hey guys; it has come that time when i have to rebuild due to a busted water seal. it's been a nice run after 3 years of owning the car on a JDM engine. surprised it lasted this long actually. either way this is what i need to know.

i am planning on doing the rebuild myself and sending out the housings and intermediate plates for porting work. i have heard of different levels of street poring then you get to the point i guess where it's a bridgeport. what's the different of a street port vs. a heavy street port? just the size of the porting work?

also, to get to 10k rpm, will a PFC work or do i need a more powerful ECU. i havent gotten an aftermarket one yet because i was actually waiting to rebuild my car when it broke so i could plan everything down to a T. i know that i am going to need to get the rotating assembly dynamically balanced, you guys know of a good place to do this?
i've heard of the new billet aluminium rotors, which are just awesome but unfortunately out of my price range unless i just save for the next 5 years. will anything have to be done to the stock rotors other than being balanced?

any apex seals recommendations to get to that rpm?

i know i'm going to need a massive fuel system for this so i'm planning on that. prolly need a 4 inch exhaust, or does it really matter?

any other advice would be great b/c i cant think of anything else right now and i know i'm prolly missing something. thanks guys.

 

10K is going to be too much for the ancillary drive components like alternator, water pump, power steering pump (if you have it) a/c, etc unless you figure out a way to underdrive them, keep in mind.

Good luck with your project!

 

don't have a/c or p/s

 

alt. You'll need to have a high enough output alternator to be under-driven and still feed your electrical system.

Also, You will run into things like the intake manifolds not being conducive for that rpm. Also, Porting will be very important. You can only have so broad of a powerband. By aiming for that High of rpm, you will most likely end up with a peaky powerband. And the stock twins or even BNR's wont even be useful past 8500.

Are you building this just to say you can run 10k rpm?

If you are staying with twins or BNR's, build your car to have a broad powerband that works with the stock manifolds and equipment. 10k is just not going to happen with any sort of budget. Or it will, but it will be sub-par for the performance you are probably hoping for.

And your fuel system doesn't really have much to do with RPM. It has to do with Duty cycle. higher boost is what will push a fuel system.

 

i kinda don't know if i want to do this....i was just throwing it out there to see what it would take. i'm thinking about going EWP anyways and relocating the alternator to side mount.

my ultimate goal is to make the most HP utilizing the sequential system. fun fun.
i think the record right now is around 400 but that's pretty good and i'd be happy with that.

i really want that F1 sound which is just dead sexy

 

you're going to need a lot of money and 3 rotor+ to get that "f1 sound"

 

but if i got 10k on a 2 rotor it would make it

 

Not exactly the same thing, but it will give you an idea on what you need to do to the motor for higher revving:

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/12000rpm-crank-451889/

 

thats na 2/3rotor rpm bro....

 

yup, i think i'm gonna trash this idea right now

 

If you want reliable 400hp out of the stock twins and a BROAD powerband from low to high range... go BNR stage 3's. And keep them sequential. You probably won't hit 400 without spending more money later, but 380 sequentially is going to be a fun ride.

The setup I am using:
BNR Stage 3s
Streetported motor (by Pineapple Racing)
Xcessive Lower Intake Manifold
(Still working out what I am going to do for IC and Rad)
Planning out EWP


And don't forget your basic supporting mods for 350+ hp.

Besides, 8k RPM still sounds sexy and a good custom exhaust builder can actually alter the tone quite a bit.

If you want F1 sound... Get a sportbike.

But really, stock twins or BNRs are going to run out of breath at anything over 8500 rpm. Your power will drop off sharply. Use what you have and capitalize on the strengths of your base platform if you are doing a build on a budget.

I have thousands into mine already, and will be dumping thousands more before I am finished.

 

Used small single or BNRs will be your best bet. 400-420 rwhp will get you trapping in the mid 120s and that is a fast enough car for most people. No need to turn 10000rpm unless you are shooting for crazy rwhp numbers, which gets more expensive than a couple billet rotors

 

2pc eshaft with center bearing

lightened and balanced rotor assembly

semi peripheral and full bridgeport with custom intake manifold... $$$

engine stud kit

nrs seals (lighter)

^^something like that plus a huge turbo is what sporty uses on his 6.97sec 13B, 980whp at 10500rpm