which flywheel for engine from an automatic tranny FD ?
#1
which flywheel for engine from an automatic tranny FD ?
From researching the archives, looks like the only difference in the m/t vs. a/t is the rear plate, pilot bearing/seal, and flywheel.
The rear plate has an extra bolt hole, but will bolt right up to the m/t.
A pilot bearing and seal need to be installed. Simply driven into place.
An aftermarket flywheel is necessary that will balance/work with the the rear counterweight.
Recommendations for a flywheel and a source ?
Am I missing anything else in trying to converting an automatic engine to work with a stick shift chassis ?
TIA,
:-) neil
The rear plate has an extra bolt hole, but will bolt right up to the m/t.
A pilot bearing and seal need to be installed. Simply driven into place.
An aftermarket flywheel is necessary that will balance/work with the the rear counterweight.
Recommendations for a flywheel and a source ?
Am I missing anything else in trying to converting an automatic engine to work with a stick shift chassis ?
TIA,
:-) neil
#2
If you use a stock 5spd flywheel you don't need the counterweight.
If you want a lightweight flwheel use the stock auto counterweight and the lightweight flywheel of your choice.
If you want a lightweight flwheel use the stock auto counterweight and the lightweight flywheel of your choice.
#3
Originally Posted by turbojeff
If you use a stock 5spd flywheel you don't need the counterweight.
If you want a lightweight flwheel use the stock auto counterweight and the lightweight flywheel of your choice.
If you want a lightweight flwheel use the stock auto counterweight and the lightweight flywheel of your choice.
The automatic-engine has been sitting in storage for 2-years.
TIA,
:-) neil
#4
Originally Posted by M104-AMG
When I remove the automatic-flywheel (52mm nut!), do I need to worry about the seal behind it ? That is, do I need to replace it ?
The automatic-engine has been sitting in storage for 2-years.
TIA,
:-) neil
The automatic-engine has been sitting in storage for 2-years.
TIA,
:-) neil
#6
easy to replace!!! ****, if your tearing the motor down...I replaced mine with the motor in the car...that ******* sucked! If you are going to pull the rear gear off, do NOT turn the motor.
if you are rebuilding the engine, have the rotors and counter weights balanced together.
missing from the A/T to M/T swap....the wiring! search for wiring diagrams, I've seen a couple good ones on here.
if you are rebuilding the engine, have the rotors and counter weights balanced together.
missing from the A/T to M/T swap....the wiring! search for wiring diagrams, I've seen a couple good ones on here.
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#8
Originally Posted by dubulup
easy to replace!!! ****, if your tearing the motor down...I replaced mine with the motor in the car...that ******* sucked! If you are going to pull the rear gear off, do NOT turn the motor.
if you are rebuilding the engine, have the rotors and counter weights balanced together.
if you are rebuilding the engine, have the rotors and counter weights balanced together.
The rotating assembly does not need to be balanced, unless you are changing the stock configuration (ie, using lighter-weight rotors).
-Rob
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