I'm in the process of doing so turbo troubleshooting. I am replacing the charge control, turbo control, charge relief, and turbo control (vac) solenoids.

The turbo control (vac) and charge relief are easy to get to but the last two look to be a PITA.

Unfortunately, all of the old archieve FAQ's no longer have photos. They mention that I can remove 3 12mm bolts and tilt the rack up and out. I removed one of the bolts in this pic...but where are the others?

I have dgeesaman's write up but it still wasn't clear as to where to remove the bolts. Any tips appreciated.

 

Also, I noticed that there was no zip ties on my silicone hoses. There was something mentioned in an old post about the pressure hoses shouldn't get zip ties but rather hose clamps?

I was just planning on zipping everything.

 

Since I'm in the area I guess I can replace the FPD and relocate the AIT to the greddy elbow ala Cripsy.

Any thought on if I would have any adverse affect with the WI nozzle being so close to the relocated AIT?

 

found one for you(red) and a question(blue)

 

Removing the rack is VERY weird and tricky - there are a number of screws that hold it to the fuel rails, and it's a puzzle to try and get apart. I still haven't gotten the trick down yet. Most likely removing the assembly with the fuel rails as well would likely be way easier.

IMHO, zip ties/clamps are overkill. Use good 3.5mm silicone line, and it won't come off. The only place I could see using a clamp is the 6mm line for a boost controller - if one of those pops off, you could have overboosting, so some insurance is a good idea.

Dale

 

I think zipties are more likely to split your vacuum lines. Just heat cycle them good. They wont pop off.

 

Agreed. Zip ties or clamps are totally unnecessary except for a few key locations...like the MAP sensor connection.

 

Zip ties or super glue never hurt, but aren't really needed. Of course I haven't had a nest in years.

 

Ok..no zip ties then! Good for the knuckles.

Barban, I already removed the one that you circled in red. The Spark plug wire is just covering it. Where are the other two?

And what is your question about the blue circle? Is ther a bolt under there?!!?

 

Nah, I broke the blue solenoid and I dont know what to call it so I can buy a new one to replace it

I have no clue what else is holding that rack in there except maybe those screws but I really dont know.

 

And those screws are going to have to be drilled out, cause they will strip like a ****!!!

 

all you need to do is. unscrew the 3 philips screws in the front and the 3 in the back. The ones in the back are hard to get to. But you can get a small philips bit for a drill and put it i a small socket and a 1/8 drive wratchet. That works good for the back ones. for the front ones you need to remove the alternator.

heres a pic of were the screws are at.

 

That's the turbo control solenoid (vacuum) pn# N3a1-18-741

 

You Are The Man.

 

Thanks....those are the ones that people hate removing and replace with hex bolts. Dgeesaman mentioned that he removed the rack in total. That was what I was hoping to do. People mention 3 12mm hex bolts and tilting the rack up to get access to the philips screws easier....

I would love to try this first before busting my knuckles trying to get those screw out (which have loctite on them from the factory)

 

You can have my old one. You would just need a mity vac and 12v to test it.

I'm replacing the 4 main solenoids that give the sequential system troubles....

*plus this is helping me learn about an area of the car that is a big blackhole knowledge wise for me

 

thanks Dale. And BTW, thanks for your write up on remove the UIM. I had that sucker off in under an hour! Great write up!

I was just hoping to find a similar one for the solenoid rack. I'll most likely post a write up after this is all done.

 

Heres the bolts

 

sweet! going to spray some pb blaster on it (screws)...and give it a shot tomorrow.

 

If you're just changing a couple of solenoids I'd leave the rack in there. Even when I remove the whole rack I take out the solenoids first to avoid breakage. The trick is to use long/thin screwdriver(s) to disconnect the electrical connectors and push down the end of the plastic latch under the solenoid that clips it to the rack. Once you get the first one on the bottom row loose using long thin tools, you'll have room to do the rest with your fingers.

If you need to remove the rack (fuel injector work, OM lines, etc), I remove the bolts shown by rx7what and disconnect the fuel lines that tie it to the fuel rail. PB Blaster and the right pliers are important to getting the fuel lines loose - sometimes the fuel lines are a real bear.

I know it's possible to remove the screws facing forward/backward and take out just the piece of metal holding the row of solenoids, but I've never done it.

Dave

 

Dave,

thanks...I'll give it a shot...I'm just unsure how I am going to seat the hose to the solenoid from that enters in on the passenger side. Seems to be NO room to push that on.

 

Agreed. I have NEVER had a hose blow off and mine are just slipped on.

7racer, all the small phillips screws are easy to remove if you use a phillips bit in a ratchet. No removal of the alternator necessary. The first time you take the rack out is terrifying. You swear you'll forget to hook something back up The trickiest part is unplugging/plugging solenoids. I carefully reach in there with a screwdriver to release the catch and then pry the connector away from the solenoid with a second screwdriver.

I have a long, curved set of needle nose pliers. The FD is the only thing I have ever worked on that requires them!

 

really? leave your garage door open...I'm taking them!

 

Sit down first, they're expensive:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33203











:P

Dave

 

I had good luck using the #2 Phillips bit on a ratchet technique. With the ratchet, you can apply pressure to keep the bit in the screw head and then carefully turn the screw.

If that doesn't work (or you already stripped them), grab the screw head tightly with some Vise-Grip pliers (as if you were putting a wrench on a bolt, not like a screwdriver) and turn those to break the screws loose. Vise-Grips with nice sharp teeth help.

-Max