...and kuning, yes I DO no how to drive manual! I've been doing that all my life, so keep smartass comments to yourself!

 

you guys can be such ******** sometimes. I cant wait till your motor blows and someone rips into you for it.

are you ******* 17?

 

Depending on how badly the apex seals are you can have a strong running engine at high rpm's, but it would run like crap at idle. At idle the engine is not spinning fast enough for a good seal, you will get a lumpy idle. You can probably keep the engine idling by adjusting the idle speed up a bit until you get the rebuild. At high rpm the rotating forces is spinning the apex seals outwards so that you are getting a much better seal against the rotor housing. The high rpm will compensate for a bad apex seal spring or a cracked seal (all the pieces are in place and have not been ejected out of the motor yet) You can drive the car for a while but just take it easy, when the seal(s) goes it can also take out or at least chip your turbine blades in the turbo. I know because it happen to me about 7 or 8 years ago. I drove the car with a blown motor for about 3 or 4 months, I was just to lazy to put the mazda rebuild I had bought and, so I just ran with the tb adjusted to compensate and maintain idle. The car gave me about 6-8 miles to the gallon and shot flames everytime I left off the throttle or shifted when boosting. The car ran strong as hell at high rpm but ran crappy at idle. When I finally put the rebuilt in the car didn't run right. The car would idle at 3K rpm. I didn't want to break in the rebuilt at such a high idle. It took me a day to figure out when when wrong and it ended up being that I have forgotten that I've adjusted the tb to compensate for the bad apex a couple of months back.

 

fd3rew, thank you for that awesome explanation. That pretty much answered all of my questions as to the condition of my car. I am very grateful!

 

Also, before, I asked about "unsticking" apex seals without removing the engine because I had read somewhere that you could poor a special liquid into the engine and hand crank the motor to get rid of carbon buildup that might keep the apex seals from working properly. I asked Alex at Gotham Racing about this and he said that such a procedure exists, but the success rate was very minimal, and that I would most likely be better off with a new Mazda reman engine.

 

I'm not sure if there is any special liquid you can use but at worst case senerio you can try automatic tranny fluid. ATF contain detergent which can help clean/soften or possible break away some of the carbon or sludge buildup. Some mechanics would use it in crankcases in piston motors for sticking valves and lifters or to clean up things up under the valve cover before major work, but for the rotarys you will need it in the combustion chamber. You'll need fill the combustion chambers with ATF (add fluid, rotate motor by hand, add some more, and continue until there is a good amount of fluid in the motor) let the motor sit for over night. There are many different ways of getting the ATF in (remove upper plugs, remove upper intake manifold, or thru the tb, all of which will work, it all depends on what you think is easier for you to do) After the ATF soak, pull the EGI fuse or disconnect the fuel pump and crank the motor over to blow out all the ATF and depending on how much patients you have you may want to repeat it so you can be sure that ATF have reached behind all the apex seal groves in the rotor give the springs a good soaking too. If you still have emission devices on (pre cats and cats) you may want to unbolt them and block them off before you start so that you don't flood them with oil, but if it is straight thru exhaust, it will probably coat everything with oil and eventuallu blow out of the exhaust. Either way, it will be messy. Have a another set of plugs ready to swap out because they will get soaked with oil. The ATF method is similiar to the method used to unflood the early generation RX7 but instead of using the ATF to provide better compression for starting, the ATF will be used to remove buildup. Either way it will be a smoke show when you start it back up. I also have to agree that the success rate will probably very minimal but if you are trying to avoid having to replace a motor and have some time on your hands, it doesn't hurt. If your problem is with the apex seal springs, chances are the springs are already shot. The motor might have ran hot at some point and the apex springs already loss some of its tension, or if the apex are cracked, it will not seal perfectly and will probably only dig into the rotor housing over time.

 

You can de-carbonise your engine by adding a line to where the boost gauge normally sits and submerging the line in water while the engine is running. Youll need to open the throttle a bit to stop the car stalling here and keep the car in vac (no boost!) just let it idle at around 2krpm while sucking in the water and youll do good. Itll blow a crap load of smoke and it might help you out though. Connect the line to both nipples on the UIM there as you need to do both (one front rotor one rear)

I doubt itll work though...

 

Again, thank you very much for the information, guys!