Fuel In Oil
11-23-02, 08:46 PM
#30
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I would check for a leaking injector. The fuel system is pressurized when you turn the car off. A leaking injector will cause this to bleed off into the oil. This is very comon in the FC to the point that they have trouble starting. The FD has some special controls which will still allow it to start even with leaky injectors.
The shop manual tells how to do a injector leak down test. Or install a fuel system pressure gauge. My FD reeks also. I usually change my Mobil 1 every 1000 miles (I only drive it about 5k mi/yr).
The shop manual tells how to do a injector leak down test. Or install a fuel system pressure gauge. My FD reeks also. I usually change my Mobil 1 every 1000 miles (I only drive it about 5k mi/yr).
11-23-02, 11:05 PM
#31
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Phatman, just take a methodical approach and start out with inexpensive maintenance and diagnosis before you decide you need a complete rebuild.
Why not do this?
- Change your oil
- Install your boost gauge and see how much boost you're getting
- Get a compression test
Depending on those results you may not need to do anything else at all.
The oil leak below the oil filter is usually in the pedestal, and very inexpensive to have fixed.
If your max boost is low or your compression is very low, then you have bigger and more expensive probs.
A clogged pre-cat or problems in the turbo control system could cause low boost, but the repairs are only moderately expensive.
Very low compression would be the most serious problem and most expensive fix.
I can't comment on fuel injection system problems, but I'd look into that after checking out boost and compression unless you're smelling raw fuel under the hood (not in the oil).
Good luck.
Why not do this?
- Change your oil
- Install your boost gauge and see how much boost you're getting
- Get a compression test
Depending on those results you may not need to do anything else at all.
The oil leak below the oil filter is usually in the pedestal, and very inexpensive to have fixed.
If your max boost is low or your compression is very low, then you have bigger and more expensive probs.
A clogged pre-cat or problems in the turbo control system could cause low boost, but the repairs are only moderately expensive.
Very low compression would be the most serious problem and most expensive fix.
I can't comment on fuel injection system problems, but I'd look into that after checking out boost and compression unless you're smelling raw fuel under the hood (not in the oil).
Good luck.
11-24-02, 04:12 AM
#33
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K thanks guy, thats exactly what i was going to do, i have the boost gauge, i was gonna change the oil soon, and do a compression test. i just need to install the boostgauge, my pillar mounts havent come in yet, so i would have no place to mount it. So i should change my oil anywhere between 1-2k miles? hopefully its just the little problems.
11-24-02, 05:19 AM
#34
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I've got the oil in the gas deal with my FC. It is disturbing. Had a bit of trouble starting before I put it away... I miss it bigtime.
Last edited by rotard; 11-24-02 at 05:24 AM.
11-24-02, 07:52 AM
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Its normal for the oil to smell like gasoline.Like these guys in the forum, I changed the engine oil every 1000-1500km.Even though I use RedLine 5W50, I do not want to take any chances.Anyway, the oil is black as hell even with frequent oil changes.
11-24-02, 12:17 PM
#36
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i agree, get a compression test b/4 you decide on a rebuild...my motor has about 1700 miles on it and my oil smells like gas....so according to the australia guy, my motor is bad....so therefore chirs and ari @ rp are liars, and just want me to drive around on a bad motor.....
11-24-02, 06:39 PM
#38
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alright, today when i turned on my 7, out the back came pouring out a ton of white smoke, more than usual, a steady steam of big white smoke, it was like a cloud hid in my exhaust and then came out. but then after my car shut off from about 10 min of being on, i turned it back on 30 min later and the smoke was usual, what do you think could be the cause of the big cloud of white smoke. o-rings? or could it be cause my dad put 87 oct?
thanx
Phat
thanx
Phat
11-24-02, 09:34 PM
#39
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Ignition
White is crap that your cats deal with once they get hot, that and your O2 Sensor won't kick in until the engine is warm. I would start with the ignition/fuel system. Don't think that you are having oil leak problems but you are probably either putting too much fuel into the intake or you are not igniting it correctly when the car is cold.
So wires, plugs, ignition coils and check your cold start valve adjustment, it might be too constrictive. I would tend to think that at cold start you are pumping too much gas for the air going into the intake.
Has anyone messed with the throttle body, or adjusted the throttle position sensor?? Are your injectors stock or aftermarket? Does anyone know the voltage requirements for the TPS when the throttle is closed??
As for the 87 Octane, that won't help these matters. Higher the Octane rating, the better the burn. If your plugs are sucken, they will not be able to completly burn the mix when the engine is cold.
So wires, plugs, ignition coils and check your cold start valve adjustment, it might be too constrictive. I would tend to think that at cold start you are pumping too much gas for the air going into the intake.
Has anyone messed with the throttle body, or adjusted the throttle position sensor?? Are your injectors stock or aftermarket? Does anyone know the voltage requirements for the TPS when the throttle is closed??
As for the 87 Octane, that won't help these matters. Higher the Octane rating, the better the burn. If your plugs are sucken, they will not be able to completly burn the mix when the engine is cold.
Last edited by shred; 11-24-02 at 09:37 PM.
11-24-02, 10:41 PM
#40
Blow up or win
Re: Ignition
Originally posted by shred
White is crap that your cats deal with once they get hot, that and your O2 Sensor won't kick in until the engine is warm. I would start with the ignition/fuel system. Don't think that you are having oil leak problems but you are probably either putting too much fuel into the intake or you are not igniting it correctly when the car is cold.
So wires, plugs, ignition coils and check your cold start valve adjustment, it might be too constrictive. I would tend to think that at cold start you are pumping too much gas for the air going into the intake.
Has anyone messed with the throttle body, or adjusted the throttle position sensor?? Are your injectors stock or aftermarket? Does anyone know the voltage requirements for the TPS when the throttle is closed??
As for the 87 Octane, that won't help these matters. Higher the Octane rating, the better the burn. If your plugs are sucken, they will not be able to completly burn the mix when the engine is cold.
White is crap that your cats deal with once they get hot, that and your O2 Sensor won't kick in until the engine is warm. I would start with the ignition/fuel system. Don't think that you are having oil leak problems but you are probably either putting too much fuel into the intake or you are not igniting it correctly when the car is cold.
So wires, plugs, ignition coils and check your cold start valve adjustment, it might be too constrictive. I would tend to think that at cold start you are pumping too much gas for the air going into the intake.
Has anyone messed with the throttle body, or adjusted the throttle position sensor?? Are your injectors stock or aftermarket? Does anyone know the voltage requirements for the TPS when the throttle is closed??
As for the 87 Octane, that won't help these matters. Higher the Octane rating, the better the burn. If your plugs are sucken, they will not be able to completly burn the mix when the engine is cold.
In the real world, the higher the Octane rating the slower the burn. His problems have absolutley nothing to do with Octane, although if he boosts real hard with 87 in the tank he does run a risk of grenading an Apex seal.
Sound like a classic O ring coolant leak to me.........
11-24-02, 10:53 PM
#41
don't race, don't need to
Here we go again...
PhatMan (yo?): What does the smoke SMELL like? If it smells more or less like unburned gas and just regular car exhaust, all is well. If it smells sweet, then look to the o-rings. Also, monitor your coolant level in the overflow tank. If it doesn't change between readings (and make sure you are reading the level at the SAME temperature each time. A hot reading will be higher than a cole reading), again all is well. If you had bad o-rings, I would expect the low coolant light to have come on by now. Sounds to me like your engine is fine!
RonK, that cart is sooo coool! What's that thing pull on the skidpad, like 0.9? (that's blood alcohol, natch!)
PhatMan (yo?): What does the smoke SMELL like? If it smells more or less like unburned gas and just regular car exhaust, all is well. If it smells sweet, then look to the o-rings. Also, monitor your coolant level in the overflow tank. If it doesn't change between readings (and make sure you are reading the level at the SAME temperature each time. A hot reading will be higher than a cole reading), again all is well. If you had bad o-rings, I would expect the low coolant light to have come on by now. Sounds to me like your engine is fine!
RonK, that cart is sooo coool! What's that thing pull on the skidpad, like 0.9? (that's blood alcohol, natch!)
11-25-02, 02:06 AM
#42
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the smoke seems to smell like gasoline, not sweet. coolant light is not on. i think i need to take it to a professional and have them look at it. Does anyone know of any people or place that can do it around orange county,and a place that is relatively cheap, i will have the car towed there. hopefully i wont need a rebuild. 
11-25-02, 05:59 AM
#43
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Originally posted by PhatManBUD
alright, today when i turned on my 7, out the back came pouring out a ton of white smoke, more than usual, a steady steam of big white smoke, it was like a cloud hid in my exhaust and then came out. but then after my car shut off from about 10 min of being on, i turned it back on 30 min later and the smoke was usual, what do you think could be the cause of the big cloud of white smoke. o-rings? or could it be cause my dad put 87 oct?
thanx
Phat
alright, today when i turned on my 7, out the back came pouring out a ton of white smoke, more than usual, a steady steam of big white smoke, it was like a cloud hid in my exhaust and then came out. but then after my car shut off from about 10 min of being on, i turned it back on 30 min later and the smoke was usual, what do you think could be the cause of the big cloud of white smoke. o-rings? or could it be cause my dad put 87 oct?
thanx
Phat
.
11-25-02, 09:15 AM
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Some people don't know cars
Not sure what you mean by "the better the burn", and frankly your advice is pretty strange.
As for your advice on bad coolant seals, that would mean that the coolant is leaking into the combustion chambers, you would see the residue in the oil pan on the dip stick. He also stated that there was a smell of fuel in the exhaust, not sweet like coolant. Man at least I gave this guy somewhere to check that could potentially have the problem solved without spending an arm and a leg.
Total problems that could be wrong with 'white smoke' - turbos not sealing correctly, cracked or leaking, dribbling injector, spark in a million ways, wrong gas, apex seals, coolant leak, oil contamination, and the list goes on and on and on and on---it really depends on the smoke, there are two kinds, sweet foggy (water leak), gas smelling cloudy (won't hang around very long).
I based my assumption on the fact that the smoke was much worse on the lower octane gas, that could easly point to poor ignition of the fuel, fouled plugs or a poor iginition pulse to the plugs. I don't know, maby you have some strange RX7 incestial thing goen that allows you to think you know something about cars.
As for the octane rating, it stabalizes the fuel so under higher pressure (such as boost) there is less chance of pre-ignition from the pressure in the combustion chamber prior to meeting the power portion of the rotation that is ignited by the spark plugs. Hence the word detonation (low octane gas does this under high boost). This is what I was leading to under the poor choice of words in the middle of the night. More crap with low octane gas, hence the 'better the burn', which meant that since lower octane gas dosen't burn as complete or even as higher octane fuel, you can expect to see more deposits, and emissions from lower octane fuels.
Thanks for the hack, retard.
Last edited by shred; 11-25-02 at 09:44 AM.
11-25-02, 10:08 AM
#45
Blow up or win
Re: Some people don't know cars
Originally posted by shred
The advice that I gave was very direct. You can get white smoke from a car either on startup you have too much, too much fuel dumpen, or a startup problem related to leakage from the last shutdown. You can also have a lack of air from the cold start valve if it adjusted poorly. Some of us actually built race cars from the ground up and do have some pretty good understanding of how engines work. But thanks for the hack anyhow, need a hall of fame around here for all the flaming people do to each other.
As for your advice on bad coolant seals, that would mean that the coolant is leaking into the combustion chambers, you would see the residue in the oil pan on the dip stick. He also stated that there was a smell of fuel in the exhaust, not sweet like coolant. Man at least I gave this guy somewhere to check that could potentially have the problem solved without spending an arm and a leg.
Total problems that could be wrong with 'white smoke' - turbos not sealing correctly, cracked or leaking, dribbling injector, spark in a million ways, wrong gas, apex seals, coolant leak, oil contamination, and the list goes on and on and on and on---it really depends on the smoke, there are two kinds, sweet foggy (water leak), gas smelling cloudy (won't hang around very long).
I based my assumption on the fact that the smoke was much worse on the lower octane gas, that could easly point to poor ignition of the fuel, fouled plugs or a poor iginition pulse to the plugs. I don't know, maby you have some strange RX7 incestial thing goen that allows you to think you know something about cars.
As for the octane rating, it stabalizes the fuel so under higher pressure (such as boost) there is less chance of pre-ignition from the pressure in the combustion chamber prior to meeting the power portion of the rotation that is ignited by the spark plugs. Hence the word detonation (low octane gas does this under high boost). This is what I was leading to under the poor choice of words in the middle of the night. More crap with low octane gas, hence the 'better the burn', which meant that since lower octane gas dosen't burn as complete or even as higher octane fuel, you can expect to see more deposits, and emissions from lower octane fuels.
Thanks for the hack, retard.
The advice that I gave was very direct. You can get white smoke from a car either on startup you have too much, too much fuel dumpen, or a startup problem related to leakage from the last shutdown. You can also have a lack of air from the cold start valve if it adjusted poorly. Some of us actually built race cars from the ground up and do have some pretty good understanding of how engines work. But thanks for the hack anyhow, need a hall of fame around here for all the flaming people do to each other.
As for your advice on bad coolant seals, that would mean that the coolant is leaking into the combustion chambers, you would see the residue in the oil pan on the dip stick. He also stated that there was a smell of fuel in the exhaust, not sweet like coolant. Man at least I gave this guy somewhere to check that could potentially have the problem solved without spending an arm and a leg.
Total problems that could be wrong with 'white smoke' - turbos not sealing correctly, cracked or leaking, dribbling injector, spark in a million ways, wrong gas, apex seals, coolant leak, oil contamination, and the list goes on and on and on and on---it really depends on the smoke, there are two kinds, sweet foggy (water leak), gas smelling cloudy (won't hang around very long).
I based my assumption on the fact that the smoke was much worse on the lower octane gas, that could easly point to poor ignition of the fuel, fouled plugs or a poor iginition pulse to the plugs. I don't know, maby you have some strange RX7 incestial thing goen that allows you to think you know something about cars.
As for the octane rating, it stabalizes the fuel so under higher pressure (such as boost) there is less chance of pre-ignition from the pressure in the combustion chamber prior to meeting the power portion of the rotation that is ignited by the spark plugs. Hence the word detonation (low octane gas does this under high boost). This is what I was leading to under the poor choice of words in the middle of the night. More crap with low octane gas, hence the 'better the burn', which meant that since lower octane gas dosen't burn as complete or even as higher octane fuel, you can expect to see more deposits, and emissions from lower octane fuels.
Thanks for the hack, retard.
Does not burn as complete or even as higher Octane fuel?
More crap with lower Octane gas?
Now you are blowing smoke out YOUR ***!
Funniest **** I've heard in a long time!
06-20-06, 05:24 PM
#46
Just mi 2 pennys worth to the earlyr part of this thread but i guess changing your oil as often as poss if it dont cost much is a good thing no?
i change my oil every 3 weeks and i only do 48miles per week, btw it only costs me £3 for a filter and £12 for enugh shell mineral oil to fill it ( thats trade btw).
I just use a free ramp at work when everyone else has gone home.
I cant see any harm in it.
i change my oil every 3 weeks and i only do 48miles per week, btw it only costs me £3 for a filter and £12 for enugh shell mineral oil to fill it ( thats trade btw).
I just use a free ramp at work when everyone else has gone home.
I cant see any harm in it.
06-20-06, 11:37 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by Veger
Just mi 2 pennys worth to the earlyr part of this thread but i guess changing your oil as often as poss if it dont cost much is a good thing no?
i change my oil every 3 weeks and i only do 48miles per week, btw it only costs me £3 for a filter and £12 for enugh shell mineral oil to fill it ( thats trade btw).
I just use a free ramp at work when everyone else has gone home.
I cant see any harm in it.
i change my oil every 3 weeks and i only do 48miles per week, btw it only costs me £3 for a filter and £12 for enugh shell mineral oil to fill it ( thats trade btw).
I just use a free ramp at work when everyone else has gone home.
I cant see any harm in it.
06-21-06, 05:24 PM
#48
Then im silly. i like working on my car and as i have to disposable money i cant see the harm.
Besides it takes me 10 mins to oil change and i usually do it when im doing other stuff on the car as well so like i said before no harm eh.
Oh and the previous owner did the same every 250 miles and the car runs so sweet so im not gonna stop no matter how silly it seams.
Besides it takes me 10 mins to oil change and i usually do it when im doing other stuff on the car as well so like i said before no harm eh.
Oh and the previous owner did the same every 250 miles and the car runs so sweet so im not gonna stop no matter how silly it seams.
06-21-06, 06:07 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by Veger
Then im silly. i like working on my car and as i have to disposable money i cant see the harm.
Besides it takes me 10 mins to oil change and i usually do it when im doing other stuff on the car as well so like i said before no harm eh.
Oh and the previous owner did the same every 250 miles and the car runs so sweet so im not gonna stop no matter how silly it seams.
Besides it takes me 10 mins to oil change and i usually do it when im doing other stuff on the car as well so like i said before no harm eh.
Oh and the previous owner did the same every 250 miles and the car runs so sweet so im not gonna stop no matter how silly it seams.
I'm not getting on your case or anything, but I'd be curious to know for comparison purposes. How often you change your coolant and brake fluid? Are they on similar short interval change schedules?
06-21-06, 06:22 PM
#50
Coolant i change every 6 months (summer/winter mix) and brake/clutch fluid every year.
Im just kinda paranoid, but like i say the car runs sweet and its got 87k miles on it and it costs me vertually nothing.
Im just kinda paranoid, but like i say the car runs sweet and its got 87k miles on it and it costs me vertually nothing.