Anyone hear aout bosch's high amp alt? I was wondering if they were gunna make one for the FD and if it would really do anything good for the car? I believe it runs like 200 amps?

 

It would be a waste of boost to put that high an alternater in this car ! Hell what's the point of an underdrive pulley if your going to put stuff in your car that requires the alt to provide more power ? ? ? ? You have the wrong kind of car. Jack

 

The horsepower loss is a moot point. Underdrive pullies are a waste of time and money.

Copied from another post of mine:

I have a 200A alternator in my car. It puts out 100A at idle. My car pulls 90A at idle with the following components on:

2 fuel pumps
4 electric fans
3 MSD Ignition Boosters (6As, I believe)
AC On
Microtech w/ dash display
Profec B Spec II
Eclipse HU
2 Amplifiers

I was killing my Red Top Optima battery before the alternator because the stock one couldn't keep up. The 200A alternator was made by a local guy who outsources to Stinger. It cost $450 and has a 1-year warranty. I've had it for about 2 months and have had no charging issues at all.

All the car's electrical components were drawing too much load so that the original alternator could not keep up. I purchased a Bosch rebuilt alternator which improved the situation slightly, but still was not sufficient. The stock 100A alternator only puts out about 40A at idle. All my car's electrical components draw 90A. If the alternator cannot supply the necessary power, the battery has to pick up the slack. If the alternator cannot even keep up with the ongoing demand, it will never be able to charge the battery. Therefore, the battery will just supply juice until it dies. I didn't HAVE to replace the alternator to drive the car, but I got really tired of asking for jump starts. Now, I have an alternator that produces 100A at idle which is enough to keep up with the ongoing current draw and still charge the battery.

 

Where's the other end of that coolant level sensor lead?

 

Hey piano, I have the same problem with mine. I can get the battery to fully charge. I was thinking that the battery was old and it just needed replaced. Well I replaced it and it is working fine right now. But I always had the alternator was at fault. There is also another option instead of spending $450 on an alternator. I had once taken the alternator of my Integra (long time ago) to a shop that upgrade them. My '89 Integra, I think used a 70-amp alternator and it got upgraded to 140 amps. It worked great for 3 years of hard used with a big stereo system. Every light on the car was brighter also including the headlights (which is a plus for us FD guys). I just wish I could find a shop around here that would do that.

Now for the part that I think it will be a problem, I think. How long have you had yours? I'm just wondering if the wiring will be able to handle it

 

What is the best way to test how many amp you're pulling? I can only test up to 20 with my multimeter so thats not going to work. When, in the upgrade process, would you recommend going with a bigger alt?

 

When you notice the stock one isnt making enough juice to keep your battery strong.

 

where can I get an alt. like this one. I definately need an upgraded alt. and this one looks sweet and I want one. pm me if you have any info on where to call for this. f#*k killing my red top and not getting enough juice. need one.

 

My wiring is upgraded. I have 2 4-gauge wires running from the alternator to my relocated battery behind the driver's seat. If you want one of these alternators, call Scott Glassburn at Mazsport at 800-538-9989 and tell him that Alan sent you.

 

good lookin out pianoprodigy. damn you have a lot of electrical load in that car but very nice. thanx again.

 

Who makes our alternator? Is it a Mitsu? Summitomo? Just called the local rebuilder and he can do it, but he may have to send the stator out and it would take some time. Anyone have a spare 3rd gen alternator they'd like to part with???
Michel

 

I forget which alternator our cars have, but it sucks. I did a lot of research and calling around, and I was told that the type of alternators in our cars can be "beefed up" to around 140A but the actual amps at idle will not be all that much better. My alternator puts out 100A at idle. See my post above for contact information to my source for the alternator.

 

holy msd boxes batman

 

Yeah on that note does that many msd boxes really help? I saw another guy put three in as well, just to boost your spark? Isn't one enough?

 

to run both leading and trailing you need 3 boxes

 

Ahhhhhh......that must be kind of expensive...isn't there a diffrent box you can pick up that will run all of the plugs?

 

Isn't there a diffrent MSD ignition amp you can get that will run all 4 from one box?

 

Underdrive pulleys are overrated IMO. The alternator is designed to be turned at RPMs as per the stock pulleys. When I had an underdrive pulley, my idle voltage would drop to 12.5 volts. Now the waterpmp, that' a different story...

I have a 300 AMP alternator on my car now. Consider this, you want the fuel pump to have as much juice as possible, along with the ignition system.

 

Autronic or M&W 4-channel CDI box.

 

Where did youget your 300 amp, and did you see your horse power fall like the other guys said?

 

Pianoprodigy, did that alt bolt right in? and do you have a make and model on it for us to look up?

-Scott

 

Been having this problem as well, I need a better alt So is this stock bolt on or is there other things we need to know about?

 

Oh and one more question, do you have to up the main fuse to handle the 200amps?

 

I do not know where he is getting his info. Why in the hell would the HP fall? By the way, I meant 200 AMP, not 300. I was looking at a 300AMP unit when I was shopping for one.

I got it from, here's the original email. I did not have to do any crazy bracket work. All I had to do was take a little material off of the waterpump housing where the stock alternator bolts on, and make the slot a little wider on the stock black bracket.

OK, we have done a hi amp installation for this car in our shop. It is a 160A unit but you won't get 130A @ idle from this unit. Using a GM frame 200A unit will get you this output. The problem lies in fitting a GM in the car. There is a bracket that will convert to a GM, but it will lift the alternator too high to work in your car. The solution would be to convert the existing bracket to a GM style bracket, thereby keeping a similar height profile. Sorry, but you're on your own for this bracket. I would start by getting a GM bracket from a junkyard so you have something to work with. You may be able to customize it to fit or use it as a template at a welding shop to build a new one.

Our #7806-200A is the unit I recommend. Cost $329.00+ shipping.

Cliff/ Startech Inc./ www.gostartech.com / 800-827-4244

 

What am I missing here? He put a 200 A in his car to supply more amps when he needs it. That does'nt mean that it is pumping 200 amps all the time and robbing HP all the time, Right?