So, I'm going to be installing an Aero 340 fuel pump soon and I wanted to know if it was okay for me to cut the feed pipe in the hanger and use rubber fuel hose to connect the pump and hanger. Picture with an example of what I'd like to cut.



I don't see how else I'd be able to install the pump given what I have.

Second question, what's this and can I remove it? (Single turbo)

Thanks.

 

Answer to first question...you will need to have a barb on the pipe after you cut it to prevent the hose from being pushed off at pressure.

Second question...thats coolant return from throttle body, yes it can be eliminated.

 

How is the pump installed normally without cutting it? The outlet at the top seems like way too loose when going into that pipe. Unless I'm missing something. Like some kind of adapter boss..

 

you need the little plastic o-ringed piece from the oem pump, that's how I installed a walbro255 (similar to the A340) and later a walbro 400.

 

Lol. Well...that's definitely what I'm missing. I wonder how the hell im supposed to get another.

 

You dont need a barb, just cut it off and use a liberal amount of line ran up and over the hardline. Make SURE that you have high pressure SUBMERISBLE fuel line. Stick two hose clamps on it side by side. I used fuel pressure compression clamps t-bolt type. Also consider making your own/installing bulk head connectors and running thicker wire with new spades to the pump directly. The factory wiring and pins in the factor connector to the tank cover SUCK HORRIBILY.

 

Thanks for this info! I just finished cutting it off and smoothing it out. My remaining issue is mounting the bottom of the pump where the inlet is. Won't fit properly with the bracket.
I will look into making new bulkhead connectors seeing as I'm doing the pump rewire.
Thanks!

 

So this is what I've come up with in twenty minutes.


Probably going to put another bolt and nut around the back to make sure it can't move too much. From there I'll see if I think the bottom will need supporting. I hope not because that will be difficult.

 

Get fuel submersible line. I also made another return line that was the same length as the stock one.

 

Are you using the same harness that Aeromotive sent you? Connected with the stock harness, looks like you increased the gauge of the wire on the stock harness. How did you get the bulk head out to depin the wires?

Couldn't figure it out within 5 minutes so instead I began looking into just making another bulkhead for the pump itself and keeping the stock one there for the fuel level.

Like these




Kind of pricey, about $160 for both, but they are sealed and fuel safe.

 

I used the stock harness and the connected it to the harness that was provided with the pump. I haven't had any problems with it and I've used it about a year and a half now.

 

Curious as to how much power you're making ATM?
Thanks for the info.

 

I'm making 475whp at 20psi and 550whp at 25psi on a mustang dyno. My twin plate clutch started slipping bad on the higher boost tune so we didn't bother going higher until I replace it. My duty cycle is at 85% right now at the higher setting using that pump.

 

Did this in the part 3 of my build...check out page 3.

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ssis-Side.aspx

 

I cut mine and used hose and clamps.

 

I can't emphasize how bad the stock wiring SUCKS OMG.

I'm making 520+rwhp and I'm so lucky I didn't blow this motor as both failures were at idle.

First failure: Rewired under the hood at the fuse box the 12v direct signal. Ran fine for 6 years until I upgraded the pump to the 400LPH. Walbro draws more amps and melted my inline fuse holder!

Second Failure: Bypassed the factory wiring to the pump and ran a 10 gauge wire on a heavy duty relay directly to the battery from the pump. LEFT ME STRANDED IN DOWNTOWN ATLANTA on a the way back from a car meet as the pins/connector in the factory bulkhead burned out. Had to take apart the connect and jimmy rig the pins that were burnt!!!

Howard Coleman blew his engine I believe the same way.


I now have a 10gauge wires running directly through a bulk head made from a brass plumbing fittings with fuel tank cement sealing the wires in place connecting to the pump with 10g spade connectors. Wiring runs directly to a fuel cut-off switch rated at 40amps and then to my battery. Zero issues to date.

 

I took your advice and bought bulkhead connectors and will probably either use spades or the provided connector to connect to the pump.

 

/\ I just actually finished doing this. More pics in my build thread but I think it turned out ok

 

Is there a best way to make a hole at the top of the sender assembly for the new bulkhead? Assuming it's around the same size as the old one. If it was something smaller I could see a drill working.
Anything else besides needing heavy shop machinery?

 

I did mine with one drill bit. Takes a little bit longer but can be done without anything huge. Start by using a socket big enough to make a circle with marker. Drill multiple small holes around that trace until you are able to punch out the main material that's left.

Regardless, when using these types of bulkhead connectors, you need to then seal them with something (sealant, ect....I used jb-weld) otherwise they will leak. Like I said, check my thread in the build section..I have pretty much step by step pictures of what I did. It's the most recent post

 

Very good idea! Thanks.
Will definitely be using a fuel resistant sealant.

 

pretty sure he just popped a fuse.