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Hey gang, just wanted to intro my newly bought non-running whip. Finally found a decent RHD FD after searching for years. Checked the main boxes like slicktop, needing work, cheap - yet not completely thrashed and rusted. This will be a true test of the lessons learned working on TII's for 25 years. I've already got questions (e.g. location of airbag sensors, how odometer is lit, finding NLA parts, why AST?, passing emissions, and on and on). Restoration here we go... Stockalicious
Welcome to the group. I'm also an FD newb, but I can answer 1 of your questions already as I have my odometer apart right now. The odometer is backlit from a bulb that is installed on the backside of the speedometer electronics. Unfortunately it does require removing the whole gauge unit to service, which also unfortunately means you have to remove the gauge hood which is notorious for breaking and is quite expensive to replace. Odometer failure is also fairly common (why I have mine apart right now), but is well documented so if you're handy with a soldering iron, it's not too painful to fix. a quick search will get you lots of threads on the topic.
Cool, thanks @need a rx7 & @SETaylor .
Center airbag sensor died 'open', so I'll likely strip out airbag system entirely. Not sure why I have cruise controls on the wheel and underwood with a slicktop. Could cruise control have been added to the 'base' model (no Bose system)?
So many issues to fix that I'm super reliant on the forum again.
Now I can't start the thing. It started and was running OK (roughly and super rich) initially, but now it won't start. It's definitely flooded. https://imgur.com/a/no-start-flooded-Y0OTkeZ
1st time I've ever had no luck with starting fluid.
Not sure why I have cruise controls on the wheel and underwood with a slicktop. Could cruise control have been added to the 'base' model (no Bose system)?
Cruise control was standard on the FD in the US. It was excluded from the R1 & R2 cars... I don't know why.
...I find it a little amusing you have fender vents on a car with no front aero…
Yeah, the fenders are paper-thin fiberglass, cheap, and the vents are faux (like most 60-70's muscle car vents). They're headed for the trash unless someone wants them (come and get 'em from LBC).
Surprisingly, stock fenders from Mazda are available and reasonable priced although I'm considering the FEED versions in the front due to the extra width.
Not sure why I have cruise controls on the wheel and underwood with a slicktop. Could cruise control have been added to the 'base' model (no Bose system)?
You have a RHD, meaning USDM trims do not apply so go check out JDM or AUS trims to figure what your car came with. Since you mentioned slicktops, an interesting thing is that sunroof equipped third gens are on the rare side with RHD FD's and IIRC Mazda didn't make any past 1998.
Will measure fuel pressure ASAP when I pickup a gage. It must be running high???
I think your problem is compression:
The general guideline for how good, or bad, the scores are, WHEN NORMALIZED TO 250 RPM AT SEA LEVEL!
8.5 and up: Congratulations, you have a stellar engine! Compression scores this high are rare. If you think that this may be too high, there may have been excessive oil in the housing.
8.0-8.4: This is a very good engine! You should have very good power and as long as you stay on top of the rest of the failure points possible, it should last a long time
7.5-7.9: This is an acceptable engine. Most engines from Mazda seem to be in this range after the break-in period. Stay on top of the other failure points possible, and you should get at least 40-60k more out of this engine, if not more.
7.0-7.4: The engine has some life left in it, but start looking for replacement options. Compression loss is going to start speeding up from blow-by combustion gasses eating away at the seals.
6.5-6.9: Officially failing. The engine doesn't have all that long to 'live'. Compression loss is accelerating due to blow-by.
6.0-6.4: Failing significantly. Very prone to flooding even with new starter, battery, and ignition. It will have trouble starting when hot, power loss especially down low, and noticeable difficulty idling.
5.5-5.9: Failing badly. Extremely prone to flooding. Will be nearly impossible to keep it idling when hot. Significant power loss.
5.0-5.4: This engine is probably only able to start with a pull start, daily use is nearly impossible.
Under 5.0: How is this engine even running!?!
Edit- Wait you said COLD compression numbers... I think when cold the compression should be even higher.
Cruise control was standard on the FD in the US. It was excluded from the R1 & R2 cars... I don't know why.
Marketing strategy. These cars are basically the same in performance so Mazda had to offer some options for any particular trim while at the same time removing others. Otherwise what is the draw? For instance they could have easily added the second oil cooler to the base and touring as well yet they didn't.
??? That is not a RHD engine bay, look at the brake booster. It looks like a US car to me
Indeed, also take a look at the other picture - you can see the instrument hood on the left side of the dash. This is a LHD FD, US market or elsewhere.
My bad - it''s a US Spec LHD car (obviously).
I've modded everything I've touched for 50+ years now. Finally ready to tolerate OEM stock, at least temporarily.
Added one mod though - an Aluminum AST acquired way back got fitted. I'm now convinced that an AST isn't needed and expect to mod the filler neck to remove it.
Living in California is killing me. I fought the law and the law won.
Finally ready to tolerate OEM stock, at least temporarily..
you're in luck, the FD is the most fun, when its pretty close to stock.
you can make it faster, but the fun goes away really fast, usually gets replaced with paranoia.
you're in luck, the FD is the most fun, when its pretty close to stock.
you can make it faster, but the fun goes away really fast, usually gets replaced with paranoia.
making a car faster it is fun, but it doesn't necessarily make the car more fun...
especially tire upgrades on something like a Miata or 86. hahaha.
I am just now seeing that the car doesn't run.
Do you know what the issue is? Spark or fuel?
The cold compression you have should be enough to at least get the car started.
The cold compression you have should be enough to at least get the car started.
Totally agree about sufficient compression to start.
Ignition seems good as confirmed with the HFT in-line spark tester light.
I believe it's overfueling since it reeks of raw gas badly during cranking. I suspect a fuel injector is stuck-open since the car was sitting in storage for many years. Not sure how to confirm this though. Plugs are fresh, but dusted with a surface layer of carbon.
I'll start by removing fuel pump fuse during cranking until it fires (needs fuel cut switch like the FC). Measuring fuel pressure is in the cards.
Totally agree about sufficient compression to start.
Ignition seems good as confirmed with the HFT in-line spark tester light.
I believe it's overfueling since it reeks of raw fuel badly during cranking. I'm now thinking stuck-open(?) fuel injector since the car was sitting in storage for many years. Not sure how to confirm this though. Plugs are fresh, but dusted with a surface layer of carbon.
I'll start by removing fuel pump fuse during cranking until it fires (needs fuel cut switch like the FC). Measuring fuel pressure is in the cards.
One of the first things I did when I got my FD (which was basically a parts car with a good engine) was pull the injectors and get them cleaned and balanced. I would go ahead and get that done and check/replace the vacuum hoses while you're at it. Turns out the reason my engine didn't run right at first was just a loose ground, though...
I'm now convinced that an AST isn't needed and expect to mod the filler neck to remove it.
You would be right. The AST is really just there to help burp the system and IMO it causes more issues than it is worth.
Originally Posted by cone_crushr
Living in California is killing me. I fought the law and the law won.
I hear that lol. In any case, if you ever get tired of a stock FD know that just some simple bolt ons and a couple of lbs of boost changes everything without affecting reliability. It is when we start messing with the injectors when issues typically arise.
BTW congratulations on your long search finally paying off.
PS if you are missing your headlight covers I suggest you look up sakebomb's metal replacements. They are a bit pricey but pay off in the end because they won't break off like our plastic stock ones.
PS if you are missing your headlight covers I suggest you look up sakebomb's metal replacements. They are a bit pricey but pay off in the end because they won't break off like our plastic stock ones.
I'll argue here that they are totally superfluous due to the cost. Just buy a couple sets of OEM and have them painted at the same time and you're good for 60 years or more. It'll still be cheaper than buying an SBG set.
I'll argue here that they are totally superfluous due to the cost. Just buy a couple sets of OEM and have them painted at the same time and you're good for 60 years or more. It'll still be cheaper than buying an SBG set.
I agree with this logic with one caveat/exception. I suspect that the vast majority of the OEM headlight covers end up prematurely cracking their plastic mounting tabs/ribs when careless mechanics or owners lean on the headlight covers while servicing the car. So if you're a DIY mechanic and can guarantee that no one will ever lean or press on your headlight covers, then the OEM plastic covers will last a very long time. Yes, age, heat/cold cycles & UV exposure will eventually degrade the plastic over time and they will break some day, but as long as OEM covers are still available for about $150 each, that's not soon enough to justify the $650-ish expense of switching to a pair of the SBG covers. OTOH, if you're the type of FD owner who drops off his FD at a shop for every little routine service, then the risk of OEM cover breakage goes up exponentially, and the cost of the SBG covers is like insurance.
So my take on the headlight cover issue (besides the surprise realizing stock are plastic) is that paying over $700 (tax) for headlight covers is unjustifiable primarily because the part is ultimately cosmetic. They weigh more than stock also so there's a even a (trivial) performance hit. I love the idea of aluminum covers and appreciate SBG for making them, but I can't afford that kind of luxury when I'm not even sure my emissions plan stands a chance of success in Cali. CARB dread .
Actually my covers are made from an even better material option - fiberglass. Problem is, they're crappy knockoffs without any mounting clips. The plan is attempt to epoxy-bond retaining tabs to these and see if they hold.
The needed parts list for this non-runner is long. Expected costs just to make it streetable is over ~$10K. With another $10K in unnecessary but nice goodies like Ohlins coilovers, fixing the likely shot 5th gear synchro, and other suspension link mods (prolly from Megan Racing). And that depends on a cheap refresh of the stock engine with 87K original miles. Admittedly I'm not sure I can resist a new Mazda keg @ ~$9K. So far that plan is dubious since I can't even start it.
I agree with @Valkyrie though, and contended with the rats nest this weekend to successfully extract the fuel injectors . Sending them to Advanced Injector in KS since Witchhunter closed in Dec 2023. While working on TII's has prepped me for the FD, I'm still shocked by the insanely complicated rats nest which I'm not sure I can replumb even with the awesome color solenoid diagram. New Viton hose and check valves on the way. We'll see...
So my take on the headlight cover issue (besides the surprise realizing stock are plastic) is that paying over $700 (tax) for headlight covers is unjustifiable primarily because the part is ultimately cosmetic. They weigh more than stock also so there's a even a (trivial) performance hit. I love the idea of aluminum covers and appreciate SBG for making them, but I can't afford that kind of luxury when I'm not even sure my emissions plan stands a chance of success in Cali. CARB dread .
Actually my covers are made from an even better material option - fiberglass. Problem is, they're crappy knockoffs without any mounting clips. The plan is attempt to epoxy-bond retaining clips to these and see if they hold.
The needed parts list for this non-runner is long. Expected costs just to make it streetable is over ~$10K. With another $10K in unnecessary but nice goodies like Ohlins coilovers, fixing the likely shot 5th gear synchro, and other suspension link mods (prolly from Megan Racing). And that depends on a cheap refresh of the stock engine with 87K original miles. Admittedly I'm not sure I can resist a new Mazda keg @ ~$9K. So far that plan is dubious since I can't even start it.
I agree with @Valkyrie though, and contended with the rats nest this weekend to successfully extract the fuel injectors . Sending them to Advanced Injector in KS since Witchhunter closed in Dec 2023. While working on TII's has prepped me for the FD, I'm still shocked by the insanely complicated rats nest which I'm not sure I can replumb even with the awesome color solenoid diagram. New Viton hose and check valves on the way. We'll see...
I will have to see the fitment before I can even consider the Aluminum ones, I do all my own work but still would like to have something stronger than stock even though mine have lasted 30 years already, I'm just paranoid.
Not sure if it will help you or not but I made a video a little bit ago about restoring the rats nest and fuel system. It's really not that bad if you just take a step back and take your time to understand the diagram, it looks a lot worse than it is.
While working on TII's has prepped me for the FD, I'm still shocked by the insanely complicated rats nest which I'm not sure I can replumb even with the awesome color solenoid diagram. New Viton hose and check valves on the way. We'll see...
so the T2 kind of doesn't prepare you for the FD. the FD is meant to come apart, and so its way easier than the T2, if you let it.
(i just helped an S4 na to US Spec S4 T2, and it was WAY harder than my FD engine in an FC)
08-07-24, 11:42 PM
Finally graduated into a 1993 FD (the GOAT)
I'll actually measure it and find out how much.
.
. Sending them to Advanced Injector in KS since Witchhunter closed in Dec 2023. While working on TII's has prepped me for the FD, I'm still shocked by the insanely complicated rats nest which I'm not sure I can replumb even with the awesome color solenoid diagram. New Viton hose and check valves on the way. We'll see...
