"Did you exhaust overheat light up in the center console by any chance? It sounds like you lost ignition to a rotor which would dump raw fuel into the hot exhaust system and obviously cause a fire."

This is where the fuel came from ......as I stated earlier in my first diagnosis to you.

Tom

 

Never gave me any warning of overheating!

I think the lack of Spark/Ignition may very well be the culprit. What's the best way to check the ignition system to start ruling out and pinpointing to the source of the problem???

 

I think You and Mgoddard1 may be correct. Your hypothesis has given me hope that the problem may not be as costly/major as I first suspected. I won't know until I start checking for the problem this week-end.

Thanks a bunch guys!!!!

- Jimmy

 

My guess is that when the engine failed (breifly?), maybe you got a lot of oil or gas into the exhaust system and it cought fire as it exited the exhaust?

If the car was not running when the cyclist came by, maybe it was still buring a pool of oil/gas inside the muffler?

 

I thought hard about this myself. But no oil, or oil odor was detected in or around the Tail Pipes. The TPs each have a 1/4" size drain hole on the bottom located at the ends. I think had oil dripped down through the holes, the oil would've dripped/run back under neath the TPs and thereby left evidence of an Oil Fed Fire. There are no signs of Oil residue anywhere on the rear of the Car or on the MagnaFlow.

I think Fuel passed completely through the entire exhaust system and ignited as it mixed with oxygen as it exited out the MFlow.

 

Another photo......

 

really? what i've read in the past and what i understand is that the same filter from the old ~120 horse Miata was used on the FD, and that's why it should be changed ever 15k miles. well, learn something new every day

 

The info comes from my FD's 1993 Owners Manual.

 

$43

its a bunch of money ... but i was pushing MUCHO boost, and running GT100 around town ... so i couldnt afford ANY blockage in my fuel system

 

"I thought hard about this myself. But no oil, or oil odor was detected in or around the Tail Pipes. The TPs each have a 1/4" size drain hole on the bottom located at the ends. I think had oil dripped down through the holes, the oil would've dripped/run back under neath the TPs and thereby left evidence of an Oil Fed Fire. There are no signs of Oil residue anywhere on the rear of the Car or on the MagnaFlow.

I think Fuel passed completely through the entire exhaust system and ignited as it mixed with oxygen as it exited out the MFlow."


Now you are getting somewhere - forget about all the other discussion about your fuel filter. Get your manual out and proceed to check the LEAD coil out - both sides. Also pull the spark plugs and change them out - record where each plug came from and see how they look. Check the wiring carefully to the ignotor, and coils. Some more recent maintenance history and incident details would be helpful also.

Tom

 

I don't have a Manual,..so I'll have to "wing" it.


I'll make CSI proud!!


Recent Oil change w/new Filter (10 days ago). What specific info would you like to know regarding the incident in question???

Thanks you ( and everyone else) for all your help and guidance.

- Jimmy

 

yes you do

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com

go to the 3rd generation section and print it out. Good luck and keep us posted I am really interested in this.

 

Thanks.

 

Hmm... I vaguely remember a thread I posted a while back about always keeping a fire extinguisher in your car.

 

Get the manual as Montego suggests and read up on Coil troubleshooting. About the incident - describe again how the events came to pass...also has there been any other problems recently with power loss ? Any new modifications lately that could relate to this problem ? Even those that may not be related ( like lowering the car which could cause the tire on the pass side to rub wiring ) etc.


Tom


Yes, and always carry a fire extinguisher in these cars.

 

Actually the wire harnesses that run on each side of both wheel wells have been worn a little because of Tire rubbing. Would this be a possible cause of the Engine loss of power??

 

First of all, Jimmy - you did all that turbo on-off stuff for your turbo rebuild and you didn't know you could download a factory manual off the web???

You must be God's Gift of a mechanic to pull that one off...

I hope your turbo rebuild is still holding up - because I'm about to use your write-up to rebuild mine - and I'm hoping to avoid your balance issues...

as to your fire - sounds like raw fuel to me - can't you just pull the plugs out and crank the thing over in a dark garage? If no sparky then start tracing back - make sure the coil pack in getting power - have you checked any of your fuses yet?

Good luck - and get a big ricer coffee can exhaust for Pete's sake - that will spray the raw fuel three feet BEHIND your bumper next time - hopefully igniting the Toyota Poopra that was tailgating you ...

Jim

 

Sorryto hear that man, I feel your pain... I been there.

My vote goes to a bad injector getting stuck open and flooding your motor, therefore the exhaust was realy hot and BOOM, flames all over.

When my motor blew, one rotor was still working fine, I drove it home just on one rotor, it wouldn't idle but it took me home and 12-15 miles to the shop for R&R... No flames or anything.

Do a compression test immediately, it will reveil the mistery right of way.

 

I knew the Site exsisted, just didn't know it had a complete FD3S Elec. Manual.
Anyone with half a lizards brain can do the the Turbo Kit install. I just didn't pay enough attention when placing precise index marks on the components for the re-installment process. It was my mistake.


The Twins are as strong as ever. NO smoke,...No Oil leaks! Boosting like the Mazda Gods intended!!
PM me if I can help you with anything during your Rebuild.


I've checked Squadoosh!!. Hope to inpect it this week-end.

 

what size are those rear tires? they look like 205's

 

^----------235/40/17's

 

Any recommendations on the fire extinguisher - brand/type? Dry chemical or halon?
I am thinking about getting one and after searching on the net came across company who sells halon units.

http://www.h3r.com/products/home_vehicle.htm

 

If you can get a halon or CO2 unit that would be the best - unfortunately though they are large and/or expensive. The dry chem ones are cheap and very effective but the dry chem is corrosive and difficult to clean up, esp from your engine bay without removing parts. What you have there is probably the best way to go.

 

Get one of the small dry chems from Advance auto, clamp it down good somewhere. That is all you need, it's a one shot deal that puts out a generous amount of fire.

Now how is this car problem coming along ? Find anything yet ?

Tom

 

I knew I recognized the car in the sig. It just looked too familiar. And the exhaust. Ya. For sure. I know who you are.

BTW - you seem a lot smart on the forum than you did in person.