Sabenza

Hi, I am new to this forum. The motor in my '93 FD was blown several months ago and as no mechanics in Hong Kong is confident to rebuild an FD engine, my local mechanic has ordered a used '95 FD engine from Japan (which has done approx 50000km). Two weeks ago the 95 engine was placed into the old frame but using the same '93 ECU. He also used the '95 air conditioner unit. The car is now exhibiting high temp, i.e. up to 110C (or230F). I tried to do a third gear run from 2000rpm at wot, and the boost guage climbs to 0.95 bar (which is nearly 14 psi). My car is stock except with the following mods:-
1. ARC intake air box
2. Apexi Hybrid Turbo Cat Back Muffler
3. 1.5' FWIN radiator
4. Defi temp guage (sensor placed at a specified location on the FWIN radiator) and boost guage

I also notice that when the car becomes hot (around 105c) and when the AC is switched on, the car will die at traffic lights when the car is in neutral or clutch in at low rpm. With the AC OFF, the car is fine with idle very steady at about 900rpm.

Can someone be kind enough to point me in the right direction? Is it useful to install a fan controller to turn on the radiator fan at a lower temperature? Thanks.

artguy

the hoses to your turbos...the ones that should have restrictor pills in them...id bet he replaced them with new and didnt put the pills back in. you should not be boosting any more than ten lbs if those pills are in the hoses.

get the needle valve boost controller and tune your boost back down

you need to check your fans...and flush your radiator to start...even replacing the radiator cap and the thermostat.

you might have air in your coolant system...flush it all out and start fresh in case there is goop in there...if its clean then just be sure to bleed out any air bubbles.

if all this stuff fails...get a radiator from fluidyne and upgrade your fans.

it sounds like your fans arent coming on....your fans will run with the ac on...if you turn on your ac and those fans dont go into overdrive he farked something up.

does the car die because the idle is too low? if so there is an idle screw up on the plenum which you can twist and play with


good luck


j

Sabenza

Thanks for the reply, ARTGUY. I think i'll get a needle valve boost controller but can you recommend me a brand? Do you need two or just one?
The car will die just as the compressor of the air con is turned on. If the compressor is off (even if the AC is switched on), the car will not die. The idle will decrease sharply when the compressor is switched on and you can feel the engine shaking to maintain idle; sometimes the motor will die andsometimes it manages to climb back up to 900rpm.
Many thanks.

Sabenza

Is it possible to use a electronic boost controller to keep my boost down such as the Blitz Dual SBC Type R, EVC,etc? Will it be similar to the method mentioned by Damian (perfect 10-8-10) using a Hallman Pro RX Kit? Due to my limited knowledge on turbos, I do not quite understand what are the differences between Damian's Hall Pro RX and replacing the pill with a needle valve or a electronic boost controller (I just learnt what the pill is)? Are there any difference? Can somebody explain this to me? Many thanks.

artguy

hmmm....interesting....well i dont know too much about the stock idle settings...on my pwer fc there are idle settings for both AC and no AC.

i have a profec b boost controller..like new...if you wanna pick a boost controller up.

do a search for home depot boost controller and you will find the info about installing the manual boost controller...you can also do a search for dawes device.

the former can be purchased at any hardware store...tis just hose and needlevalves and some clamps...

if you cant get this figured out...ask in rotary performance forum. there are real knowledgable people that post in there...tis a better place to get tech help.


yes you can use any boost controller.

in the long run any boost controller you choose will work fine...as long as it is set right. be very careful when setting it....start with no boost and ease your way up...start with the prespool and low boost...then once you get prespool right ease the boost up to ten lbs.


good luck


j

sirjury

sounds like the idle kick up for the ac isnt working, or the compressor is bad and is creating to much of a load on the engine. the 95 and 93 have different systems im surprised the compressor would work with the 93 system unless you switched everything over. you didnt mention when the car ran hot, at idle, with ac on only, wot ? idle and low low speeds only then fan problems, on the freeway, wot, then cooling system issues. ie t-stat, clogged radiator leaking hose, too high a ratio antifreeze to water

Sabenza

Thanks for your help, SIRJURY. The water temp will become very high during slow traffic (today it went up to 108C or 226.5F). The car appears to die when the ac compressor is on. However, the temp will remain at low 90s on freeway and mid 90s during a spirited run. The idle is at around 800rpm (with AC OFF) and fluctuate between 0 to 700 (when the AC is off). The radiator is brand new and the local mechanic with redline coolant.

I went to my local mechanic today who suggested to install a fan controller whereby you can specific the temperature at which the fan will be switched on. The unit is made by BILLION but the downside is that it will allow the fans switched on at high or low, not the stock low, medium and high fan speed. Do you think it's a good idea?

The mechanic also has in stock the Profec B II and the AVCR but reading from the forums, it appears that they are difficult to install and tune and I do not know whether these can solve my boost problem. It is very easy to get other brands in HK such as the Blitz ID ver III, EVC, do you know if any brands has any advantage over the other?

I also talked to another mechanic who seems to advocate the idea that a boost controller cannot lower the boost for my car; they can only increase boost? Is this correct? I also read in the forum that someone has similar experience.

I also read Damian's post using the Hallman Ceramic Ball and Spring Valve, and given my first time in dealing with turbos, I don't know whether Damian's technique is different to just installing a electonic boost controller. They seem to be difference but I could not tell what are the difference?

Any insight will be grateful.

ludeowner

Sabenza,

Check out this other thread/topic that I started about a few days to ago, to help you try to solve your boost problem. It is about how the stock wastegate and secondary turbo pre-control works.

Read that thread, and also read the information in Rob Robinettes website (I have a link to it). And also read the thread that Damian started about the Hallman MBC (Manual Boost Controller).

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=216913

Also, here is where you can buy the Hallman boost controller. The HALLMAN PRO RX kit is a good MBC to get, or you can get the HALLMAN EVOLUTION RX kit which lets you adjust boost from in the car. Make sure you fully understand how this stuff works before doing anything to it though.

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/index.html

Sabenza

Thanks, ludeowner. Please let me know if I am correct in the following:-

Step 1:
"So pretty much when I install a Hallman MBC I will be replacing the section of vacuum line between the turbo outlet and actuator inlets with the Hallman unit and vacuum line plumbed to the correct nipples"

Does this replace the restricter pill with the Hallman MBC. On second thought, I may be wrong because it appears that the pills are still in Damian's picture (which was circled in blue). Vacuum hoses: 6mm.

Can I use a electronic boost controller instead of a MBC because I can't get a MBC in Hong Kong?

Step 2:
"bypassing the solenoids, but leaving their electrical connections plugged in or you'll throw a ECU code"

Run a vacuum line from the actuator directly to the other end where the Wastegate Control Solenoid Outflow Vent was connected in stock setup. Leave the solenoids elctronic hooked up and plug up the vacuum nipples that were previously hooked up to the actuator.
Do you have to plug up the Outflow Vent on the Wastegate Control Solenoid? This thing should still be link with the ECU?

Step 3:-
Replace the vacuum line (with the restricter pill) between the primary turbo to the Prespool Wastegate Actuator with another MBC.

Step 4:-
Run a vacuum line from the actuator directly to the other end where the Turbo PreSpool Solenoid Outflow Vent was connected in stock setup. Leave the solenoid elctronics hooked up and plug up the vacuum nipples that were previously hooked up to the actuator. Again, do you have to plug up the Turbo PreSpool Solenoid Outflow Vent.

Can someone explain what are the three hoses (deep blue, light blue and purple) in Damian's drawing diagram in his perfect 10-8-10 boost setup post.

Step 5:
Tuning
Start with all MBC closed and then adjust the primary turbo MBC until I get 10psi, then set the second MBC? Am I right?

I saw in Rob Robinette site that if a electronic boost controller is used, the hose from the wastegate actuator to the Wastegate Control Solenoid Outflow Vent should be capped? How's this method different to Damian's and yours?

I understand that I have a slow learning curve and the above may be a joke to all of you (which may be a pain in the ***) but I do appreciate your assistance.

darkside7

iTrader: (12)

ck your water temp guage. when the tremp hits 91~92c your fans should come on. also may be your pre cat and your main cats are clogged. remember, your car is now 10 yrs old. if your fans don't turn on there is your problem. also ask your mechanic what ratio the coolant to water is. you might be running too much coolant. the ratio should be around 70% water and 30% coolant