First thanks for takin the time to read this.

I have had the car down for 2 months during that time I have done the following....

vac hose simplification...
hose tech hoses
relocated filter to front
polished damn near everything
new smic
m2 intake
intake pipes
dawes/home depot boost/per spool control
pwr rad
new trans cooler (one for a class a motorhome)
greddy elbow
vented crv and bov
bypassed tb coolant
remove aws, egr, acv, dt but kept the isc
airpump removal
resistor on the aws manifold
new manifold temp probe
cleaned injectors r/c engineering
new fpd.

I run an efi pms ecu on 10 12 and 15 psi

ok with that said. She started up fine and had to adjust the idle via the idle screw not the aas. Idled like a song but still around 1k rpms. I adjusted to as low as the cam would mechanically allow withe the wires jumped on G and TEN as per manual. The hold light was blinking and the engine light came on in a pattern after disconnecting the ground. Enginer light on then 2 blinks then on again followed by 8 blinks. Even so I ran the car (dumbass)

Last night very cold 25F drove and ran like a raped ape. Hit boost cut in 2/3 (auto) gear and then suddenly no power!! Stranded me in a busy intersection. It seem like it ran very rich sort of like starting in 5th gear...no uumph at all. Then at the stoplight it stalled. Tried starting it and it wound up for a while then finally started and would stall unless constantly on the gas.

So I adjusted the screw this time without a jump and got it to idle but motor shaking and very lumpy. So now I have the idle at 750 or so engine vibrating and when shift the auto stick into gear the car would die. Hold light still blinking and enginer light is constant on.

Cooling never got over 180F and boost was fine it seemed the manifold pressure was constant 17pis vac.

Limped home...wtf??!!! Please tell me I did not blow my motor. I later tried to start it in my garage and the boost guage showed opsi on the manifold! wtf?!

I think that I can boost ok but I am not sure. The motor does vibrate considerable at 750R's. Could I have scrtewed up the TPS? Plug go bad? ECU pms screwed up...could a loose vac hose do this?

Please help...hell if I could call and chat with you pm me your phone and I will call.

Here are some symptoms...idle was hunting at one time during the run before the loss in power...during the run I tried to use the hold button but just kept blinking...not sure if it was working during the run or not really dont think so. Had some mild smoking on the turbos maybe some coolant or oil not sure. Turbos were never removed jus the intake/y-pipe. Boosted fine before the loss 10 psi at low with 1.5 psi spike during transition. Took the car to 120 mph on highway ran ok. Now it is in my garage and have no idea where to start. Very worried since last time I looked at the boost guage, I was near 0psi on the guage. I did remove the crv and the vac hose and the vac hose release pressure. No odd smells although I did smell coolant (yes I know) while did not locate any leaks...have a fuel pressure guage and show about 38 psi at idle...


thank you

 

ok just read about the engine codes...long flash followed by the quick ones is "12" (throttle sensor "full range") then long flash followed by 8 fliks means "18" or throttle sensor ("narrow range") guess this means my tps is bad or wrongly set?

thanks

 

Yea, check the map sensor and make sure the hose is plugged in.

 

Unfortunately, the lost posts show he did this, and the MAP seemed fine. COver8, you had to pull the TPS off during your work, no? Did you re-adjust it when you put it back on as per the manual?

 

everyone wishes their blown engine could simply be a map sensor

Are you sure you adjusted the idle and not the TPS? the idle adjustment is underneath and behind the intake elbow. TPS is on top and in front of the throttle body by the throttle cable/assembly

this is from a perspective of standing in front of the car

 

I have rid the car of all the codes and blinking hold light...but did a "homemade" compression check:

the rear rotor showed a 38 psi on all rotors (the adapter was not screwed in all the way so I am sure it could haved leaked a bit.

the front rotor on the other hand, hardly bumped the pressure guage.

GAME OVER...THANKS FOR PLAYING

the motor was an atkins rebuild with 24k 24mo warranty...not sure if they will honor it since it is probably an apex seal that blew.

are there any quality reasons a motor would clip a apex seal outside of timing, detonation blah blah?

thanks everyone for your help

btw, i did not remove the tps only the throttle body...i adjusted the idle with the TAS not the AAS. I had to move it back as far as it mechanically would go getting 900-1000 Rs during idle. MAP sensor was connected although I did get error 13 (pressure sensor)

 

Bummer...

 

cover8: my cell phone is 617 669 4521. my name is bilal. feel free to call me up. i know exactly whats wrong with your car.

i had the same problem.

if you dont have time to call: what happened is that your car had the idle hunt (due to which) too much fuel was being supplied to the engine at points, which soaked up the plugs wet and you couldnt start the engine afterwards. the term is called "flooding".

there are how-tos on the web that tell you how to deal with flooding. but hopefully that might not be necessary.

your tps is all out of whack. you need to go to a how-to site for that aswell and adjust the voltages coming out of the tps. its not hard at all.

email me at redrotaryrock8@hotmail.com if you have further questions. you can even call me at my cell.

-bilal

 

I am sorry man, but please dont misinform people on this forum. it annoys the hell out of me. i know that your trying to help someone here, but please if your not sure about something dont act as if your the authority.

tps, which stands for throttle position sensor, is not located where you are claiming it to be. the tps is located behind the throttle body (not infront of it). what you are calling the tps is infact the idle control screw. and what you are refering to as the idle adjustment screw is infact the air bleed screw.

 

sorry cover8 i hadnt read your last post when i put my first post on. i read it just now, and its possible that your motor is actually blown.

if i were you, i would replace all 4 spark plugs with new ones and try running it. there is a chance (hopefully) that you screwed up somewhere in the "homemade" compression checking, and that the motor is still alive.

 

the violent shaking is the sign of a blown engine. when you lose an apex seal it throws it out of balance, thus, creating the shaking. Believe me I know.

he may be lucky, but i don't think so.

 

no harm no foul redrotary, you're right-- I was wrong. I haven't had a need to adjust the TPS or idle in a long time so it's a bit foggy. I just remember it's a big no-no to mess with the screw on top. The idle adjust is underneath the intake elbow, facing out horizontally. I got it all mixed up!

 

dang dude, that really sux! Hey, try checking out pineappleracing.com, they have really good quality motors and they come with a 65000 mile/5 year warrenty and you can get a streetported one for around $4000