Ok I am just trying to gather info on this... this is what I've heard about the manifold. I would like the opinion of those of you who have used them, and can tell the difference they make.

1.) 13% Better flow over stock ports
2.) Allows Even Flow both front and rear rotors

I talked to a guy from GZ and he told me... they did a temperature test on the air going into the runner from both front and rear rotor. Being that the rear rotor has straight runners, and the front rotor has curved runners allowing the air to heat up more before entering the manifold and also leaning it out....

The difference in temperature between the front and rear runners were 250 Degrees Fahrenheit.... which was enough for me to make up my mind.

I hear the car drives a lot smoother, and it makes the tune a bit easier also since the flow is equal.

Anyway please post your comments, and any facts that aren't so obvious.

Thanks!
-Darren-

 

Ive had my eyes on this manifold for a long time,,,,,looks interesting,,,so im alos keen to hear any input on people that use it

 

I am getting one. Xavier at RX7Store will be port matching it to my halfbridge.

 

Yeah I got one on the way too, it will go on after the breakin of the engine, before the boost tune.

 

250F difference between front and rear rotor intake air? Really think about that statement. I'd say they might have seen that but it was likely due to something like the thermocouples being heated by the turbo, etc.

I think it is *HIGHLY* unlikely that you could get that large of temp difference in an intake manifold due to the runner length only.

With a good IC and a cool day you would be looking at intake temps around 100F coming out of the IC. All the intake air will warm up slightly as it travels through the intake manifold. I guess they are claiming a intake air temp of over 350F on one rotor!?! 350F!

Sounds crazy doesn't it?

If not I have some snake oil for you.

 

I think he's talking about EGT difference at the exhaust runners of each rotor. Some of the temp difference can be fixed by adding fuel to the injectors for the lean rotor but how many people have dual EGT thermocouples to know how much?

 

Hot air makes the rotor rich rather than lean (less oxygen in hot air per unit volume than cool air). But hot air is also more likely to lead to detonation.

I agree those sound like EGT differences or a problem with the measurement (hot turbo next to thermocouple) than an actual air temp difference. That is not say that there isn't a difference, but a 250F degree diff in intake air temps doesn't make sense.

-Max

 

GZ Lim is deffinetly a nice buy if you have the extra $ for it. Friend of mine has one installed on with hi setup has no complaints. Yes tuning will be alil bit easier since both rotors will recieve the same amount of flow. He has a thread somewhere on the forum look up "RX794" if interested or PM him..

 

This is why I started the thread, cause I misinterpret things and make myself look like an idiot. Hah!

So, 250 Degrees in EGT would be correct.... since those reach 700 Plus Degrees C....

Also, that would make the rear rotor more likely to blow... not the front.

Thanks Max!


These guys at GZ are nuts. He had his FD with 4 1600 Injectors, and he put 3200cc in the PFC settings using a datalogit, base fuel pressure was about 78psi rather than 38psi just to get enough pressure to run fuel for all those injectors. He was using this huge *** fuel pump (cost $1000 for the pump)... but he was able to switch to using 2 regular performance fuel pumps, (i.e. Walbro, etc) and switch back to 38psi base pressure. A lot of people told him it wouldn't be done (pfc wouldn't allow it, etc) but these guys get rediculous with the tuning and boost. He claimed his GT42r setup was doing well over 600hp... 675hp or somewhere around there with 30+ lbs of boost.. and they still wanted to crank it up more.

Anyway thanks for your input guys, keep it coming!

-Darren-

 

can someone tell me how far out from the block it protrudes?

darren, i'll measure the space between your turbo and LIM to make sure there's enough room. your turbo already goes into the strut tower a bit, so we can't move it any further away from the block.

i know on mine, i couldn't use this manifold because my turbine housing is too close. we'll have to check yours.

 

i eyeballed it earlier and you've got like 7-8mm tops... and that's where it would actually make contact. that lim is out for you unless you change your turbo or manifold.

 

if you are blowing loot on equal length intake runners...don't you think you should have equal length exhaust runners aswell? <--only way to take full advantage of EQUAL length air paths.

More backpressure on one rotor can be dangerous as well, no?

 

Isn't the RE intake manifold equal length (not extension manifold)? I have a picture at work with a block that has the intake and extension manifold mounted. I'm not shure if it's an RE short block or an REW. It's absolutely beautiful. I wanted to do the GZ but I plan on retaining my ACV.

Guitarjunkie - Atihun has pics of it mounted in the single turbo section.

 

Yes, I am also curious about the fitment... anyone have some input?

 

This is a close call...

Here are pics of ATIHUN's setup and his GT35r

 

Doesnt the coolant path thru the motor, ensure that the rear housing gets coolant after it has passed the front housing, ensuring hotter EGTs on the rear rotor.

 

Is this intake manifold from a Cosmo 13bRE? I know the extension manifold is. I don't remember where I got the pic from. It's absolutely beautiful though
I want to hump it like a horny puppy!

 

Yeah, thats one beaitufl manny. Not sure if it's from a cosmo though.

 

I was looking into this too... has anyone dyno'd a before and after?

 

All I know is that G/Z needs to work on there customer service and sales... So far "my" experience is that there are rude and slow... I know these are harsh words but again this is my experienced. I don’t know if this is how they are to everyone, but again this is my experience. Then again they are the only ones that make an aftermarket LIM so I guess they can be that way since they own the market....

 

does they have web site'where can i get the gz manifold?

thanks

 

already find it.
think is a killer upgrade but i think if you upgrade the lim you should run also a bigger uim for equal air,correct me if im wrong but is just a thought.
thanks.

 

Thats the cleanest damn engine bay I've ever seen! How many toothbrushes did you go through??!

 

Once you go that path it's vicious circle... Bigger Lim -> Bigger UIM -> Bigger Throttlebody -> Bigger IC -> Bigger Turbo, etc ... etc... etc....

The GZ LIM is supposed to make those kinds of numbers, I personally did not see any improvement, I was aiming for 400 rwhp, possibly 425 with the LIM, on the setup listed below, and the Highest numbers I ever got was 309 RWHP.

That's not to say that this was due to the LIM, I suppose without it I could have made less... but I had a hard enough time to get that and then the motor let go, and it was all over anyhow... so those hoping to reduce detonation, might as well go out and get themselves a set of ButtPlugs(Anti Det. Device), as well since it takes only one system to fail. All the crap you stick on to make things hold together... Knock sensors etc... all don't matter if the failure is severe enough....

I have a setup of GZ LIM(Polished), Stock UIM(Polished), (2)1680's with fuel Rail, GT35/40 (Busted Turbine Wheel($1000.00 to replace) and all the parts for it, 46mm Teal wastegate, manifold etc.... to connect to midpipe. I'm looking for

$250 For LIM.
$1500 for turbo Kit.
$200 For Injectors / Rail

Or take the whole thing for $1800 Incl. UIM etc...

Link to Site with Pictures....
http://member.newsguy.com/~dncrosby/...urbo/Turbo.htm

 

Whoa i dont know if i read that right, but if your selling your ground zero LIM for 250.... ill take it!!!!

p/m sent