A few quick questions finalizing engine install
#1
A few quick questions finalizing engine install
Just about completed my FD engine rebuild project but I have a few quick questions
for knowledgeable guys here, mainly because I didn't take enough pics I guess ...
The stock airbox ... where does the hose highlighted in yellow terminate ?
I couldn't find a hose sleeve under or behind the airbox ???
Also how is the airbox halves joined on the fender side ?
Are there three places where tabs fit inside the other half ?
Mine appears to have broken plastic tabs and was just wired to the bottom half
which risks putting a lot of unfiltered air into turbos if it doesn't seal fully.
Just wondering if there is an easy fix short of ordering a replacement box
or going with an aftermarket CAI that I can't afford ATM.
Where does the engine harness eyelet end connect on the thick wire
highlighted in yellow in the final pic ?
Not sure if the harness above it was original to 1993 touring cars or added afterwards ?
I thought it might be for the Clifford car alarm because it doesn't look like factory wiring.
Two eyelets connected to the two inline fuses connect to the positive fusebox terminal
and I don't recall where the unconnected eyelet gets mounted ?
Finally, when starting engine for the 1st time what are the best steps to take ?
Should I just turn it over a few seconds at a time until fuel reaches spark plugs
and risk a dead battery ? ...
or pre-pressurize fuel lines 1st, by jumpering diagnostic box fuel pump terminals
with ignition on ?
Thanks for this and any other recommendations I might have missed.
I'm almost sure there will be other issues ... but fingers crossed
for knowledgeable guys here, mainly because I didn't take enough pics I guess ...
The stock airbox ... where does the hose highlighted in yellow terminate ?
I couldn't find a hose sleeve under or behind the airbox ???
Also how is the airbox halves joined on the fender side ?
Are there three places where tabs fit inside the other half ?
Mine appears to have broken plastic tabs and was just wired to the bottom half
which risks putting a lot of unfiltered air into turbos if it doesn't seal fully.
Just wondering if there is an easy fix short of ordering a replacement box
or going with an aftermarket CAI that I can't afford ATM.
Where does the engine harness eyelet end connect on the thick wire
highlighted in yellow in the final pic ?
Not sure if the harness above it was original to 1993 touring cars or added afterwards ?
I thought it might be for the Clifford car alarm because it doesn't look like factory wiring.
Two eyelets connected to the two inline fuses connect to the positive fusebox terminal
and I don't recall where the unconnected eyelet gets mounted ?
Finally, when starting engine for the 1st time what are the best steps to take ?
Should I just turn it over a few seconds at a time until fuel reaches spark plugs
and risk a dead battery ? ...
or pre-pressurize fuel lines 1st, by jumpering diagnostic box fuel pump terminals
with ignition on ?
Thanks for this and any other recommendations I might have missed.
I'm almost sure there will be other issues ... but fingers crossed
Last edited by Blk 93; 05-02-16 at 10:33 PM.
#2
That hose for the air box connects to nothing. It kind of just rests on the intercooler support beam in a malleable clamp. The two halves of the air box should be joined by inserting the tabs under the "loops" of the lower box and then rested so the bolts can be installed. As long as the box makes a decent seal around the filter it should be ok if some tabs are broken. Not seeing the eyelets in the picture for the harness. Finally, I would turn the key forward and prime to bleed the lines, remove the key, put the key in and prime one more time, then go for the cranks until she fires up.
Matt
Matt
#3
Thanks Matt,
I remember that maleable clamp on the cross brace ... and wondered what it held.
I guess I'll pick up some sort of filter to stick into the hose end.
Haven't quite figured out how to secure the box halves, tabs are all gone
Maybe I'll get a nylon banding tool or just a bunch of foot long cable ties for now.
I remember that maleable clamp on the cross brace ... and wondered what it held.
I guess I'll pick up some sort of filter to stick into the hose end.
Haven't quite figured out how to secure the box halves, tabs are all gone
Maybe I'll get a nylon banding tool or just a bunch of foot long cable ties for now.
Last edited by Blk 93; 05-04-16 at 10:00 PM.
#4
Cable ties will work I suppose. Not very elegant, but functional. Wire or zip-tie 'loops' could also probably be made.
No need for a filter on the hose. It's a vent.
With a fully charged battery (put a charger on it if you must) I would pull the EGI and crank the engine for maybe 30 seconds or so to get some oil pressure. Replace fuse and continue until it starts. It will likely be lumpy, keep it going with the throttle until it will idle on it's own. With assembly lube, anti-seize etc. burning up, it will likely smoke enough to hide a battleship. Let it run until that goes away and it comes up to temperature.
If you have a good set of used plugs put them in initially. When everything burns off put new plugs in.
No need for a filter on the hose. It's a vent.
With a fully charged battery (put a charger on it if you must) I would pull the EGI and crank the engine for maybe 30 seconds or so to get some oil pressure. Replace fuse and continue until it starts. It will likely be lumpy, keep it going with the throttle until it will idle on it's own. With assembly lube, anti-seize etc. burning up, it will likely smoke enough to hide a battleship. Let it run until that goes away and it comes up to temperature.
If you have a good set of used plugs put them in initially. When everything burns off put new plugs in.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 05-04-16 at 11:10 AM.
#5
I had the same problem (broken tabs) and just drove a couple wood screws through the lip flange that connects the lower to upper intake box
#6
Thanks guys, Just looking for a short term fix on the airbox for now.
Screws make me nervous because the filter is so close to the lip there,
but it would look better.
I still can't figure out whether that thick cable highlighted below
and originating from the fusebox next to it goes to the positive battery terminal ?
or to ground ? I've never had the car running, so not sure.
The cable is heavy gauge, about 12-18" long and is bolted at the back
section of that trapezoidal fusebox.
Can anybody check for me ? It would do a lot of damage if I get it wrong.
Other fuseboxes suggest it should go to +12v, but want to be 100% certain
before connecting it to the battery terminal.
Thanks in advance !
Screws make me nervous because the filter is so close to the lip there,
but it would look better.
I still can't figure out whether that thick cable highlighted below
and originating from the fusebox next to it goes to the positive battery terminal ?
or to ground ? I've never had the car running, so not sure.
The cable is heavy gauge, about 12-18" long and is bolted at the back
section of that trapezoidal fusebox.
Can anybody check for me ? It would do a lot of damage if I get it wrong.
Other fuseboxes suggest it should go to +12v, but want to be 100% certain
before connecting it to the battery terminal.
Thanks in advance !
Last edited by Blk 93; 05-04-16 at 10:19 PM.
#7
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post