Help!!!!!!
#1
Help!!!!!!
car turns and drivable under 4k rmp. Even if i try to rev higher than 4k, engine start making noise and stays @ 4k, car died 2 days ago and had it towed home,. Black smokes not too much comes out as i try to rev the engine higher than 4k, but will never pass 4k. What could be the problem? Need professional help. Thanks in advance...
#4
Originally Posted by audiobot7
Check your spark plugs.
Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
An improvement in your English writing skills might help us to better understand the problems with your car.
#5
How is the idle? Have you checked your MAP sensor? Have you searched these forums, or at least read the FAQ?
There is a huge troubleshooting section in the factory workshop manual. There is a sticky post at the top of the 3rd Gen section where you can download a copy.
By the way, I agree with cewrx7r1; this is not AIM chat or Myspace. Most of us are really sick of teenagers who aren't able to type or spell. If you can't take the time to type out an intelligent question, how do you expect to receive an intelligent answer?
I posted photos of the MAP sensor location over a year ago, but I don't feel like sending you a link anymore. Good luck changing your spark plugs, because I really doubt that is the cause of your problem.
-s-
There is a huge troubleshooting section in the factory workshop manual. There is a sticky post at the top of the 3rd Gen section where you can download a copy.
Originally Posted by AzEKnightz
car turns and drivable under 4k rmp. Even if i try to rev higher than 4k, engine start making noise and stays @ 4k, car died 2 days ago and had it towed home,. Black smokes not too much comes out as i try to rev the engine higher than 4k, but will never pass 4k. What could be the problem? Need professional help. Thanks in advance...
I posted photos of the MAP sensor location over a year ago, but I don't feel like sending you a link anymore. Good luck changing your spark plugs, because I really doubt that is the cause of your problem.
-s-
#7
Originally Posted by check_ur_six
^Good advice. That MAP sensor thread is HERE
As far as things goes, I shall check my map sensor when I get home this weekend. Thank you for the responses, and I will try to be more comprehensive so people can understand the situation better. If I offended anyone saying some stupid stuff, I might be exhausted or got a bad day. Overall, I appreciated for everything, hopefully I can figure out what's the problem and get it fixed.
By the way, to clarify whats going on.
My car = 1993 FD with 107k on body and less than 30k rebuilt.
What really happened was few days ago, when i drove home normally(not pushing the car or boosting the engine, driving below 2.5krmp), trying to back up into the garage and the car died on me. At that point I felt weird and thought maybe I slipped on the clutch. Then the day after, same thing happened. So on the third day, thats when it really died on me as I drove to pick up my gf from work and leaving the parking lot. It died and wouldnt start up. I thought I over heated the engine or whatsoever, but the thermometer showed the temp to be okie and everything seems fine. So i waited 30 mins for it to restart again, but it dies after i let go of the clutch. So I am forced to drive it above 2k rmp and not let it idle. Half way home and it really died on and cannot be fire back up again. So I parked near by rev the engine and tried to rev over4k RPM but it wouldnt do so, first it had a bit of white smoke, but later it turned black, but not too bad. Also engine shakes after I tried reving over 4k but it wouldnt allow me to do so. So what could really be the problem?
p.s. Sorry for the long paragraph and elaborating myself being too descriptive, but I wanted every1 to know the situation and so I hope this clarifies everything. I will be changing my spark plugs and wires as AudioBot mentioned. Let me know what else could cause this problem and I shall have it fixed/check asap. Thank you very much everyone, I appreciated.
-Eric
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#9
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Man, some of the symptoms don't look good. If the MAP hose is in place and the ECU has no stored codes, I'd look up the local rotary shop and get a compression check done.
Dave
Dave
#11
FD + 2JZGTE = WIN! **D
iTrader: (19)
Have you changed the plugs yet?
And to which plugs?
Keep it stock.
NGK 7's and 9's ONLY.
Side-note: I tried all 9's once... on a near-stock FD like yours and mine...bad idea. Use what Mazda made the car to use.
Re-post once you've at least done the plugs. Of the "problems" I experienced with my FD, and the one time where I thought I popped the motor...I had simply fouled the plugs. lol All 9's at that time. :P
And to which plugs?
Keep it stock.
NGK 7's and 9's ONLY.
Side-note: I tried all 9's once... on a near-stock FD like yours and mine...bad idea. Use what Mazda made the car to use.
Re-post once you've at least done the plugs. Of the "problems" I experienced with my FD, and the one time where I thought I popped the motor...I had simply fouled the plugs. lol All 9's at that time. :P
#13
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Originally Posted by whitey85mtu
also, when you replace the plugs, reset your ECU. It wouldn't hurt to try that as well. pull negative terminal, hold brake down for 1-2 minutes, replace negative cable. It can't hurt.
#14
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These guys are giving you good advice. Slow down, take a breather, check the plugs and then move to the MAP Sensor. I would get a compression test done on her also.
#16
Plugs and wires changed(Plugs were looking horrible, black tops), map MAP vacuum senor also checked. Well that didnt fix it, but it was able to make it to 6000rpm on neutral =) 2k more than before. I am wondering, could it be my turbos? Because I cant hear any spooling coming up, and usually it kicks in @ like 2.5k rmp, any more advices would be gladly apprecaited. Thanks
-Eric
-Eric
#17
No it's not Turbo'd
Well if you gained 2k rpm by changing plugs / wires I'd be shocked if it wasn't the Igniter / Coils since that's what you haven't changed in the Ignition System, the '94 FSM should tell you what resistance the coils should have, and if they're out of spec... that's your culprit, and if not, try swapping for someone else's ignitor... or try a HKS twinpower from someone, and see if that "Cleans" up your signal...
Gaining 2k rpm by justi changing plugs and / or wires points at bad eletrical things afoot....
I'm certain someone will argue this...
-DC
Gaining 2k rpm by justi changing plugs and / or wires points at bad eletrical things afoot....
I'm certain someone will argue this...
-DC
#20
Full Member
iTrader: (3)
I had the same problem would not go over 4k, changed the plugs, igniter, checked the map, and had no codes come up. I had the car at KDR and Dave couldn't figure it out either so swapped out the ecu and, bam it fixed it havent had a problem since then and that was back in march.
#23
You need to stop asking so many questions! Does your mother still feed you smashed bananas with a spoon?!? Why haven't you learned to help yourself by now?
The answers to all of your questions are in the factory shop manual. It's pinned at the top of this forum, but here's a link for you:94 FSM's available for download . You should be able to read the entire troubleshooting section in 1-2 hours. It covers TONS of problems, and all the things that can cause them.
If you're too lazy to spend that much time learning how your car works, you can even stop and take a break when your brain gets tired.
-s-
The answers to all of your questions are in the factory shop manual. It's pinned at the top of this forum, but here's a link for you:94 FSM's available for download . You should be able to read the entire troubleshooting section in 1-2 hours. It covers TONS of problems, and all the things that can cause them.
If you're too lazy to spend that much time learning how your car works, you can even stop and take a break when your brain gets tired.
-s-
#24
Originally Posted by scotty305
You need to stop asking so many questions! Does your mother still feed you smashed bananas with a spoon?!? Why haven't you learned to help yourself by now?
The answers to all of your questions are in the factory shop manual. It's pinned at the top of this forum, but here's a link for you:94 FSM's available for download . You should be able to read the entire troubleshooting section in 1-2 hours. It covers TONS of problems, and all the things that can cause them.
If you're too lazy to spend that much time learning how your car works, you can even stop and take a break when your brain gets tired.
-s-
The answers to all of your questions are in the factory shop manual. It's pinned at the top of this forum, but here's a link for you:94 FSM's available for download . You should be able to read the entire troubleshooting section in 1-2 hours. It covers TONS of problems, and all the things that can cause them.
If you're too lazy to spend that much time learning how your car works, you can even stop and take a break when your brain gets tired.
-s-
#25
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
The FAQ covers frequently asked questions only. Many people simply remove the secondary air system as the first sign of trouble. If you intend to keep it, at least that means replacement used parts are very easy to find.
If you haven't searched for "split air" or "code 30*" (the star makes a two character term into a 3 character term) or similar, you should pursue that.
But most of all, it's time to refer to the Factory Service Manual and follow the procedure specified for code 30.
Dave
If you haven't searched for "split air" or "code 30*" (the star makes a two character term into a 3 character term) or similar, you should pursue that.
But most of all, it's time to refer to the Factory Service Manual and follow the procedure specified for code 30.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 08-09-06 at 06:39 PM.