First Rebuild
01-19-12 | 03:33 PM
#1
First Rebuild
Greetings all!
I'm considering attempting my first rebuild (ever). Blew atleast a coolant seal on my 13b.
I have a shop manual for the car. I was looking for a Chiltons or Haynes but couldn't find any. I also bought some rebuild DVD off of E-Bay.
Is there any other material anyone would recommend I grab?
Additionally the motor is around 125k. I was thinking about just buying a jspec and rebuilding that and then possibly trying to work my blown motor later. My intent is to track the car starting with HPDE events in spring. Any thoughts if thats a good way to go about it?
I'm considering attempting my first rebuild (ever). Blew atleast a coolant seal on my 13b.
I have a shop manual for the car. I was looking for a Chiltons or Haynes but couldn't find any. I also bought some rebuild DVD off of E-Bay.
Is there any other material anyone would recommend I grab?
Additionally the motor is around 125k. I was thinking about just buying a jspec and rebuilding that and then possibly trying to work my blown motor later. My intent is to track the car starting with HPDE events in spring. Any thoughts if thats a good way to go about it?
01-19-12 | 09:04 PM
#2
There aren't a Chilton or Haynes manual for the FD, and that's a blessing in disguise. Those books are garbage.
Bruce Turrentine has an EXCELLENT video on rebuilding the 13b. He also has a video on how to remove and re-install the engine which is excellent.
Here's my recommendations -
- If you're going to do it yourself, be prepared to mess some things up. It's called a learning curve. You may very well have to go back and re-do things, even end up pulling and breaking the motor back apart. If you can accept that, go on.
- When pulling the motor, LABEL and PHOTOGRAPH EVERYTHING. I get a sharpie and a bunch of ziploc bags, small parts and bolts all go in labeled bags and are kept track of. Label all your wiring, take pictures of how the harnesses run, where things are plugged in, etc. I can't stress this enough, this is the area where a LOT of people mess up.
- THROW NOTHING OUT, DESTROY NOTHING. Don't just cut hoses or bust something to get it off the car or out of the way. The FD has MANY expensive parts. For example, the fuel lines going from the firewall to the engine? BIG money from Mazda. They're typically re-usable, take a minute and properly un-clamp and remove (and label) them. That will save a huge headache down the road. Even if you know you're replacing certain parts, save EVERYTHING. Quite possible you might need it again, only throw it out when you're sure you're done.
- Spend the time to do the job RIGHT. NEW OEM parts, get new Mazda coolant hoses, new oil metering pump lines, etc. When you're done, you should have a pile of clean, new, and nice parts in a clean and nice engine bay. Don't just slap a dirty motor together with ghetto rigged everything, that is what will kill you down the road.
- Double the amount you expect to spend on the rebuild and double the amount of time you think it will take. DON'T RUSH IT or CHEAP OUT. You need to have another car to get around in during the interim. Hell, you can easily blow a week just cleaning parts. You will be SO sick of cleaning parts by the time you are done, there's a TON of cleaning to do.
- If you get carried away and feel you just can't get the motor built right, you can easily have a good shop build the short block for you then you put that in the car. You'll save a lot of money pulling and reinstalling the motor.
- Getting a JDM engine as a core is a good idea. Don't buy it expecting a good motor, buy it as a collection of parts. You end up with a TON of low-mileage good parts on them, put the best on your car, and you will have a bunch of extra parts to sell and recoup costs on. I've been through a number of JDM engines, they can be a great source for parts.
You may also want to check out Aaron Cake's Youtube video of rebuilding a 13b, it's a good video and shows a pretty realistic rebuild. There's also a DIY-RE rebuild video from Australia that is TERRIBLE, it's a 4 DVD set, it's edited poorly, WAY longer than it should be, and it shows a motor of NEW parts which most can't afford.
Also, do a LOT of reading, there's plenty on the topic. On the no pistons forum there's a great sub forum for engine building with a LOT of detail and expert posts in there.
Dale
Bruce Turrentine has an EXCELLENT video on rebuilding the 13b. He also has a video on how to remove and re-install the engine which is excellent.
Here's my recommendations -
- If you're going to do it yourself, be prepared to mess some things up. It's called a learning curve. You may very well have to go back and re-do things, even end up pulling and breaking the motor back apart. If you can accept that, go on.
- When pulling the motor, LABEL and PHOTOGRAPH EVERYTHING. I get a sharpie and a bunch of ziploc bags, small parts and bolts all go in labeled bags and are kept track of. Label all your wiring, take pictures of how the harnesses run, where things are plugged in, etc. I can't stress this enough, this is the area where a LOT of people mess up.
- THROW NOTHING OUT, DESTROY NOTHING. Don't just cut hoses or bust something to get it off the car or out of the way. The FD has MANY expensive parts. For example, the fuel lines going from the firewall to the engine? BIG money from Mazda. They're typically re-usable, take a minute and properly un-clamp and remove (and label) them. That will save a huge headache down the road. Even if you know you're replacing certain parts, save EVERYTHING. Quite possible you might need it again, only throw it out when you're sure you're done.
- Spend the time to do the job RIGHT. NEW OEM parts, get new Mazda coolant hoses, new oil metering pump lines, etc. When you're done, you should have a pile of clean, new, and nice parts in a clean and nice engine bay. Don't just slap a dirty motor together with ghetto rigged everything, that is what will kill you down the road.
- Double the amount you expect to spend on the rebuild and double the amount of time you think it will take. DON'T RUSH IT or CHEAP OUT. You need to have another car to get around in during the interim. Hell, you can easily blow a week just cleaning parts. You will be SO sick of cleaning parts by the time you are done, there's a TON of cleaning to do.
- If you get carried away and feel you just can't get the motor built right, you can easily have a good shop build the short block for you then you put that in the car. You'll save a lot of money pulling and reinstalling the motor.
- Getting a JDM engine as a core is a good idea. Don't buy it expecting a good motor, buy it as a collection of parts. You end up with a TON of low-mileage good parts on them, put the best on your car, and you will have a bunch of extra parts to sell and recoup costs on. I've been through a number of JDM engines, they can be a great source for parts.
You may also want to check out Aaron Cake's Youtube video of rebuilding a 13b, it's a good video and shows a pretty realistic rebuild. There's also a DIY-RE rebuild video from Australia that is TERRIBLE, it's a 4 DVD set, it's edited poorly, WAY longer than it should be, and it shows a motor of NEW parts which most can't afford.
Also, do a LOT of reading, there's plenty on the topic. On the no pistons forum there's a great sub forum for engine building with a LOT of detail and expert posts in there.
Dale
01-19-12 | 09:53 PM
#3
Dave
01-19-12 | 10:34 PM
#5
IMHO, putting together the shortblock is easier than all the crap that bolts on to it. It's also MUCH easier to build a rotary than a piston engine.
If you're mechanically inclined and have a buddy or two to help, you can do it.
Dale
If you're mechanically inclined and have a buddy or two to help, you can do it.
Dale
01-19-12 | 11:03 PM
#6
Keep to the right.
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 793
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From: Mascoutah, IL
Building the short-block from clean parts sitting on a table is relaxing and fun, and I agree with Dale that the building of the short-block is way easier than attaching all the crap that hangs off of it. Cleaning the parts properly, measuring, and tolerancing everything is the main PITA. Nothing about it is actually difficult, it's just time consuming and somewhat tedious, especially removing all the carbon and other gook from the rotors. You need to buy a parts washer ($100 from Harbor Freight...Not the best but it'll do.)
+1000 on the tip about organizing everything into labeled zip-lock bags. No matter how obvious you think something is, label it.
Don't skimp on the little things that go on after the short-block is built up. Replace the injector diffusors, all the o-rings in the fuel system, get your injectors cleaned at a place like WitchHunter, replace the OMP lines, replace all the copper crush washers, etc. etc. The money adds up but it's really necessary to avoid pain down the road.
I strongly recommend the Bruce Turrentine videos for R&R, and rebuilding. The criticism I have of them is that he didn't turn the stupid radio off in the background while filming. Otherwise they are great. AaronCake's video is also good and it's free, but that one is for the rebuild portion only.
If you do your research and take your time, you can do it.
+1000 on the tip about organizing everything into labeled zip-lock bags. No matter how obvious you think something is, label it.
Don't skimp on the little things that go on after the short-block is built up. Replace the injector diffusors, all the o-rings in the fuel system, get your injectors cleaned at a place like WitchHunter, replace the OMP lines, replace all the copper crush washers, etc. etc. The money adds up but it's really necessary to avoid pain down the road.
I strongly recommend the Bruce Turrentine videos for R&R, and rebuilding. The criticism I have of them is that he didn't turn the stupid radio off in the background while filming. Otherwise they are great. AaronCake's video is also good and it's free, but that one is for the rebuild portion only.
If you do your research and take your time, you can do it.
01-19-12 | 11:14 PM
#7
What I always tell folks when they asking about rebuilding themselves:
Don't do the rebuild yourself if you cannot afford the time or money to do it twice.
While the rebuild process may not be as involved as a piston motor, there seem to be more small things that if not gotten right will bite you. The problem is that what you don't know, you just don't know. There can be some expensive lessons to learn during the rebuild process.
If you are trying to do the rebuild yourself to save money, it probably won't work out that way. The mistakes you can and probably will make, will cost you more money in the end. Having a qualified builder do it right the first time will save you time and money in the end. If you think you are going to be rebuilding your own engines going forward (i.e. this won't be a one time thing), then you just have to understand and plan for mistakes (money and time-wise).
Don't do the rebuild yourself if you cannot afford the time or money to do it twice.
While the rebuild process may not be as involved as a piston motor, there seem to be more small things that if not gotten right will bite you. The problem is that what you don't know, you just don't know. There can be some expensive lessons to learn during the rebuild process.
If you are trying to do the rebuild yourself to save money, it probably won't work out that way. The mistakes you can and probably will make, will cost you more money in the end. Having a qualified builder do it right the first time will save you time and money in the end. If you think you are going to be rebuilding your own engines going forward (i.e. this won't be a one time thing), then you just have to understand and plan for mistakes (money and time-wise).
Trending Topics
01-20-12 | 12:06 AM
#8
Here is Aaron Cake's video
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/video-13b-rotary-engine-rebuild-945519/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/video-13b-rotary-engine-rebuild-945519/
01-20-12 | 03:25 AM
#9
Im thinking of doing the same. I have good compression block and one with 85psi. Once I get this garage organized I think I'll be tearing the low compression block open and see what I'm getting myself into. I have the Aaron cake video, Bruce, Atkins, and fsm of course
01-20-12 | 04:10 AM
#10
http://www.actechbooks.com/products/act410/
I need to clarify when I say I don't feel like shelling out the cash; I was considering having a shop do it but it was turning into a $10k+ job with all the extras I was looking at. I'm planning to keep this a bit more tame I think.
- When pulling the motor, LABEL and PHOTOGRAPH EVERYTHING. I get a sharpie and a bunch of ziploc bags, small parts and bolts all go in labeled bags and are kept track of. Label all your wiring, take pictures of how the harnesses run, where things are plugged in, etc. I can't stress this enough, this is the area where a LOT of people mess up.
- THROW NOTHING OUT, DESTROY NOTHING. Don't just cut hoses or bust something to get it off the car or out of the way. The FD has MANY expensive parts. For example, the fuel lines going from the firewall to the engine? BIG money from Mazda. They're typically re-usable, take a minute and properly un-clamp and remove (and label) them. That will save a huge headache down the road. Even if you know you're replacing certain parts, save EVERYTHING. Quite possible you might need it again, only throw it out when you're sure you're done.
- Spend the time to do the job RIGHT. NEW OEM parts, get new Mazda coolant hoses, new oil metering pump lines, etc. When you're done, you should have a pile of clean, new, and nice parts in a clean and nice engine bay. Don't just slap a dirty motor together with ghetto rigged everything, that is what will kill you down the road..
- THROW NOTHING OUT, DESTROY NOTHING. Don't just cut hoses or bust something to get it off the car or out of the way. The FD has MANY expensive parts. For example, the fuel lines going from the firewall to the engine? BIG money from Mazda. They're typically re-usable, take a minute and properly un-clamp and remove (and label) them. That will save a huge headache down the road. Even if you know you're replacing certain parts, save EVERYTHING. Quite possible you might need it again, only throw it out when you're sure you're done.
- Spend the time to do the job RIGHT. NEW OEM parts, get new Mazda coolant hoses, new oil metering pump lines, etc. When you're done, you should have a pile of clean, new, and nice parts in a clean and nice engine bay. Don't just slap a dirty motor together with ghetto rigged everything, that is what will kill you down the road..
- Double the amount you expect to spend on the rebuild and double the amount of time you think it will take. DON'T RUSH IT or CHEAP OUT. You need to have another car to get around in during the interim. Hell, you can easily blow a week just cleaning parts. You will be SO sick of cleaning parts by the time you are done, there's a TON of cleaning to do.
- If you get carried away and feel you just can't get the motor built right, you can easily have a good shop build the short block for you then you put that in the car. You'll save a lot of money pulling and reinstalling the motor.
- If you get carried away and feel you just can't get the motor built right, you can easily have a good shop build the short block for you then you put that in the car. You'll save a lot of money pulling and reinstalling the motor.
- Getting a JDM engine as a core is a good idea. Don't buy it expecting a good motor, buy it as a collection of parts. You end up with a TON of low-mileage good parts on them, put the best on your car, and you will have a bunch of extra parts to sell and recoup costs on. I've been through a number of JDM engines, they can be a great source for parts..
- You may also want to check out Aaron Cake's Youtube video of rebuilding a 13b, it's a good video and shows a pretty realistic rebuild. There's also a DIY-RE rebuild video from Australia that is TERRIBLE, it's a 4 DVD set, it's edited poorly, WAY longer than it should be, and it shows a motor of NEW parts which most can't afford.
Also, do a LOT of reading, there's plenty on the topic. On the no pistons forum there's a great sub forum for engine building with a LOT of detail and expert posts in there.
Dale
Also, do a LOT of reading, there's plenty on the topic. On the no pistons forum there's a great sub forum for engine building with a LOT of detail and expert posts in there.
Dale
01-20-12 | 08:37 AM
#11
Ok, I believe I found the remove and replace video 
If anyone else reads this and wants to order the dvds here is a link to the removal video and the overhaul video.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Books_videos.htm
If anyone else reads this and wants to order the dvds here is a link to the removal video and the overhaul video.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Books_videos.htm
Last edited by Uleepera; 01-20-12 at 08:40 AM. Reason: Additional info.
01-20-12 | 12:23 PM
#13
Mazda does sell a complete gasket and seal kit. For some reason the part number I had would not work on the dealers computers. Got my gasket kit through Mazda competition since I autocross. I recently rebuilt my engine without much fuss, and with great results. I do have a lot of experience with auto mechanics though, and have rebuilt a couple of piston engines previously.
01-20-12 | 01:17 PM
#14
Don't bother with your local Mazda dealer, talk to Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda, 888-533-3400. He'll get you the straight dope on parts, excellent prices, and just generally take care of you.
The full gasket kit is pricey because it has all the turbo gaskets with it. If you don't need everything you can buy the gaskets piecemeal.
I also recommend having a friend help out. A second set of eyes and hands always makes a big difference.
Special tools:
You don't really need many special tools to build a rotary, but there are some that help out a LOT. First motor I built I had a small plastic toolbox and that was it, it can be done, but good tools make things SO much easier.
List of them -
- Engine stand and adapter. Get the inexpensive 3-wheel stand from Harbor Freight, then get Pineapple Racing's engine stand adapter. This makes working on the motor a joy. You can build up the whole long block on the engine stand, sitting comfortably on a stool. You can also flip the engine upside-down to put the oil pan on.
- Big socket for the flywheel nut. Most get a 2 1/8" socket. If you have air tools and a good impact gun that should zing it right off. If not, you'll need some way to stop the engine from turning. I have a doodad that bolts to the back of the motor and engages the teeth on the flywheel, can't remember where I got it. You'll need something to prevent the engine from spinning to do both the front pulley bolt and flywheel nut.
- Set of feeler gauges to do side seals. Cheap at Harbor Freight.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base for checking end play. Also cheap at Harbor Freight. Pineapple Racing has a good video on how to do end play.
- Clutch alignment tool, obviously.
- If you don't have the pilot bearing removal tool and want to change the pilot bearing, you can maybe find a rotary shop within a reasonable driving distance. They probably have one and will probably knock it out for free. If not, read up, there's many other ways to do it. You don't have to buy one unless you'll be using it a LOT. Or, hell, ship me your eccentric shaft and I'll pop it out for return shipping.
On buying JDM engines, one thing to look at is if it's a '96+ engine. The later engines will have the aluminum crossover pipe (the Efini Y-pipe) and will also use the later computer, later harness, "black box" solenoids, etc. That means you get a cool Y-pipe but the harness, solenoids, etc. aren't easily useable in the US. If you see one that has a black plastic crossover pipe and a black plastic throttle body elbow, that's a '94 or '95 engine, which means it's newer and probably a bit healthier. That also increases the chance of getting the later N3C1 turbos which are much more resistant to cracking.
Most JDM engines also come with a transmission. Every JDM trans I've seen has been great, low mileage, works super.
Dale
The full gasket kit is pricey because it has all the turbo gaskets with it. If you don't need everything you can buy the gaskets piecemeal.
I also recommend having a friend help out. A second set of eyes and hands always makes a big difference.
Special tools:
You don't really need many special tools to build a rotary, but there are some that help out a LOT. First motor I built I had a small plastic toolbox and that was it, it can be done, but good tools make things SO much easier.
List of them -
- Engine stand and adapter. Get the inexpensive 3-wheel stand from Harbor Freight, then get Pineapple Racing's engine stand adapter. This makes working on the motor a joy. You can build up the whole long block on the engine stand, sitting comfortably on a stool. You can also flip the engine upside-down to put the oil pan on.
- Big socket for the flywheel nut. Most get a 2 1/8" socket. If you have air tools and a good impact gun that should zing it right off. If not, you'll need some way to stop the engine from turning. I have a doodad that bolts to the back of the motor and engages the teeth on the flywheel, can't remember where I got it. You'll need something to prevent the engine from spinning to do both the front pulley bolt and flywheel nut.
- Set of feeler gauges to do side seals. Cheap at Harbor Freight.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base for checking end play. Also cheap at Harbor Freight. Pineapple Racing has a good video on how to do end play.
- Clutch alignment tool, obviously.
- If you don't have the pilot bearing removal tool and want to change the pilot bearing, you can maybe find a rotary shop within a reasonable driving distance. They probably have one and will probably knock it out for free. If not, read up, there's many other ways to do it. You don't have to buy one unless you'll be using it a LOT. Or, hell, ship me your eccentric shaft and I'll pop it out for return shipping
.On buying JDM engines, one thing to look at is if it's a '96+ engine. The later engines will have the aluminum crossover pipe (the Efini Y-pipe) and will also use the later computer, later harness, "black box" solenoids, etc. That means you get a cool Y-pipe but the harness, solenoids, etc. aren't easily useable in the US. If you see one that has a black plastic crossover pipe and a black plastic throttle body elbow, that's a '94 or '95 engine, which means it's newer and probably a bit healthier. That also increases the chance of getting the later N3C1 turbos which are much more resistant to cracking.
Most JDM engines also come with a transmission. Every JDM trans I've seen has been great, low mileage, works super.
Dale
01-20-12 | 03:51 PM
#16
Check the link in my sig. for a feel at what's involved at pulling the block, stripping the external parts and then putting it all back together.
I have an original motor in my current FD and may try to rebuild it when it's needed. I definitely wouldn't try it if I hadn't pulled it once before.
I have an original motor in my current FD and may try to rebuild it when it's needed. I definitely wouldn't try it if I hadn't pulled it once before.
01-20-12 | 06:01 PM
#17
I live in clifton, NJ, if u want pm me the details on the seller, i can cehck out the motor for ya. I bought a jdm motor from a company called japanese engines direct out in paterson, nj several years ago, not sure if they are still around but I can try to find out for you.
01-20-12 | 07:30 PM
#18
I live in clifton, NJ, if u want pm me the details on the seller, i can cehck out the motor for ya. I bought a jdm motor from a company called japanese engines direct out in paterson, nj several years ago, not sure if they are still around but I can try to find out for you.
The place is called JDM Engine Zone. The addy is 314 Colfax Ave, Clifton, NJ 07013. # is 877-249-7990. Ever heard of them?
Any idea if they are as bad as Tiger Japanese from their reviews?
They said they keep multiple engines in stock so I could come look and pick one out I liked.
01-22-12 | 11:16 AM
#19
I had a very nice detailed post for you and the piston gods decided to intervene.
Anyway, I would highly advise that you rethink the rebuild process. To do the job correctly requires buying many tools that WILL cost more than what a typically shop charges to assemble the engine. Furthermore, if you do decide to build it your own, you make a mistake, and then try to bring it to a reputable shop to salvage you'll likely find that it will cost even more money to do it right. Typically a good rotary shop will not reuse your clearance parts (sideseals and apex seals) and will also make you buy new soft seals not limited to coolant seals, oil control o-rings, ext...
I've seen very smart, talented, and extremely knowledgeable forum remembers attempt rebuilds ultimately to end up buying or having a professional build a motor. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it either way. I would say for your first rebuild there's the likelihood of a 80%+ chance that something will have improper clearance, broken, pinched, or my personal favorite installed BACKWARDS.
I personally build and rotary engines and manufacture rotary related parts for a living. I am absolutely not the most productive hands down as I double check things and personally do way too much cleaning of engine parts (ultrasonic cleaning).
I could personally recommend many great fellow rotary shops in and around you to take on the process. I would at the absolute minimum have the shortblock rebuild by a reputable shop. If you want to be/get involved do the rest of the assembly yourself in longblock and lower the engine back in.
Many good shops are just like mine; we educate and communicate with the customer as it helps us know exactly what extra options the customer might be needing. I think it would be very unlikely that a shop would just scoop up your motor and tell you to be back in a month to pick it up, it wouldn't benefit them nor would it benefit you.
I would say grab a cup of coffee sit down and write everything you want to do to the car, what you want to do with the car, and in what time frame you would like to be up and running. If any of your intentions around racing or dealing with a single turbo conversion do not build it yourself. If you're looking at staying stock form and are willing to accept that you could waste many months trying to educate yourself on how to build something that you will never do again then go for it.
Not trying to come of mean or to demoralize anything you believe I just have had many people bring me their own mistakes and get angry with ME and them-self over something I had no hand in. Just trying to save another rotary heartbeat here...
Anyway, I would highly advise that you rethink the rebuild process. To do the job correctly requires buying many tools that WILL cost more than what a typically shop charges to assemble the engine. Furthermore, if you do decide to build it your own, you make a mistake, and then try to bring it to a reputable shop to salvage you'll likely find that it will cost even more money to do it right. Typically a good rotary shop will not reuse your clearance parts (sideseals and apex seals) and will also make you buy new soft seals not limited to coolant seals, oil control o-rings, ext...
I've seen very smart, talented, and extremely knowledgeable forum remembers attempt rebuilds ultimately to end up buying or having a professional build a motor. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it either way. I would say for your first rebuild there's the likelihood of a 80%+ chance that something will have improper clearance, broken, pinched, or my personal favorite installed BACKWARDS.
I personally build and rotary engines and manufacture rotary related parts for a living. I am absolutely not the most productive hands down as I double check things and personally do way too much cleaning of engine parts (ultrasonic cleaning).
I could personally recommend many great fellow rotary shops in and around you to take on the process. I would at the absolute minimum have the shortblock rebuild by a reputable shop. If you want to be/get involved do the rest of the assembly yourself in longblock and lower the engine back in.
Many good shops are just like mine; we educate and communicate with the customer as it helps us know exactly what extra options the customer might be needing. I think it would be very unlikely that a shop would just scoop up your motor and tell you to be back in a month to pick it up, it wouldn't benefit them nor would it benefit you.
I would say grab a cup of coffee sit down and write everything you want to do to the car, what you want to do with the car, and in what time frame you would like to be up and running. If any of your intentions around racing or dealing with a single turbo conversion do not build it yourself. If you're looking at staying stock form and are willing to accept that you could waste many months trying to educate yourself on how to build something that you will never do again then go for it.
Not trying to come of mean or to demoralize anything you believe I just have had many people bring me their own mistakes and get angry with ME and them-self over something I had no hand in. Just trying to save another rotary heartbeat here...
01-26-12 | 01:57 AM
#20
Mono,
I've partially done what you suggested. I started out by watching all of Aaron's videos and ordered the rotary aviation videos as well. So far I just watched the remove and install from them.
I would like to have the car up and running around April ideally although I wouldn't lose sleep if it was May.
So I thought about my goal. I would like to be able to take the car to some HPDE events this year and learn more with hands on experience about racing in general. As a result I think it would be handy to understand the inner works of the car as well as how to build it up if I'm going to race it. I would also like to do some shows with one of the local RX7 owners in my area that I talk to occasionally.
As far as pulling the engine from what I can tell I would need to rent/buy a shop crane, an engine stand, a torque wrench and a parts cleaner. Aside from that I believe I have everything required already. However I am not worried if I have to make some additional equipment purchases.
My one concern with doing this myself if that I do not have anyone that I can say reliably would be able to help.
I'm not terribly worried about admitting defeat and would likely be the first (after some hemming and hawing) to toss in the towel if I got over my head.
My plan thus far is as follows
1. Pull engine and look for reusable parts
2. Pick up JSpec engine for parts or potential 2nd engine to use as a backup
3. Gut and clean everything twice and then once more for good measure considering this motor has 124k miles on it.
4. Have the ports resized with a street port and exhaust porting
5. In the air about having the shaft and housings cryo treated as I am finding mixed reviews on the actual benefit of doing this
6. Swap out the stock twins for a BNR Stage 3 Turbo set
7. Replace the stock radiator and the currently upgraded intercooler
8. Replace all vacuum lines with silicone
9. Replace ALL seals and gaskets
10. Inspect and potentially swap out the entire brake system if necessary
11. Replace front and rear pillow ***** and bushings as well as arms if necessary.
12. Have the transmission rebuilt and potentially cryo-treated
13. Replace the whole suspension
14. Install meth/water kit
15. Install dual oil cooler kit
16. Install EMU maybe Power FC? and take it somewhere to be properly tuned
17. If racing is something I decide to stick with have the car caged
Body Mods: TBD – However I would prefer to open the engine bay up a bit more for air flow
Minus the brakes, pillows/bushings and suspension this is roughly what I was originally toying around with and had been estimated around $10k for completion.
Thoughts?
I've partially done what you suggested. I started out by watching all of Aaron's videos and ordered the rotary aviation videos as well. So far I just watched the remove and install from them.
I would like to have the car up and running around April ideally although I wouldn't lose sleep if it was May.
So I thought about my goal. I would like to be able to take the car to some HPDE events this year and learn more with hands on experience about racing in general. As a result I think it would be handy to understand the inner works of the car as well as how to build it up if I'm going to race it. I would also like to do some shows with one of the local RX7 owners in my area that I talk to occasionally.
As far as pulling the engine from what I can tell I would need to rent/buy a shop crane, an engine stand, a torque wrench and a parts cleaner. Aside from that I believe I have everything required already. However I am not worried if I have to make some additional equipment purchases.
My one concern with doing this myself if that I do not have anyone that I can say reliably would be able to help.
I'm not terribly worried about admitting defeat and would likely be the first (after some hemming and hawing) to toss in the towel if I got over my head.
My plan thus far is as follows
1. Pull engine and look for reusable parts
2. Pick up JSpec engine for parts or potential 2nd engine to use as a backup
3. Gut and clean everything twice and then once more for good measure considering this motor has 124k miles on it.
4. Have the ports resized with a street port and exhaust porting
5. In the air about having the shaft and housings cryo treated as I am finding mixed reviews on the actual benefit of doing this
6. Swap out the stock twins for a BNR Stage 3 Turbo set
7. Replace the stock radiator and the currently upgraded intercooler
8. Replace all vacuum lines with silicone
9. Replace ALL seals and gaskets
10. Inspect and potentially swap out the entire brake system if necessary
11. Replace front and rear pillow ***** and bushings as well as arms if necessary.
12. Have the transmission rebuilt and potentially cryo-treated
13. Replace the whole suspension
14. Install meth/water kit
15. Install dual oil cooler kit
16. Install EMU maybe Power FC? and take it somewhere to be properly tuned
17. If racing is something I decide to stick with have the car caged
Body Mods: TBD – However I would prefer to open the engine bay up a bit more for air flow
Minus the brakes, pillows/bushings and suspension this is roughly what I was originally toying around with and had been estimated around $10k for completion.
Thoughts?
01-26-12 | 11:19 AM
#21
I believe there is an engine stand adapter made for the rotary motor. As a noob to engine building im interested to see how you do and what you think of the videos. There is also a group buy on aftermarket turbo solenoids and you might consider what parts you want ceramic coated.
01-26-12 | 11:26 AM
#23
pay attention to details.
even the videos do not explain everything to look for.
want to know how i learned these engines so well? because my first took 3 attempts to get it figured out. why? electrolysis. something not explained to look for, but also not a really common issue found.
just be prepared as mentioned to possibly have to do it several times to get it right.
i became practically an expert at pulling and ripping apart the motors by the time i was done with even my first working rebuild, it was also quite disappointing firing it up several times seeing clouds of smoke spew forth from burning coolant on a fresh engine, replace one known faulty housing to find the second also faulty in a different spot... it can definitely try your wallet and patience.
even the videos do not explain everything to look for.
want to know how i learned these engines so well? because my first took 3 attempts to get it figured out. why? electrolysis. something not explained to look for, but also not a really common issue found.
just be prepared as mentioned to possibly have to do it several times to get it right.
i became practically an expert at pulling and ripping apart the motors by the time i was done with even my first working rebuild, it was also quite disappointing firing it up several times seeing clouds of smoke spew forth from burning coolant on a fresh engine, replace one known faulty housing to find the second also faulty in a different spot... it can definitely try your wallet and patience.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-26-12 at 11:32 AM.
01-26-12 | 11:42 AM
#24
Take one thing at a time, worry about rebuilding the engine first. You may end up screwing something up like me I screwed up the side seal clearance so I had to buy a whole new set of side seals. Be patient
01-26-12 | 01:41 PM
#25
I believe there is an engine stand adapter made for the rotary motor. As a noob to engine building im interested to see how you do and what you think of the videos. There is also a group buy on aftermarket turbo solenoids and you might consider what parts you want ceramic coated.