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FD Trans dimensions?

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Old 02-13-07 | 08:09 AM
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Rob
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FD Trans dimensions?

Looking for the exact dimensions of the FD trans for a little project that a few of us are working on.

it would be great if someone had the dimensions as shown below for the T56:


thanks,
Robert
Old 02-13-07 | 09:13 AM
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if nothing happens today...I'll measure after work (~7pm)
Old 02-13-07 | 02:33 PM
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Rob
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Originally Posted by dubulup
if nothing happens today...I'll measure after work (~7pm)
That'd be great ;o) Thanks Carson!
Old 02-13-07 | 05:11 PM
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How far back should D go? It looks as if it is cut off.
John
Old 02-13-07 | 05:20 PM
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Rob
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To the most rearward point of the tailhousing

Last edited by wanklin; 02-13-07 at 05:31 PM.
Old 02-13-07 | 07:34 PM
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A=836.6
B=157.2
C=782.6 (This I measured to the center of the forward bolts on the shifter)
D=881.1

let me know if you need something else...
Old 02-13-07 | 07:43 PM
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Rob
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I think that'll about do it. You are a good man.
Old 02-13-07 | 07:48 PM
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nothing but a walk in the shop ...since my tranny is out on the floor.

I hope someone else double checks these too.

maybe Jodeny will chime in.
Old 02-13-07 | 08:03 PM
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Rob
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did you use a t-square/tape combo or just eyeball it?
Old 02-13-07 | 08:30 PM
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A=836.600000000
B=157.200000000
C=782.600000000
D=881.100000000

I did mine on a CMM.


(j/k)

Dave
Old 02-13-07 | 08:41 PM
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Rob
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sounds good to me. thanks gents
Old 02-13-07 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by wanklin
did you use a t-square/tape combo or just eyeball it?
straight edge and tape measure...to the 1/16th of an inch and converted it, then rounded to the hundredth of a mm.

I will add my bell housing is off the gear box...so I added the "B" dimension where necessary.

I'm sure these aren't far off, but probably not accurate to the 0.Xmm...it's just always good to have more than one set of measurements.
Old 02-13-07 | 10:02 PM
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I just measured one (for real this time) using a tape measure:

A: 836
B: 160
C: 656 (to center of front ppf bolt)
D: 888

Dave
Old 02-14-07 | 05:35 AM
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Rob
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TY Carson and Dave. I think that'll do, but if anyone else feels like breaking out a tape, the more the merrier. ;o)
Old 02-14-07 | 08:55 AM
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FWIW...

i did some comparative measuring as it relates to my T56 conversion.

my primary concerns centered on the starter and my exhaust clearance. the starter issue gets fixed by using the automatic trans bellhousing and starter w bracket. that does require an automatic transmission engine endplate. i think that is merely to provide a location for the two front bolts on the starter bracket. i believe i can use my manual trans endplate and braze a couple of nuts onto the plate.

as to the other side....

at the point where the t56 bolts to the bellhousing it is 2.625 (approx) wider measured from the longitudinal centerline. ( so that would be about 5 inches more total width). i run two 3 inch downpipes and i will need to make about 1.5 inches of additional clearance on one pipe to make everything fit. that will work w a modest exhaust detour IF i have the room v the trans tunnel.

my guess is that others w one downpipe may have not much of a problem in this area.

my engine is out of the car and won't be back in for a month. until that time i won't know as to trans/tunnel clearance. i have other projects in front of the powertrain mods so i will be in a parts accumulation phase w a next winter install.

i will use the auto OEM parts, mod the rear of the bellhousing, have an input shaft made for the mazda clutch, mod my exhaust, and add a cobra rear end.

since i like to weld and fab, doing it myself will be half the fun.

howard
Old 02-14-07 | 09:58 AM
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im guessing i may have missed something, lately. . . but is there no more concern about the load that mounting the transmission solely to the chassis brings into play? what are people doing to battle this. im eager to know, as this is pretty much the only reason i stopped looking into such an option.
Old 02-15-07 | 02:22 PM
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The tranny mount works fine as long as the floor is reinforced properly since the majority of its weight is held up by the engine via the bellhousing. Guys making big power should use stiff engine mounts and weld extra steel to the floor to prevent twisting or acute pressure areas. Torsional loads are not too much of a concern as long as you the load is spread out properly.
Old 02-15-07 | 04:51 PM
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I have not experienced any kind of failure using the tunnel braces as Tranny mounts but I am sure the main reason for this failure among the V8 FD community is the Torque arm that connects the transmision to the Differential. I am currently drilling and riveting those tunnel mounts to the floor pan for extra safety. The key to making it work properly without worrying about those mounts is polyurethane engine/tranny mounts and a seperate mount for the diff, the only thing that should link the tranny to the diff is the driveshaft.
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