CarbonFD3Assault

Well, this is my Baby!

it shipped out of Japan today, meaning I get to save up a bit of money for my first mods when I get it!
I know I will be getting rims/tires as I have to.

however, I'm stuck for 2 things...
Koyo/Fluidyne Radiator?
and Bonez/Greddy/HKS/Motegi (for you Fast and Furious Kids) Exhaust?!

any feedback based on experience is welcome.

I'm fully aware of the Search button, and I have done my own research,
I just would appreciate feedback based on experience,

THANK YOU!

tragic00

first mods with an fd should always be for reliability.

basically you cant go wrong with an intake, koyo/fluidyne radiator, intercooler, and catback, you'll never have a heating problem after those

CarbonFD3Assault

based on my budget, yes, reliability mods are going to be my first.

I will be getting a straight exhaust, down pipe, to mid pipe, to muffler.
no catalytic converter.
I don't know what brand name to get though,..

between Fluidyne and Koyo, I know that Fluidyne is slightly larger,
from what I hear, Fluidyne is slightly better. but, I may be wrong.

Intercooler I can't do immediately.
that's NEXT.

tragic00

also alot of people prefer running a hi-flo cat rather than a midpipe for reliability reasons

djseven

iTrader: (56)

New fuel pulsation dampner, new fuel lines, new coolant lines, new thermostat, FC thermoswitch, downpipe, radiator, aluminum ast or delete ast, nice set of wheels (should be mandatory on all fds).

Then enjoy.

JStrib

iTrader: (6)

+1

baggedoutmazda

i've had my jdm for 1 year now, first thing i did was change all fluids just to be sure, then plugs/wires/fuel filter, u never know what they did to it before u got it. compression test just for piece of mind, o-yea 1 more thing i learned the hard way, jdm down pipes are cut out to fit by steering shaft.

Jaime Enriquez

...the 3rd gen rule always seems to be "no full exhaust" without computer mods. I would start with the Apexi PowerFC, then do the rest. Radiator along with different AST (metal, alloy). Also check your vacuum lines, if original, do the silicone mod. with zip ties. These first mods. will assure your motor doesn't hand-grenade and you get to enjoy the car.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Reliability mods: Yes

Full Exhaust: No


There are many, MANY threads out regarding which mods should go into an FD first, for reliability sake. Please read them.

A free flow exhaust does not automatically require an aftermarket computer, however boosting above 11-12psi does. The lack of any restrictions in your exhaust WILL make you overboost unless you've got a good controller.

As I've said in other threads, my suggestion on mods would go a little something like this (assuming the car is bone stock): (in order of importance)

Have a specialist give it a once-over, perform compression test
Boost gauge
Radiator
Downpipe (not as critical for you since you don't have a pre-cat)
Aluminum AST
Vac hose/check valve replacement
PFC/commander (base map, or base mod map is fine. No need for a tune just yet)
Intake
Cat-back
SMIC (Stock Mount InterCooler)
re-wire stock fuel pump
New spark plugs (NGK BUR9EQP's all around)
Tune ECU for 12psi (and 10.8ish-11.1 afr) with a margin for error at top end (aka, fuel dump)

G.KAKKOS

The very first mod for reliability should be a PFC..
Be careful with the base map, It seems to be lean in some cases..

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Um... that's not really correct. The stock ECU is fine for stock boost levels and a programmable ECU is really only needed when you begin to go beyond 11psi.

If you can maintain 10-11psi of boost than you're fine on the stocker. And the base map (or base mod map, depending on PFC series) on the PFC is pretty darn safe. Unless you bought yours brand new, any issues you may have experienced with your PFC leaning out was probably due to a change in the maps by the previous owner.


Ask Clive over on MRC (he's the owner of the site) how dangerous the stock ECU is.

salamander

I would do the following:

Change all your filters and fluids (fuel and air) and spark plugs (and maybe spark plug wires). Make sure not to use a high sulfur oil in the transmission or differential.
Inspect your brake pads and replace if necessary.
Examine your cooling hoses and replace those if necessary.
Upgrade your grounding system.
Inspect the tires for uneven or excessive wear and replace if necessary.
If tire wear was uneven or you hear a clunking in the rear end, inspect and replace bushings (trailing arms/toe links most likely).
Have the fuel injectors cleaned.
Do a compression test before attempting anything related to power increases, including any modifications to the exhaust, intake, intercooler or ecu.
If you plan to modify exhaust (pre-cat, cat or catback), intake or intercooler, then install a PFC and an upgraded fuel pump before you make more than two mods.

Kotetsu

I almost agree with everything I've read above.

According to your car's look, it must be a zenki version, probably a 1st or 2nd generation.

So theses models have more issues than model of 5th and 6th generations, especially the cooling.

Radiator and hoses (carefull check will be the best), aluminium AST. Intercooler won't change anything to the temperature. However you could replace its piping, especially replace the zenki y-pipe by a kouki model (what you guy call efini y-pipe).

Do NOT use a stright pipe instead of the catalyzer. You'll have pressur peeks that will be dangerous to the engine. If you plan to keep the stock turbines, prefer a high flow catayzer instead (Sard and Apexi are reasonably cheap).

You'll need to remove part of the steerling in order to install the downpipe and it'll certainly be a pain in the ***.

Installing a power FC with a base map doesn't make sense. It won't bring anything but a bigger hole in your bank account if you don't plan a complete remapping once you've finished your mods. I'm doing it right now and installing the PFC in replacement of the stock ECU didn't change anything (once it's programmed will be another story though).

I also agree with SMIC for stock turbines. FMIC kits exists but it'll be more volume to fill for your turbos and a temperature rise because obstructing the way to the radiator (interesting for bigger setups I think). Anyway, I bought the GReddy Spec-R SMIC and it really changed my car behavior. Sharper and a little more kick. Combine with a good intake like the ARC or similar will be better than big filters like HKS ou Apexi that suck warm air...

As well, pay attention to weak points of the FD. For instance, the clucth master cylinder is often going down on these cars...

Good luck for your mods.

Here's a list of mine (engine only) that can be of any help, maybe:

6ht gen engine overhaul
GReddy Spec R SMIC
Aluminium AST
ARC induction box
SSQV blowoff valve
HKS front pipe
Apexi Super catayzer
Blitz Nur Cat back
Apexi Power FC (mapping will be done shortly)

The car is already damn fast and I can't wait for the mapping results...

G.KAKKOS

I 'll disagree with you.. I belive that even at 10-11psi with an aftermarcet ecu properly tuned, the car will become much safer.

I bought mine pfc brand new.
On my car i had about 14:1 on boost with the base map!
The only mod was a Greddy exchaust with stock cat.

I was shocked back then!!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I don't think you should buy anything until the car arrives.

First maintenance. Second reliability mods. Third come the fun mods. So far you've been focusing on reliability and fun stuff, when in reality the maintenance is the biggest and most important variable.

On that line of thinking, the money best spent is to schedule with a rotary specialist shop to have them go thru with a fine-toothed comb and look for maintenance work.

Dave

PS: don't do the full exhaust now. get a boost gauge and leave the main cat in until you fully understand the boost your car is making and what you need to make the higher flow mods work.