Hello, Tell me about this 93 RX7 I just bought
11-02-04 | 07:01 PM
#26
sold--no longer in debt
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,659
Likes: 11
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Originally Posted by ghettostamps
Quick question, where is the apex seal located, and how hard is it to fix that. Sorry for the noobie question, but it had to be asked. What is the normal compression for the engine, what's acceptible and whats not?
11-02-04 | 07:09 PM
#27
addicted to lounge
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 2
From: ny,LI
how wide are the rims? I might be interseted in a trade. My tires have only a few k on them. See if you can get me a pic: patkenney2001@yahoo.com
11-02-04 | 07:29 PM
#29
Originally Posted by ghettostamps
I can\t say thanks enough for all the info you guys are tossing out there, it's like a great mystery novel to me, i cant get enough. So the first thing on the list is to lose the pre-cat and hit up the dp. Replace hardened hoses with silicone or not, whichever will last longer.
Quick question, where is the apex seal located, and how hard is it to fix that. Sorry for the noobie question, but it had to be asked. What is the normal compression for the engine, what's acceptible and whats not?
Quick question, where is the apex seal located, and how hard is it to fix that. Sorry for the noobie question, but it had to be asked. What is the normal compression for the engine, what's acceptible and whats not?
I'm telling you. Go ahead and fight to get the precat off (it's not like after 100k miles the bolts are not fused on there
), and spend the time locating and replacing hoses. Then after like 5- 10k more miles when the engine dies you can take off the stuff that you spent hours putting on...The only reason to put on a DP is to increase engine lif. Yours already has 100k miles on it. How much life do you think it's going to give it?
Primary things:
Reason to get the boost gauge: You want to know if you have a boost leak.
Reason to replace AST: If that sucker blows there goes your engine. BTW the AST is that plastic container with a radiator cap that sits right by the intercooler. If that sucker is green it's gonna go blow soon. THe lighter the green the closer you are to coolant leakage.. The AST was originally black just like all of the other plastic pieces by the way.
11-02-04 | 07:54 PM
#30
Originally Posted by cloead
Apex seals are comparable to piston rings in a piston engine.. To replace requires you to pull the motor out of the car, and take it apart.
Dave
11-02-04 | 08:16 PM
#31
Full Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: ohio
this is what i found for compression 
The 1993 shop manual calls for 690 kPa {7.0 kgf/cm2, 100 psi} minimum @ 250 RPM with the maximum difference between chambers of 150 kPa {1.5 kgf/cm2, 21 psi} @ 250 RPM. These numbers will vary somewhat based on altitude, battery and starter condition, and whether the test is performed to the letter of the instructions.
The 1993 shop manual calls for 690 kPa {7.0 kgf/cm2, 100 psi} minimum @ 250 RPM with the maximum difference between chambers of 150 kPa {1.5 kgf/cm2, 21 psi} @ 250 RPM. These numbers will vary somewhat based on altitude, battery and starter condition, and whether the test is performed to the letter of the instructions.
11-02-04 | 08:51 PM
#32
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: East Coast
Originally Posted by ghettostamps
First off, I want to say Hi, Hello to everyone out there.
I just lost my VW GTI VR6 to an engine fire. It was fickle and it broke a lot, and I loved it, even when it wasn't running.
I'm not new to tuning, but i am new to the rotary engines, well not completely new. I just came across a 93 RX7 with a lot of miles on it. 100k to be exact, but I got it at a steal, and i love learning and fixing cars not to mention I've always wanted an on going project.
That being said, I KNOW this car will break, I KNOW I will have to fix it alot, and I KNOW that this car is more of a toy than a family car.
Here are the specs, the car has 100k miles on it, it was never modded, nothing was replaced, I test drove it and it was awesome. I understand that there are a couple of things that need to be done in order to keep the longeivty of this car, it uses no MAF and therefore any creep in boost could cause detonation. It's getting colder out, and I'm bringing this car up to boston. So it will be very cold soon and the boost will start to creep.
I wanted some recommnedations as to what to do first. Here were some of my thoughts, as I've been reading around to try and keep up with my homework.
1) ECU upgrade to continually monitor fuel mapping, etc
2) Larger radiator, or possibly lose the air conditioning system
3) Boost and fuel guage to monitor systems
4) Turbo timer to prevent coking as with any turbo
5) Replace seals and fluids often
6) Always wait to get the car warmed up before boosting or revving
7) Don't think about modding until I\ve done the above
Am I being too cautious? Am I on the money? Did I forget something? Its just the car has a lot of miles on it, which actually has the cleanest dirt free engine bay I\ve ever seen, but anyway what needs to be done first and how and where can I get these things done or replaced cheap?
Im also curious, how much would a rebuild be?
Thanks for looking, and again whats up to all my new fellow 3rd gen owners
I just lost my VW GTI VR6 to an engine fire. It was fickle and it broke a lot, and I loved it, even when it wasn't running.
I'm not new to tuning, but i am new to the rotary engines, well not completely new. I just came across a 93 RX7 with a lot of miles on it. 100k to be exact, but I got it at a steal, and i love learning and fixing cars not to mention I've always wanted an on going project.
That being said, I KNOW this car will break, I KNOW I will have to fix it alot, and I KNOW that this car is more of a toy than a family car.
Here are the specs, the car has 100k miles on it, it was never modded, nothing was replaced, I test drove it and it was awesome. I understand that there are a couple of things that need to be done in order to keep the longeivty of this car, it uses no MAF and therefore any creep in boost could cause detonation. It's getting colder out, and I'm bringing this car up to boston. So it will be very cold soon and the boost will start to creep.
I wanted some recommnedations as to what to do first. Here were some of my thoughts, as I've been reading around to try and keep up with my homework.
1) ECU upgrade to continually monitor fuel mapping, etc
2) Larger radiator, or possibly lose the air conditioning system
3) Boost and fuel guage to monitor systems
4) Turbo timer to prevent coking as with any turbo
5) Replace seals and fluids often
6) Always wait to get the car warmed up before boosting or revving
7) Don't think about modding until I\ve done the above
Am I being too cautious? Am I on the money? Did I forget something? Its just the car has a lot of miles on it, which actually has the cleanest dirt free engine bay I\ve ever seen, but anyway what needs to be done first and how and where can I get these things done or replaced cheap?
Im also curious, how much would a rebuild be?
Thanks for looking, and again whats up to all my new fellow 3rd gen owners
looks like you're on our way to having a great car dude, but listen to what the guys say and first and foremost, get the gauges and have your pre-cat replaced with a downpipe
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