, the driver's seat is not. Both are tan and I had planned to either recover them or replace the seats with aftermarket units. I just never got around to it. There is no stereo system in the car. I have wires (I think they're Monster wires) which run to all the appropriate places but there is no head unit in the car. I have four MB Quarts speakers and I had a small sub box in the rear which wasn't very good to be honest so it's not being sold with the car. My plan was to remove the stereo wires but if someone yells "stop!" I'll leave them in there. I know I have a few new parts, like the driver's side window actuator switches, etc..

I weighed the car a long time ago and it was just above 2600lbs. That many moons and many modifications ago. As it sits, I'm sure the car is somewhere in the 2500lb. range.

So what I have now is one of 500 1995 RX7's with lots of very expensive parts on it, close to being finished. I'm sure I've left out a bunch of stuff so when I have an opportunity, I'll go over the car and see what I left off. When you've been doing this as long as I have, sometimes you forget what you put on the car!

I would really prefer someone local or semi-local that can look at the car in person and I can go over everything with them. I'll be able to help a bit in the future if you're local too. This car is not for a novice driver either. I won't sell it to you unless you have some experience in a high hp rwd car. It's really set up to be a killer track day car and weekend warrior so keep that in mind. There are a ton of extra stock parts/rims that will go with the car too.

I'm really looking for north of $20K for the car. I'm going to try to piece the interior back together over the next few weeks but the more time/money/effort I put into finishing it, the more I'm going to ask for her. With that said, I'd probably take $20K for the car in it's current state. I'm just about done with the sound deadening and I should have the carpeting in this weekend and hopefully the rest of the interior.

The Evo is a 2005 VIII with the SSL package and a lot of extra stuff. I've taken very good care of her and she honestly has not been abused like most of the Evo's out there. The engine's never been touched, valve cover never off, etc...panel filter and turbo-back exhaust. Most of the nuts/bolts came marked from the factory and/or dealer so they'd know if I tampered with the car. So it's obvious the engine has never been touched. I've had ZERO mechanical issues with this car. It drives great and gets around 24mpg city, 28mpg highway when not flooring it. For more info and pics, go to:
FS: 05 Evo VIII SSL package (FLORIDA) - evolutionm.net
$21,900 with everything.

The easiest way to get a hold of me is via e-mail at michelfortier@mac.com and if you have any questions, I'd shoot me an e-mail as opposed to posting here or sending a PM. I'm located in Fort Myers.
Pics!

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That owner is on this forum. He has a lot of custom stuff on that car. If you have issues, you'll mostly be on your own for a lot of the troubleshooting. Great car though. I've admired it for years.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

Got it. Makes perfect sense and I should have figured that out on my own. thanks.

dudeman

thats promising