Bill-
good question. My guess is that if there's something hanging the injector open, it will not be reflected on the duty cycle of the injector. I'm going to take a look though.....
Bob

 

This is what I did...

TPS Connector Points (4 lined up vertically) and required voltages:
2nd from the top (green wire with red strip), this goes to the 3F ECU connector. Closed throttle +V range is 0.75 to 1.25. Fully open throttle +V range is 4.8 to 5.0.
Bottom (black wire with green strip), this goes to the 3G ECU connector. Closed throttle +V range is 0.1 to 0.7. Fully open throttle +v range is 4.2 to 4.6.

-----------------------------------xxx--------------------------------------xxx---------------------
Procedure:
1. Start and run engine until at normal operating temperature and the fast idle cam is at idle position.
2. Turn off engine.
3. Remove the AWS hose that connects to the long curved inlet pipe and to the AWS solenoid behind the throttle body.
4. Remove the hose from the pressure sensor on the firewall and tuck it down out of the way. Procedures 3 & 4 are to make room to reach the 2 TPS bolts.
5. Using the 7mm socket, 3/8" to 1/4" adapter, and 3/8" rachet, 1oosen the lower TPS bolt.
6. Using the 7mm socket and 1/4" L handle, barely loosen the top TPS bolt.
7. Connect the negative volt meter lead to a good ground point. I used one of the ground points in the diagnostic connector.
8. Insert the safety pin point into the 3F or 3G TPS connector between the wire and rubber weather seal. Using the alligator tip, connect the volt meter positive lead to the latch end of the safety pin.
9. Turn on the ignition without starting the engine. If there isn't a voltage reading, then readjust your ground and TPS connections until you do.
10. Note the voltages at closed and fully opened throttle.
11. Do the same for the other TPS connector point.
12. If all four voltages are not within the specified ranges, loosen the top TPS bolt and rotate the TPS until all four voltages are correct.
13. Tighten the 2 TPS bolts and reassemble everything. Do not over tighten the two TPS bolts. Their listed torque is 14 to 21 inch pounds!
14. Drive the car then readjust the idle air bleed if necessary.

I'm a computer geek and and have no idea what's what... I played around with on screw which is spring loaded on the right side of the TB which to my suprised actually helped my shifting and buckling by alot.
Can somone one take a picture and point out to me where all these screws and bolts are for me...hehe... i'm so lost but at the same time i know this will fix my problem and the girl won't have back problems ridin' with me.

i'm using pfc to read of my vta1 and vta2 readings. They are way off from what is listed on www.fd3s.net... i have searched for few days and busted my finger open... thanks in advanced.

i don't know what step 5,6,12,13 are talking about...
step 14 i think is the screw at the bottom of the tb which u can un screw to set ur idle...

somone plz take a good pic and point this out to us noobs...

 

ok, here is a pic i took a second ago, it shows you where the TPS is :-)

 

Someone post a pic of the Air adjustment screw...if I am closing that all the way, am I turning clockwise?

Trev

 

This sounds like it could be a likely cause of my car oscilating and occasionally bogging or bucking; not to mention a new feature of cranking longer prior to cold start, and stalling occasionaly when cold or going downhill.
But is seems like the crack mechanic at the Ma's Duh dealer would have been all over this possibility. He was adjusting the TPS; and even tried a different one.

The car is also showing engine check light o2 sensor codes.

Should I push him hard on the TPS adjustments; or go back to the grounding straps and idle sensor?

Or try a new mechanic?

 

>>Should I push him hard on the TPS adjustments; or go back to the grounding straps and idle sensor?


There realy is nothing to 'push' him on , the TPS is either in range or not...once it is in range, you leave it and adjust the other things.

 

Hey Damian, heres a question for you.
I followed the instruction as stated from the link you provided us. But when I was gettin the top bolt lose, gettin it ready to be adjusted. I use a multimeter from RadioShack that reads 15 range of V. I had the black wire (ground - negative) to a good ground. Then I unplugged the tps connector, I used the positive(red lead) from multimeter, plug into the top 2nd slot(green with red stripe wire) and had a reading of .010 - .011 close throttle. I tried adjusting the tps by rotating it, no change or whatsoever? Why? I kept trying different methods by rotating it slowly, fast or even fluctuate it up and down, nothing changes. Because of this, my idle got worst and had more backfire. Please help !!! Thanks in advance.

p.s. car has been warmed up, ignition on, my original idle was around 1-1.1k with very little backfire after adjusting the air-adjusting-screw, but now its around 1.3-1.5 and has many popping/backfireing. Did i do something wrong here?
-Eric

 

>>Then I unplugged the tps connector

that is your issue, leave it plugged in, that is why I use needles to get in there to make the connections, i though that was in my write up to use needles behind the connector to get the readings.

leave it connected... then check readings, set properly, then tighten screws once in the right range....then post how its goes.

 

ps.

you need the connector connected to give the TPS power in order to create the voltage readings :-)

 

Hmmm really? Maybe I somehow skipped it. Let me check it out tonight and see what's up. Thanks

 

Just tested my TPS...

"Top" wire
.97 @ Idle
5.00 @ WOT

Bottom wire
.5 @ Idle
3.26 @ WOT

The spec for the bottom WOT is 4.2-4.6, my car currently backfires occasionaly on decel, is that the cuplrit? Do you just "play" with the TPS till the numbers are right?

 

while cruising thru this thread and hearing all the applause for Damian a scrap of a sentence jumped off the page...

"adjust the screw on the top of the throttle body so that it doesn't hold the butterflies open"

BINGO

like most modded FDs i have little remaining on my throttle body but the butterfly adj screw. and my idle refused to run below 1800-1900. having more important things to do i messed w it abit and then just ignored it.

i did adj my VTA1 and VTA2 but w the idle screw advanced so the car would idle.

after backing the screw off and resetting my TPS my car now idles properly.

whoopie and thanks Damian.

howard coleman

 

:-) glad it helped howard!!! ill probably see ya when ur here for the tuning session

 

great thread....my TPS just took a dump

do they go bad, or typically just out of adjustment?

is it generally necesary to remove the throttle body to get the little pos phillips head adjustment screws loose?

 

>>do they go bad, or typically just out of adjustment?

they usually just get tweaked out of adjustment range....but I have herd of some going bad.

>>is it generally necesary to remove the throttle body to get the little pos phillips head adjustment screws loose?

nope, you can get them loose without taking it off, but its not easy, u need a 90 deg screw driver or a real stubby one. ... and the screw heads strip easily so I take mine off and replace them with allen bolts, its a lot easier to get an allen tool in there and get leverage.

 

my car runs for about 2 minutes and then it just abruptly dies, then starts back up again after turning the key off...it's doing alot of the things you mentioned, so I'm guessing that is the problem

I suppose the voltage check will tell me if it's bad?

 

do the voltage check...dont assume it is the tps until after you do the voltage check.

 

how did you test it with the sensor plugged in? did you strip the wires back a little?

 

sometimes my rpm idles at 2k and then goes down to 1k and idles there untill im stopped for like 4 minutes. then it goes to like 700 i think i cant tell. what is it doing that it needs to do that. and also sometimes the rev bounces from 1-1.5 and then i rev it and it stops.

 

ok, I checked it with the needle/voltage tester method, and also with the PowerFC Commander (forgot about that :p)

the voltage for both connectors at full open throttle is within range, and the voltage for one of the connectors is within range at closed throttle, the other is quite a bit out of spec (about 2.3 V...and this is after I turned the TPS clockwise all the way, both were way off unless I did this)

I'm thinking the sensor is shot, not that I trsut these voltage tests all that much after my coils passed the test and were shot anyway...the car runs for a few seconds and dies

 

hi.. my car has the back firing issue similar to what you have stated.. though it doesnt have any of the other issues.. does anyone know if i adust the Tps if it will help my issue? cheers shaun

 

back firing off the throttle is quite common, esp if you are running rich....likely not TPS related

when the TPS goes, your car will run very erratically, if at all....trust me

 

sup.. yes the car is running rich, quite rich.. makes sense extra fuel burning off.. might have tone it down a bit.. cheers for quick response Improved FD, much appreciated.. shaun

 

its easy to see if the TPS adjust ment will help or not, just check the voltage readings, if its in spec, then its not causing an issue... if its out of spec... then adjust it to within spec.

 

but if the sensor is just plain shot, does it give 0 V or erratic readings?

perhaps someone can post on this