Okay so after having my car shipped from ASI racing in FL my car doesn't start, it doesn't seen to be flooding, but i have to start it with carb cleaner everytime. I have to take off the two vaccum lines on the upper intake manifold that lead right into the primary intake runners and spray carb cleaner for about 15sec's. this is crazy i started before i took the car from ASI, granted they were pissed i took the car and it sat the following night, i then took the car in the morning, but not starting it first due to them doing some fuel line replacement.

So after the car got to Alaska, i replaced all the fuel lines from the Fuel pump and back, im running 850pri and 1600sec on a microtech LT8S. The engine isn't flooding but i am getting spark, i've turned the fuel pressure down to 30psi to try to start but nothing.

So there's the problem, i've tried searching for this but couldn't find anything on the forum. Any help would be appreciated

 

So your getting pressure but no go? I would pull the leading plugs and have someone turn the engine over an see if you can smell any fuel vapor. MAKE SURE THE SPARK PLUG LEADS ARE OUT OF THE WAY. Your ecu may also not be pulsing the injectors.

 

Yep i've tried that, pulled both the leading plugs, and you can smell fuel vapor... And im pretty sure the injectors are pulsing, because once the car starts up it runs fine... Very odd

 

which hoses do you spray carb fluid in the big rubber ones coming off the air box?

 

He said the two nippes on UIM.

 

what are nippes and uim ???

 

lmao are u serious?

well the nipples are on the UIM (upper intake manifold) where usually if u have a boost gauge, u would hook up the hose to, one of the other one goes to the bov i believe

 

Yup. Passenger side. Can't miss'em. Centered on the UIM. One goes to the BOV, one is capped if you don't have a boost guage.

 

well im running the boost bov and FPR guage right off the UIM behind the throttle plates, the two little ones on the bottom that stick out towards the alternator. I used these because my FPR and BOV are closer to these vaccum sources.

 

isnt ASI out of business now?Sorry for the subject change.

 

yeah because the owner scammed so many people out of their money

 

Yeah and thats why im in this situation, so im really wondering if their is something someone can do to a 7, to not get it to start.... It ran when i got there, but since it left its never started by itself

 

well i guess im gonna send the primaries off to be cleaned and blue printed maybe they just need it....

 

Don't use starting fluid to start your engine, it will deteriorate the rubber seals in the motor.

 

ohhh okay.... well i got my injectors back their all good, one was leaking little but they fixed it... anyways i was talking with one of the locar rotary guys and he seems to think that it might be something sending a signal not to crank or not sending a signal to crank... ie ground or missing wire????? so i guess i'll have to just buy a new wiring harness for the microtech and have one done.....

 

How could a faulty harness possibly be corrected by spraying in carb cleaner??

Keep looking....

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Checked Fuel Pressure?
Checked Compression??

Because I sure as hell would be doing all of those before I started replacing anything at all...

Good luck with it!

 

it could be it's not getting a clean signal from the crank sensor while cranking over... i was up there and even i couldn't figure it out...fired right up with a little brakecleen, but just wouldn't hit on its own.

i didn't smell gas when it was cranking, but one of the injectors was leaking??? that one STILL has me scratchin' my head.

 

well got the injectors back all good... did some tesing with the injectors and they cycle using a signal tester, but still no changes, and i have fp at 35, and compression isn't an issue Guitarjunkie28 can atest to this, and yeah theirs no vaccum leak either, all the lines on the lim uim are either plugged or used.... i too was also thinking this.... Real strange

 

how would i be able to check to make sure its getting a good crank signal??????

 

osilloscope at the ecu.... :/

 

bump base fuel pressure to 40psi

 

didn't do any good when we tried that.

 

i'm gonna do some checking on the starter cut relay, its independant from the injector and coil packs but does affect the CPU and EL unit.... :-/

 

Ended up being two wires that run to the Fuel Pump controller needed to be swapped, it wouldn't get voltage when starting.. swapped and it started right up... thanks for all the input guys

 

figures...the one place we didn't look.

i was guilty of not taking my own advice: NEVER TRUST ANYONE ELSE'S WORK!!!!!!!!!

but congrats on getting it all good! swap the diff out and we'll break more drivetrain parts next summer