fluidyne vs mazdacomp radiator
#26
Originally posted by GoRacer
....I pulled over imediately and left the fans on and opened the hood but as anyone has experienced it only takes a fraction of a second to overheat and then it's too late!
....I pulled over imediately and left the fans on and opened the hood but as anyone has experienced it only takes a fraction of a second to overheat and then it's too late!
I don't think so
#27
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
You won't be laughing when yours blows! That's just silly to assume i'm mistaken when I have personal experience with this and obviously you don't. Everyone know the stock water temp gauge is incorrect and will not move untill the engine has "allready" overheated which is why it only takes a second for it to climb to the top ...because it was already there. It doesn't matter or change reality if you don't think so because i'm posting my experience. Welcome to o-ring denial.
You can go to your local ODA weekly meeting and get your chip. Hello everyone, my name is Adam C and I have o-ring denial.
Hello Adam C
You can go to your local ODA weekly meeting and get your chip. Hello everyone, my name is Adam C and I have o-ring denial.
Hello Adam C
Last edited by GoRacer; 04-26-04 at 07:40 PM.
#28
Originally posted by GoRacer
You won't be laughing when yours blows! That's just silly to assume i'm mistaken when I have personal experience with this and obviously you don't. Everyone know the stock water temp gauge is incorrect and will not move untill the engine has "allready" overheated which is why it only takes a second for it to climb to the top ...because it was already there. It doesn't matter or change reality if you don't think so because i'm posting my experience. Welcome to o-ring denial.
You can go to your local ODA weekly meeting and get your chip. Hello everyone, my name is Adam C and I have o-ring denial.
Hello Adam C
You won't be laughing when yours blows! That's just silly to assume i'm mistaken when I have personal experience with this and obviously you don't. Everyone know the stock water temp gauge is incorrect and will not move untill the engine has "allready" overheated which is why it only takes a second for it to climb to the top ...because it was already there. It doesn't matter or change reality if you don't think so because i'm posting my experience. Welcome to o-ring denial.
You can go to your local ODA weekly meeting and get your chip. Hello everyone, my name is Adam C and I have o-ring denial.
Hello Adam C
#29
Well, I do have an aftermarket water temp gauge. I hope that I am watching it when it shoots up to 250 degrees in a fraction of a second.
BTW, I have been racing and working on RX7's for 22 years. You are not the only one who has torn apart a blown engine. Hello Mr. Experience
BTW, I have been racing and working on RX7's for 22 years. You are not the only one who has torn apart a blown engine. Hello Mr. Experience
#30
Originally posted by SPOautos
Can you guys count the fins for me? I'm wondering about the Mazda Comp, Fluidyne, and Koyo, and I guess any other misc radiators out there. Just mark off an inch and count how many fins there are.
It would be a big help if anyone can do that.
STEPHEN
Can you guys count the fins for me? I'm wondering about the Mazda Comp, Fluidyne, and Koyo, and I guess any other misc radiators out there. Just mark off an inch and count how many fins there are.
It would be a big help if anyone can do that.
STEPHEN
#31
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
No I didn't have an aftermarket or acurate temp guage. I Can't say without a warning light and/or buzzer on it "preset" to my desired temp that I wouldn't have overlooked it either.
I never said a "aftermarket" temp guage would climb in a second, I said the OEM "stock" gauge would and you actually know that. The needle stays at warm untill it's allready overheated and that's why you have the aftermarket one. The original poster does not mention owning an aftermarket guage and this is gotten off topic. He's asking for experience. It doesn't matter that I only opened one block, I still replied with my experience. I replied with links to AWR and Mazdacomp which is where I got my info from on the radiator and water cooling. If anyone can prove those two companies wrong then great, we all benefit from the posted results. If I had the money, i'd sell my Fluidyne and buy a Mazdacomp and run evens coolant and install a real water temp guage with a warning light.
My reply still stands: If he can afford it to get the mazdacomp version. If anyone can prove Fluidyne is better then great, we all benefit. Untill that happens, I think Mazdacomp/AWR is a better choice. Everyone can post what they think, that's what this forum is for.
I never said a "aftermarket" temp guage would climb in a second, I said the OEM "stock" gauge would and you actually know that. The needle stays at warm untill it's allready overheated and that's why you have the aftermarket one. The original poster does not mention owning an aftermarket guage and this is gotten off topic. He's asking for experience. It doesn't matter that I only opened one block, I still replied with my experience. I replied with links to AWR and Mazdacomp which is where I got my info from on the radiator and water cooling. If anyone can prove those two companies wrong then great, we all benefit from the posted results. If I had the money, i'd sell my Fluidyne and buy a Mazdacomp and run evens coolant and install a real water temp guage with a warning light.
My reply still stands: If he can afford it to get the mazdacomp version. If anyone can prove Fluidyne is better then great, we all benefit. Untill that happens, I think Mazdacomp/AWR is a better choice. Everyone can post what they think, that's what this forum is for.
#32
In the For What Its Worth department, my first aftermarket radiator was a Mazdacomp. It blew a leak in one corner for no apparent reason, so while I may be the sole failure in the history of that unit...my opinion as to its quality isn't so high. I ended up replacing it with a PWR, and I've been happy with it. No overheating here in South FL (to be fair I never overheated with the Mazdacomp either) and no giant leaks in the parking lot at work It didn't have the "wings" ont he side, which was actually fine with me because I have a Pettit intake and its supposed to get air from that space. The PWR was also nicely polished, not that you can see it once its installed.
jds
jds
#33
so whats the best rad to get if lets say you're going to get a fmic at the same time..
i mean like so you dont have to do any cutting or fabricating to make them both fit..
i mean like so you dont have to do any cutting or fabricating to make them both fit..
#34
If any of you guys can do a fin count for me I'd greatly appreciate it. All you need to do is count the fins in one inch. I'd like the info no matter which radiator you have
Thanks,
STEPHEN
Thanks,
STEPHEN
#35
Originally posted by SPOautos
If any of you guys can do a fin count for me I'd greatly appreciate it. All you need to do is count the fins in one inch. I'd like the info no matter which radiator you have
Thanks,
STEPHEN
If any of you guys can do a fin count for me I'd greatly appreciate it. All you need to do is count the fins in one inch. I'd like the info no matter which radiator you have
Thanks,
STEPHEN
Anyone?
#38
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Originally posted by FormerPorscheGuy
Sounds like someone has had the wool pulled over their eyes by AWR's marketing department.
Simplly put, there are two ways to lower water temps.
1) increase air flow over the radiator
or
2) inrease the surface area of the radiator core.
There is no way in hell that a 1.125" radiator will cool better the a 2" will.
Sorry GoRacer, try again.
Sounds like someone has had the wool pulled over their eyes by AWR's marketing department.
Simplly put, there are two ways to lower water temps.
1) increase air flow over the radiator
or
2) inrease the surface area of the radiator core.
There is no way in hell that a 1.125" radiator will cool better the a 2" will.
Sorry GoRacer, try again.
Isn't that a similar innovation that Apexi uses on their FMIC's which everyone beleives is the best design?
Since AWR uses Ron Davis cores and it's purchased by Mazdacomp, you are saying all 3 of them are hype? Anyhow, you didn't prove them wrong. Efficency can beat size just like in ball bearing turbos.
#39
Originally posted by GoRacer
Featuring a multi louvered fin design, this race radiator is equivalent to a 3 row radiator in cooling performance, but without the added bulk.
Featuring a multi louvered fin design, this race radiator is equivalent to a 3 row radiator in cooling performance, but without the added bulk.
Thermo dynamics and over all surface area assist in cooling.
Smaller radiators = less surface area = less coolant capacity = less airflow over actual area = less efficiency. Its simple math.
Try again GoRacer
#41
Cooling fins are only one aspect of surface area. In fact, too many fins would block too much air, and reduce cooling efficiency. You cannot just say that more fins are better.
Number of cooling tubes is also a big factor in surface area, and efficiency.
Number of cooling tubes is also a big factor in surface area, and efficiency.
Last edited by adam c; 04-28-04 at 01:46 PM.
#42
Originally posted by rockshox
if the mazdacomp has 18 fins per inch vs 13 on the fluidyne then it has more surface area.
if the mazdacomp has 18 fins per inch vs 13 on the fluidyne then it has more surface area.
Lets say that the AWS radiator that GoRacer is championing has the same fin count as the Mazda Comp radiator.
Also for argument sake, lets say the Koyo has the same fin count as the Fluidine radiator. (I am championing the Koyo).
AWS = 18 fins per square inch.
KOYO = 13 fins per square inch.
*KOYO'S ACTUAL NUMBERS HAVE NOT BEEN LISTED HERE.
This measurement unfortunately does not take into account the thickness of the radiators.
AWS = 1.125" thick (according to GoRacer)
KOYO = 2" thick.
AWS = 18 fins per square inch X 1.125" = 20.25
Koyo = 13 fins per square inch X 2" = 26
That was my argument on efficiency of the radiator. This does not take into account the fact that more coolant is in contact with the cooling surface area on a Koyo then on an any of the above mentioned radiators. For arguments sake, this is the Mazda Comp's numbers and the fluidine radiator numbers.
Mazda Comp = 18 fins per square inch X 1.38" = 24.84
Fluidine = 13 fins per square inch X 1.5" = 19.5
This is my argument that the KOYO radiator is the best radiator that you can buy for a RX-7.
Jason C. Williams
#43
That's not a good argument either. Your cooling airflow that is transferring heat away from the radiator is entering the front...by the time it hits the back fins its already much hotter and therefore able to carry away less heat. A radiator that is twice as thick is much less than twice as "good" because of this.
jds
jds
#44
Originally posted by bureau_c
That's not a good argument either. Your cooling airflow that is transferring heat away from the radiator is entering the front...by the time it hits the back fins its already much hotter and therefore able to carry away less heat. A radiator that is twice as thick is much less than twice as "good" because of this.
jds
That's not a good argument either. Your cooling airflow that is transferring heat away from the radiator is entering the front...by the time it hits the back fins its already much hotter and therefore able to carry away less heat. A radiator that is twice as thick is much less than twice as "good" because of this.
jds
#45
Originally posted by bureau_c
That's not a good argument either. Your cooling airflow that is transferring heat away from the radiator is entering the front...by the time it hits the back fins its already much hotter and therefore able to carry away less heat.
That's not a good argument either. Your cooling airflow that is transferring heat away from the radiator is entering the front...by the time it hits the back fins its already much hotter and therefore able to carry away less heat.
Conversely, if you are stopped, with no fans running, a larger capacity radiator will keep the car from heating up as quickly .......... advantage Koyo.
All that being said, I chose the Fluidyne because of increased capacity AND fitment.
#46
There are MANY balances in deciding the most efficient way to design a IC and many factors come into play.
There has to be a balance between, thickness, fin count, surface area, amount of ambient air hitting the radiator, and speed your traveling. Then you select a fan based on all that cause it all chances the efficiency of the fan. Its damn crazy I tell ya, I never thought of them in so much depth till I started doing my own custom radiator and IC.
To give you a little info about mine, its got more surface area than any of these mentioned, is thicker than any of them, will have the correct fin count for our application, is dual pass, and is also going to cost MORE haha. But hey, you'll get what you pay for.
Anyway, when its all said and done if you guys ask real nice I might start selling them
STEPHEN
There has to be a balance between, thickness, fin count, surface area, amount of ambient air hitting the radiator, and speed your traveling. Then you select a fan based on all that cause it all chances the efficiency of the fan. Its damn crazy I tell ya, I never thought of them in so much depth till I started doing my own custom radiator and IC.
To give you a little info about mine, its got more surface area than any of these mentioned, is thicker than any of them, will have the correct fin count for our application, is dual pass, and is also going to cost MORE haha. But hey, you'll get what you pay for.
Anyway, when its all said and done if you guys ask real nice I might start selling them
STEPHEN
Last edited by SPOautos; 04-28-04 at 02:16 PM.
#47
Originally posted by adam c
The Fluidyne has a larger capacity, and is also a direct bolt in. The Fluidyne brand is well known as top of the line quality. I don't think the Mazdacomp is any better, and is certainly not worth the extra money. The best radiator I could get would be something I had custom made for my car, to fit with the mods I have. It would be very expensive, and not worth the price IMO.
If he pulled over right away, chances are very slim that he would blow an o-ring. If his o-ring was about to go anyway, that would certainly increase the odds a little.
The Fluidyne has a larger capacity, and is also a direct bolt in. The Fluidyne brand is well known as top of the line quality. I don't think the Mazdacomp is any better, and is certainly not worth the extra money. The best radiator I could get would be something I had custom made for my car, to fit with the mods I have. It would be very expensive, and not worth the price IMO.
If he pulled over right away, chances are very slim that he would blow an o-ring. If his o-ring was about to go anyway, that would certainly increase the odds a little.
3 different NEW Fluidynes fit the same way.
#49
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Originally posted by SPOautos
Anyway, when its all said and done if you guys ask real nice I might start selling them
STEPHEN
Anyway, when its all said and done if you guys ask real nice I might start selling them
STEPHEN
We are excluding http://griffinrad.com/faq.php and by the way AWR is the manufacturer of Mazdaspeed radiators which is also sold by Mazdacomp (4 z newb's).
4) Is a thicker radiator a better radiator?
Thickness requirement depends on the application. There is no reason to build a thicker radiator than required to meet your specific cooling needs.
6) How many fins per inch do you use?
It depends on the application. More fins per inch generally increases the heat rejection capability of the radiator, but also increases the pressure drop through the radiator. The radiator needs to be properly designed to meet your specific engine cooling requirements.
13) Can I get one of your 4 row aluminum radiators?
Griffin doesn’t recommend a 4 row radiator for street use; because of high air side restriction, excessive fan power would be required to meet idle requirements. All or most of our street radiators will use one of our 2 row 1" or 2 row 1 1/4" tubes. However, if you specifically need a 3 or 4 row aluminum radiator, Griffin has the capability to custom build one for you.
Thickness requirement depends on the application. There is no reason to build a thicker radiator than required to meet your specific cooling needs.
6) How many fins per inch do you use?
It depends on the application. More fins per inch generally increases the heat rejection capability of the radiator, but also increases the pressure drop through the radiator. The radiator needs to be properly designed to meet your specific engine cooling requirements.
13) Can I get one of your 4 row aluminum radiators?
Griffin doesn’t recommend a 4 row radiator for street use; because of high air side restriction, excessive fan power would be required to meet idle requirements. All or most of our street radiators will use one of our 2 row 1" or 2 row 1 1/4" tubes. However, if you specifically need a 3 or 4 row aluminum radiator, Griffin has the capability to custom build one for you.