help diagnose? car starts but dies, misfires? blue smoke... fml?
#1
help diagnose? car starts but dies, misfires? blue smoke... fml?
ok i dont even know where to begin with this...
i got the car up and running again yesterday, everything worked ok (minus running hot) later last night i turned it on twice to let people hear my car and turned it off..
here is where i think i may have flooded the engine? but idk.. i thought u can only flood the engine when its cold and turn it on and off quickly?
now today
then cranking it it wouldnt catch, sounds strong so i dont think its battery/alt/starter/etc
then i checked the plugs and the leadings were pooh. to test my theory i swapped leadings with trailings and the car fired up with a little hesitation...
now the car falls on its face, sometimes it will idle for 3-5 seconds then die out and to keep the car on you have to blip the throttle
i thought maybe it was a vacuum leak? but havent found one yet.. i resealed my block off plates but didnt use THAT much sealer.. could that be the culprit?
since swaping the plugs worked, i bought 4 new ones and have bur9eq on both leading and trailing...
fire up better! still have the idling dropping issue..
now the rest is kinda a loop sometimes it starts sometimes it doesnt, it sounds strong cranking but i feel like theres no spark? i tested the coils... trail i got 0 and i have the fc leading and i got 1 or 0 i forgot...
other symptoms the car died while i got it to run (seems like the coolant issue was resolved) didnt start, wouldnt start while on jumper cables, finally got it to run from a push start and some love blipping the gas to catch it..
on the way back there was a white with blue hue smoke trailing the car. also i was in 2nd gear at about 4000 rpm and it just sounded like it was just straight up back firing... got home let it sit did some test and came back and it managed to fire up on its own, got it into the garage where it died again...
i checked the coils with the ohm meter, the spark plug wires... everything seemed to check out.. so i ahve no clue where to look at next......
i have all the block off plates fc leading coil, fd trailing, brand new bur9eq
thats all i can think off... any help would be GREAT.
i got the car up and running again yesterday, everything worked ok (minus running hot) later last night i turned it on twice to let people hear my car and turned it off..
here is where i think i may have flooded the engine? but idk.. i thought u can only flood the engine when its cold and turn it on and off quickly?
now today
then cranking it it wouldnt catch, sounds strong so i dont think its battery/alt/starter/etc
then i checked the plugs and the leadings were pooh. to test my theory i swapped leadings with trailings and the car fired up with a little hesitation...
now the car falls on its face, sometimes it will idle for 3-5 seconds then die out and to keep the car on you have to blip the throttle
i thought maybe it was a vacuum leak? but havent found one yet.. i resealed my block off plates but didnt use THAT much sealer.. could that be the culprit?
since swaping the plugs worked, i bought 4 new ones and have bur9eq on both leading and trailing...
fire up better! still have the idling dropping issue..
now the rest is kinda a loop sometimes it starts sometimes it doesnt, it sounds strong cranking but i feel like theres no spark? i tested the coils... trail i got 0 and i have the fc leading and i got 1 or 0 i forgot...
other symptoms the car died while i got it to run (seems like the coolant issue was resolved) didnt start, wouldnt start while on jumper cables, finally got it to run from a push start and some love blipping the gas to catch it..
on the way back there was a white with blue hue smoke trailing the car. also i was in 2nd gear at about 4000 rpm and it just sounded like it was just straight up back firing... got home let it sit did some test and came back and it managed to fire up on its own, got it into the garage where it died again...
i checked the coils with the ohm meter, the spark plug wires... everything seemed to check out.. so i ahve no clue where to look at next......
i have all the block off plates fc leading coil, fd trailing, brand new bur9eq
thats all i can think off... any help would be GREAT.
#2
bumppp, anyonee need help BAD
has anyone had any issues with over premixing? could this be the factor? i put about 9 oz of premix before fill up... im not running an omp either... (shell v-power)
although if my mixture was too much my afr should have read lean and its in the 11-12 afrs
has anyone had any issues with over premixing? could this be the factor? i put about 9 oz of premix before fill up... im not running an omp either... (shell v-power)
although if my mixture was too much my afr should have read lean and its in the 11-12 afrs
#3
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,580
Likes: 567
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Benny, where is the car located? This kind of stuff is hard to diagnose over the internet. If it's not too much out of my way I might be persuaded to make a housecall sometime soon
#4
so i tried starting it again, i manage to get it started everytime but i gotta blip the throttle to feel it out... once its on it idles for a few seconds then dies...
my fpr is reading 28psi... is that normal? i was pretty sure it was set at 40psi....... it hasnt been touched so idk why it would be that low? also if my fuel pressure was low wouldnt my AFR's read leaner? does lower fuel pressure = less fuel?
my fpr is reading 28psi... is that normal? i was pretty sure it was set at 40psi....... it hasnt been touched so idk why it would be that low? also if my fuel pressure was low wouldnt my AFR's read leaner? does lower fuel pressure = less fuel?
#6
so i checked again and at idle its about 25psi in vacuum its around 20 psi..
theres also white/blue smoke coming from my turbo/lim area... im guessing the gasket isnt sealing properly or its not tight enough and going to assume that there is a vacuum leak from the LIM. thus reading lower fuel pressure because the fpr vacuum is hooked to the LIM... does that sound correct?
theres also white/blue smoke coming from my turbo/lim area... im guessing the gasket isnt sealing properly or its not tight enough and going to assume that there is a vacuum leak from the LIM. thus reading lower fuel pressure because the fpr vacuum is hooked to the LIM... does that sound correct?
#7
so i tighten up the lim some more and got a new clamp on the dp/turbo its still smoking from the hotside...
theres still a big cloud of smoke and when you accel it gets worse.... doesnt smell like fuel or coolant... maybe oil? to me it just smells like a normal dirty rotary....
im guessing it might have to do with the premix? i added about 9 oz of premix while i was nearly on empty then filled it up... drove about 15 miles and now its smoking heavily..... im trying to upload a video but everyhtings giving me problems... any suggestions what i could look at nexT?
theres still a big cloud of smoke and when you accel it gets worse.... doesnt smell like fuel or coolant... maybe oil? to me it just smells like a normal dirty rotary....
im guessing it might have to do with the premix? i added about 9 oz of premix while i was nearly on empty then filled it up... drove about 15 miles and now its smoking heavily..... im trying to upload a video but everyhtings giving me problems... any suggestions what i could look at nexT?
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#8
http://www.facebook.com/video/video....03735378&saved
sorry facebook is the only one that would let me upload the video...
sorry facebook is the only one that would let me upload the video...
#9
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,580
Likes: 567
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
I doubt it's the premix. I've seen problems before with powder coated parts not sealing properly and also contaminating oil and coolant passages with leftover residue from the powdering process.
#10
hmm maybe? the thing was i drove it for a good 30-40 min and there wasnt any smoke... then once i chanced the plugs it and got the car to be able to fire it it started smoking....
hmm but there arent any oil or coolant passages in the UIM/LIM (which i powdercoated)
i ceramic coated the hot side where it meets the dp but dont all ceramic coated parts coat that as well?
i didnt powdercoat any of the surfaces that mate with one another, and although a possibility, i highly doubt it (also because it didnt do this before when the car ran with the powder coated parts)
im pretty confident the issue is because oil is getting in the UIM/LIM/exahust
from searches ive found tired turbos leak oil but mine has mabye 3500 miles? with about 3000 from deals...
i dont have a catch can installed at the moment but the oil filler neck is capped on the side and open for the nipple facing down...
i do not have the pcv
no omp
rechecked oil level and was slightly over, now im at full
nothing else i can think of....
hmm but there arent any oil or coolant passages in the UIM/LIM (which i powdercoated)
i ceramic coated the hot side where it meets the dp but dont all ceramic coated parts coat that as well?
i didnt powdercoat any of the surfaces that mate with one another, and although a possibility, i highly doubt it (also because it didnt do this before when the car ran with the powder coated parts)
im pretty confident the issue is because oil is getting in the UIM/LIM/exahust
from searches ive found tired turbos leak oil but mine has mabye 3500 miles? with about 3000 from deals...
i dont have a catch can installed at the moment but the oil filler neck is capped on the side and open for the nipple facing down...
i do not have the pcv
no omp
rechecked oil level and was slightly over, now im at full
nothing else i can think of....
#11
could this be injectors? im still running the primary 550... when i crank the car injector duty only reads 1.7%.... and to actually get the car on i have to give it some gas.. that mixed with the fpr reading 26 at idle i feel like the car isnt getting enough fuel?
if the car didnt have enough fuel would it smoke??
afrs read abour 12.2
if the car didnt have enough fuel would it smoke??
afrs read abour 12.2
#12
- see my other post in your other thread........
Look at page F-97 of the FSM.
It is low like I said - 36-38 psi is OEM spec for no vac
Page F-104 is 28-32 running......
You have an adjustable FPR.... I can come unadjusted....
Don't complain when no one answers you right away if you don't even reply to your previous thread with suggestions in it.
You have two seperate problems most likely.
Look at page F-97 of the FSM.
It is low like I said - 36-38 psi is OEM spec for no vac
Page F-104 is 28-32 running......
You have an adjustable FPR.... I can come unadjusted....
Don't complain when no one answers you right away if you don't even reply to your previous thread with suggestions in it.
You have two seperate problems most likely.
#13
what vacuum are you idling at? 26 seems low for idle, bump fuel pressure with no vacuum to 40-43.5 psi (disconnect the vacuum hose to the FPR, and adjust accordingly) if you were tuned on the lower base pressure then you'll probably need to pull fuel throughout the map, you'll probably need to adjust it anyways.
#14
- see my other post in your other thread........
Look at page F-97 of the FSM.
It is low like I said - 36-38 psi is OEM spec for no vac
Page F-104 is 28-32 running......
You have an adjustable FPR.... I can come unadjusted....
Don't complain when no one answers you right away if you don't even reply to your previous thread with suggestions in it.
You have two seperate problems most likely.
Look at page F-97 of the FSM.
It is low like I said - 36-38 psi is OEM spec for no vac
Page F-104 is 28-32 running......
You have an adjustable FPR.... I can come unadjusted....
Don't complain when no one answers you right away if you don't even reply to your previous thread with suggestions in it.
You have two seperate problems most likely.
thanks for you help and all but how was i complaining?? i was just diagnosing more things and reporting back.....
and i agree they are seperate issues
what vacuum are you idling at? 26 seems low for idle, bump fuel pressure with no vacuum to 40-43.5 psi (disconnect the vacuum hose to the FPR, and adjust accordingly) if you were tuned on the lower base pressure then you'll probably need to pull fuel throughout the map, you'll probably need to adjust it anyways.
i will prob bump the fp up some just to be safe...
so i was talking to jim @ JPR Imports and i think it is the turbo that is causing the smoke.. i think its leaking.... probably due to me ceramic coating the hot side?
what do you guys think? (turbo is a bw s366)
#16
more pics...i kinda refuse to believe its my turbo so someone please give me some good news! lol...
the insides of the manifold seem to look dry so im kinda ruling the engine out... ill prob go get a bolt to plug the an fitting and run the car open header to verify...
there IS oil in the 1 & 4 runner of the UIM/LIM, and tb... when i took the IC piping off i didnt see any oil in the pipes...
the insides of the manifold seem to look dry so im kinda ruling the engine out... ill prob go get a bolt to plug the an fitting and run the car open header to verify...
there IS oil in the 1 & 4 runner of the UIM/LIM, and tb... when i took the IC piping off i didnt see any oil in the pipes...
#17
thanks =) theyre my shop shoes but dead *** lol
#20
Sorry - I must have read it wrong or been in a bad mood >< LOL
I don't see any pics of the exhaust manifold.
Check between the manifold and motor.
That's the easiest way - It looks like there was oil on your flange and that is bad.
What type of oil feed line are you using?
There are alot of threads in the single section about oil restriction requirements - yes in some scenarios you can have too much oil flow (goes past the seals in the turbo - more so on non-BB turbos).
To me it's either too much oil flow or as above - your turbo CHRA is not right.
The worst (I guess how you look at it) is the oil control rings.
Capping one of the lines from the oil fill neck is fine - You just can't cap both (to allow ventilation).
That's not blow by if it's on you manifold/turbo gasket.
BTW - if it's a fresh motor it could have twisted oil control seals or not spec'd but I wouldn't go down that road yet until you confirmed it's a motor problem. This can also happen from super heated oil or engine (most modern kits have teflon now and more resilient).
I bought my car with very similiar condition - was stock motor and the oil control seals let go..... and there was ALOT of carbon on those rotors
I don't see any pics of the exhaust manifold.
Check between the manifold and motor.
That's the easiest way - It looks like there was oil on your flange and that is bad.
What type of oil feed line are you using?
There are alot of threads in the single section about oil restriction requirements - yes in some scenarios you can have too much oil flow (goes past the seals in the turbo - more so on non-BB turbos).
To me it's either too much oil flow or as above - your turbo CHRA is not right.
The worst (I guess how you look at it) is the oil control rings.
Capping one of the lines from the oil fill neck is fine - You just can't cap both (to allow ventilation).
That's not blow by if it's on you manifold/turbo gasket.
BTW - if it's a fresh motor it could have twisted oil control seals or not spec'd but I wouldn't go down that road yet until you confirmed it's a motor problem. This can also happen from super heated oil or engine (most modern kits have teflon now and more resilient).
I bought my car with very similiar condition - was stock motor and the oil control seals let go..... and there was ALOT of carbon on those rotors
#21
Sorry - I must have read it wrong or been in a bad mood >< LOL
I don't see any pics of the exhaust manifold.
Check between the manifold and motor.
That's the easiest way - It looks like there was oil on your flange and that is bad.
What type of oil feed line are you using?
There are alot of threads in the single section about oil restriction requirements - yes in some scenarios you can have too much oil flow (goes past the seals in the turbo - more so on non-BB turbos).
To me it's either too much oil flow or as above - your turbo CHRA is not right.
The worst (I guess how you look at it) is the oil control rings.
Capping one of the lines from the oil fill neck is fine - You just can't cap both (to allow ventilation).
That's not blow by if it's on you manifold/turbo gasket.
BTW - if it's a fresh motor it could have twisted oil control seals or not spec'd but I wouldn't go down that road yet until you confirmed it's a motor problem. This can also happen from super heated oil or engine (most modern kits have teflon now and more resilient).
I bought my car with very similiar condition - was stock motor and the oil control seals let go..... and there was ALOT of carbon on those rotors
I don't see any pics of the exhaust manifold.
Check between the manifold and motor.
That's the easiest way - It looks like there was oil on your flange and that is bad.
What type of oil feed line are you using?
There are alot of threads in the single section about oil restriction requirements - yes in some scenarios you can have too much oil flow (goes past the seals in the turbo - more so on non-BB turbos).
To me it's either too much oil flow or as above - your turbo CHRA is not right.
The worst (I guess how you look at it) is the oil control rings.
Capping one of the lines from the oil fill neck is fine - You just can't cap both (to allow ventilation).
That's not blow by if it's on you manifold/turbo gasket.
BTW - if it's a fresh motor it could have twisted oil control seals or not spec'd but I wouldn't go down that road yet until you confirmed it's a motor problem. This can also happen from super heated oil or engine (most modern kits have teflon now and more resilient).
I bought my car with very similiar condition - was stock motor and the oil control seals let go..... and there was ALOT of carbon on those rotors
i agree all the flanges looks bad. and the oil feed is an unrestricted -4an which is what ive been told by by numerous knowledgable ppl who use bw turbos..
i think the blow by is in the UIM/LIM/TB and the rest is from the turbo.....
and no! dont tlel me its the motor! lol
#22
lol no prob.. i guess ill take the manifold off tomorrow? idk i was told to block off the oil feed and run the car open header and if oil doesnt come out can rule the engine out...
i agree all the flanges looks bad. and the oil feed is an unrestricted -4an which is what ive been told by by numerous knowledgable ppl who use bw turbos..
i think the blow by is in the UIM/LIM/TB and the rest is from the turbo.....
and no! dont tlel me its the motor! lol
i agree all the flanges looks bad. and the oil feed is an unrestricted -4an which is what ive been told by by numerous knowledgable ppl who use bw turbos..
i think the blow by is in the UIM/LIM/TB and the rest is from the turbo.....
and no! dont tlel me its the motor! lol
Since it's not an oil feed problem I would lean toward the motor.
If you can run the car with out the turbo that is one way I guess but unfortunately it's sometimes not that easy and it would have to be warmed up etc.....
Typically you don't have oil pressure unless your car is running and when your car is running your exhaust is flowing.
This blocks the oil from dripping too far down (against the manifold/engine).
From the pictures it looks like it was coming up to the turbo and exiting (exhaust and intake).
So if you just take your manifold off and you have oil between that and motor you can build your case on either turbo or engine.
If it's really bad and have been doing this for a while you'll have alot of carbon build up and can even see some oil on the apex seals when you rotate the engine by hand.
#25
Have you tried contacting the engine builder? better sooner than later.